Made In America | Off the Cuff

Frank Clegg, Welcome to the White House

On May 14, 2013, By OTC

Brand building is a tricky business. Try too hard and people don’t trust you, try too little and they won’t even know you exist. Brands with history, and a history of doing something well, have a big advantage. “Authentic” brands possess the quality of longevity and substance – particularly in today’s market.

In an attempt to take advantage of this trend, some companies tout embellished histories or toss around the word “heritage” with casual abandon. They want you to buy into their version of history or their new brand’s freshly imagined “vintage” past. Then there are the guys who actually make stuff, make it well and often forget to toot their own horn. They are craftsmen first and marketers second; a rare bird, frankly. They don’t “market” heritage, their products are their heritage.

So, when the president of the United States went looking for just the right Made-in-America briefcase, he headed directly to Fall River, Massachusetts, and the workshop of Frank Clegg, owner of Frank Clegg Leatherworks.

The briefcase you see at President Obama’s feet in the official White house photo above, propped gently against the legendary Resolute Desk, is Frank’s Double Gusset Zip Top Briefcase, in black harness belting leather.

Exactly how did that outstanding briefcase find its way into the president’s hands? Apart from being one of the finest leather craftsman in the United States and having a roster of devoted customers that literally spans decades…well, Frank won’t say. He confirmed that said briefcase is indeed from Frank Clegg, but beyond that he said simply that he is humbled and honored that it accompanies the president.

OTC is an unabashedly proud and longtime supporter of Frank and his exceptional products. As we said in what is perhaps our favorite post, “Frank Clegg doesn’t just make leather bags; he crafts heirlooms, one at a time, by hand.” For Frank and his craftsmanship to be honored in such a remarkable way is not only fitting, it is validation of function over mere form, substance over flash, and actual heritage over marketing.

Mr. Clegg, welcome to the White House.

Old Bull Lee Shorts

On May 9, 2013, By OTC

To be honest, the buttons were the first thing we noticed.

All of the shorts made by Old Bull Lee – and they only make shorts – have button fly openings. And, the buttons that founder Lee Johnson chose to use are very specific; thick, sturdy, branded, and slightly over-sized. You notice them because they are not simply functional, they are part of the overall design.

That these buttons have a quality that is hard to define, but which unquestionably add to the shorts’ overall character, is not by chance. Johnson, a former architect, knows from design and his shorts reflect that attention to detail, construction, and quality.

Depending on what model you chose, Old Bull Lee shorts are either bohemian cool or long-lived classic.

The prints, rendered in lightweight (190 grams-per-square-meter) Italian cotton, have a wonderfully relaxed yet sophisticated look to them. They would be perfect for strolling the weekend antiques market in L’Isle sur la Sorgue, paired with an favorite old white linen shirt – sleeves rolled up in the warming sun.

The solids are cut to the same design, but in a beefier 290 grams-per-square-meter cotton and finished in a Japanese peach finish twill. At first, they have a deeply uniform coloration, saturated, almost. But, with some time, use, and a few washes, a nuanced faded appearance sets in and they take on a look of comfortable familiarity. All of their fabrics are sourced from France and Italy and the garments are made in the United States.

As an added bonus, each pair of shorts arrives carefully presented inside a beautiful, sturdy navy presentation box that makes Ralph Lauren’s look like something from the dollar store. Really, we love the boxes.

Old Bull Lee’s story is one of passion and determination. Johnson sold his house to finance the dream, traveled to Europe to make connections, endured rebuffs and rejections, and eventually wound up producing something that embodies his dedication to craft. Yes, they are “just” shorts. But, they are the shorts we want to wear, made by the kind of guy we love introducing to OTC readers, and constructed in a way that honors Lee Johnson’s goal of doing it right.

UnderFit: Evolution of the Undershirt

On March 14, 2013, By OTC

Undershirts are the unsung heroes of many a man’s wardrobe. They are by nature pedestrian and functional, serving a purpose rather than expressing personality. Indeed, the best undershirts are the ones you forget you have on; not evident when being worn and possessing as little presence as possible.

Finding, let alone creating a perfect undershirt is a holy grail-like endeavor geared to those intent on minimizing their impact on menswear by maximizing their attention to material, design, fit, and construction. They want you to forget you’re wearing their product until the moment you realize it’s on and you hadn’t even noticed it. That is the brand-winning moment.

Enter UnderFit. Founders David Palmer and Ben Brockland started the company in 2010 after dealing with the frustration of not being able to find a good fitting undershirt. The entrepreneurs worked long and hard to develop thier signature product. True to the bootstraps model, Brockland worked two full-time jobs trying to get UnderFit going. Manufacturing is American based; the fabric is sourced from mills in Southern California, manufacturing takes place in Milwaukee, and orders are fulfilled outside Philadelphia.

While the back story is inspiring, the good news is that their undershirts are pretty great too. The material, an eco-friendly blended fabric called ProModal, combines the best qualities of two different fibers, Modal and Tencel. It also contains a small amount of Lycra that helps to create a better fit. This combination creates a lightweight, shape-retaining, and breathable material.

We found wearing UnderFits to be a very comfortable exercise. The shirts, broader at the shoulders and narrower at the waist, are nicely fitted but not at all tight or constricting. Importantly, they create almost no bulk at all under our trim dress shirts and are very comfortable all day long. The shirt’s body is long enough to ensure it stays tucked in place.

These are some of the most consistently comfortable undershirts we have ever tested. An important fact to remember is that these are designed to be undershirts first and foremost. And, they were designed to be the best undershirt you can find anywhere. As Brockland and Palmer say, “Undershirts are simple, UnderFits are simply perfect. “ It’s even their tagline.

OTC wholly endorses UnderFit. If there is a better purpose-built undershirt out there, we have yet to find it.

OTC Find: Triple Aught Design’s Flux Hoodie

On January 30, 2013, By OTC

It’s winter, it’s cold, and it’s time to head out for a run. What to wear?

OTC recently teamed up with San Fransisco-based Triple Aught Design (TAD) to test out its refreshingly modern take on the hooded sweatshirt. Now, some may say, “Sweatshirts? I thought OTC was all about ‘classic, modern, and style.’” And that’s exactly what we are all about. But those enduring attributes can also be found in many things, from shoes to furniture, cars to watches. So, when we learned about TAD and it’s unique tactical-take on active wear clothing and accessories, we knew it was a great fit with OTC’s mission.

While we are obvious fans of the finer things in life, when not at the office, on the town, or at the club, most of us are not, in fact, hanging out in the library sporting bespoke cords and grandfather’s Harris Tweed jacket. Indeed, just like everyone else, we want comfortable but well-built casual clothes that perform whether we are relaxing around the house or running errands.

To that end, we see the Flux as a great grown-up, pared-down layer for taking a hike, a run, or the kids to school. It has clean lines and a minimalist look characteristic of TAD’s design aesthetic, but which is also distinctive from other sportswear brands. This pullover has a decidedly masculine, tactical look to it but is neutral enough to pair well with jeans or khakis.

It’s design also has a number of functionally useful details that lend credibility to to the garment’s practical role. Made in America, the stitching and overall build are solid. Its sightly elongated sleeves comfortably accommodate use of the thumb holes in cooler weather (as shown above), and the hood is designed to lay flat against the wearer’s back when not being worn; a helpful feature when being layered under a shell. The body side of pass-through hand warmer pocket is actually lined with a moisture wicking mesh that also reduces bulk. The Flux’s exterior is an abrasion-resistant layer that is backed by a comfortable Merino wool lining.

Pictured above is the Flux during some OTC product testing – in this case, a winter’s day run. The Merino wool watch cap is also from TAD.

The Chester Mox Wallet

On January 10, 2013, By OTC

It takes a lot to make us empty out our well-worn and much loved R.Horns Wein eight-card wallet. Now almost 15 years old, it shows only the most desired signs of age. It is still fully functional but now softer and beat up about the edges; just hitting its stride, really.

The item that has for now supplanted that wallet is a small, elegant, and equally well-crafted one provided by Los Angeles-based Chester Mox. While the design is strikingly different and the construction slightly less artistic (R.Horns is known for its labor-intensive double folded stitch which hides all evidence of unfinished edges), the Chester Mox Antiqued Italian Calf Compact Bi-Fold Wallet in Saffron, is a study in functional beauty.

Compact and efficiently designed, it’s a winner and an excellent choice should you be seeking a low-profile wallet for your identification and a small selection of credit and transit cards. While the product’s description indicates that it can hold some folded cash in an inside pocket, which is quite true, this is really a card wallet; a tool for our emerging less-cash economy.

We have been testing ours for about a month, and frankly, it almost feels as though it’s the only wallet we have ever owned. The firm but pliable hand-stained calfskin has broken in nicely and its coffee-colored nylon stitching is crisp and sturdy. We opted for a laser engraved “OTC” on the outside, which provides a nicely modern counterpoint to the wallet’s classic styling. Where traditional stamping would yield more of an old-world feel, the laser engraved leather provides a completely different impression; cleaner, younger, and contemporary.

Chester Mox is family-owned, and with 12 years of experience in the leather business, they certainly seem to know what they’re doing. The husband and wife team behind the brand are picky about their leathers and only source from leading tanneries, including the storied Horween, also a supplier to bespoke cobbler John Lobb. All of their products, and they do have a growing selection of leather goods for ladies and gentlemen, are designed and hand-constructed in their Los Angeles workrooms.

The images below are from the company’s website. A note of thanks to Derek, from Put This On, for bringing Chester Mox to our attention.