For the Bookshelf: The Gentry Man

Gentry Man Cover For the Bookshelf: The Gentry Man

One of the exciting side effects brought about by the sustained and evolving resurgence in menswear, elegantly executed lifestyles, and well-crafted luxury goods, is the recent release of some great new books geared toward men.

For the past several years, there has been a coffee table drought of sorts; a lack of interesting books devoted to mens style.  Alan Flusser’s contributions are de facto bibles when it comes to elegant dressage and, as he so eloquently coined it, “permanent style.”  However, few titles have been able to give him a worthwhile nudge on the bookshelf.

Things changed in 2009, when “Take Ivy” was published.  Previously beloved as a cult classic in the fashion world, the Japanese language book was republished in English.  The publisher was stunned with the intense demand once word got out.  Apparently, men were starving for quality style guides and substantive books filled with interesting, useful, historical, and practical information about how to dress, how to live, what to drink, and how to behave.

Authors obliged.  Some of the weak offerings were no more than a collection of generalizations and pictures of people on boats and sitting on tartan chairs.  Others, like the impressive “Preppy,” sought to delve deep into the fashion and philosophy of the preppy lifestyle.  “The Ivy League,” a stunning new book, which will be reviewed soon on OTC, captures both the style and culture of the Ivy League world.  It prompted a deep reflection on this editor-in-chief’s own upbringing and resulted in a major article currently undergoing final edits.  Finally, the quality of menswear books is beginning to meet demand.

the gentry man c. CoolHunting.com  For the Bookshelf: The Gentry ManPerhaps the most interesting book to land on our doorstep is “The Gentry Man: A Guide for the Civilized Male.”

Gentry was a landmark magazine for men from the 1950s, which covered all aspects of gentlemanly pursuits.  It lead with a distinct worldly, intellectual approach; a cross between today’s Esquire and Monocle magazines.

From cocktails to suiting, automobiles to academic treatises.  Art, culture, and travel mingles with fashion and interior design. It was a magazine for the thinking man’s dandy. Playboy, but without the nudity.

Editor Hal Rubenstein collected some of the best articles from the magazine’s 22 issues – far too brief a run. Of course the technology is out of date and the fashions a touch stodgy, but that is beside the point.  The hefty book, 256 pages, is divided into distinct sections that take advantage of the subject matter’s depth and breadth: Style; Homes, Cars, and Travel; Food and Drink; Sports and Culture; and Art and Architecture.  Thomas Crowne likely read Gentry.

Much of the advice perfectly relevant for today, especially the underlying message of gentlemanlyness and intellectual curiosity. These are the hallmarks of a true man and this wonderful book is a guide-cum-historical reference for those seeking to put some substance behind their style.

The Gentry Man goes on sale May 8, 2012.

 

Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style

Preppy Cover 226x300 Preppy: Cultivating Ivy StyleWhen first reading my copy of Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style, I was reminded of how omnipresent the whole preppy thing has become.

OTC hit the internet back in 2005.  Back then, there were very few men’s fashion blogs out there.  And there were even fewer sites dedicated to the preppy/Ivy League/East Coast style so familiar to me.

Over the intervening years, the appeal of preppy style and East Coast lifestyle – at least as seen through the eyes of Lisa Birnbach – gained wider appeal and the proliferation of online experts and opinion-makers ensued.  Back in the 1980s, when The Preppy Handbook first gave birth to a new, aspirational preppy phenomenon, the style was bombastic and over the top, colorful and caricatured.   Today, it’s serious business.  And I mean that both figuratively and literally.

Companies from J. Crew to Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers to J. Press are all rediscovering their uber-preppiness.  New smaller brands that fancy themselves cultural artisans and holders of the “true” preppy standard are popping up by the day.  Of all these modern labels only Brooks Brothers, J. Press and L.L. Bean can really lay claim to a physical connection to the genuine preppy aesthetic.  At the same time, many fashion bloggers and armchair fashion historians extol the virtues of being “authentic” focusing on “heritage” brands.

I’ve seen some of this exuberant tut-tutting in the reviews of Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style and find it a little perplexing.  Some are critical of the book’s lack of historical gravitas and its apparent concession to modern (and apparently blasphemous) interpretations of preppy style.  Too much Ralph Lauren – that’s not authentic prep!  Does that make Polo/Ralph Lauren, founded twilight years of original Preppy, any less preppy?  Is it less authentic?  Of course not, Polo is the bedrock of modern preppy style.

All of this came quickly to mind as I unpacked the book, sent to me through the kindness of its authors, and started to leaf through the pages.  I, and several other bloggers mentioned or quoted in the book have been aware of its development since last year.  When I was contacted for permission to use a quote from my Roots of American Preppy article – for the introduction no less – I was intrigued.  I liked the idea  behind the book and the authors’ approach to creating a modern understanding of the style.

Turns out I also like the book.  Preppy Cover2 225x300 Preppy: Cultivating Ivy StyleIn fact, I think it’s a great resource for anyone looking to better understand and adopt preppy style.  Preppy’s authors, very aware of bloggers’ influence and impact on modern preppy style, also reached out to some of the leading online influencers and mined our archives and writings.  That perspective adds to the larger picture of preppy style today.

I don’t know if some people were expecting the Ivy League equivalent of Alan Flusser’s Dressing The Man -  a book so detailed, complete and authoritative as to garner only criticisms about its obsessive detail.  This book is more of an elegant and somewhat contextual style guide that shows you how to dress and accessorize in the preppy fashion.  It’s not an exhaustive tome dedicated to the intricate nuances of preppy culture and history, pedigree and monogramming rules.  Rather, it is a visual reference for achieving the preppy aesthetic.

Preppy runs the gamut of Ivy League influences and trends, styles, luminaries and brands.  It also goes somewhere most books on this subject do not – to modern times.  Photos from Fred Castleberry are mixed with references to the gritty cool urbanity of Street Etiquette.com.  Modern influences have taken the preppy look in new directions, J.Crew being the standard bearer of the “New Prep.”  In fact, even though J.Crew strives to break its generic “preppy” label, no other brand has so forcefully defined what kids today understand to be preppy.

What makes the preppy style of today so resilient and ubiquitous is that it’s not static – it’s not the old 1980s caricature.  Through style blogs and social media, consumers have decided what they like and how they want to blend looks and even eras.  Creating personal signature looks by blending new and old brands, mass market and small run specialty pieces, old school preppy and new school ironic keeps things fresh.

And that’s the way is should be.  “Real” American preppy has always been about practically, function and quality.  Together, those elements yielded the timeless and classic looks we so covet today.  From bags to dogs, footwear to navy blazers, preppies created a distinctive style by finding what worked, sticking with it and evolving to include new elements that matched their style.  Same thing with this book.

Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style takes vintage and modern preppy, blends them up and gives us the recipe for achieving a look, a style and, sort of, a life style.  It’s a lovely book and a great addition to a collection or coffee table.