Trends | Off the Cuff

Capital Investments (or Dressing for a Recession)

On October 21, 2008, By OTC

I recently read an interesting article that noted even in these challenging financial times, the sales of high end handbags – timeless and iconic styles rendered in exotic skins like crocodile – are in fact quite strong and by some accounts, growing.

Buying Long
According to industry analysts – and fairly clear to most people with a passing interest in sociology and economics – the women buying these expensive, sometimes very expensive, bags are making very deliberate long-term investments. The very opposite of the “It Bag,” these classically shaped and handcrafted bags bespeak luxury and class, often without a hint of a logo or brand name. They will be in style for a very long time, if not indefinitely; and that is key. This kind of accessory buying is a clear signal that consumers, at least moneyed consumers, are eying their pocketbooks. The Wall Street Journal recently noted that wealthy consumers are still spending, but across the board are focusing more on classic and less ostentatious fashion.

When things get rough out there, people tend to look inward and seek the comforts of the familiar and the traditional. Think of the home nesting boom that followed the brutal attacks of 9/11. By focusing on objects, places and styles that remind us of a safe and happy time, individually or collectively, we often find a common reference point at which to start again.

The classics do just that.

Today, with the near collapse of the world’s financial markets we face a similar psychic trauma. The economic crisis currently whacking people’s savings accounts across the globe is also affecting how, when and if people shop. Since the liquidity of everyday folk like you and me is not what it was even a few days ago, the investments we make in clothing and accessories take on greater importance. No longer buying to pass the time, people are looking at each purchase and asking about its long term staying power.

Back to the Classics
For example, if tomorrow I were to walk into the local haberdashery, which do you think I would go for: an of the moment skinny suit, skinny tie and schoolboy high-water trousers, or a more timeless cut that will carry me through a few years in style?

Put another way, in times of crisis we look to solid and trustworthy archetypes. After mixed results, institutions like law firms and financial services companies were some of the first to pull back on casual workday attire and the current crisis in confidence has the trend toward professional workplace dress accelerating.

When things are shaky in the world, the people handling our legal and financial security can’t just be competent, they better look competent too. We want to be reassured and comfortable with those who are supposed to serve or look after us – we need to see it.

In the simplest of terms, we want a suit. We want a briefcase and legal pad, a nice tie and polished shoes. These are the comforting images of stability, professionalism and classic, timeless style.

I suspect that we will be seeing a broader trend toward traditional work attire. It began about two years ago with the over-the-top preppy look driven by strong mid-market brands like J. Crew. That trend drew on the traditional New England seaside lifestyle, amped up with color and repp stripes as far as the eye could see.

Over the past few seasons, that trend has mellowed a bit and grown up, bringing with it more refined yet comfortable versions of traditional classics. Because classic styles and colors have the kind of staying power which can outlast most recessions, it is to those influences we turn when financial instability makes us reconsider the difference between “needs” and “wants.”

Retailers at every price point have indicated that menswear – meaning classic clothing with a capital “C” – will be a focal point for the coming seasons. Three piece suits – both gravitas inducing and functionally versatile – are starting to show up again. The blue blazer is getting a fresh round of appreciation as the go-to workhorse of many a wardrobe.

Basics, Basics, Basics
So, what does all this mean to you? I think, like the real estate mantra “location, location, location,” that the menswear mantra should be “basics, basics, basics.” Take the time and effort to build up the basics of a long-term wardrobe and it will pay you dividends.

The Grey Suit (in this case, Zegna)

So, before you rush off and drop a few weeks’ pay for some fancy Canali peak lapelled mauve and blue windowpane suit, make sure you already have at least one go-anywhere single breasted, two-button, notched lapel, medium grey suit in a nice three season weight – 120s is good. That suit will take you from first interview to cocktail hour with the CEO and back again.

And the rule of investing applies here too: always buy the best you can afford. Good clothing is an investment and should be treated as such. Continuing with the financial metaphor, the next step is asset allocation.

In addition to your core grey suit, get yourself a good stock of basic button down collar shirts in white and blue, maybe a pink one. The button down collar brings the shirt’s formality down just enough to allow it to work well with a suit or a blazer, tie or no tie.

Pinpoint dress shirts with barrel cuffs and point collars are a good choice too, though they are best suited for more formal outfits. Get a couple of French cuff shirts as a dressy option. Tailored khakis will cover most light business casual situations and a good pair of trim grey flannels will probably wear out before they are ever out of style.

Buying the best you can afford is never truer than when speaking about footwear. Good shoes will last you years, decades even. While there are several excellent style options when it comes to dress shoes, cap toes are a safe first choice. Formal enough for a suit when a heavier soled design is chosen, they can work equally as well with tailored separates. As an added benefit, black cap toes can be buffed to a high gloss and be paired with a dinner jacket. Add some wingtips, loafers and a pair of casual leather lug soled shoes to the closet and you have most of your footwear bases covered.

Cap Toe Oxford (Alden)

See what I mean? Basics; but basics that are well chosen, pull multiple duty and are of the best quality you can afford. With these essentials in your wardrobe you can ride out the swings of fortune secure in the knowledge that at least you will always be well turned out.

Having the classics taken care of also allows you the flexibility to play a bit with interesting ties or alternative shirts, unique cuff links, fancy socks or funky pocket squares. By investing in quality core clothing – and by no means was this an exhaustive list – you are building a stable base from which you can launch the occasional foray into trends and new styles while never losing your ability to show up looking sharp.

Let It Roll

On October 17, 2008, By OTC

Recently, an OTC reader posed to me the following question:

I’d like to ask your opinion on something — do rolled-up/cuffed pants make legs look longer, or shorter? I’m 5′ 7″ and started rolling up the bottom of my jeans/pants to look like a cuff, but was told it made my legs look shorter. (All the pants are pretty slim cut.) On the other hand, I’ve heard people say rolling up pants, sometimes even to the point where you can see skin/sock between pants and shoe, makes legs look longer.

I found this inquiry to be both interesting and timely. I’ve been seeing more rolled pants out on the street, some done well and others less so. When it looks good, this style can convey a classic and casual ease. Rolled khakis, paired with loafers, a washed oxford cloth button down, repp tie and blue blazer is about as Americana as you can get – very Kennedy clan at Hyannisport. Substitute pressed and cuffed khakis and the look is more dressed up but looses none of its inherent appeal.

Rolled khakis on the beach (r) – a classic look

Rolled jeans are a different story. Jeans traditionally have a simple narrow hem and rolling them can create a nice casual effect with a variety of meanings. A simple turn up imparts additional casualness to your jeans’ already comfortable personality. This look is perfect with worn in, beat up favorites. A wide flat roll easily evokes a 1950’s James Dean vibe or a seaside clam digging feel.

When it come to the effect on height, in most cases rolled-up pants can have the same visual impact as cuffed pants. Cuffed pants have a more defined bottom than un-cuffed and therefore give the trousers a clearer visual start/stop line. Due to a cuff’s grounding effect, on short men this can sometimes create the impression of shorter legs. This is especially true with a wide leg or heavy break that leaves the pant leg puddling around one’s ankle.

The same can be said of rolled pants, most notably when the pants are already too long. Once rolled up they look like little life preservers tied around the wearers’ feet. However, in both cases – cuffs or roll-ups – when the pants are trimmer and the length properly chosen, the look can be nicely neutral regardless of one’s height.

Sometimes, the point of rolling your pants is to create a dramatic look, not a subtle one. The picture below, from Ralph Lauren, is a good example. The rolled pant legs are bulky and prominent. In this case, the casual and outdoorsy nature of the model’s cargo pants can comfortably balance the look.

Matching the roll to the pants

On taller men, the problem of puddling can hold true, though the impact is less severe; there simply is more leg to balance out the mass of fabric down at the shoe. It is also easier for tall men to accentuate their height by tailoring pants with no break or even having them hemmed or rolled slightly too short. As my reader correctly points out the exposure of a little sock or ankle implies height via the leg being longer than the pants. Though it seems fairly simple, this can be a tricky thing to pull off and can sometimes come across as an affectation.

An example of elegantly rolled jeans

Whether you are short or tall, make sure that the roll is only one or two folds deep at the most. Unless you are specifically trying to capture that rumpled walking-along-the-beach-at-the-Cape look, you want the roll to be neat and hold its shape.

Personally, when rolling any pants, I also try and avoid it looking too manicured and perfect (often the cause of that unintended affected appearance). If I really want cuffs, I should go see a tailor.

Tagged with: Style Guides • Trends • Wardrobe/Clothing

Well Suited for the World Stage

On September 9, 2008, By OTC

A couple of weeks ago, I posted a column concerning my decidedly negative opinion of London Mayor Boris Johnson’s appearance at the closing ceremony of the Beijing Olympics. I found his ill fitting suit, untucked shirt and generally sloppy appearance both confusing and disappointing.

I received a host of responses; a number of them from Londoners defending Johnson’s well known eccentric style. Normally I am less vocal about this sort of thing. Individual style and personal proclivities are just that – personal – so, who am I to judge?

However, I firmly believe that there are times and places when you should make the effort to be well turned out. Weddings and funerals are two good examples. Representing your city and by extension your country, at a globally televised ceremony is also one of those times. I do not suggest that the British people foot a sizable bill for some extravagant bespoke work-up. I simply pointed out that a well fitting suit and closed jacket can do wonders for one’s image on the world stage.

The mayor’s questionable tailoring is thrown into sharp relief to me becuase more men actually seem to be focusing on dressing well. Washington D.C., though still beset by slouchy jackets, too long trousers, and sleeves that virtually reach one’s knuckles, has a growing population of men who express an elegant sense of personal style. And for the majority of younger gentlemen taking their first tentative steps toward the world of better clothing, the suit is where it all begins.

In particular, I have noticed more young men in suits, and not just the Jos. A. Bank standby. More and more I see more modern silhouettes, nicer fabrics and more attention to detail. This makes sense because at its heart, D.C. is a suit town and if there is going to be an uptick on the professional style front it will start with suits. From A-List lobbyists tucking into the best table at the Palm to the ambitious college grads haunting the halls of Congress looking for the next big move, suits are an equalizer. Once can find a nice suit for a few hundred dollars or have a personalized work of hand crafted art for several thousand.

It never hurts to try and
emulate this guy.

I hope that guys are finally realizing that there is no shame in dressing well and looking good. Though the suit may scare some men a bit, there is nothing to fear. Regardless of cost, a suit that is properly tailored to your body will fit you, flatter you, and make you look better, not worse. A well-tailored suit will hide your flaws and even out your physical idiosyncrasies.

The Washington, D.C. fashion ethic tends to favor the “look good, but not too good” approach, but that is not the same thing as looking like a baggy slob. And therein lies my problem with Mr. Johnson. Being irreverent and eccentric is not the same thing as being sloppy. The former is clever and nuanced; a wink and a nod to the establishment. The latter is just shoddy.

What are the key points to making a suit look good? First, get a properly sized suit. Too many men opt for suits that do not fit well – usually they err on the side of roominess. Don’t fall into that trap; ignore the size label and go for fit first. The suit jacket should fit closely to your body but not feel constricted. Your tailor can make quick work of the sleeve length, darting, button placement and the way the jacket lies across your shoulders. When it comes to how cuff you should show, ¼ to ½ inch is fairly standard, but it’s really a personal choice. Regardless, the goal is a visually we-balanced arm.

Your suit trousers should be hemmed. Cuffed or not, many men like their trousers to have a slight break over the shoe. However, this is a very personal thing and some prefer no break at all while others like a prominent one. This will often depend on the style of suit: modern and slim or classic and sack. Whatever you choose, make sure that when you look in the mirror you see an outfit that’s balanced.

So, take yourself and your best suit to a good tailor and experience the difference of wearing something actually fitted to your body. Be a man, show a little cuff and invest in a nice pair of shoes – Alden Medallion Tip Bals are quite nice – to highlight your newly visible feet. Once you have one good suit, one that fits well and makes you stand a little taller, you will understand why suits are the cornerstone of a good wardrobe.

Tagged with: Style Guides • Trends • Wardrobe/Clothing • Washington D.C.

Election Report: McCain’s Wardrobe in Need of a Good Tailor

On August 15, 2008, By OTC

Many of you may remember Alan Au from an article I posted back in April on style options for shorter men.

Au and his father Jimmy, run Jimmy Au’s for Men 5’8” and Under; a leader in providing tailored clothing to shorter men. Over at The Huffington Post Alan posted a great critical analysis of U.S. presidential candidate John McCain’s wardrobe challenges, which he contends are setting up the candidate for potential defeat. It is an interesting situation, because apart from the obvious comparisons – race and age – the amorphous subject of personal style has an enormous affect on voters in way they don’t consciously consider.

Like him or not, Barrack Obama is a rock star, so much so that McCain has lampooned his opponent’s celebrity in a series of mildly clever commercials – comparing Obama to Britney Spears and Paris Hilton. But regardless of his celebrity status on the pop culture front – Obama’s face is on tee shirts that I have seen people actually wearing, a lot – McCain must content with Obama’s “it” factor.

That, I think is one of the drivers behind Au’s interesting article. While he can’t bottle Senator Obama’s charisma, Kennedyesque speaking cadence, or his genuine ability to draw enormous crowds, he can do a better job at refining his own presentation. I have never been one to suggest that people change who they are to please others and I’m not doing that now. I am saying that McCain can take Au’s advice and better edit his packaging.

What I find particularly fascinating about this contest are the sharp lines of demarcation between these two men when it comes to image. While Senator McCain’s people gripe about unfair media bias, Obama’s celebrity-level attention and all those lifestyle magazine covers, don’t think for a minute that they don’t want the same for their man. At the moment, at least to me, John McCain often comes off visually as someone’s grandfather and I suspect that is not his handler’s goal. Obama’s look, modern yet traditional at the same time, brings in an international feel via a monochromatic color palate. Age and personality factor into these differences, but that’s not the only answer.

What do you think – apart from the politics of this race, where do you fall on the style front? Who is winning the perception race?

Tagged with: Style News • Trends • Wardrobe/Clothing • Washington D.C.

Style Guide: The Khaki Suit

On August 12, 2008, By OTC

I recently acquired a khaki suit. I’ve always wanted one and, being originally from New England, saw it as a happy inevitability. When warm weather hits, khaki suits – often in cotton poplin or chino – are to Connecticut what the seersucker suit is to South Carolina. Crisp, cool style that, as the day wears on, evolves into a slightly rumpled personal signature. Perfect.

My new suit is not cotton however; it’s a lovely Ralph Lauren extrafine worsted wool job. I wasn’t expecting to get a wool suit – certainly not in the midst of a particularly sweltering summer here in the nation’s capital. I had wanted to get a nice traditional lightweight summer suit, but as things turned out it was an opportunity I could not pass up. It’s a lovely suit and one that will get a lot of wear. So, I am still on the hunt for a good warm weather version in cotton.

The khaki colored summer suit can get sidelined by its flashier, more formal brethren, but it’s an important part of a well rounded wardrobe. Sometimes constructed of a cotton blend to better fend off the wrinkles, this style of suit is a nice in-between option for the steamy days of summer. It’s light and comfortable and can be worn with casual panache.

In fact khaki suits are wonderfully versatile articles of clothing. They can easily pull double duty when required; paired either with a French cuffed dress shirt, Hermes tie and handmade shoes or polo shirt, ribbon belt and docksiders. Either way, the khaki suit provides a neutral backdrop that accommodates your needs. It is neither formally stiff nor scruffily inappropriate.

And while it has been interpreted the world over, the true cotton khaki summer suit is undeniably American preppy at its core. Think about it – it is the ultimate pair of khakis taken to the extreme. While most versions are traditional sack suits, undarted, center vent and unpleated trousers with generious cuffs; to be sure, most designer’s takes on the khaki suit do not attempt to duplicate old money New England. I’ve seen HRH the Prince of Wales sporting a lovely double breasted version and no one would mistake him for a Bloody Mary toting beachcomber.

Still, for the rest of us, it is a nice way to inject a little stylish fun into our wardrobes.

There are some potential pitfalls to this outfit, the most common of which is easy enough to see on the street. Put simply, if you are not careful the khaki suit can quickly take on a sweltering and bedraggled appearance. When it comes to cotton suits, there is fine line between having rumpled personality and being sloppily disheveled. In D.C. the latter is a common sight – with an overstuffed knapsack dragging down one shoulder, sweaty shirt billowing out from beneath an un-pressed jacket and pants hemmed too long dragging on the pavement. Appalling but unfortunately not unusual.

So extra care of your cotton khaki suit, it will make a world of difference. That means treating it like any other suit; have it properly tailored and regularly cleaned. You’ll be glad it’s in the rotation.

Tagged with: Style Guides • Trends

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Capital Investments (or Dressing for a Recession)

Let It Roll

Well Suited for the World Stage

Election Report: McCain’s Wardrobe in Need of a Good Tailor

Style Guide: The Khaki Suit

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