OTC Reading List: Monocle

cover24 OTC Reading List: MonocleAs an avid reader and hardcore information junkie, I’m always on the lookout for the perfect publication; the one which combines news on culture, style, design, architecture, clothing, art, politics, and global affairs.

While OTC focuses primarily on the physical side of style and culture – clothing, bags, shoes, ties, watches, etc. – equally if not more important is one’s intellect.

Being aware and literate about what’s going on in the world is, frankly, far more vital than what shirt you’re wearing. There are many, many pretty faces out there with nothing worthwhile to say; do not be another one.

Can you talk about world affairs, the environment, or trends in design? Do you have an opinion on art or literature? If you are American, do you actually understand what’s going on in other parts of the world? Sure, you like clothing, but do you appreciate changes affecting the business side of Savile Row or the environmental impact of mass market fashion retailers?

What do you know about global culture; craft vs. commodity?

When it comes to getting useful information about the big picture of global culture and style, Monocle is simply outstanding.

I have written about and referenced Monocle before, but I feel this remarkable multimedia publication deserves some additional attention.

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The Monocle shop

What is Monocle? First, it’s a remarkable magazine. Each substantial issue is divided into sections covering affairs, business, culture, design, and edits. It’s packed with news, policy, insights, reviews, trends, and products from across the globe. As an American, I greatly appreciate the fact that the U.S. is treated as just another country, which helps provide a truly global feel to the magazine.

In fact, I was once chatting with New York clothier Jay Kos, a successful menswear entrepreneur and owner of his eponymous Fifth Avenue shop, and he told me that Monocle was about the only news source he bothers with.

Second, Monocle is a fully functional mixed media website. It’s like the magazine gone digital. Print articles from recent issues come to life online in video segments narrated by the story’s authors. Those with a subscription can access additional material, videos and news.

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Monocle’s website

Third, Monocle is a brand. In addition to the magazine, lovely enough to stack on your coffee table by the way, and the website, Monocle has a collection of branded products.

Elegantly functional things are offered, many created specially for Monolce; from bags to furniture, Skeppshult V-Bikes to Valextra notebooks. They can be purchased through the website, the magazine or by visiting Monocle’s small pop-up stores located in Marylebone (London), Los Angeles and, shortly, Palma de Mallorca.

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Tyler doing Monocle Weekly

I’ve also become a big fan of the Monocle Weekly, a downloadable podcast akin to an NPR culture/news/interview radio show. Great for the Metro ride into work.

I’ll leave you with founder and Editor-in-chief Brule’s own description of this remarkable venture:

With a keen focus, strong reporting, sharp wit and more classic approach to design, we’ve dubbed our venture Monocle….Focused on informing and entertaining an international audience of disillusioned readers, listeners and viewers, it is our intention to create a community of the most interested and interesting people in the world.

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BBB+2009 Esquires Spring Big Black Book & OTC UpdatesThanks to a watchful OTC reader, I can let you know that a pre-order site for Esquire’s new 2009 Big Black Book, Spring edition, is up and running.

As you may recall, in my review of the annual 2008 edition, I mentioned that Esquire was going to franchise the Big Black Book brand and start seasonal versions. Well, that time has come.

So, if you just can’t wait to pick up your copy from the local news stand, go HERE

Also, you may have noticed that my posts have been a tad sparse recently – though hopefully as witty and interesting as ever. Things have been very busy at casa de OTC and my writing time limited. As I make an effort to always provide you with something worth reading (hopefully), I have not been posting filler just so something new is up. That’s just a waste of your time. Interestingly, the numbers have actually remained fairly constant, so thank you all for checking in and prowling the archives!

Behind the scenes, OTC has not been idle and there are a number of great features in the pipeline, including a series of posts documenting my first fully custom suit, by way of VM Clothiers.

Proprietor Vishal Mirpuri is a young guy on the move who is changing the face of custom tailoring in buttoned up Washington. Based in D.C. but with a dedicated workshop in Hong Kong, you get the best of both worlds; a fresh, modern take on tailored clothing and the quality, efficiency and value of family with 40 years in the tailoring business. We’ll be tracking the suit from first measurements to final fitting.

With the global economy continuing its free fall, OTC will also be examining the options for defining your personal brand, how best to choose and care for your wardrobe and what to look for in accessories and other personal investments.

Yes, I said investments. Now more than ever, you need to think about what image you want to present to the world; who are you and what do you value? These are long-term decisions and need to be well though-out ones too. Therefore, as we move into another volatile year, OTC is going to be focusing on important issues like value, quality, purpose and staying power. More than catchy terms, these are decisions which hit you directly in the wallet.

Which brands have what you need? What products and services make sense when money is tight? How can you assemble a top-notch wardrobe that blends timeless classics with modern sensibilities? These are the kinds of questions I’m hearing more and more and they are very good questions to be asking.

Quite often I have built articles directly from reader requests and they usually become some of the most read. This makes sense of course – because they are the issues on your mind right now. Moving forward, OTC will be here to help answer them.

So, if you ever have a problem or a question,ask; because chances are you aren’t the only thinking about it. You can always reach OTC at OffTheCuffDC@comcast.net.

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BREAKING NEWS: Men’s Vogue To Shut Doors

Men%27s+Vogue+10.2008 BREAKING NEWS: Mens Vogue To Shut DoorsSad News: It was announced today that Men’s Vogue is closing shop as a stand-alone title, and will instead become a seasonal supplement to Vogue. The title will be published in the spring and fall of 2009, according to Charles H. Townsend, president and CEO of Condé Nast Publications. The December/January issue will be the last issue sent to Men’s Vogue subscribers and sold on newsstands.

The title was launched in September 2005 into a crowded field of men’s titles, and aimed to set itself apart by catering to an older, more affluent audience than competitors like GQ and Details, which are also published by Condé Nast, as is DNR. Men’s Vogue carried the imprimatur of editorial director Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue, who had tapped protégé Jay Fielden as editor-in-chief. He will continue to edit the Men’s Vogue supplement, according to Townsend.

The title had upped its frequency to 10 issues this year, and was set to raise its rate base to 400,000 at the beginning of next year, up from 350,000. However, ad pages were down 11 percent through November, to 588 pages, down from 662 in 2007, despite the title publishing two additional issues this year, according to Media Industry Newsletter. The move is part of Condé Nast’s across-the-board belt tightening as the current economic downturn significantly impacts the publishing industry.

I find this announcement particularly distressing because Men’s Vogue is my kind of magazine. Smart, insightful, stylish and elegant without ever being stuffy. This publication spoke to me as an adult with taste. While GQ and Details have their place, only Esquire can match Men’s Vogue’s ability to blend intelligence and fashion with such effortless skill. In my opinion, Men’s Vogue’s premeier issue is one of the single best menswear publications I’ve ever come accross. This is a real loss.

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Men’s Vogue Premier Issue

Along with the brief but storied “M,” magazine, Men’s Vogue will stand as a testament to real style. Yes, it will stay alive as a seasonal supplement, but it’s not quite the same. In any event, I will not make the same mistake I did when M ceased production; this time, I’ll hold on to all my back issues of Men’s Vogue.

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Big+Black+Book+2008 NEW FLASH: 2008 Esquire Big Black Book is outI am in New York for some meetings right now and lo an behold, at the local Border’s what did I see but the new Big Black Book from Esquire!

I wasn’t expecting it to be out yet and even Amazon indicates that it won’t ship until October 7, but there it was, piled up to the sky and ready to go. Apparently just issued, the store had stocked up on this seminal guide book for men, anticipating big demand. I am again very pleased with the nice mix of clothing, accessories, advice and stories the editors have been able to weave together.

This guide is a favorite of Off The Cuff because it is more than a product catalog – it is well, a guide. Sections like “Desktops,” pair collections of items – pens, watches, notebooks, and clothing – in way that helps the reader see how to choose and organize their personal possessions in a stylish and coherent way.

“The New Americans” profiles several of-the-moment designers who seem to have solid staying power, including Gilded Age, Engineered Garments and the exceptionally talented Michael Bastian. “Watches” focuses on materials in this issue – from carbon fibre to gold and several beautiful stainless steel options are highlighted.

Longer form pieces include an homage to Neapolitan tailoring, an examination of the great outdoors and the role of the briefcase in our allegedly paperless world. The four main “Portfolios” cover mastering the art of the tuxedo, pared down international style, classic chunky anglophile-inspired woolens and a spread on explorer Sam Branson, the apparently well grounded son of super-entrepreneur Sir Richard Branson.

The educationally oriented “Information” section focuses on advice ranging from how to design the perfect business card to the pairing of patterned suit coats and shirts. Also tackled – caring for your clothing (in particular is a great guide to keeping dress shirts looking fresh and new), how to make small talk, managing office politics and characteristics of the perfect weekend bag.

There is much more than I have highlighted here and this year’s Big Black Book really lives up to it’s self-titled moniker of “The Style Guide of Successful Men.” Not that previous year’s did not, but this particular one is a font of practical and entertaining information.

Just remember, it’s not about recreating exactly what you see within it’s covers, but taking inspiration from the editors’ ideas and spreads and making them your own. You will have even more opportunity to do so as Esquire is planing to produce a Spring edition of the BBB that should hit the stands in early March 2009.

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DeluxeBookCover Bedside Reading   Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its LusterI wrote recently about how luxury has been downtrodden over the years, and how our own quest to live the good life has fueled the demand for cheap opulence.

To me, this is a fascinating issue because it ties together the multiple effects of social stratification, class change, privilege and the common leveler of the retail market.

Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster” is a captivating analysis of this very subject. Not since Thorstein Veblen and his “Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions” has this topic be analyzed so thoroughly and frankly. In many ways, Deluxe leaves Veblen’s effort in the dust.

Tracing the path of what we now know as the luxury retail industry, author Dana Thomas takes her reader on a trip through history and around the world. She revisits groundbreaking craftsman like Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior as they give birth to the luxury business – fleshing them out as the early visionaries they were. Thomas, a fashion and style writer for publications like the Newsweek, the New York Times Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, and the Washington Post, has an incredible grasp of the subject matter.

Along with her exhaustive research, Thomas interviewed numerous fashion industry figures who give an insider’s perspective to the luxury industry, both before and after its mass market makeover. Notable are her discussions with and about Bernard Arnault, the ruthless CEO of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey (LVMH).

His transformation of several small companies once dedicated to an elite clientèle into a corporate behemoth focused on market saturation is both enlightening and saddening. Witty and authoritative, she brings the hazy and complex global network of manufacturers, designers, corporations and buyers into crisp focus.

Touching on manufactured trends like the seasonal “It Bag” and delving into global economies of scale and the impact of textile trade agreements, Thomas deftly explains how luxury became just another commodity product.

It is fascinating reading on an equally fascinating subject. You will never look at a “Made in Italy” label the same way again.

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