Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph Shirts

Ing. Joseph Shirts Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph Shirts

Ignatious Joseph is not a subtle man.  Known sartorially for an elegant and distinctive style of dress, including his ubiquitous handmade red shoes and bowler, he also happens to make some of the finest dress shirts available.

Based on shirts from the 1930s, when the soft collar swept the menswear world, Ignatious Joseph’s eponymous brand is coveted by bankers and traders from London to New York, Milan to Brussels.  His shirt’s signature soft collar, luxurious fabrics, and vibrant color schemes are the brand’s collective calling card.

The philosophy behind his shirts is simple: they are luxury shirts for everyday wear; a modern sense of spirit derived from traditional craftsmanship. Ignatious Joseph shirts are what might be called semi-handmade and there is a reason for that.

Lexus Logo Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph ShirtsWhile he is obsessive about craftsmanship, quality, and construction, Mr. Joseph does not entirely forgo modern technology.  The decision of what to do by hand and what to do by machine must be taken with a view to the product as a whole, and based on the skill and experience of the master shirt maker.  It’s a blend of economics and craft.

Joseph©Godry 823 b2 227x300 Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph ShirtsMr. Joseph’s shirts are made by shirt makers who have refined and improved their specific craft over generations. “In order to produce shirts of the highest quality, and which are still affordable – meaning that there is a realistic margin for manufacturer and retailer – the critical tasks of cutting the shirts and sewing the non-fused collars are performed entirely by hand,” he says. Assembling the torso, a less challenging portion of the garment, is done by sewing machine.

Non-fused collars are the trademark of an Ignatious Joseph shirt.  They are complex creations which require highly skilled artisans.  Most high-end “handmade” shirts do not have hand sewn collars, due primarily to the expense and skill needed for such detailed work.

A pragmatist as well as a craftsman, Mr. Joseph demands that every Ignatious Joseph shirt be of the same high quality each and every time. This is only possible when each step of the shirt’s production is performed using the most appropriate method by experts in their craft.

As he likes to say, “The whole of the product is made not only by hand, but with brains.”

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by LEXUS via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of LEXUS.

 

The Best: Monocle Turns Five

Launched in 2007 as a new concept in print journalism, this March Monocle celebrates its fifth anniversary.  One of our favorite, or rather favourite, publications, Monocle has grown into a unique and substantive media presence.

With its flagship magazine, online home base, retail arm, Monocle 24 radio broadcast (and iPhone app), and Bloomberg television show, Monocle’s footprint has carefully and deliberately expanded in a targeted approach which neither cannibalizes itself nor devalues the overall brand. Monocle’s hip seasonal Alpino and Mediteranio newspapers support the magazine in a clever and resort-focused fashion and are themselves collectable – like the bookish magazines.

Monocle logo 300x219 The Best: Monocle Turns FiveMonocle’s ownership structure and the family-like nature of its core investors allow the company to develop innovative and intellectual products and services that under traditional corporate models would never see the light of day.

Not only has this approach worked, it has created – along with founder and editor-in-chief Tyler Brûlé – a profitable, popular brand that is beloved by its affluent, cultured and globe hopping readers.

We vote with our wallets; OTC’s library has every issue except one; the first.  Dear Monocle, would you perhaps have a spare Issue 1 lying about Midori House…?

 

Style & Substance: Frank Clegg Leatherworks

tan aiden 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksFrank Clegg doesn’t just make leather bags; he crafts heirlooms, one at a time, by hand.

While Frank and his small team of craftsmen design and build elegant leather goods under the Frank Clegg Leatherworks name, the workshop also produces exquisite products for some of the most revered of American luxury labels.

Frank is an artist of the old school; he learned craft over time and understands that when true luxury is involved, less is definitely more.

As with many true craftsmen, he has decades of experience and a repository of thousands of designs, both executed and waiting to be brought to life. Frank is a design and inspiration omnivore – the result of genuine curiosity and New England pragmatism. The more you know, the more you have to offer.

His bags and accessories grace the days of doctors, lawyers, artists, businessmen and globetrotting executives. The relationships he builds over time lead to new designs and the demanding exactitude of his customers keep sharp an attention to quality and detail.

Untitled 2 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksTake for example the simple pen sleeve. In so many bags, a place to put your pen is an afterthought; necessary but uninspired. In Frank’s bags the pen sleeve is part of the interior experience of the bag. It is honored.

The internal components of a Frank Clegg bag are kept to a minimum. Each pocket has a purpose and their scarcity forces the owner to selectively choose the items he carries. Such a bag inspires one to only put in it things of beauty, substance, and purpose. Hence the large, carefully formed pen sleeves. They almost beg for a vintage fountain pen, which Frank collects, or sleek, modern carbon composite roller ball.

Aware of his own depth of knowledge, Frank is also a generous mentor. Young, talented artisans and designers who see him as a font of practical knowledge and priceless experience regularly seek him out. They always leave richer in knowledge and ready to someday pass along the skills they too will develop over time.

Lexus Logo Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksLuxury leather work is a deceivingly complex craft. Even the modern conveniences of machines and computerized design must bow to the master of time, because it still takes time to create such durable beauty.

Frank may practice an age-old craft, but this creative innovator is very much on the pulse of today’s luxury goods market. An examination of his new Aiden Duffle Bag provides proof of this pioneering craftsman’s skill and ability to tweak tradition to meet the needs of a modern customer.

The Aiden is named for Frank’s father and updates his traditional carry-on bag with a modern, clean design. Its compact shape, reminiscent of a traditional doctor’s bag, belies some serious space, accessed through Swiss RiRi zipper that spans the bags’ entire length. The shape is distinctly streamlined and minimal, referencing a mid-century modern aesthetic, allowing the luxuriously soft tumbled leather and stunningly precise stitching to shine through.

Untitled 1 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksThe bag’s interior is a single open compartment devoid of any lining. Such finishing requires a master’s touch, as every aspect of the bag is open to detailed examination.

Interior seams are prefect and here the quality of the hand-selected leather is truly seen. The delicately arched handles and 1¼-inch shoulder strap bring sturdy functionality and visual balance to the bag.

The Aiden bag, and Frank Clegg himself, are examples of how modern innovation and hand crafted luxury can blend together to create something modern, classic, functional and timelessly stylish.

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by LEXUS via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of LEXUS.

 

Alan Flusser Strolling Down to DC

Alan Flusser 2011 Dennis C.1 Alan Flusser Strolling Down to DCAlan Flusser, the legendary clothier, celebrated menswear author, guru of classic style, and all around charming fellow, will be in Washington, DC, next week.

Alan and his crew will be in town Tuesday, February 21, through Thursday, February 23, to meet with new clients and check in with old friends.  If you have ever wanted to learn more about the exceptional custom tailoring offered through Alan’s renowned Custom Shop, this is a wonderful opportunity to do so.

Ensconced in the luxurious Hotel Sofitel adjacent to historic Lafayette Square and down the street from the White House, you can see mannequined examples of classic Flusser style.  You’ll also find samples of luxurious accessories, including crocodile belts, hand-rolled pocket squares, and bench made footwear.

Appointment times begin at 4:00 p.m. on Tuesday and conclude 9:00 a.m. on Thursday.  Hotel Sofitel is located at 806 15th Street, NW, Washington, DC 20005.

To make an appointment, please contact Peter, at The Custom Shop.  He can be reached at: peter (at) alanflusser (dot) net or 212-888-4500.