Timeless Classic: The A-1 Flight Jacket

Rockwell Freedom Speech Timeless Classic: The A 1 Flight JacketIn this weekend’s edition of the Wall Street Journal, I read a great piece about Norman Rockwell’s famous painting, “Freedom of Speech”.

The iconic image, pictured here, represents one of the four “essential freedoms” set forth in Franklin D. Roosevelt’s inauguration speech of January 6, 1941. The painting was made in 1943 as part of the four image series. While the other three – Freedom From Want, Freedom From Fear and Freedom Of Worship – are equally inspiring, Freedom of Speech is particularly special to me.

Apart from allusions to the Lincoln-inspired central figure and the less direct hints of church and school, central tenets of American culture, what caught my attention was the jacket.

That central figure, the common man speaking his mind at a town meeting, is wearing an Army Air Corp A-1 flight jacket. The symbolism of the jacket, clearly worn and softened by age, tells us that perhaps he served in the military in his younger days and now works in a manual but honorable field. He is the embodiment of the classic “great citizen”.

A1+Jacket+Pic Timeless Classic: The A 1 Flight Jacket
A modern version of the A-1

I once had that jacket, in a manner of speaking, and mourn its loss whenever I think about it – like now. Many years ago I ordered the A-1 from the now defunct Willis & Geiger, then a part of Lands’ End. I felt, once I had actually tried it on, that the jacket was too snug and a bit too new looking. So, I returned it; what an idiot. Shortly thereafter W&G closed its virtual doors and the jacket was gone for good.

Only now do I fully appreciate the totally unique and classic style this jacket represents. Why is it snug? To fit close to the pilot’s body in the cramped cockpit. It’s button-front closure is the result of the zipper not yet having been invented in 1927, the A-1′a year of issue. The knit collar, a variant of the baseball jacket type, was designed to close snug around a pilot’s neck and keep out the cold wind of an open cockpit.

Too new looking? Well, it was new and I was stupid. In hindsight I see with painful clarity how beautifully that capeskin would have aged. So it goes.

The A1 is the predecessor to the better known A2 and it is easy to see the early DNA of the endlessly copied A2. Technically referred to as the A1 Summer Flying Jacket and manufactured as Navy issue from November 1927 to 1931, it was eventually replaced by the G1.

A2+USAAF Timeless Classic: The A 1 Flight Jacket
The well-known A-2

Eastman, a manufacturer of exacting reproductions notes that the A-1 was synonymous with early aviation heroes, including Jimmy Doolittle, Ira Eaker and Carl Spaatz. The A-1 was also the very first of the windcheater-type flying jackets outfitted with knitted waist and cuffs, and a design that was to set the basic outline for flying jacket styling to this day.

A1+Jacket+USAF+Museum Timeless Classic: The A 1 Flight Jacket
Eastman’s Reproduction A-1

Although superseded in design by the A-2 in1931, the A-1 was still being issued, albeit in limited numbers, well into the 1940s, and was not officially declared obsolete until September 29th 1944.

Originally, the A-1 was specified to be made from a olive drab cape leather, but the few existing examples that can be found today are always a chestnut-brown shade of capeskin. High detail replicas, essentially historical reproductions, can cost anywhere from $800 to $1,200. Modern versions in hide can run around $400.

The great thing about the the A-1 is that it is both a classic example of timeless style and something at works seamlessly with say, jeans, a white J.Press oxford and old docksiders. It’s both old school and modern cool and you can’t beat that combination.

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OTC Profiled on Washingtonian.com!

2009 Sep OTC Profiled on Washingtonian.com!I am very excited to announce that Washingtonian.com, the online home of Washingtonian Magazine, today profiled Off The Cuff on its Capitol Comment Blog.

That OTC has captured the interest of a blue chip publication like Washingtonian is cool enough, but the photo of me even impressed my wife. Trust me, I’m not nearly as swanky looking in real life.

The interview was a lot of fun and I want to send out a big thanks to the staff over at Washingtonian. It is truly a humbling experience to realize that OTC has grown into such a leading resource for so many people in so many places.

Off The Cuff 8119 OTC Profiled on Washingtonian.com!
Photo by Chris Leaman, Washingtonian Magazine

I also want to point out that the suit I’m wearing in the photo is the same one profiled in my “Going Custom” posts.

There was some back and forth in the final “Custom” installment, and hopefully this picture better captures the excellent fit and styling of the VM Clothiers suit. By the way, he also made the double cuff shirt I’m wearing in the shot.

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Quick Shot: Nantucket Reds on the Potomac

KR+Red+Pants Quick Shot: Nantucket Reds on the PotomacNo the clearest of pictures, but this guy is always on the move. I couldn’t get him to stand still long enough for a clear shot. KR is a honest-to-goodness DC lobbyist and a darn good one at that. He’s also a very snappy dresser.

A South Carolina native, he passes up the standard suit and tie when he can. Here he is sporting a pair of beat up J. Crew “Nantucket Reds” (I know, not the real ones from Murray’s Toggery), white oxford and just out of view some nice Allen Edmunds loafers.

He always points out that the pants were a good deal at the J.Crew outlet. One of the great things about KR is that he he has his own sense of style and anyone who doesn’t like it can just go to hell. In fact, he has some of the best GTH pants I’ve seen. I would call his look Southern preppy/urbane casual. Even when he’s totally dressed down, there is a certain coolness to the ensemble.

Some of you might remember KR from the Black Tie and Boots Ball at President Obama’s inauguration. I always tell him that he has the kind of style that will get him on the web, so be on the lookout for future shots.

Style Profile: The Obama Effect

Obama+Suit Style Profile: The Obama EffectPresident Obama’s sense of style is back on the front burner – at least in DC.

The Washington Examiner newspaper recently noted a fashion trend among the influential and political. They want to look like Barrack Obama. More specifically, they want to dress like him.

While the classic dark two-button suit is about as de rigueur as you can get in the Nation’s Capitol, many men don’t seem to do it very well. Those who do tend to retain the services of a custom tailor and it is these gentlemen who are spilling the beans. Tony and powerful clients, from A-list lobbyists to committee chairs, ambassadors to diplomats, all seem to be heading in the same sartorial direction. And that path leads to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.

According to Anthony Asaf of Empire International Custom Tailors, many of his political clients are asking for slimmer suits, trim pant legs and a more natural shoulder with less padding. Asaf, who regularly travels to Washington from Hong Kong and whose suits can run north of $4,000, says that Obama’s influence is being felt more and more in the fitting room.

FIT & BODY TYPE
One reason that President Obama is having such an impact on the suited world is that unlike many of us, he always seems to look good in a suit. Yes, they tend to be conservative, dark, two-button suits paired with white shirts and reassuring ties. But that is to be expected. He is, after all, the President of the United States and it is incumbent on him to project a solid and secure image. But what gets the attention is how Obama wears his suits; and the key there is that they fit well and they fit his body type.

 Style Profile: The Obama Effect

Just by addressing these two factors, fit and body type, most men could improve their appearance ten-fold. One of the classic keys to looking good is knowing your body type and buying clothes that flatter your real body – not the one you wish or think you have. This is true for men of all shapes and sizes. Last year I wrote a column about one the country’s top stores for shorter men in which this exact issue was addressed.

The president is tall, over six feet, and in excellent shape. As he tends to opt for cardiovascular workouts, basketball for example, he is lean rather than bulky. His suits therefore have longer and narrower proportions. However, they do not cling to him – they are cut to provide a degree of movement and form that also balance his height and avoid a skinny, gangly appearance. The result is the now familiar trim and slightly athletic silhouette.

DETAILS
The president’s classic two-button jackets are proportionally tailored to match the longer scale of his torso – proper scale being a benefit of custom suiting that any man would appreciate. Men with similar physiques should also avoid suits that are too tight or overly fitted as they can accentuate the wearer’s skinny frame. What makes the president’s suits look so good on him is that they are fitted but not too much so.

Obama%2BHolds%2BFinal%2BPrimary%2BNight%2BEvent%2BSt%2BPaul%2B2ej4I0LT2sQl Style Profile: The Obama Effect

His trousers have a trimness that still allows for fluid movement while avoiding a stick figure effect. They also tend to incorporate a generous break which provides the visual reference of grounding his legs. If he wore them with little or no break, attention would be drawn to the leg and likely give the impression of wearing “high waters”. He also appears to favor a slight tapering on the pant leg which also deemphasizes the leg’s “swing” – another problem faced by men with longer legs.

PRESENTATION
On a more philosophical level, Obama’s clothes match his persona. The clean and elegant lines of his suits, and frankly his casual wear, blend naturally with his overall demeanor.

Mr. Obama has a unique style that is new to the White House. This president is urban and urbane, intellectual and in a way quite professorial; but he is not bookish per se. Still new to the job, he is young but not immature and though he possesses echoes of John F. Kennedy’s “new vigah”, it is (to me) without any blatant imitation.

 Style Profile: The Obama Effect

His pared down but detailed wardrobe reflects these traits. Verging on monochromatic though still fresh, elegant but sparing; his clothes reflect well on the man in a simple and straightforward manner.

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OTC For Ivy Style

I recently had the opportunity to be a guest writer over at Ivy Style, a site of encyclopedic scope dedicated to the living history of classic Ivy League style, and lifestyle.

That Christian even thought my writing is up to Ivy Style’s considerable standards is enough of an honor. My piece on the legendary Tom Watson, the man behind IBM’s rise to global prominence (and a natty dresser to boot) was just posted.

If you have a few minutes, please hop over to Ivy Style and check it out.

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