Wardrobe Guides | Off the Cuff

Taking Proper Suit for a Spin

On December 19, 2011, By OTC

As we continue to work with Proper Suit on the official OTC suit, our Editor-in-Chief Chris Hogan took the recently delivered set of duds for a spin around town.

This is a quick teaser for the full review which will be coming next month. What we endeavor to accomplish here is explain what to expect from Proper Suit once you take the plunge.

First off, OTC’s suit both met and exceeded our expectations. The initial review of key components, including fit, construction, fabric, overall quality and attention to detail impressed us on every count. (By the way, that wrinkly arm in the picture fits wonderfully – just needs some steam.)

It’s important to remember when choosing to go with a brand like Proper Suit, you are opting to order custom tailored clothing with certain constraints. Among online clothiers, Proper Suit is unique in that Richard and McGregor will personally take your measurements prior to your placing a first order. It’s extensive, thorough and designed to ensure that your fit is as accurate as possible. It is not, however, the same as having a custom suit made for you by a tailor who will update your measurements several times throughout the process. That is an altogether different, and more expensive option.

Making a custom suit is an art, not a science – don’t confuse the two. Understand the process and set realistic, firm expectations.

Those initial measurements will form the basis for your Proper Suit suit pattern. It’s a point in time translated to a tailor who will in turn translate them into a suit of clothing. So, when you open that box for the first time, this should be your expectation: it should fit very well, but will likely need some tweaking.

That’s exactly the case with the OTC suit; it fit almost perfectly but will need to be let out a touch on the sides. Other than that, it’s spot on and that’s pretty darn impressive. And this gets us to the issue of realistic expectations. It absolutely met ours. We were not expecting a perfect suit from a single fitting several weeks prior. We were expecting a suit that was almost perfect and received just that.

The cost for the tailoring adjustments will be reflected on our next order as a credit and we will indeed be placing a next order. Once those adjustments are made to the Proper Suit pattern, we should have something that does indeed fit perfectly, right out of the box.

Stay tuned for the full review which will go into the details, look and what goes into a Proper Suit and show you the finished product.

The Fine Art of Going Sockless

On August 15, 2010, By OTC

The sockless look is very much in fashion at the moment. It’s all over the place, from glossy magazine ads to TV to runways. J.Crew, very much the bastion of today’s classic American menswear, has its models sporting Alden bluchers, vintage jeans and no socks.

On the formal wear front, Thom Browne has made the suit and sockless look part of his brand’s entire message. What does all this really mean for everyday wear in real life? how does one actually pull off the whole no-socks thing?

For starters, there are particular pieces of footwear with which one should never wear socks in the first place. Deck shoes, those classic American Sperry Topsiders for example, should never come within a mile of a sock. Even if it’s 10-below, one should always go bare ankled.

On the casual side, simple leather or canvas sneakers, aka trainers, look best without socks as well. As with the deck shoes above, sneakers hail from a sporty, outdoors lifestyle and naturally fit with an equally sporty no-socks look.

These are the obvious choices of course; shoes that were never really meant to be worn in a formal or dressy context. They fall into that classic zone of being timeless rather than fashion – you almost don’t even have to think about it.

The fuzzy area begins to form when we move in the direction of town shoes. These are the shoes we wear in a more formal, often business context. We start with bucks – be they white, saddle or dirty. Bucks, back when my father was at Yale, where more of the casual sporty shoes of the day. Today, they are semi-formal dress shoes right at home in the office.

In warm weather I typically wear my bucks without socks. There are a few rules for this; I have to be dressing in a generally casual manner or at least not with a formal business purpose. I’ve seen guys in Boston wear bucks with khaki shorts and a worn out oxford – a great look worthy of Take Ivy.

Loafers and slip -ins are another category of near-dress shoes that adapt well to going sans-socks. Especially in warm weather, sporting some nice cordovan slip-ins from Brooks Brothers paired with heavy linen trousers, a banker striped shirt and blue blazer, you have an ensemble that is pitch perfect.

The same goes for classic penny loafers or driving shoes. In fact, I don’t ever think I’ve ever seen a pair of Todd’s Gomminis worn with socks. Alan Flusser recently showed me his new pair, in electric blue, and the first thing I thought was – how can you even wear socks with those? It just doesn’t work.

Lastly, we get to the business shoe debate. Although all the rage, apparently to show how clever and avante garde one is, wearing town shoes in a business environment without socks is exceedingly difficult. I know, I’ve tried. There are, however a few rules that will help you look a little less like a runway poser.

First, your suit or trousers and sport coat should be on the trim side and more fitted than a basic business ensemble. Part of the message going sockless in a work environment is supposed to convey is modernity. At least right now, that means fitted and ever so slightly cropped. Have your trousers just touch or slightly break over your shoe; it should look crisp and clean.

This aesthetic mirrors the outdoorsy un-traditional business message your look is trying to convey. Pleats and a deep break just won’t do. Additionally, you should pair your shoe to the overall outfit. Trim cap toe to slim cut formal suit or heavy wingtip to khaki pant and light sweater.

It’s like going tieless; you do not want to look like you simply forgot your tie. Same thing with the socks.

Getting It Together: Wardrobe Maintenance

On July 22, 2010, By OTC

Assembling a great wardrobe can take a lot of time, effort and of course, expense. When done well, it is not something you “do”; rather it becomes a process spread across the days of your life. Because investing in custom suits or dress shirts, those perfect chinos or Ravello shell cordovan wingtips from Alden is only half the battle.

The other half of that ongoing endeavor is properly looking after your investments. Keeping your clothing and accessories in great shape takes a little work but that effort will pay off in long-term use and the wonderful, classic patina that only time can provide.

Having Ralph Lauren’s closet (above) sure doesn’t hurt either. For additional inspiration, check out these other outstanding closets.

all that being said, though the natural aging of fabric and leather and wearing down of cuffs and elbows are normal, and often quite charming, these inevitabilities should be held off as long as possible. Doing so allows your possessions to keep their appeal while still developing the character that makes you want to keep them around for years to come.

Here are a few basics that will help your cherished clothes last longer while still looking great.

Hangers
First, invest in good wooden hangers – there is no way around it. Wood hangers support your garments, help preserve their shape and are aesthetically appealing. While any sturdy wooden hanger is better than wire or plastic, hands down, some of the finest I’ve ever used come from Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project. They are built to last and to protect the integrity of your clothing. While not inexpensive, as an investment in your fine garments, they will probably outlast you and ultimately return handsomely on their capital outlay.

Second, use them! When done with your clothes for the day, hang everything up. If dirty, throw it on the laundry or take it to the dry cleaner – just don’t pile things up on the floor. Using a solid and well sized wood hanger (suit hangers for suits, slimmer hangers for shirts and felted bar hangers from trousers) will add years to your clothing and help protect your garments from snags, wrinkles and stains.

Make a point of keeping your closet in order too, so no crowding. Garments need room to breathe and space to air out. In most cases, wrinkles will work themselves out in between wearings. An impromptu steaming can help too – just hang your day’s outfit next to the shower. A clean and orderly closet is also inspiring. If you open the door and see a curated collection of favorites, getting dressed is a fun and fulfilling process.

Dry Cleaning v. Brushing
In general, most suits and sport coats only need to be dry-cleaned once a year. Delicate fabrics and linens may need more attention, but on the whole brushing your garments with a clothing brush will remove most dust and dirt. Spot cleaning can address minor stains and help avoid unnecessary trips to the cleaners. If your suit is looking a little too lived in, go ahead and take it in for a pressing only. It will look refreshed without being unnecessarily exposed to damaging dry cleaning chemicals.

Laundering Shirts
Though some people insist on dry cleaning their dress shirts, I prefer to launder them at home. When it comes to home laundering, cold water is usually best but always look for the care tag first. Iron on a slightly cooler setting and lay off the starch.

If you are still compelled to use it, than starch only those areas that can get a little unruly, like cuffs, collars and plackets. If you regularly send your shirts off to the cleaners, pass on the starch there as well. Commercial presses do a fine job of working out wrinkles without the need for extra chemicals. When ironing at home, always remember to iron the backside of the shirt’s collar. For cuffs, iron the backside of barrel cuffs and the reverse, the inside side, of French cuffs also called double cuffs.

Footwear Care
Nowhere else does the concept of “investment clothing” hold forth than with footwear. A good pair of quality business shoes can easily cost several hundred dollars and only move northward. Custom shoes quickly reach into the thousands. Though it can be a big financial hit up front, good shoes will always being in style and when properly cared for, can last a lifetime. Though they may seem an extravagance (and for many of us they are), custom shoes in addition to looking great, will help keep your feet healthy. So as a general rule, keep your footwear in top notch shape.

In addition to protecting your dress shoes’ leather with regular polishing, make sure to always use shoe trees. There are many variations, but the best are full-sized and made from untreated cedar. The shoe tree will absorb moisture and help maintain your shoe’s shape. Fancy varnished trees are fine too – the kind with heavy brass knobs or pull rings – in fact I’m looking for some myself.

Be careful to not overuse your good shoes. Don’t wear the same pair day after day; they need to rest and dry out. After you get home, give your shoes a quick brush down, insert the trees and give them a few a day or two off. Should you get stuck in a rainstorm or have to tramp through snow, do not try and quickly dry out your shoes; that can permanently damage your fine footwear. Instead, stuff them with newspaper, set them in a room-temperature place and leave them alone. Change the paper if it gets damp but don’t rush the process. Also, make sure to brush off road salts or dirt immediately. Once the leather has air dried, insert your shoes trees and give them a good polish and waxing to recondition the leather.

Shoe trees at work

In fact, splurge every now and then for a really good shoe shine. In addition to being a fun, classic and masculine endeavor, a professional once-over is good for your shoes and extends their life. One of my favorite stands is in Washington, D.C.’s Union Station – right by Amtrak’s F Gate. Those guys are the best.

Union Station Shoe Shine

When you get down to it, taking care of your clothing should not been seen as a chore; quite the opposite in fact. To me, looking after my clothes is a pleasure and since I’ve put a lot of effort, time and thought into my wardrobe, taking care of it all is a happy ritual.

Ravello Shell Cordovan

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Vented Interests: Single, Double or None

On May 17, 2010, By OTC

In fashion, certain cultural indicators are reassuringly obvious. They can clearly say “French,” like a Hermes briefcase, or “American,” like a Louisville Slugger baseball bat. Often, they are immutable, solid and stable examples of permanence in a fast changing global marketplace.

However, as the saying goes, the only constant thing in life is change. The classic American single vented jacket has become quite popular overseas. In return, many American men have become quite the devotees of the double vent, also referred to as side vents. Only a short time ago it seems wearing one or the other put you in a clear camp; American or Anglophile. Not so much anymore.

While both these innovations can trace their roots back to hacking jackets worn during equestrian activities, each varies in form and somewhat in function. The single vent ably accomplishes its primary task of allowing the jacket’s skirt to drape more naturally across a horse’s hindquarters. However, when not on horseback, the single vent is not entirely ideal. When seated more conventionally in a chair, the spreading vent produces an unattractive gap which some find unattractive. The single vented jacket also bunches awkwardly to one side when you try and retrieve your keys or money clip.

Though it functionally accomplishes the same task, stylistically speaking double vent are to the single what banging rocks together are to a Cartier lighter. When seated on a horse or at the dining table, the double vents not only prevent your jacket from encasing you like a sausage, they continue to cover your posterior while comfortably draping the jacket’s skirt over your rear. Another benefit, discussed by noted clothier Alan Flusser, is that when you put your hands in your trouser pockets the double vent allows easy access while not disturbing the lines of your jacket.

The options: Single, Double, None

Double vents are more elegant and generally seen as formal in design. The single vent is less elaborate and therefore considered more casual. Also tied to the single vented jacket is its inherent American egalitarianism – formal, but not too formal – whereas the double vent speaks to an additional level of sophistication.

The sack suit helped define what is to this day seen as the “American” shape: natural shoulders with minimal padding, a less defined body shape and a single center vent. Traditional British tailoring produces the classic English cut: defined and padded shoulders, nipped waist, a double breasted front and, of course, double vents.

Over the past several years, designers and retailers have re-discovered the sport coat and it’s more focused cousin, the blazer. More often than not, retailers are offering sport coats of the double vented variety, seen by Americans as a more classy option. Blazers, for the most part, with their defined sartorial role, tend to retain their East Coast center vented construction.

This is in part due to the sustained resurgence in traditional American preppy style, both in the states and Europe. After all, what is more preppy than the single breasted, center vent blue blazer? This theme has carried over to all sorts of variations, from patchwork madras summer jackets to heavy tweed Ivy League versions for the fall.

Don’t worry; I have not forgotten the ventless jacket. This definitive example of form over function is, at its soul, an Italian fixation. Ever seeking the perfect unobstructed line, Italian tailors embrace the ventless jacket like no other. It is smooth, elegant, uncluttered. Of course when buttoned, it is exceedingly difficult to actually sit down or bend over to retrieve one’s pen, but, in matters of fashion that is irrelevant.

Regardless of what’s in vogue at any given point in time, choose what best fits your personal style, body shape and needs. The classic American center vent is functional and speaks of practical, classic style. Double vented jackets have an inherent air of elegance and Britishness. The ventless jacket is an homage to sleek and stylish Italian tailoring.

You may have your favorites, but when it comes to any of these, there are no wrong choices.

Taking Proper Suit for a Spin

The Fine Art of Going Sockless

Getting It Together: Wardrobe Maintenance

Ravello Shell Cordovan

Vented Interests: Single, Double or None

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