Master Craftsmen | Off the Cuff

Frank Clegg, Welcome to the White House

On May 14, 2013, By OTC

Brand building is a tricky business. Try too hard and people don’t trust you, try too little and they won’t even know you exist. Brands with history, and a history of doing something well, have a big advantage. “Authentic” brands possess the quality of longevity and substance – particularly in today’s market.

In an attempt to take advantage of this trend, some companies tout embellished histories or toss around the word “heritage” with casual abandon. They want you to buy into their version of history or their new brand’s freshly imagined “vintage” past. Then there are the guys who actually make stuff, make it well and often forget to toot their own horn. They are craftsmen first and marketers second; a rare bird, frankly. They don’t “market” heritage, their products are their heritage.

So, when the president of the United States went looking for just the right Made-in-America briefcase, he headed directly to Fall River, Massachusetts, and the workshop of Frank Clegg, owner of Frank Clegg Leatherworks.

The briefcase you see at President Obama’s feet in the official White house photo above, propped gently against the legendary Resolute Desk, is Frank’s Double Gusset Zip Top Briefcase, in black harness belting leather.

Exactly how did that outstanding briefcase find its way into the president’s hands? Apart from being one of the finest leather craftsman in the United States and having a roster of devoted customers that literally spans decades…well, Frank won’t say. He confirmed that said briefcase is indeed from Frank Clegg, but beyond that he said simply that he is humbled and honored that it accompanies the president.

OTC is an unabashedly proud and longtime supporter of Frank and his exceptional products. As we said in what is perhaps our favorite post, “Frank Clegg doesn’t just make leather bags; he crafts heirlooms, one at a time, by hand.” For Frank and his craftsmanship to be honored in such a remarkable way is not only fitting, it is validation of function over mere form, substance over flash, and actual heritage over marketing.

Mr. Clegg, welcome to the White House.

Luxury Clothier Jon Green Talks ‘Bespoke’

On April 19, 2013, By OTC

Jon Green is a celebrated New York-based bespoke clothier well-known to readers of Forbes, The Financial Times, and American Express’ ‘Departures’ magazine. His loyal and exclusive customers who typically operate in a rarefied air of luxury and quality, can demand, and receive, the best.

Jon, a true gentleman and passionate craftsman, is a good friend of OTC. He possesses the unique ability to make both a globe-hopping corporate executive and clothing neophyte feel equally respected and appreciated. At his core, Jon is an educator and historian of all that is ‘bespoke.’

In this guest column, he provides a thoughtful and educational retort to last year’s New York Times article on bespoke tailoring.

The article, “What’s a $4000 Suit Worth?” appeared in the Sunday New York Times Magazine of September 4, 2012. Written by Adam Davidson, an American journalist focusing on business and economic issues for National Public Radio, he also writes the “It’s the Economy” column in the New York Times Magazine.

As a bespoke clothier on Madison Avenue for over 20 years, I read Davidson’s article with great interest.

For the article Mr. Davidson interviewed Peter Frew, a 33-year-old Jamaican born bespoke tailor who apprenticed in Savile Row, London. Mr. Frew, who now works out of his apartment in Queens, makes bespoke suits for clients entirely by hand and by himself. This endeavor takes him 75 hours for each suit, or about 2 suits per month.

Initially, Davidson’s contact with bespoke craftsmanship prompted his acknowledgement of what a skillful tailor can achieve with shears, needle and thread, and his hands. But his excitement quickly faded after learning that in spite of charging $4000 for his suits, Frew made only about $50,000 a year.

“As I watched Frew work, it became glaringly obvious why he is not rich,” Davidson observed. “Like a 17th-century craftsman, he has no economy of scale,” a very powerful point for the author in this discussion. Davidson goes on to say that, “the odd riddle” of bespoke tailoring in our economy is why more people are not willing to pay for it.

One reader responding on-line put it this way, “Bespoke clothing is one of those things you either ‘get’ or you don’t!” That certainly has been my experience.

It is unreasonable to expect that those who find ‘acceptable’ preferable to ‘optimal’ would appreciate the psychic income of a bespoke suit. The lack of appreciation for quality in our culture is profound.

In either case, Davidson missed a great opportunity to enlighten his readers, and perhaps himself, about the value of “Bespoke” clothing.

The craftsmanship required to make a bespoke suit has been passed down for centuries through years of training and apprenticeships with master tailors; artisanal craftsmanship develops over a lifetime.

Conversely, ‘an economy of scale’ requires mass production; bespoke clothing cannot be mass-produced.

In today’s marketplace, luxury goods exist primarily as brands of the giant luxury goods conglomerates PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute) whose brands include Gucci, Botega Veneta, Stella McCartney, et al, and LVMH (Louis Vuitton • Moët Hennessy) whose brands are Fendi, Pucci, Givenchy, Berluti, Bulgari, et al. These conglomerates buy artisanal businesses with good reputations and restructure them as profit centers by employing “economies of scale.”

Suzy Menkes, a British journalist and head fashion reporter and editor for the International Herald Tribune since 1988, reflects in her December 6, 2012, New York Times article, on the everlasting style and taste of Valentino Garavani’s retrospective in London’s Somerset House. In it she opines, “Is that alta moda era gone forever with the corporate luxury culture and the tsunami of fast fashion?”

It would be a sad irony indeed to have the money to buy whatever you desired only to have the choice of branded “merchandise” available in malls and airport shops all over the world.

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure clothing – Since the early twentieth century there has existed a grey area of garments between the poles of bespoke and ready-to-wear; for which the customer was measured and garments made to the closest standard size in a factory. The distinction made here is between bespoke, a paper pattern created specifically for a client, and made-to-measure, which alters an existing pattern to accommodate some changes for the customer.

Technological change makes this distinction more subtle since fittings are increasingly required for both bespoke and made-to-measure. However, a bespoke service requires an individually created and cut paper pattern kept on file for future orders. Today made-to-measure measurements are often stored too, on a computer.

Hand-work, often cited as an exclusive benchmark of bespoke, is now increasingly found in limited amounts in made-to-measure garments. Machine-making plays a small part in the creation of most bespoke suits in the sewing of some straight seams for strength and smoothness. Comparison between the construction techniques of bespoke and those of made-to-measure must be experienced to be understood.

Like many others, Davidson lacks the above distinctions, which may explain why Martin Greenfield is identified in the ‘Slide Show’ accompanying Davidson’s article on-line as a “Bespoke Tailor.” Martin Greenfield is a manufacturer whose factory makes ready-made and made-to-measure suits for retailers, tailors, and customers, by the tens of thousands each year.

All of us differ on what we think is ‘worth it.’ Many men, rich or not, would not consider paying even $1000 for a suit. Not because they can’t, but because they don’t see the point.

But for the receptive, a bespoke suit is the perfect expression of artistry and function – an irreplaceable essential whose quality provides the satisfaction that an economy of scale can only promise.

People buy solutions; and to my mind, nothing meets the daily requirement of being well dressed as superbly as a bespoke suit.

Jon Green Bespoke
509 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10022

Additional images of Jon Green’s bespoke craftsmanship:

OTC Recommends: New West Knifeworks

On November 21, 2012, By OTC

As we careen towards the holiday dining and shopping season, it is important to pause, take a deep breath, and remember that even during times of consumer excess a focus on quality and craftsmanship is still important.

While we are, of course, a resource for style and personal expression, OTC firmly believes that such a philosophy extends to the home. And, what better place to start than in the kitchen?

American-based brands that blend true craftsmanship with creative design and a dedication to outstanding quality have always been something that gets our attention. Without question, Jackson, Wyoming-based New West Knifeworks is one such company. Obsessed with making the best possible cutting tools for the kitchen, be it in a Michelin Star restaurant or servicing a backyard barbeque, New West knows from knives. Feted by the likes of Wine Spectator, Cigar Aficionado, and Fine Cooking, New West is considered by many discriminating experts to be one if the finest makers of hand-made knives on the market.

We recently had the chance to test out their new Fusionwood five-inch Chopper Chef’s knife, and in a word – wow. It’s not a large knife, but its functionality and versatility are quite impressive. As you might expect, the blade is razor sharp, but equally impressive is the knife’s exceptional balance in-hand. It’s easy to work with and makes for a durable, compact, and – frankly – striking kitchen heirloom.

Construction-wise, it’s beautiful to look at and the knife-maker’s dedication to his craft is clearly evident. The elegantly finished wood handle is smooth and flawless. It seamlessly blends with the blade’s tang to create an uninterrupted object of functional beauty. Layers of select dyed hardwood veneers are impregnated with a proprietary engineering grade resin. Since the resin is pulled into the wood using a vacuum process, there is no surface treatment to deteriorate. The handle is just fine sanded and buffed.

The blade’s steel is made with a unique powder metal technology that creates a carbide-rich, super fine grain structure that has exceptional performance characteristics compared to traditionally wrought steels. The powder metal technology of Fusionwood 2.0 knives provide unparalleled edge holding combined with indestructible toughness and excellent stain resistance. It also allows for ease of sharpening and the ability to create an incredibly sharp edge.

To protect stray hands for that blade, each knife also arrives in a custom blade sheath. Constructed of heavy leather, it keeps that super sharp edge away from any hands reaching into the kitchen tools drawer.

Last but definitely last least, New West is giving you a way to get your own four-piece knife set for free! Just head over to their Facebook page and enter the Holiday Chef Knife Giveaway no later than December 10, 2012.

How to Tie a Sette Necktie

On October 31, 2012, By OTC

The dashing gentleman in this wonderful little video from Sette Neckwear, is the owner of the Como, Italy, mill that produces the silk for Sette’s outstanding handmade ties.

Watch and learn. And, if you are able, invest in a Sette or two. They are some of the finest ties you can buy – and worth every penny.

35 Years Perfect: The Frank Clegg English Briefcase

On October 25, 2012, By OTC

What makes something a classic? For starters, it helps to have timeless design and durable quality. Also important is the intangible ability to remain stylish, relevant, and useful year after year.

With the recent resurgence interest in handcrafted menswear and heritage brands, the role of the simple bag has been elevated to something akin to choosing a life mate. For men, finding the right bag is a journey through emotion, practicality, personal expression and, more often, provenance. Who made it and how? What kind of leather was used and what tanning process employed? Was it made on an assembly line or by a single craftsman?

When it comes to finding a good bag, here at OTC we are openly biased toward one of the most skilled leather workers in America today – Frank Clegg. You can read more about Frank and his remarkable skill and craftsmanship here.

In additional to being a wonderful guy, a gifted designer and artist, and willing teacher, Frank also helped define what we see today as the most classic of all soft briefcase styles – the English briefcase.

20 years ago, Frank was asked by Cole Haan, then the standard bearer of high-quality men’s leather goods, to come up with a new briefcase to sell under the Cole Haan label. Frank was already producing a Cole Haan collection at the time, including another classic brief, his Leather Lock bag. The new bag, a design he had been manufacturing himself for 15 years, was based on the traditional, academically influenced English dispatch case. Simple, classic, functional, and manly.

The simple part caused some consternation once the design was unveiled. Several of the Cole Haan folks thought that the bag’s body straps were too difficult to use and might be a turn off to potential buyers. The bag was too old-fashioned, it wasn’t sleek enough, or fresh enough, they said.

Frank stuck by his guns, saying he knew that it would be a hit. His own experience had shown him that the quality and design would win out, and he was right. The bag became an instant must-have and one of Cole Haan’s most popular ever. And 35 years later, it’s just as great now as it was then.

For both men and women, the English briefcase represents a back-to-basics approach that combines timeless styling, old world charm, and function.

As bags go, it is simple, straight forward, and purposeful. Double gusseted with signature rounded and polished edges, a large interior zippered compartment, pen slots, card sleeve, and two multifunctional pockets.

In addition to the full-wrap body straps that secure its contents and full-length rear newspaper pocket, this bag also sports another Frank Clegg innovation, the signature all-leather wrapped handle. Deceptively simple looking, making this durable, stylish, and incredibly comfortable handle is a feat in and of itself.

In addition to the traditional offerings, this year Frank has produced a special anniversary edition of this outstanding bag, in hand-stained wild American Alligator.

This 35th anniversary edition of the English briefcase is simply unparalleled. The wild alligator hides are purchased directly from the hunters, custom tanned and hand-stained and finished in Frank’s Fall River, MA, workshop. As this item is made to order, you should allow about two months for delivery. And, at US$7,500, it’s not really an impulse buy. On the other hand, your kids will fight like heck to see who inherits it.