OTC x Frank Clegg: Bespoke Leather Goods

1 300x210 OTC x Frank Clegg: Bespoke Leather Goods When we first sat down with master leather craftsman Frank Clegg to discuss the idea of creating a leather goods collection, it was an idea not fully formed.  Our thought was to start with some basics, but to interpret them in a more luxurious way while still keeping practicality and function front and center.

After tossing around some options, we settled on an iPad case; one that could easily fit into a briefcase or be carried alone, have a classic design, and be right at home in the boardroom.  What we didn’t want was something flashy and overdone, just a little elegance to balance out its utilitarian nature. Frank suggested we modify his iPad case using a different leather and a touch of  alligator for the slip-in tab.

He also suggested we pair the OTC iPad case with a matching alligator iPhone sleeve. iPads and iPhones are common tools that require some degree of protection, and for those who prefer to keep their technology open and un-encased, the options are at times uninspired. The idea was to create a practical ensemble that would make sense for every day use.

So, how did they turn out? Beautifully.

4 300x210 OTC x Frank Clegg: Bespoke Leather Goods There is a masculine, classic quality to both OTC x Frank Clegg pieces that speaks of a refined elegance made practical.  These are simple designs, which are often the most difficult to execute due to the obviousness of any defect.

The iPad case’s wax-infused harness belting leather is dense and sturdy, but also soft and incredibly pliable.  The unique alligator tab adds just the right amount of show but is well-balanced by the case’s body. Flashy this is not.  The stitching, construction, and attention to detail are all exacting.

The iPhone sleeve is an unexpected favorite.  The exterior is constructed entirely of book matched alligator and lined in the same wax-infused harness belting leather, but here almost paper thin. The phone easily slips in and out yet remains snugly in place when inside.  It’s inherent elegance is in fact a foil to the iPad case’s reserve.

With the iPhone sleeve we have a true luxury item; one that could, as alligator often does, scream, “notice me!”  Instead, because of its size and simplicity, it’s more of a discreet, “yes, I’m handmade.”  As you might suspect, we here at OTC are not ones to typically anthropomorphize things  They are simply that good.

OTCxFrankClegg atwork2 e1332961863840 225x300 OTC x Frank Clegg: Bespoke Leather Goods Frank did a superb job and created luxurious accessories that have been used every day since the box arrived from Fall River, Ma.  They regularly garner stares and comments, compliments and questions – mostly, “where did you get those?”

A true artisan, Frank Clegg is not new to this business and you can read more about him and his background in an earlier OTC article.

His expansive skill set and perpetual design aesthetic means that he can customize almost any of his existing designs and create whole-cloth new collections with little difficulty.  It is a natural passion.  Prefer green signature tumbled leather over chestnut belting harness? No problem.  Need a shoulder strap with a 13 inch drop instead of 15 inch?  They can do that.

Want a set just like OTC’s?  Just give him a call – and more than likely, he’ll be the one to answer the phone.  But be quick, this is a very limited edition run.

Additional views below…

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Style & Substance: Frank Clegg Leatherworks

tan aiden 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksFrank Clegg doesn’t just make leather bags; he crafts heirlooms, one at a time, by hand.

While Frank and his small team of craftsmen design and build elegant leather goods under the Frank Clegg Leatherworks name, the workshop also produces exquisite products for some of the most revered of American luxury labels.

Frank is an artist of the old school; he learned craft over time and understands that when true luxury is involved, less is definitely more.

As with many true craftsmen, he has decades of experience and a repository of thousands of designs, both executed and waiting to be brought to life. Frank is a design and inspiration omnivore – the result of genuine curiosity and New England pragmatism. The more you know, the more you have to offer.

His bags and accessories grace the days of doctors, lawyers, artists, businessmen and globetrotting executives. The relationships he builds over time lead to new designs and the demanding exactitude of his customers keep sharp an attention to quality and detail.

Untitled 2 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksTake for example the simple pen sleeve. In so many bags, a place to put your pen is an afterthought; necessary but uninspired. In Frank’s bags the pen sleeve is part of the interior experience of the bag. It is honored.

The internal components of a Frank Clegg bag are kept to a minimum. Each pocket has a purpose and their scarcity forces the owner to selectively choose the items he carries. Such a bag inspires one to only put in it things of beauty, substance, and purpose. Hence the large, carefully formed pen sleeves. They almost beg for a vintage fountain pen, which Frank collects, or sleek, modern carbon composite roller ball.

Aware of his own depth of knowledge, Frank is also a generous mentor. Young, talented artisans and designers who see him as a font of practical knowledge and priceless experience regularly seek him out. They always leave richer in knowledge and ready to someday pass along the skills they too will develop over time.

Lexus Logo Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksLuxury leather work is a deceivingly complex craft. Even the modern conveniences of machines and computerized design must bow to the master of time, because it still takes time to create such durable beauty.

Frank may practice an age-old craft, but this creative innovator is very much on the pulse of today’s luxury goods market. An examination of his new Aiden Duffle Bag provides proof of this pioneering craftsman’s skill and ability to tweak tradition to meet the needs of a modern customer.

The Aiden is named for Frank’s father and updates his traditional carry-on bag with a modern, clean design. Its compact shape, reminiscent of a traditional doctor’s bag, belies some serious space, accessed through Swiss RiRi zipper that spans the bags’ entire length. The shape is distinctly streamlined and minimal, referencing a mid-century modern aesthetic, allowing the luxuriously soft tumbled leather and stunningly precise stitching to shine through.

Untitled 1 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksThe bag’s interior is a single open compartment devoid of any lining. Such finishing requires a master’s touch, as every aspect of the bag is open to detailed examination.

Interior seams are prefect and here the quality of the hand-selected leather is truly seen. The delicately arched handles and 1¼-inch shoulder strap bring sturdy functionality and visual balance to the bag.

The Aiden bag, and Frank Clegg himself, are examples of how modern innovation and hand crafted luxury can blend together to create something modern, classic, functional and timelessly stylish.

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by LEXUS via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of LEXUS.

 

The Classic Tote Bag

Boat and Tote Bag The Classic Tote BagObjects that never seem to go out of fashion often have a common thread.  Be it design or construction, function or functionality, the one thing that tends to win out in the long run is utility.

If something retains its function and ability to do its job over time, it will likely become a classic.

And the hallmark of the true preppy aesthetic is the re-purposing of utilitarian items for everyday life: foul weather gear becomes a fashion statement and prep school ties and tweed jackets move into the office.  The steamer trunk that great uncle Dan used at Yale is now a snazzy coffee table at the beach house.  These are the functional transitions which gave birth to cliquish subculture which in turn has, of course, grown into a full blown lifestyle concept.

A great example of this approach to life – utilitarian yet stylish – is the canvas tote bag. The most famous version of this functional workhorse is made by L.L. Bean. In fact, L.L. Bean literally invented the canvas tote bag category. The bag was originally developed to carry blocks of ice (back in the day when block ice was used to keep foods fresh in the ice box).

From these humble beginnings, the bag quickly became recognized for its simple yet elegant functionality. L.L. Bean started to offer the canvas tote in a smaller version and called it the “boat & tote.” It was perfect for lugging around sailing and boating items and the more abuse it suffered the better it looked. So began the WASPy affinity for this multipurpose wonder.

Torn LLB Tote Via 800 Ships co 300x300 The Classic Tote BagAs the Official Preppy Handbook cheekily pointed out, every New England family has several of these lying around the house. In some ways, these canvas totes are a sort of status symbol. That you know what these bags represent – where to get them, the history, even the perceived lifestyle they imply – makes them recognized and desirable.

The L.L. Bean canvas tote bag has been liberally copied by many competitors. The basic design has even been reinterpreted by suppliers to Wall Street brokerage houses and white shoe law firms. Their logoed bags, given as employee gifts or awards, have become New York collector’s items. Go figure.

It is not uncommon to see these iconic bags on the subway, commuting to work with their owners. They are neutrally appealing and bring a bit of the outdoors to the office without being at all kitschy. The midsized L.L. Bean version is perfectly proportioned to hold everyday stuff along with lunch or a morning bagel.

 

OTC Endorses knomo London

Knomo Logo Green OTC Endorses knomo LondonOTC has had the chance to test out a couple of bags from the London-based brand knomo .  Known for blending organic, contemporary designs with high quality materials and finishes, knomo bags are a great option for everyday use.

We’ve spent the past few weeks putting the Kobe messenger and Jackson briefcase through their paces and in both cases we have been really impressed.  As a work, commuting or general purpose bag, each combines great functionality, outstanding craftsmanship and clever design.

** In fact, we liked them so much that OTC is partnering with knomo to giveaway a brand new Kobe messenger bag.  All you have to do is like us on the OTC Facebook page and you are entered to win.  But hurry up because we’re going to pick a winner on Friday, October 28! **

Both the Jackson and Kobe are part of the Brompton Collection and are new for Fall 2011.  The great thing about these two bags is that they each blend naturally with an updated classic sense of style.

The Jackson briefcase is formal enough for regular business use but its clean and contemporary look keeps it from being too “briefcasy,” as one friend observed.  It feels great in your hand and, unlike many other “contemporary-classic” styled bags, the quality of its materials and construction is evident.

In the same way, the Kobe messenger bag, especially in the tan finish which we tested, is a great choice for a day bag that has a solid, elegantly casual presence.  Both bags retail for $295.00, a very fair price for what you get.

Jackson Briefcase2 300x254 OTC Endorses knomo LondonJackson
The Jackson is named after the American city of Jackson, Mississippi.  The full grain leather briefcase has a angular profile but the leather is remarkably dense and soft.

The laptop section within the main body of the bag has quilted padding and can hold a 15-inch laptop.  Additional internal zip pockets and elastic pouches are covered by the leather flap, secured by two mock-buckles.

Under the front flap are two smaller external pockets.  One is open with card slots and pen holders while the other is a handy zipped pouch.  An external rear newspaper pocket has a hidden magnetic closure.  There is even a zip-through sleeve allowing the bag to be slipped onto your roller bag.

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The Kobe, named for the sixth largest city in Japan, blends the same soft, sturdy leather with coordinating rPET material – made from recycled bottles – and brushed nickel hardware.  While normally not too hot on hybrid material bags (they never seem to look quite right: is it for the gym or the office?), we are definitely a fan of this one.

The internal layout of the Kobe is nearly identical to the Jackson briefcase except for the scooped cutout of the bag’s front wall which allows for easier access while being worn.

Kobe Messenger Open2 300x297 OTC Endorses knomo LondonIt’s also slightly smaller than the Jackson while still fitting a 15-inch laptop in its quilted sleeve.  Hidden magnetic tabs fasten the front flap and the adjustable wide shoulder strap is very comfortable.  The Kobe also has a handy full-length external newspaper pocket with a zip-though roller bag sleeve.

 

OTC Endorses: ETWAS Bags

ETWAS Stencil 300x225 OTC Endorses: ETWAS BagsThis article was originally written in 2010 after Will Lisak, founder of ETWAS Bags first got in touch with OTC.  It was in the form of a challenge.

Will commented on a post about Jack Bauer’s bag, from the television show “24,” stating that his bag was tougher than Jack’s. After getting to know more about Will and his company, ETWAS, German for “something,” we had little reason to doubt.

So, it was with satisfaction that we recently saw Will and his bags profiled in Issue 2 if the outstanding new menswear and lifestyle magazine, Port.  It’s a wonderful examination of this prolific and highly principled guy, focusing on Will’s absolute commitment to long-term style and minimal impact.

Some brands talk about civic and social good, ETWAS smacks you across the face with it.  More than that, Will backs it up all the way, as you will see below.  And, by the way, these clean, classic, modern bags are outstanding.

So, with ETWAS’ belated but growing appreciation among the style/craftsman/heritage cognoscenti, OTC is happy to remind everyone that we knew all this way back when.

My Bag 300x225 OTC Endorses: ETWAS BagsWill is a graphics design graduate whose dad taught him how to make small leather goods while growing up in western Pennsylvania. In fact, the tannery near his childhood home is where Will now gets the exceptionally fine and thick hides for his ETWAS bags.

A pragmatic guy, Will designed his original bag to simply fit a need at hand. He wanted a bike bag that served the practical purpose of carrying stuff while reflecting his aesthetic and environmental concerns.

Will tells OTC, “I wanted to create my ideal bag, not something was going to be dated in a few years.” The resulting prototype was simple, plain, sturdy and functionally stylish. It’s reminiscent of a classic dispatch case but also embodies distinct elements of a messenger bag.

ntrl bag 300x203 OTC Endorses: ETWAS BagsTwo narrow but sturdy straps secure a single, giant compartment. On either end of the bag, D-rings provide additional functionality. The solid brass hardware is sturdy but simple, almost discreet. On the front of the bag, those two straps can also be used to store a small notebook or folded newspaper.

The bag’s body consists of three pieces: the center wrap that creates the front, back, bottom and top flap; and the two side panels. This clean, almost minimalist design creates the illusion of compactness, but don’t be fooled. It’s actually a big bag. The overall message this bag sends is one of near-familiarity. You think you recognize it, but quickly realize that, no, it’s something different.

What’s also distinctive is its inherent imperfection. Since it’s entirely handmade – no machines whatsoever – there is a rustic roughness to the bag’s finishing. The edges are raw, except on the darker stained versions.  On the leather’s unfinished underside, you may very well spot template markings from when the maker went a bit off course.

bw side 237x300 OTC Endorses: ETWAS BagsSo, each bag bears the nuances and hallmarks of the person who made it. My own bag’s minimal idiosyncrasies don’t bother me at all. Quite the opposite; I often wonder about the craftsman who made it. Because of the personal nature of their construction, each bag takes about five hours to make; the connection between maker and owner is almost tangible.

The real star of this bag is the outstanding leather that Will sources. Thick and stiff, it takes time to wear in and though it will never really soften in the traditional sense, it will conform to the owner’s body and ease over time. It’s just beautiful stuff – from, as it turns out, a tannery close to where he grew up. The regular compliments I receive are evenly split between the bag’s overall look and the leather itself.

When you buy an ETWAS bag, you are investing in the kind of manufacture that is the antithesis of name brand large-scale production. While not inexpensive, with the original version starting at $600.00, Will could easily charge much more based on material and labor costs alone. With ETWAS, you are buying outstanding durability, one of a kind design and a genuine belief in keeping local, staying green and dedication to quality.

Will’s commitment to thoughtful production is evident in the fact that there is no ETWAS factory. Work is primarily done in a Brooklyn co-op facility. But everything needed to make an ETWAS bag can be found in the Design Box, a totally portable workshop that allows each craftsman to set up shop wherever he happens to be.  It’s more of a collective effort than it is a traditional start-up.

Bag Production 300x199 OTC Endorses: ETWAS BagsThe individual leather worker is the brawn that crafts every bag by hand. And by handmade, I mean no machines at all; not even for the Goodyear stitching on saddle-thick leather end panels.

They use a reinforced palm cushion to help drive a giant needle through the hide – no easy task. And true to his green beliefs they don’t even use any artificial lighting. When the sun goes down, they’re done for the day.

There are now three models available, the original Standard #1, a more compact version called the Light Pack and a tool bag-cum-purse.  Will is working to get his bags into more stores in Manhattan and to increase the brand’s online awareness. OTC wishes him luck and is honored to be an ETWAS kind of guy.

To learn more about ETWAS the company and its dedication to low-impact manufacturing, environmental sustainability and craftsmanship, please visit the company’s website.

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