Inside J. Crew with WSJ

j crew fall 2009 lookbook catalog main 300x216 Inside J. Crew with WSJJ. Crew has in many ways redefined the American look.  The distinctive mix of dressy and casual, carefully curated pairings and thrown-together favorites, have created a new definition for the burgeoning “heritage” look.

Even through the New York Times writes today about the important role heritage themes are playing in the current retail climate, it was J.Crew that literally invented the the whole genre.  When I attended a recent J.Crew meet-up in D.C., much of the talk was whether or not L.L. Bean had captured a real sense of heritage in their new Signature brand – you know, like J.Crew had.  Bear in mind that L.L Bean, already 100 years old and progenitor of the authentic refined-rustic-American market segment, based much of Signature’s product mix on its own deep archives.  Bean even hired back Alex Carlton, founder of Rogues Gallery – one of the most hertiagey brands out there – to be its lead designer.

But when it comes to what many around the world view as the new American classic look, J.Crew sits at the top of the list.  Ralph Lauren may define how we want to live and Brooks Brothers certainly shows us how the East Coast ideal did (and still does) live, but J. Crew has tapped the soul of what American classic Ivy League means for today.

j crew ss2010 presentation 2211 195x300 Inside J. Crew with WSJNo other brand has captured this kind of lightening with such, dare I say, real love.  And under the guidance of CEO Mickey Drexler and head menswear designer Frank Muytjens, they are by no means resting on their hand distressed laurels.

The Wall Street Journal’s WSJ. magazine caught up with Mickey Drexler for their recent cover story. Drexler has lead J.Crew’s big turn around in the last few years (after being famously fired from the Gap) and is called by Andy Spade, “the Steve Jobs of retail.”

It’s funny then, that we learn that it was Mr. Jobs himself who informed Drexler that he was about to be fired from Gap. But what’s it like to work for him? WSJ spent a day at J.Crew HQ.

WSJ Magazine Visits J. Crew’s Headquarters

 

A Classic: The Canvas Tote

LLB+Tote A Classic: The Canvas ToteI have a lifelong appreciation for designs that respect a product’s utilitarian roots.

Classic and traditional styles have always done that. In fact, the hallmark of the true preppy aesthetic is the re-purposing of utilitarian items for everyday life: foul weather gear becomes a fashion statement, prep school ties and jackets appear in the office, and the steamer trunk great uncle Dan used at Yale is now a snazzy coffee table at the beach house.

A great example of this approach to life – utilitarian yet stylish – is the canvas tote bag. The most famous version of this functional workhorse is made by L.L. Bean. In fact, L.L. Bean literally invented the canvas tote bag category. The bag was originally developed to carry blocks of ice (back in the day when block ice was used to keep foods fresh in the ice box).

Aged+Tote A Classic: The Canvas Tote
A nicely aged tote

From these humble beginnings, the bag quickly became recognized for its simple yet elegant functionality. L.L. Bean started to offer the canvas tote in a smaller version and called it the “boat & tote.” It was perfect for lugging around sailing and boating items and the more abuse it suffered the better it looked. So began the WASPy affinity for this multipurpose wonder.

As the Official Preppy Handbook cheekily pointed out, every New England family has several of these lying around the house. In some ways, these canvas totes are a sort of status symbol. That you know what these bags represent – where to get them, the history, even the perceived lifestyle they imply – makes them recognized and desirable.

Heritage Research, a workwear inspired British brand, even convinced L.L. Bean to produce a limited run of the original 30oz cotton duck ice tote bag.

heritage research ll bean ice tote 02 A Classic: The Canvas Tote
Courtesy of Selectism.com

The L.L. Bean canvas tote bag has been liberally copied by many competitors. The basic design has even been reinterpreted by suppliers to Wall Street brokerage houses and white shoe law firms. Their logoed bags, given as employee gifts or awards, have become New York chic collector items. Go figure.

It is not uncommon to see these bags on the subway commuting to work with their owners. They are neutrally appealing and bring a bit of the outdoors to the office without being at all kitschy. The midsized L.L. Bean version is perfectly proportioned to hold everyday stuff along with lunch or a morning bagel.

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