Going Custom – Part 2

4 Final+Steps Going Custom   Part 2I wanted to give everyone an update on the progress of my VM Clothiers custom suit. I am very happy to say that it is now in my hands after being literally hand carried back from Hong Kong. Part 1 of this series can be found HERE.

I’m now in the process of putting it through a few real-world workouts. Overall, my immediate impression is a good one and I am very happy with the quality, fit, feel and construction.

I’ll get back to you with a more detailed review, but first I’d like to share some great pictures of the suit taken as it was being constructed in Hong Kong.

All of these images are courtesy of Vishal Mirpuri, owner of VM Clothiers.

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My suit’s stencil

First, a stencil is created for each individual panel of fabric that will be sewn together. The stencil is based on the measurements and instructions taken from the suit’s order form. Order forms tend to be very detailed as there are so many variations available to the customer. They can range from basic options like single or double vents to exotic interior pocket configurations.

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They then
cut the individual panels of fabric using the stencil. Each customer’s stencil is kept on file for future orders.

3 Sewing Going Custom   Part 2

Once the primary pieces of the garment are assembled, the master sewer takes over and begins the exacting process of sewing the jacket together. This includes major tasks, like sewing the arms to the jacket’s body and more detailed work, like creating button holes.

After the jacket is sewn together, finishing touches are made, including setting the jacket’s final shape. The photo at the top if the page shows this stage. The white basting thread is left in place until the jacket is ironed into shape.

5 QC Going Custom   Part 2

Above, you see the tailor making some final adjustments during a quality control review. Each suit is inspected to ensure everything has been done correctly.

This is the point when it all comes together – measurements and construction, balance, details, style and the many unique variations that make a custom suit “custom”.

6 Finished+Suits Going Custom   Part 2
A rack of finished suits

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Going Custom – Part 1

Hand+Stitching Going Custom   Part 1“Once you try custom, it’s hard to go back to off the rack.” These words, spoken by Vishal Mirpuri, owner of VM Clothiers, come back to me each time I slip into one of my still-new-to-me custom shirts.

Yes, I have finally entered the world of custom tailoring. However, I saved myself the airfare to London’s Savile Row and instead entrusted my sartorial needs to a talented young man right here in Washington, D.C.

VM Clothiers was founded in 2007 by Mr. Mirpuri with the goal of bringing custom tailoring to a younger crowd. For Mirpuri, tailoring is in the family. Back in Hong Kong, his has a 40 year history in this most personal of businesses. As a consultant by training, he saw the potential of bringing affordable custom tailoring to a new, style savvy generation.

 Going Custom   Part 1
Vishal Mirpuri

After drawing up a business plan and sorting out the logistical details back in Hong Kong, V.M Clothiers was born. Offering a wide array of custom suits and shirts, Mirpuri is personally involved with each client. He is a hands’ on one-man show, from taking measurements to helping his customers sort though the more than 1,200 shirt fabrics and 1,500 suit fabrics. At the moment, VM Clothiers is offering two seasons – spring and fall – with additional seasonal fabrics added to the core lineup.

Custom shirts can be ordered through the website, but taking measurements for suits and tuxedos is a hands’ on process. While a shirt involves seven distinct measurements, a suit involves more than 25 – not to mention many intangibles like jacket length, lapel width or lining fabric.

Mirpuri regularly travels the New York-Washington corridor to meet with clients. At least on day a month, VM Clothiers holds exhibitions in downtown Washington, D.C. These face-to-face events allow him to connect with current clients and meet with new ones. Mirpuri understands that a good tailor is like a good barber or auto mechanic – when you find the right one, you keep them around for a long time.

 Going Custom   Part 1
I’m also wearing a VM Clothiers shirt

This level of personal service sets Mirpuri apart from many of the automated custom shirt sites which have been popping up on the web. And the demand does exist; given its healthy supply of lawyers, bankers and consultants, Washington, D.C., is considered a top ten market for custom tailors.

With the professional business environment turning again to more formal dress, VM Clothiers’ market position is in good shape. It’s steadily growing client list is testament to the value of blending modern business sensibilities, quality products and a young attitude.

In my own case, I had already ordered two shirts from VM Clothiers, one of which I am presently wearing as I type. After washing, ironing and wearing these shirts at least six or seven times, I can say that I am a satisfied customer. Without a doubt, the fit and construction are better than most of my expensive off-the-rack shirts.

As for cost, the $55-$75 price range for a VM Clothiers’ custom shirt belies its quality and exceptional fit. So when I decided to move on to my first custom suit, I contacted Mirpuri and we set up the initial fitting session.

To clarify an important point, VM Clothiers is a custom tailor. This means that each garment is truly unique to the wearer. Where “made to measure” means that a pre-existing template is adjusted to fit a customer’s body, “custom” means that the clothing is cut specifically to the measurements of an individual and them assembled into a garment. With prices starting at around $550, Mirpuri’s suits are a relative bargain when compared to the $1,500 and $2,000 most other custom tailors in the area charge.

Sure, the suit is actually tailored in Hog Kong, but it is being constructed by dedicated craftsmen who work only for VM Clothiers. Mirpuri takes all the initial measurements and when the suit is ready, he will also do the final fitting and alterations. As I do not need this suit yesterday, the process works just fine for me. And if my shirt experience is any indication, I’m going to enjoy slipping on my new suit jacket.

Like a doctor making a sartorial house call, we met at my home and got right to work. I already knew that I wanted a two-button, single breasted grey suit with a notched collar, ticket pocket and double vents. For the trousers I wanted a flat front (no pleats) and cuffs. I also knew that I wanted working sleeve buttons on the suit jacket. It’s a personal preference that really serves no practical function, but I like it.

 Going Custom   Part 1
Lots of measurements

Whether you meet up with a tailor or head off to the store, it’s important to already have a general idea of what you want. Suits in particular can be overwhelming: single or double breasted, notched or peak lapel, single or double vents, pleats or no pleats, plain leg or cuffs? All these options form the starting point for your initial meeting. Once in order, they can help you pare down the process into manageable steps.

Though I chose to keep the standard interior pocket layout, VM Clothiers, like most custom tailors, can do almost anything –Blackberry pockets, flaps or no flaps, secure zippered pouches – the options are extensive. You can also select a unique jacket lining should you want to show a little personal flair.

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Stacks of suit fabric samples

I then settled into the process of sorting through a range of fabrics in innumerable weights and finishes. Try and have an idea of the color and pattern of fabric you want and stick with it. If you don’t have some kind of starting point, wandering through book after book of fabric swatches can be a confusing and distressing exercise.

For example, I liked many of the windowpanes we came across, but that was not my goal so to the grey sample book I went. My wife was the one who actually spotted the winner. It’s the nice three season medium grey super 120 shown here.

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The winner

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Final details

Mr. Mirpuri then started taking measurements – 27, to be exact. Collar and sleeves, chest and waist, inseam and cuff circumference – eventually I just lost track.

And then it was over.

Once we wrapped up our business and ironed out all the details, Mr. Mirpuri took my fabric selection and measurements with him on a long flight to Hong Kong. At this very moment, he is documenting the transformation of these numbers and sketches into a handmade suit.

This was a fascinating exercise and gave me a much deeper appreciation for the detail and exacting standards required by a good tailor. I’ll let you know how everything turns out so stay tuned for the next installment.

Click here for PART 2

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Obama’s Oval Office

obama oval 01212 Obamas Oval OfficeShortly after being sworn in as the 44th President of the United States, Barack Obama faced his first major crisis: being criticized for not wearing a suit coat in one of his first “working” Oval Office photos.

Since the criticizer was Andrew Card, George W. Bush’s former chief of staff, I’ll take his indignation with a grain of salt. Mr. Card was actually pretty harsh in his commentary on President Obama’s shirtsleeves picture; more or less accusing him disrespecting the formality and very sanctity of the office.

Much has been made about former President Bush’s strict suit and tie rule while in the Oval. Mr. Card made it clear that under President Bush’s tenure no deviation was allowed because the level of deference due to the Oval Office’s stature demanded it.

As these things have a way of playing out, within hours of Card’s rebuke at least one Oval Office photo of then-President Bush, in shirtsleeves, made its debut in cyberspace. More importantly, other photos of jacket-less presidents began popping up: Ford, Reagan, Carter and Clinton to name a few. Were they showing disrespect to the office, and by extension the Office, too?

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slide 938 15897 large Obamas Oval OfficeClinton thumb 485x352 Obamas Oval Office

Of course not and neither is President Obama. I won’t go so far as to say this is a manufactured controversy; rather, I think there are a few folks out there who fear a “casualization” of the presidency. Perhaps they see Mr. Obama as too laid back, too informal and his not wearing a suit coat in the Oval confirms their worst fear. Too much “change.”

Oh please. Was he wearing dirty jeans and an old Harvard sweatshirt covered in chili dog stains? No. He was attired in the de rigueur uniform of heads of state across the planet. There is no story here. Well, almost no story.

Living and working in Washington for as long as I have has taught me that when it comes to messaging, the White House – any president’s White House – is deliberate. That picture above, sure to become an iconic portrait of President Obama, was deliberately chosen to convey two messages. (1) The new president is hard at work, and (2) he is not George Bush.

President Bush, though always properly attired, even natty at times, never seemed very comfortable in business dress to me. Back on the ranch in Crawford, wearing a tee shirt, jeans, ropers and Stetson, the then-president seemed far more natural and himself.

Yet in the confines of the formal presidency – the president the world sees on TV and out doing his job – Bush was doggedly appropriately attired. I remember once speaking with one of Mr. Bush’s Washington, D.C., tailors and he showed a bolt of beautiful Harris tweed destined to become an odd jacket for the president. I loved it, though at the time I could not quite imagine his wearing it. Regardless, he always looked appropriate even if he seemed to chafe a bit in his suit.

So yes, Mr. Bush was a well dressed president who cared about how the office is presented and perceived – part of the reason for his “suits only” Oval Office rule. But his is not the only appropriate model of White house dress. Leaving aside President Clinton’s reputation for wearing sweats while working at the Resolute Desk, all presidents put their stamp of personal style on the office.

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President Obama is by any measure already a fashion icon, having appeared on just about every fashion magazine cover before even taking the oath of office. Though not outrageous or trendy the new president has already put a clearly modern and fresh stamp on presidential style.

His tie-less look on the campaign trail was so thoroughly analyzed and envied that it wound up as a story in the Wall Street Journal. Where most politicians or businessmen would look to have forgotten their ties, Mr. Obama appeared sharp, stylish, and professional.

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One of the reasons his no tie look is so distinctive and polished is that often he was wearing separates – the suit coat and trousers were of slightly varying hues. This trick breaks up the visual “oneness” that a suit presents so when a tie is removed from the equation, the overall look does not appear incomplete to the observer. Also, when going sans-tie, Mr. Obama chose to wear shirts with shorter collar points and a higher button stance, so that the look was both natural and proportional to the overall outfit.

As president, Mr. Obama has already established his public face and it is farmiliar: dark blue or gray suit, white shirt and appropriate ties. His off duty wardrobe, or at least off podium wardrobe, remains approachable and familiar to most men, with the exception of all those new jackets sporting the presidential seal. He called his Air Force One windbreaker “spiffy.”

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So, back to “shirt sleeves-gate”; I think that the nation, and the world, can rest easy knowing that the president has not abandoned all sense of propriety and decorum. He just took off his jacket, kept his tie on, and went to work.

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Time To Go Suit Shopping – You May Need One

WSJ+BandB+Article+%282.5.09%29 Time To Go Suit Shopping   You May Need OneThis past Thursday, The Wall Street Journal published a great article highlighting the growing trend of once again throwing on a coat and tie before heading off to the office.

The article, penned by Style columnist Christina Binkley, profiles Bickel & Brewer, a high powered law firm with offices in New York and Dallas. Perhaps an extreme case – even the mailroom clerks wear suits and ties – the firm is now seen as riding the wave of professional office wear.

Writes Binkley, “Even six months ago, that kind of talk might have sounded as outmoded as John Molloy, who penned ‘Dress For Success,’ the 1980s bible of corporate style. Casual clothing has long been seen as a sign of a modern attitude and has become an important job perk. In a 2007 column I wrote, a number of young lawyers defended working in Ugg boots, jeans and clingy T-shirts, arguing that they needed to be comfortable at work. They felt entitled.”

Not anymore. With the potential for layoffs very real, even in white shoe firms, lawyers (and many other professions) see dressing well at work as both a symbol of their professionalism and a form of career preservation.

I asked Binkley if she thought that, after researching her story, dressing up for work again was on the upswing across the board. “Yes” she said, but where a coat and tie makes sense. “I don’t think most offices are asking their mail room staff to wear suits. But in the same way that people are taking less time off work – because they don’t want to be away from the office with layoffs happening – they are also choosing to look more conservative and professional if they work in professions where that is expected.”

To real the full article, please CLICK HERE.

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Obama+MA+Ball2 Presidential Prerogatives: The Definition of "Tux"The other day, a reader sent along a link for my review. It was to an article from Slate Magazine analyzing President Obama’s sartorial choice for his evening of inaugural balls.

As you may have noticed, the president chose to strike out in a new direction – somewhere in between black tie and white tie.

The Slate article was rather critical of the new Commander in Chief, noting that in the past Mr. Obama has demonstrated a masterful understanding of formal dress. In this case however, the review of his choice in tuxedos was unflattering. The president was being dressed down, as it were.

While I normally prefer that men stick to the classics when classic dress is called for, as with black or white tie affairs, in this case I liked what I saw.

When the president and first lady made their initial showing at the Neighborhood Ball, all eyes were on the First Lady, but I immediately noticed something odd: the president was wearing a white pique shirt and tie with a dinner jacket.

Normally, these items are reserved for formal white tie and tails. By pairing them with a dinner jacket, obviously a deliberate choice as it was all custom tailored, he was making a clear sartorial point. Additionally, he went with a turn-down collar instead of a wing collar, also traditionally associated with white tie.

After getting over the initial incongruity, I actually warmed to the look – partly because it was neither forced nor showy. I never got the feeling that I was watching some of-the-moment mid range celebrity attempting to be edgy or hip. Quite the opposite really, he was absolutely cool and elegant.

Obama+MA+Ball Presidential Prerogatives: The Definition of "Tux"

My only nitpick, and here I agree with Slate, would be the choice of a notched lapel. It’s never appropriate on a dinner jacket for the simple reason that it visually references a business suit. And in doing so, the formality of the outfit is reduced. Even though you know it’s a dinner jacket, the overall silhouette is less appealing.

A classic peaked lapel would have been a better choice in my opinion. Now, there is the chance that the president was trying to streamline and modernize his tuxedo, hence the hybrid shirt and tie. By choosing notched lapel, perhaps he was seeking to make it less formal, less “old fashioned.” If that was his intention than I suppose at some level he probably succeeded; it was different and it was fresh. But the basic DNA of a tuxedo is in itself timeless and a peaked lapel would have been the classiest finishing touch.

The Obama campaign theme always revolved around change and it seems that this holds true on all fronts. Did the president commit a sartorial faux pas by striking out on his own in the land of the classic tux? After all, in this town every politician, lobbyist and pundit owns at least two. Or is this a case of outside-the-beltway naiveté? It was neither.

I think the president gave us an elegant, unique and a clever twist on the traditional. It was a statement, yes; but not a hollow one. The president was not thumbing his nose at anyone and he was not vainly attempting to “update” black tie.

He was telling us that he has his own style; refined and modern yet clearly grounded in an appreciation of traditional menswear. As far as I’m concerned, the critics should lighten up and appreciate this fresh and thoughtful interpretation on a classic.

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