Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)

vineyardvines christmas 300x225 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)In Part One of this column, we took a look at the philosophy and strategy behind the brand that is Vineyard Vines.  Now, let’s look at the business side of that ubiquitous pink whale.

A very important thing to note about Vineyard Vines is that they are opening brink-and-mortar stores while almost any other brand in this market segment is either closing them of postponing any further retail expansion (let alone refurbishment of existing units).

Vineyard Vines’ decision to follow a corporate/institutional branding strategy alongside its retail market is a big reason for their resiliency in the current economic environment. Their corporate/college/sporting division’s business offsets, or at least makes less impactful the capital costs of their retail operation.

This duel market strategy and Shep and Ian’s ability to create a real and passionate culture around their brand are two key reason that they are thriving while other bigger and better financed brands are just trying to stay afloat.

Vineyard Vines Logo 300x84 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)Early on, the company focused on the college market as a key demographic and it has been a successful effort.  Go into any college store anywhere in the country and you are likely to find Vineyard vines branded ties, polos and tote bags.  That well-known repeated logo pattern is a virtual signature telling you from a distance that the Dartmouth green necktie with the never-ending shield repeat is the work of Shep and Ian.

Hitting The Books
In the same spirit of Jimmy Buffet, Vineyard Vines has college tours that bring the brand’s lifestyle directly to college students on their campuses. Complete with beach parties and pink foam whale hats reminiscent of Buffet’s “land sharks” they are marketing the Vineyard Vines brand directly to a core consumer audience.  Some critics point out that in some segments – namely fraternal groups – the brand has become synonymous with boozy college keg parties.  While not really the company’s fault, it’s a persistent form of collateral brand damage none the less.

Unflattering subsets aside, this kind of legwork does indeed develop an enthusiastic and educated customer base predisposed to support the brand and product outside of the college environment.  They see their support of the brand as integral to their own lifestyle.  Tell me of any retail lifestyle brand that wouldn’t want a market full of grade school-to-country club ambassadors.

VV college Branding 300x178 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)How is all this managed?  The company has a business unit dedicated to producing customized designs for colleges, their sport teams and fraternal organizations.

Think of it as a collegiate marketing version of vertical integration. If it works right, pretty much anything that campus needs will run through, or at least by, their Vineyard Vines rep. To keep these collegiate efforts coordinated and effective, Vineyard Vines has dedicated brand managers who focus solely on the university market; working with student leaders, administrators and sports teams.

A key goal of course is that as these students grow up and head off to their own careers, a new supply of Vineyard Vines diehards are ready to open their wallets.  They’ll graduate to corporate casual, weekend and country club lives and bring Vineyard Vines along for the ride.  The thing that makes this philosophy tangible is that unlike other aspirational brands – the ones that let you believe that buy wearing their shirt or shoes you too will live in a countryside estate – the Vineyard Vines “lifestyle” is approachable and believable.

The Vineyard Vines world is populated by people you know doing things to which we can all relate: having weddings and graduations, going to parties and just hanging out with friends.  That life is not only easy to aspire to, it’s tangible and easily made real though you and your best friends all sporting the same Vineyard Vines tie and khakis in that Christmas party picture.  Now that’s aspirational branding.

Wearing the Whale
The brand also fits nicely into the preppy/New England Americana trend that has been evolving for the past few years.  In fact, rather than losing steam the look seems to be gaining, moving into new markets and creating its own subsets of “authentic” work wear, classically inspired sportswear and deeper dives into the prep school ethos.

VV Fans 300x200 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)The brand also has an appeal that reaches those who will never set foot on the Vineyard and who will never be part of “that” life and the continuing economic downturn provides a silver lining of sorts because customers are drawn to safe, stable, familiar styles now more than ever.

The company’s classic, some say pedestrian, designs will be in style for years and have a certain malleable nature that engages both New England Gold Casters and Southern preps used to bolder color palates.  Typically, Vineyard Vines pieces are not standouts; rather they are good compliments of other aspects of an outfit.  Supporting, rather than starring roles as it were.

Fall 2010 changed up this historical rule however and it seems that Vineyard Vines’ designers were looking to the highly stylized designs of Ralph Lauren’s Rugby brand for some inspiration.  Mild compared to Rugby’s hyper prep school look, but still a noticeable uptick on the style front.

VineyardVines2 300x200 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)For some then, the traditional designs of Vineyard Vines shirts, pants and shorts represent stylistic security as well as comfort. As an OTC reader one observed, Vineyard Vines is no Ralph Lauren. While the two share a seaside/preppy/windswept lifestyle brand, Ralph is champagne and oysters, Shep and Ian are Sam Adams and lobster rolls.

The brand has never been about highbrow, but it does appeal to the lifestyle sensibilities of many who want some of the privileged coastal life. Functionality plays role as well. A Vineyard Vines polo, tie, fleece jacket or classic “bare feet” D-ring belt will be in style now, a year from now and probably 10 years from now.

Their tote bags have become, especially for many young women, signature accessories. Other items like blazers, oxfords, shorts and pants all reinforce the Vineyard Vines lifestyle without the overbearing brand association of a Ralph Lauren-like status issue. The message is often that if you are a Vineyard Vines person, you are a fun loving low key brand ambassador who doesn’t need go out of your way to impress others.

Washington, D.C., has also found the brand to be a good fit. Apart from its appealing natural heritage and traditional preppy theme, there is a long running and bipartisan relationship that politicians, particularly from the Northeast, have with Vineyard Vines ties.

VV Obama Tie 300x217 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)During his 2004 presidential run, Senator John Kerry (D-MA) commissioned blue donkey ties for his staff which quickly attained must-have status. Since then, Vineyard Vines ties and belts sporting donkeys, elephants, and American flags regularly dress up blue or red political operatives from Capitol Hill to K Street.

For then-Senator Obama’s 2008 presidential run, Vineyard Vines came up with Capitol Domes and the Obama “O” logo on the tail.  Is there a now a White House version?  Hmmm, I’ll have to check on that.

Even those classic Vineyard Vines totes have been tricked out with blue/donkey or red/elephant trim – my direct observation showing this item to be a perpetual de rigeur accessory for Hill interns and staff alike.

The Business of Fun
From a purely business perspective, Shep and Ian are pretty smart guys. They understand the power of branding and customer association to the Vineyard Vines island lifestyle. They are heavily involved in non-profit, good will and social activities in many of their key markets. The brothers understand the financial and marketing benefits of letting their brand grow organically and in markets that make sense.

VV Sox Tie Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)One of those markets is corporate branding. The company produces neckties and select garments and accessories for the National Football League and  Major League Baseball.  Where one might typically expect to see repeating sailboats, instead team logos scroll across ties.

In announcing the NFL deal several years ago, SportsBusiness Daily, quoted NFL Vice President of Consumer Products Susan Rothman saying, “we have ties in the market, but they don’t have the quality that Vineyard Vines has.” She went on to say that additional team branded Vineyard Vines products are a logical next step.

In addition to its collegiate and professional sports business ventures, Vineyard Vines provides an extensive corporate branding service that captures lucrative company contracts for employee polos, fleece, etc., and corporate gifts, like tote bags, hats and jackets.

Vineyard Vines TP Tote 300x223 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)Cashing on on the blog-fueled interest in TRUE PREP, the long-awaited follow-up to The Original Preppy Handbook, the company partnered with author Lisa Birnbach to play host to a national book signing tour and produced a capsule collection of TRUE PREP branded product.  the move garnered attention from multiple quarters and also positioned, or re-positioned if you will, Vineyard Vines as a classic brand equal to L.L. Bean when it comes to its preppy DNA.

Minding The Store
Vineyard Vines has taken a creative approach to its retail outlets as well. The company makes a concerted effort not to cannibalize existing retailers whenever possible. In many cases, they actually partner with their existing retailers in developing a new stand-alone Vineyard Vines store.

This strategy captures local market knowledge and existing customer bases, engenders goodwill with their local partners and consolidates retail channels. It also frees up the corporate team to focus on product development and branding efforts.

vineyard vines store large 300x200 Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)The company has won numerous awards, including being named a 2008 All-Star Awards winner by Apparel Magazine for outstanding achievements in the apparel industry. Though it certainly has its detractors, Vineyard Vines continues to be a case study in creating and building a passionate and successful business.

The company also invests in robust back office and supply chain management software.  Controlling costs and inventory across the various retail platforms (web, catalog, company store and retail) is just as vital as customer development.

Vineyard Vines’ website is regularly refreshed, while still retaining it’s clean and brand-appropriate friendly feel.  Though relatively new, the company’s blog, “The Vine” is refreshingly non-corporate feeling.  An active Twitter feed and Facebook fan page round out a robust if relaxed social media platform.

If there is an area of legitimate concern regarding Vineyard Vines’ brand, I think it is the issue of brand dilution. By moving into so many tangential markets – collegiate, fraternal, club, professional sports, corporate – the Murrays do run the risk of muddling what Vineyard Vines really means. If I can pick up a dozen San Francisco 49ers Vineyard Vines ties at Marshall’s for $12.99, exactly how special is that brand? What lifestyle am I really buying?

It’s a legitimate concern and frankly one I suspect has already been mulled over up at the Stamford, Connecticut, headquarters.

IMAGE 1 Truely Preppy Travel: True Wind Sailcloth BagsI grew up sailing 420s on Long Island Sound and still have a real love of the water. Sailing, as with many physically challenging sports, makes you appreciate the quality and construction of your equipment and accessories.

For example, Sperry topsiders are beloved by sailors because they actually work well and last. They look pretty good too, especially after being waterlogged a couple of dozen times.

Storage is another big issue, and a good bag is worth its weight in waterproof sailcloth. There are several companies that manufacture tote and duffel bags out of recycled sailcloth – my wife has a cool one with the original number “4” stitched on the side.

But only one company, True Wind, is manufacturing its bags out of brand new Dacron sailcloth, the same stuff that is normally turned into the sails that power some of the world’s top racing boats. From the ground up, True Wind’s bags are uniquely designed and built like tanks.  They were kind enough to send me a Port Laptop bag for testing and review some time ago and after months of use, it’s holding up incredibly well.  What goes into the bag is what makes it so durable.

420+Sailing Truely Preppy Travel: True Wind Sailcloth Bags

Their sailcloth is custom woven in Ireland by Hood Sailmakers, the world’s oldest Dacron sailcloth manufacturer, and the only sailmaker in the world that weaves its own cloth.

Hood’s legacy goes back to its founder, the legendary yachtsman Ted Hood, and was the first company in the world to use man-made fiber (Dacron) in sailmaking. Almost from the beginning, Hood sailcloth has been the cloth of choice for some of the largest and most prestigious cruising, classic, and racing yachts in the world.

For True Wind, using custom woven sailcloth gives them total control over the cloth’s color, hand and finish. In production terms, that means the cloth is of consistent high-quality from one bag to the next. Speaking of production, each bag is made individually by hand, and completely made in America.

Ditty+Bag Group Truely Preppy Travel: True Wind Sailcloth Bags

The price point for True Wind bags is higher than some other sail cloth bags, but as owner Meredith Marquis pointed out to me, you really get what you pay for. Premium materials and attentive domestic production make these bags legitimate heirlooms.  And True Wind is a genuine family business; Meredith and her brother Roger who grew up sailing of the coast of Long Island, founded and still run the company.

Everything that goes into Marquis’ bags is well thought out. The solid brass hardware even comes from the same manufacturer that produces for Coach. All of the other materials, right down to the thread, is marine-grade and of the highest quality.

From a design perspective, True Wind’s bags are genuinely unique. The distinctive stripe pattern takes its inspiration from maritime signal flags; “Y” to be exact. Most of the recycled bag brands all use the same design of numbers and draft stripes, which are the thin strips of color that go across a sail to help the sailor see the shape of the sail. While this random element of “found design” can be appealing, sometimes those bags can take on too-rustic a look.

Navigator+Duffel Group Truely Preppy Travel: True Wind Sailcloth BagsLastly, since True Wind’s sailcloth material is brand new and its bags purpose-built, I feel that I could beat the heck out of one and not worry about it. Bags made out of recycled sailcloth are, to me, more of a fashion item – perfect for a cool tote bag, but perhaps not for a duffel bag headed towards an airline baggage handler.

To learn more about True Wind bags, check out the company’s website. By the way, their bags make a great holiday gift and can be monogrammed.

Tagged with:
 

J.Crew + Monocle = Perfect Fit

cover 31 J.Crew + Monocle = Perfect FitThe crew from Monocle, one of OTC’s favorite global culture magazines, has joined forces with J. Crew, one of OTC’s favorite menswear labels.

In the latest issue of J. Crew’s catalog, Monocle’s editor-in-chief Tyler Brûlé and several of his editors and staff are seen in Monocle’s London offices, styled through the eyes of J. Crew.

It seems that Brûlé and J.Crew CEO Mickey Drexler have know each other for years, so the collaboration – and Monocle is the master of pitch-perfect collaborations – is, well perfect. The outfits chosen by J.Crew’s sylists seem to fit each man just so, highlighting, or least alluding to, some defining aspect of their personality.

Though J. Crew has done several of these “real people” mash-ups, this one is particularly inspired because Monocle represents two key elements that fit well in J. Crew’s world – and visa versa. Monocle endorses the benefits of creative societal impact, something J.Crew has pioneered with its increasing emphasis on the “craft” aspects of it’s Men’s offerings. And the magazine also champions the importance of unique, independent brands, again, something that J.Crew has successfully married to it’s own giant corporate brand.

TBrule J.Crew + Monocle = Perfect Fit
Monocle’s Tyler Brûlé

Check out the Monocle/J.Crew collaboration HERE. And always make sure to visit Monocle’s exceptional website and its daily Monocolumn. If you are an iPhone devotee like me (or Blackberry, one of Monocle’s collaborators), I also heartily endorse the Monocle weekly podcast.

Tagged with:
 

OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum

Ventus+Brown+Leather+Front OTC Recommends: Suunto ElementumAbout two months ago OTC was contacted by Suunto, a watch company based in Helsinki, Finland. Suunto is best known as a designer of midrange digital sports watches that border on being wrist computers.

Founded in 1936, Suunto has a long and respected history as an innovator in sports timing, especially in the field of digital timing.

It turns out that Suunto is going upscale and wanted to see what OTC thought of the effort.

The new Suunto Elementum collection – exclusively manufactured in Finland – consist of three unique watches geared to specific activities. Now, as you may already guess, OTC does not really fit the digital watch model. Typically, when we discuss watches we’re talking about things like the benefits of tourbillions or how the very inaccuracy of mechanical watches make them so special.

That is still very much the case here, but the Elementum caught us off guard. These stylish, urban-inspired watches combine a high degree of craftsmanship with precision digital technology in a unique and attractive package. The goal in creating this collection was to marry form and function in an upscale and highly designed product. As far as we’re concerned, it worked.

The collection consists of three watches, Elementum Aqua, Elementum Terra and Elementum Ventus, specifically designed for diving, mountaineering and sailing. Their Latin names directly translate to water, earth and wind, which are the three elements that surround the activities Suunto Elementum is inspired by and designed to help navigate through.

Noticing an increased interest and demand for stylish but functional premium sports watches, Suunto developed the Elementum Collection to meet the needs of three specific types of people.

 OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum
Elementum Aqua (on stainless steel bracelet)

The Aqua detects when the user enters the water and starts all the functions and measurements for a dive, such as depth, maximum depth, dive time, surface time and water temperature.

Terra+Black+Leather OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum
Elementum Terra (on leather strap)

The Terra is equipped to help its wearer survive in the outdoors, such as an altimeter for altitude measurement, barometer for easy prediction of weather changes and compass for navigation.

The Ventus is a highly sophisticated yet interestingly elegant sailing timepiece with features that allow for predictions of upcoming weather, an advanced compass for navigation and a sailing timer for the timing race starts.

After reviewing the three models – each available with a variety of finishes and straps – we chose Ventus as the test model. Its association with sailing and the hefty leather strap made it a good match with OTC’s sense of style.

Ventus+Brown+Leather+Profile OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum
Elementum Ventu (on leather strap)

Once the watch arrived, it was clear to us that Suunto was moving in a very premium direction. The outer box’s gallery drop front and inner box’s solid feel and clean finish all foretold that something different was going on.

The first thing we noticed about the watch was that while it is a solid 45mm across and sat quite high on the wrist, it weighed almost nothing. The face is a completely seamless crystal (negative display) and all functions are controlled by the pushers at three and four o-clock and the knob at two o-clock.

The Ventus is a sharp looking watch. Most people who commented on it said that it’s an interesting (in a good way) combination of new and old, modern and functional.

What we really like though, is the leather strap. The thick tan hide nicely counterpoints the case’s brushed stainless steel case and signed buckle. First time on the wrist and it felt moulded in place and the white top stitching really compliments the overall feel.

Technically speaking the functions are simple and strait forward – once you figure out which feature is controlled by which pusher. The barometric pressure graph is very useful (and cool) and the backlighting is, as my nephew would say, “wicked bright.”

Brand wise, Suunto has handled everything in-house, which is very admirable. The watches and the campaign’s approach both reflect this more personal philosophy. Each watch in the collection has its own brand ambassador. Ventus’ is Finnish sailing champion and Olympian Thomas Johanson. Check out his Suunto video HERE.

OTC happily recommends the Suunto Ventus as a cool yet classic tool watch with a modern flair. It’s functional, stylish, has a killer strap and the impressive pedigree of North Sea testing. Please note that it’s not a suit watch; it’s a dressy casual watch that can hit the seas (or just the mall) without skipping a beat.

Suunto Elementum is available in the USA, Sweden and Italy. It will be available this fall in Finland, Argentina, Greece, Japan and Singapore. MSRP is approximately $1,000.

Tagged with:
 

Dunning Sportswear: Modern Classics

Woven+trio Dunning Sportswear: Modern ClassicsHere at Off The Cuff, we are always happy to promote a great brand that most people have never heard about. With that, please meet Dunning Sportswear.

Apparently designer Ralph Dunning is a fan of OTC. A Toronto native and lifelong athlete, Ralph Dunning draws inspiration from his passions for sport, music, fashion and modern city and surf cultures. An IRONMAN competitor, marathoner and endurance cyclist, Dunning first entered the clothing market in the 1990s with his Rip n’ Hammer line of premium technical clothing for triathletes and cyclists.

Dunning has also designed apparel collections for some of the world’s leading sports brands, including Saucony, GT Cycles and Cervelo. So when he decided to develop a clothing line for everyday casual wear, he opted to go for a straightforward classic look.

But this preppy inspired brand is built for function. Rendered in a proprietary cotton/Coolmax blend, his clothes are both comfortable and quite sharp. Dunning Sportswear contacted OTC because they felt that our readers would appreciate an unbiased review of this “cool” brand.

Dunning’s clothes may look a bit like what you already wear, but the construction and overall brand quality are some of the best I’ve come across in a long time. But what really makes the shirts and shorts I tested stand out from the crowd is the Coolmax blended cotton fabrics.

If I did not know they were made from performance material, I never would have even guessed it. The fabric’s wicking quality kept me cool and comfortable on some darn hot and humid days.

shorts+group Dunning Sportswear: Modern Classics

The flat front khaki shorts are now my favorite, be it sweating in the garden or heading off to the store to pick up the latest issue of Monocle.
In fact, I’m wearing them right now. After nearly a month of continuous use and abuse they look great and have stood up to all manner of maltreatment.

The gingham sport shirts are winners too. Also cotton/Coolmax blends, these “Performance Woven” button down shirts were designed in classic patterns and an array of traditional preppy colors. Actually, they are the perfect casual dress shirts for me because of the well tailored cut and light, wrinkle-free, moisture-wicking fabric.

image004 Dunning Sportswear: Modern Classics

Their classically styled polo shirts are well built and have a nice dressy feel that can easily handle the tennis court or a day out sailing.

Overall, Dunning Sportswear is a great brand that blends a classic New England functionality with hi-tech athletic materials. And you’d never know – which is what I like the best.

So what’s the problem? It’s still kind of hard to come by. Sold through country club pro shops and a limited number of retailers, the web is still your best shot. Visit Dunning’s online store to learn more.

Tagged with: