The backbone of any serious wardrobe, the blue blazer is probably one of the most versatile garments ever designed. Without a doubt, it is the one article of dress clothing all men should have hanging in the closet. the blue blazer is universally useful and chameleon-like when it comes to meeting your needs in a sartorial pinch.  From casual cocktails to formal boardroom, a well made, well fitting blazer will get the job done.

When they hear “blue blazer” most guys tend to think of the classic brass button type found in a Ralph Lauren advertisement. Of course that version is the most traditional, but by no means is it the only option. Blue blazers come in a range of fabrics and styles that can work with almost anyone’s style – from lightweight linens to beefy flannels.

As the king of odd jackets, a blue blazer can fill the gap when you need to dress somewhere between a suit and a sweater, regardless of the season.

Styles vary as much as materials. Some blazers have horn or resin buttons and they can come with single, double or no vents.  Single breasted jackets typically sport notched lapels while double-vented versions should have only those of the peaked variety.

With its nipped waist and dramatic massing of buttons, a double breasted blazer imparts formality. On the other hand, a single breasted sack jacket with no darting and patch pockets can give you a more casual “drinks at the club” New England look.

When it comes to shoulders, there are some cultural variations as well. American blazers often have a soft natural shoulder, while English tailors tend to prefer them padded and more structured. This is particularly true with double breasted jackets. American makers like Brooks Brothers are arbiters of the natural shoulder.

When shopping for a blue blazer, approach it as a major investment. This should be a jacket that can carry you for years to come and something that you are happy to reach for in the morning. A well constructed blazer made from good fabric will be as comfortable as your favorite sweatshirt and its classic styling will conquer the vagaries of many fashion cycles.  that said, you do not have to break the bank when it comes to finding one that’s right for you.

Brands like J. Crew have spent years perfecting their version of the blue blazer  and in the process have made it into a cool must have wardrobe asset.  Online custom clothier Indochino recently launched its take on the classic double breasted blue blazer.  For a mere $300 you can have a blazer made just for you.  While this interpretation, geared toward a slightly more adventurous gentleman actually cuts a balanced and fresh look.

The blue blazer works because of its inherent versatility and balance between formal and comfortable. It’s one of those rare garments that has both stood the test of time and evolved to meet the needs of each generation.

These are the guys who look like they’re in the process of summiting Everest but in reality strolling up Capitol Hill and then catching the elevator to the second floor.

You’ve probably seen him too; out driving in a vintage AA yellow Range Rover Defender – complete with exhaust snorkel – that has never seen so much as a gravel side street.  His laptop is housed in an expedition quality backpack and he weathers the occasional shower in a Patagonia monsoon-proof rain shell.

Now, while I enjoy poking a little fun at the Urban Adventurer, it’s all in good humor.  I think most of us have exhibited a little UA in our own way.  In fact, it’s pretty remarkable how intertwined the outdoorsy/technical/adventure culture has become in everyday life.

I remember the days when L.L. Bean was a genuine New England experience. Until the Original Preppy Handbook came along, no one outside 13 colonies had ever even heard of it.  REI was the domain of serious hikers like my brother Greg, who was president of the Dartmouth Outing Club back in the day and even had the honor of being written up in Yankee Magazine for having to be evacuated off the Presidential Range after tearing open his leg on a crampon.  It’s a long story.

Nonetheless, I’ve said too many times to count that classic, preppy styles often center around the idea of repurposing functional clothing for daily life.  Who do you think started the trend of wearing foul weather gear to the office anyway?

The difference is that too often men who yearn to be manly men turn themselves in to affected parodies of their heroes. Everyone role plays a little bit; I like messenger bags, but I’m no bike messenger. Others sport military fashions yet have never so much as looked at a gun, or wear team jerseys that barely fit over their couch potato paunch.

These fashions are usually a desire to connect with a cherished role model or organization. It’s a search for identity and belonging; aspirational but not too often overblown.

Yet when it comes to the couture mountain man look, moderation seems to go out the window. Even if you really are a transcontinental hiker, please don’t sport your Fortress Peak GTX hiking boots in the office. It’s tacky.

When worn in moderation, I think the outdoorsy look is classic, fresh and emotionally fulfilling. One feels a little more independent, perhaps a bit lone-wolf about life. Rustic.  There are some rules, however.

Avoid at all costs strapping on a back pack while wearing a business suit.  It looks silly and detracts from the professional seriousness of the suit.  At the same time it also diminishes the coolness of the back back.  It’s college kid stuff.

If you do want to use a technical or messenger style bag while dressed up, opt for dark solid colors and not too many straps, buckles and other dangling things.

Some looks, like the pairing of a technical jacket with selected business attire, can be really quite pleasing.

With casual office environments still common, the appearance of rip stop cargo pants and hybrid “trekking” sneakers have proliferated as well. Throw on a moisture wicking pullover to combat the air conditioning’s chill and you might as well be at base camp. I suppose it’s better than flip flops and shorts, but why not at least try and dress a little better for for your office mates?

Pairing cargo pants and and a casual oxford, pulled together with a wide leather belt, is a great alternative. Instead of a North Face Skareb 55 backpack, why not a Jack Spade waxwear bag instead?

A mountaineering coat may be rugged and functional, but its scale and overall feel should still match your other clothing. Neon orange and yellow serve a purpose in the wilderness but can be a little too much on an early morning metro ride. Try sticking to neutral, earthy colors instead.

Should the weather turn and force you to throw on a rain shell before heading out, the basic rules of proportion still hold true. The outer jacket should cover your suit or sport coat and not leave it hanging out the bottom.

If done well, the look says you are at home in both the outdoors and the corner office. Your clothes, particularly in this case, should not look gimmicky or forced.

Assembling a great wardrobe can take a lot of time, effort and of course, expense.  When done well, it is not something you “do”; rather it becomes a process spread across the days of your life.  Because investing in custom suits or dress shirts, those perfect chinos or Ravello shell cordovan wingtips from Alden is only half the battle.

The other half of that ongoing endeavor is properly looking after your investments. Keeping your clothing and accessories in great shape takes a little work but that effort will pay off in long-term use and the wonderful, classic patina that only time can provide.

Having Ralph Lauren’s closet (above) sure doesn’t hurt either. For additional inspiration, check out these other outstanding closets.

all that being said, though the natural aging of fabric and leather and wearing down of cuffs and elbows are normal, and often quite charming, these inevitabilities should be held off as long as possible. Doing so allows your possessions to keep their appeal while still developing the character that makes you want to keep them around for years to come.

Here are a few basics that will help your cherished clothes last longer while still looking great.

Hangers
First, invest in good wooden hangers – there is no way around it.  Wood hangers support your garments, help preserve their shape and are aesthetically appealing.  While any sturdy wooden hanger is better than wire or plastic, hands down, some of the finest I’ve ever used come from Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project.  They are built to last and to protect the integrity of your clothing.  While not inexpensive, as an investment in your fine garments, they will probably outlast you and ultimately return handsomely on their capital outlay.

Second, use them! When done with your clothes for the day, hang everything up.  If dirty, throw it on the laundry or take it to the dry cleaner – just don’t pile things up on the floor.  Using a solid and well sized wood hanger (suit hangers for suits, slimmer hangers for shirts and felted bar hangers from trousers) will add years to your clothing and help protect your garments from snags, wrinkles and stains.

Make a point of keeping your closet in order too, so no crowding. Garments need room to breathe and space to air out. In most cases, wrinkles will work themselves out in between wearings. An impromptu steaming can help too – just hang your day’s outfit next to the shower.  A clean and orderly closet is also inspiring.  If you open the door and see a curated collection of favorites, getting dressed is a fun and fulfilling process.

Dry Cleaning v. Brushing
In general, most suits and sport coats only need to be dry-cleaned once a year. Delicate fabrics and linens may need more attention, but on the whole brushing your garments with a clothing brush will remove most dust and dirt. Spot cleaning can address minor stains and help avoid unnecessary trips to the cleaners. If your suit is looking a little too lived in, go ahead and take it in for a pressing only. It will look refreshed without being unnecessarily exposed to damaging dry cleaning chemicals.

Laundering Shirts
Though some people insist on dry cleaning their dress shirts, I prefer to launder them at home. When it comes to home laundering, cold water is usually best but always look for the care tag first. Iron on a slightly cooler setting and lay off the starch.

If you are still compelled to use it, than starch only those areas that can get a little unruly, like cuffs, collars and plackets. If you regularly send your shirts off to the cleaners, pass on the starch there as well. Commercial presses do a fine job of working out wrinkles without the need for extra chemicals.  When ironing at home, always remember to iron the backside of the shirt’s collar.  For cuffs, iron the backside of barrel cuffs and the reverse, the inside side, of French cuffs also called double cuffs.

Footwear Care
Nowhere else does the concept of “investment clothing” hold forth than with footwear. A good pair of quality business shoes can easily cost several hundred dollars and only move northward. Custom shoes quickly reach into the thousands. Though it can be a big financial hit up front, good shoes will always being in style and when properly cared for, can last a lifetime. Though they may seem an extravagance (and for many of us they are), custom shoes in addition to looking great, will help keep your feet healthy. So as a general rule, keep your footwear in top notch shape.

In addition to protecting your dress shoes’ leather with regular polishing, make sure to always use shoe trees. There are many variations, but the best are full-sized and made from untreated cedar. The shoe tree will absorb moisture and help maintain your shoe’s shape. Fancy varnished trees are fine too – the kind with heavy brass knobs or pull rings – in fact I’m looking for some myself.

Be careful to not overuse your good shoes. Don’t wear the same pair day after day; they need to rest and dry out. After you get home, give your shoes a quick brush down, insert the trees and give them a few a day or two off. Should you get stuck in a rainstorm or have to tramp through snow, do not try and quickly dry out your shoes; that can permanently damage your fine footwear. Instead, stuff them with newspaper, set them in a room-temperature place and leave them alone. Change the paper if it gets damp but don’t rush the process. Also, make sure to brush off road salts or dirt immediately. Once the leather has air dried, insert your shoes trees and give them a good polish and waxing to recondition the leather.

Shoe trees at work

In fact, splurge every now and then for a really good shoe shine.  In addition to being a fun, classic and masculine endeavor, a professional once-over is good for your shoes and extends their life.  One of my favorite stands is in Washington, D.C.’s Union Station – right by Amtrak’s F Gate. Those guys are the best.

Union Station Shoe Shine

When you get down to it, taking care of your clothing should not been seen as a chore; quite the opposite in fact. To me, looking after my clothes is a pleasure and since I’ve put a lot of effort, time and thought into my wardrobe, taking care of it all is a happy ritual.

I was recently in New York City, meeting with Alan Flusser with whom I will be working on a rather significant project, and was given an advance copy of Style & The Man. The book, which is an updated and trimmed down re-release of the seminal sartorial guide, hit the shelves this week and I have to say, it’s good to have Mr. Flusser back.

It’s an excellent guide for anyone looking to get a better understanding about the sometimes intimidating world of tailored menswear. More so, it’s also an invaluable resource when it comes to explaining what to look for in your clothes, how they should look on you and how you should feel in them.

The book is an updated take on the first half of the original Style & The Man – an outstanding tome in its own right. He’s dispensed with the extensive shopping guide that comprised the original book’s second half, but in reality nothing is lost. What we are left with is a straightforward guide on dressing well, fully updated for life in 2010. It’s a trim, easily portable volume of 137 pages that’s packed with great advice.

As Alan told me, “this book is one resource that men can go to and get a reasonably logical and fact based perspective on dressing well. In this era of designer and opinion driven fashion, the world is not, at the moment, overstocked in materials or academia devoted to the style aspiring consumer.”

Alan Flusser

That “Alan Flusser” is the byword for sartorial exceptionalism is really not a surprise once you spend some time with him. More than any other menswear authority, he understands the mechanics of personal style. Skin tone, hair color, eye color, face shape, body type and even your neck height, all play a significant role in finding the colors, patterns and styles that work for you. Are you short or tall, heavy or trim? It all plays a role.

Once you understand your own profile, you know what to look for when you hit the mall, or, you know, the bespoke tailor should you be feeling flush. Alan has spent his life studying the unique role that color and proportion play in how clothing affects the wearer.

There is a reason Ralph Lauren says he’s one of the most knowledgeable experts on men’s fashion.

Classic Flusser

“Much like golf or tennis, dressing is a skill that can be taught and learned,” says Alan. In Style & The Man he discusses things like what to look for in shirts, shoes and neck wear; explains the importance properly fitted of a suit shoulders; why lapel width matters; or the long-term value of a bespoke suit.

Did you know that good foot wear and a hand rolled pocket square can make any outfit look better; do you know why? This is the practical yet elusive advice that makes a real difference.

I plan on working with a designer to come up with a new, appropriately OTC-inspired, header. I’d like to get some reader feedback if you have a minute to give me you thoughts. In many ways, this site is as much yours as mine and I want to shepherd the OTC brand carefully and without loosing its heart.