While OTC focuses primarily on the physical side of style and culture – clothing, bags, shoes, ties, watches, etc. – equally if not more important is one’s intellect.

Being aware and literate about what’s going on in the world is, frankly, far more vital than what shirt you’re wearing. There are many, many pretty faces out there with nothing worthwhile to say; do not be another one.

Can you talk about world affairs, the environment, or trends in design? Do you have an opinion on art or literature? If you are American, do you actually understand what’s going on in other parts of the world? Sure, you like clothing, but do you appreciate changes affecting the business side of Savile Row or the environmental impact of mass market fashion retailers?

What do you know about global culture; craft vs. commodity?

When it comes to getting useful information about the big picture of global culture and style, Monocle is simply outstanding.

I have written about and referenced Monocle before, but I feel this remarkable multimedia publication deserves some additional attention.

The Monocle shop

What is Monocle? First, it’s a remarkable magazine. Each substantial issue is divided into sections covering affairs, business, culture, design, and edits. It’s packed with news, policy, insights, reviews, trends, and products from across the globe. As an American, I greatly appreciate the fact that the U.S. is treated as just another country, which helps provide a truly global feel to the magazine.

In fact, I was once chatting with New York clothier Jay Kos, a successful menswear entrepreneur and owner of his eponymous Fifth Avenue shop, and he told me that Monocle was about the only news source he bothers with.

Second, Monocle is a fully functional mixed media website. It’s like the magazine gone digital. Print articles from recent issues come to life online in video segments narrated by the story’s authors. Those with a subscription can access additional material, videos and news.

Monocle’s website

Third, Monocle is a brand. In addition to the magazine, lovely enough to stack on your coffee table by the way, and the website, Monocle has a collection of branded products.

Elegantly functional things are offered, many created specially for Monolce; from bags to furniture, Skeppshult V-Bikes to Valextra notebooks. They can be purchased through the website, the magazine or by visiting Monocle’s small pop-up stores located in Marylebone (London), Los Angeles and, shortly, Palma de Mallorca.

Tyler doing Monocle Weekly

I’ve also become a big fan of the Monocle Weekly, a downloadable podcast akin to an NPR culture/news/interview radio show. Great for the Metro ride into work.

I’ll leave you with founder and Editor-in-chief Brule’s own description of this remarkable venture:

With a keen focus, strong reporting, sharp wit and more classic approach to design, we’ve dubbed our venture Monocle….Focused on informing and entertaining an international audience of disillusioned readers, listeners and viewers, it is our intention to create a community of the most interested and interesting people in the world.

As you may recall, in my review of the annual 2008 edition, I mentioned that Esquire was going to franchise the Big Black Book brand and start seasonal versions. Well, that time has come.

So, if you just can’t wait to pick up your copy from the local news stand, go HERE…

Also, you may have noticed that my posts have been a tad sparse recently – though hopefully as witty and interesting as ever. Things have been very busy at casa de OTC and my writing time limited. As I make an effort to always provide you with something worth reading (hopefully), I have not been posting filler just so something new is up. That’s just a waste of your time. Interestingly, the numbers have actually remained fairly constant, so thank you all for checking in and prowling the archives!

Behind the scenes, OTC has not been idle and there are a number of great features in the pipeline, including a series of posts documenting my first fully custom suit, by way of VM Clothiers.

Proprietor Vishal Mirpuri is a young guy on the move who is changing the face of custom tailoring in buttoned up Washington. Based in D.C. but with a dedicated workshop in Hong Kong, you get the best of both worlds; a fresh, modern take on tailored clothing and the quality, efficiency and value of family with 40 years in the tailoring business. We’ll be tracking the suit from first measurements to final fitting.

With the global economy continuing its free fall, OTC will also be examining the options for defining your personal brand, how best to choose and care for your wardrobe and what to look for in accessories and other personal investments.

Yes, I said investments. Now more than ever, you need to think about what image you want to present to the world; who are you and what do you value? These are long-term decisions and need to be well though-out ones too. Therefore, as we move into another volatile year, OTC is going to be focusing on important issues like value, quality, purpose and staying power. More than catchy terms, these are decisions which hit you directly in the wallet.

Which brands have what you need? What products and services make sense when money is tight? How can you assemble a top-notch wardrobe that blends timeless classics with modern sensibilities? These are the kinds of questions I’m hearing more and more and they are very good questions to be asking.

Quite often I have built articles directly from reader requests and they usually become some of the most read. This makes sense of course – because they are the issues on your mind right now. Moving forward, OTC will be here to help answer them.

So, if you ever have a problem or a question,ask; because chances are you aren’t the only thinking about it. You can always reach OTC at OffTheCuffDC@comcast.net.

The title was launched in September 2005 into a crowded field of men’s titles, and aimed to set itself apart by catering to an older, more affluent audience than competitors like GQ and Details, which are also published by Condé Nast, as is DNR. Men’s Vogue carried the imprimatur of editorial director Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue, who had tapped protégé Jay Fielden as editor-in-chief. He will continue to edit the Men’s Vogue supplement, according to Townsend.

The title had upped its frequency to 10 issues this year, and was set to raise its rate base to 400,000 at the beginning of next year, up from 350,000. However, ad pages were down 11 percent through November, to 588 pages, down from 662 in 2007, despite the title publishing two additional issues this year, according to Media Industry Newsletter. The move is part of Condé Nast’s across-the-board belt tightening as the current economic downturn significantly impacts the publishing industry.

I find this announcement particularly distressing because Men’s Vogue is my kind of magazine. Smart, insightful, stylish and elegant without ever being stuffy. This publication spoke to me as an adult with taste. While GQ and Details have their place, only Esquire can match Men’s Vogue’s ability to blend intelligence and fashion with such effortless skill. In my opinion, Men’s Vogue’s premeier issue is one of the single best menswear publications I’ve ever come accross. This is a real loss.

Men’s Vogue Premier Issue

Along with the brief but storied “M,” magazine, Men’s Vogue will stand as a testament to real style. Yes, it will stay alive as a seasonal supplement, but it’s not quite the same. In any event, I will not make the same mistake I did when M ceased production; this time, I’ll hold on to all my back issues of Men’s Vogue.

I wasn’t expecting it to be out yet and even Amazon indicates that it won’t ship until October 7, but there it was, piled up to the sky and ready to go. Apparently just issued, the store had stocked up on this seminal guide book for men, anticipating big demand. I am again very pleased with the nice mix of clothing, accessories, advice and stories the editors have been able to weave together.

This guide is a favorite of Off The Cuff because it is more than a product catalog – it is well, a guide. Sections like “Desktops,” pair collections of items – pens, watches, notebooks, and clothing – in way that helps the reader see how to choose and organize their personal possessions in a stylish and coherent way.

“The New Americans” profiles several of-the-moment designers who seem to have solid staying power, including Gilded Age, Engineered Garments and the exceptionally talented Michael Bastian. “Watches” focuses on materials in this issue – from carbon fibre to gold and several beautiful stainless steel options are highlighted.

Longer form pieces include an homage to Neapolitan tailoring, an examination of the great outdoors and the role of the briefcase in our allegedly paperless world. The four main “Portfolios” cover mastering the art of the tuxedo, pared down international style, classic chunky anglophile-inspired woolens and a spread on explorer Sam Branson, the apparently well grounded son of super-entrepreneur Sir Richard Branson.

The educationally oriented “Information” section focuses on advice ranging from how to design the perfect business card to the pairing of patterned suit coats and shirts. Also tackled – caring for your clothing (in particular is a great guide to keeping dress shirts looking fresh and new), how to make small talk, managing office politics and characteristics of the perfect weekend bag.

There is much more than I have highlighted here and this year’s Big Black Book really lives up to it’s self-titled moniker of “The Style Guide of Successful Men.” Not that previous year’s did not, but this particular one is a font of practical and entertaining information.

Just remember, it’s not about recreating exactly what you see within it’s covers, but taking inspiration from the editors’ ideas and spreads and making them your own. You will have even more opportunity to do so as Esquire is planing to produce a Spring edition of the BBB that should hit the stands in early March 2009.

To me, this is a fascinating issue because it ties together the multiple effects of social stratification, class change, privilege and the common leveler of the retail market.

“Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster” is a captivating analysis of this very subject. Not since Thorstein Veblen and his “Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions” has this topic be analyzed so thoroughly and frankly. In many ways, Deluxe leaves Veblen’s effort in the dust.

Tracing the path of what we now know as the luxury retail industry, author Dana Thomas takes her reader on a trip through history and around the world. She revisits groundbreaking craftsman like Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior as they give birth to the luxury business – fleshing them out as the early visionaries they were. Thomas, a fashion and style writer for publications like the Newsweek, the New York Times Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, and the Washington Post, has an incredible grasp of the subject matter.

Along with her exhaustive research, Thomas interviewed numerous fashion industry figures who give an insider’s perspective to the luxury industry, both before and after its mass market makeover. Notable are her discussions with and about Bernard Arnault, the ruthless CEO of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey (LVMH).

His transformation of several small companies once dedicated to an elite clientèle into a corporate behemoth focused on market saturation is both enlightening and saddening. Witty and authoritative, she brings the hazy and complex global network of manufacturers, designers, corporations and buyers into crisp focus.

Touching on manufactured trends like the seasonal “It Bag” and delving into global economies of scale and the impact of textile trade agreements, Thomas deftly explains how luxury became just another commodity product.

It is fascinating reading on an equally fascinating subject. You will never look at a “Made in Italy” label the same way again.

For it’s February issue, one of my favorite magazine, Monocle, analyzed the sartorial flair of the three Democratic front runners. The next issue tackles the Republican field.

Senator Barak Obama won out because of his natural grace and comfort with his own body. Well tailored suits and separates keep the senator looking both casually sharp and in command. Once can imagine that when out on the stump or in the midst of a debate, he is actually wearing his real clothes.

Senator John Edwards was more or less panned for the same reason I cited in a recent column, that he seems inauthentic. The man-of-the-people approach rings untrue because it probably is. He looks as though a pollster dressed him to look “authentic” or some such thing.

Senator Clinton’s wardrobe was equally criticized for being both somewhat pedestrian and conversely “pushy PTA” looking. Of course, as a female presidential candidate she is subject to the kind of fashion scrutiny that would send most men running for cover.

Regardless, Monocle is a good read. So pick up a copy or buy an online subscription that gives you access to Monocle’s remarkable site. I’m just glad to know I’m not the only one who is amazed at how contrived many of our leading candidates come across.

That being said, for my American readers I have one word: vote. I don’t care who you vote for, but vote in your primary and vote in the general election.

Regardless of how it arrived, rest assured that I read it cover to cover with an independent eye. After last year’s issue I was a little apprehensive. Could they do it again? Would lightning strike twice or would this year’s instalment reach the pinnacle of averageness like the second issue of Men’s Vogue (long since recovered of course; it’s a regular favorite of mine)?

I’m afraid that the 2007 issue of the Big Black Book does not meet my expectations.

It exceeds them.

OK, sorry for the cheesy run up, I couldn’t help it. I really was a little apprehensive as the first installment of this yearly tome was just so good. I can actually say that this one is better; not that last year’s had any real faults but this issue feels a bit more directed.

Overall Impression
Up front my verdict is pretty straight forward: buy it, read it, keep it.

You know when you get a new magazine and after leafing through the pages and reading the articles, you decide that most of it can be tossed? What do you do? You tear out the stuff you want and recycle the rest. If you’re like me you also organize and archive the pages you did keep for later reference – but that’s another story. Well, in the case of the 2007 BBB that’s not really the best approach because I did not find one uninteresting thing in there.

First off, they’re being cagey this year: it’s not actually black, it’s red. Second, at 207 pages it’s a bit longer than last year’s 186. Also, the general feel is much more along the lines of an actual guide as opposed to a magazine’s special edition. In fact, the cover’s design vaguely reminds me of a stripped down, modern Preppy Handbook. Maybe I just need some more coffee.

There are a lot of advertisements, but I didn’t even notice most of them. It appears that the ad sales staff made a point of telling their clients that the readers of the BBB want information, not just pretty pictures of cool stuff. Many of the ads actually included specs and useful information – very refreshing and helpful. As a result of this approach, I might actually look into some of them. It seems to work as Esquire noted a full third of last years’ BBB readers actually bought a product featured in the book.

Editorial
As I have said, last year’s edition was great; none the less, this year’s is better for a couple of reasons. With a good balance between short and longer form articles it’s easy read “The Incredible Shrinking Suit” on page 63 and quickly move on to “The Bespoke Life” on page 130. Both are well written and you defiantly feel a little smarter having looked them over.

The guide portion of the BBB falls into four areas: Maintenance, Formality, Informality, and Etiquette. As with last year, this section is contagious and printed on an untreated, industrial paper, giving it a practical field-manual feel. The four major photo spreads each follow a particular theme: classic hunting clothing; commuter style; the clean, modern “less-is-more” aesthetic; and the influence military gear has on fashion.

Interspersed throughout the book are short photo essays, like “The Essentials” starting on page 32. I was particularly happy to see that my purchase of a Montblanc 149 about ten years ago was indeed a good investment (page 44); even adjusted for inflation that thing is expensive.

One last thought, a particular favorite of mine is “The Little Things: A field guide to personal effects,” starting on page 75. As a lover of detail and practical functionality when it comes to luxury goods, this collection of vignettes – the personal possessions of four fictional yet stylish men – is excellent. I find myself going back to it for inspiration and finding something new each time.

It’s not so much the actual items presented, but rather the implied personality of each guy that I find so interesting. It fits my belief that a man’s most personal possessions truly tells you who he is and what he values. Check out my recent post on the topic.

Final Words
What Esquire does better than most style magazines falls between the ears. It’s smart, not just fashion-y; when I go though a publication like the the Big Black Book I don’t get hit with only what’s in or what’s stylish or what I should want. I learn something about classic elegance and timeless style that fits seamlessly with the modern world.

As someone who tries to help men find their own style and appreciate the value of quality and personality, I want to thank the folks at Esquire. The hard work is appreciated, you did a great job.

The basic idea behind this publication, the first for a new magazine division of the venerable Evening Post Company, is a celebration of the sporting lifestyle and cultural heritage of the “21st Century Southern America.”

With a feeling somewhere along the lines of Town & Country, it is more garden than gun. The fall issue offers a hunt-country fashion spread at the decidedly elegant Greenbrier, an intriguing article on Louisiana marsh fishing, a travelogue of Memphis, TN – including the Peabody Hotel’s famous duck walk – and my favorite, a spread on the opening day of the famed Belle Meade hunt. It’s not a traditional hunt by the way, no foxes are harmed. Read about a garden tour on Roanoke Island, the living legends of jazz, and an interview with Andrea Nutt, a talented young classical painter now living in Puerto Rico.

Though not a “style” magazine per se, it is very much a lifestyle magazine devoted to the romantic hunt clubby-ness of the South. In many ways I felt I was reading about the English landed gentry, just a more humid climate. But with ads touting secluded custom built estates, complete with yacht clubs and golf courses, Hickory Chair furniture and upscale hunt country outfitters, this is magazine is clearly targeted to the aspirational estate owner who likes sporting clays.

Overall, it’s an interesting magazine that I will keep an eye on; not too hard as the photography and layout are extremely well done. You know, I’m suddenly in the mood to visit Charleston again.

David Granger, Esquire’s editor, and Sophia Stuart, Mobile Director at Hearst Digital Media, have combed through 75 years of archives to pull out useful, bite size nuggets of information for the sartorially curious. You’ll find important things like where to find the country’s best bars, useful things like the 70 greatest sentences, and my favorite, the new laws of fashion.

Esquire Mobile Header

Here you’ll find the nuts-and-bolts of good advice, like, “A man should not shop for more clothes, he should shop for better ones;” and “Buy the suit that fits, not the one you wish you could fit into.”

You can also download very cool vintage wallpapers for your screen, contact the Esquire crew directly to give them an update on what the Hawk ‘n’ Dove has on tap, and even search this mini mobile website.

Most importantly though, the site is easy to navigate, has a clean layout, and its easy to read on a small screen. Overall, the Esquire folks have done a great job shrinking a whole lot of information into a tight space that’s worth checking in on regularly.

Where Monocle is a densely packed international wrap-up covering everything from geopolitics to where to find great socks, Antenna is more targeted on the emerging elements of style. It’s actually a little easier to say what Antenna is not: it’s not a catalog, it’s not a celebrity filled vanity mag, and it’s not what’s-hot-right-now-shill. Here is how they describe themselves:

“Antenna is the first mainstream magazine to target individuals who are on a constant quest for the newest and coolest products on the horizon. And it does so without using celebrities, models, concept shoots, service stories and whatever else we deem superfluous to our mission: to become a guidebook, allowing readers to navigate the most extensive collection of products ever compiled in a single publication, while championing the people who create, sell and collect them—all in one comprehensive, artful, elegant and innovative format. Featuring everything from dress shirts and cellphones to jeans and graphic T’s, Antenna is considered to be a non-disposable magazine in a disposable world. And you cannot ask for more than that.”

Organized alphabetically, it is filled with products ranging from Bluetooth phones to $3,000 Bell & Ross watches. Selling stuff isn’t the point here; style, design, and intrinsic value is. While there is a definite urban, even skater feel to their product choices, what’s captivating is how everything is presented without hype or attitude. No fashion vanity here, the products are the stars. This issue has a sneaker theme, not something I normally reach for; but you know,I found it fascinating.

From the preview issue

The functionally indexed quality of Antenna is offset with several in-depth interviews of designers and influencers who actually have something interesting to talk about, like Jeff Ng, founder of Staple Design.

If they can keep it fresh, irreverent, and informative for the holiday issue, I’ll make space on my book shelf for future volumes. Priced at $7.95, it’s not really an impulse buy, but I don’t think they want to be. Setting up a mail subscription will drop your cost to $4.00 per issue (Summer, Spring, Fall, Holiday). For more content and subscription information, check out the website.