Off the Cuff » Drakes London

The Spring/Summer Scarf

OTC — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 05:19:00 +0000

So, is the summer scarf fashion or fad?

I’ll try a third option and let’s call it stylish. When I first noticed the trend of men sporting gauzy, lightweight scarves last year, my initial reaction was something to the effect of, “oh, please…”

If it’s warm outside that automatically makes the use of any kind of scarf that of a fashion accessory. And that, my friends, is a recipe for manly disaster.

Except that I’ve actually tried it out and, well, I kind of like it.

When it comes to styles that appear even slightly effeminate, like lightweight scarves in warm weather, American men tend to reflexively run the other way. European guys seem to make such accessories look annoyingly cool and natural.

Though not implying that I hang out at chic street cafes and tool around DC in an Aston Martin Vanquish, I do indeed have two summer scarves, both from Drakes-London, one of the forces promoting this look.

Since Drakes had actually given me my scarves for free I felt an obligation to man up and try them out, and so I did. While obviously impractical for high summer – though lightweight they really do retain heat quite well – for a cool or breezy evening, they are very nice.

And let me just point out that if Michael Drake thinks summer scarves are cool, manly and totally masculine, you best reconsider your opposition. Most of the brand names you encounter on an average trip to your clothier of choice think Michael is about the most stylish guy to tie a tie.

The two scarves pictured in this post, currently available at Drakes-London, are particularly classic, versatile and compatible.

Worn lightly wrapped around the neck or folded and looped in a European fashion, the summer scarf takes on the look of something picked up in Marrakesh or Paris. It has a certain exotic feel to it that is more world traveler than fashion victim.

That said, this kind of nonchalant elegance is a delicate balance. Summer scarves need to have a rich but muted coloring to them, and a classic but unfussy pattern; masculine yet relaxed and un-stuffy. Drakes’ scarves in particular are feather light, extremely malleable and made from some exceptional fabrics.

Washed Linen Blend Madras

Another point, and frankly this is more important, is to not care what anyone else thinks. This is a leap of faith for a lot of men and ultimately if it’s not for you then don’t wear it. It’s a personal look that comes nowhere near American Ivy League, but it is nonetheless a classic, classy look. My wife actually likes the look and, frankly, that surprised me.

But when paired with a light sport coat or blazer it can feel quite natural. In my case, with worn-in khakis and a white oxford, my outfit had that nice thrown together, been-around-the-world look to it.

OTC Recommends: Drakes’ Untipped Ties

OTC — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:28:00 +0000

A favorite friend of Off The Cuff, we like to make a statement with Drakes London. From scarves to ties, whether at work, in business or at a special event Drakes is the embodiment of English style. With a selection excellent handmade ties ranging from knitted to ancient madder, Drakes offers you something for every occasion.

Founded in 1977, Drakes has established itself as one of the leading purveyors of English handmade ties crafted using only the highest quality materials and dyes. Drakes ties are made entirely by hand in the heart of London, drawing on the company’s rich artisan heritage of traditional tie making, spanning over 30 years. In sharp Indian silk, textured knitted styles or old-school stripes, a Drakes tie makes a mark of sartorial distinction.

To complete the look of stylish authority, Michael Drake, founder and designer, recommends the four-in-hand or Half Windsor knots. Michael likes to uphold Oscar Wilde’s words of wisdom that “a well tied tie is the first serious step in Iife.”

Just two of the Spring colors

New this season, Drakes launches the ‘untipped tie’, a more casual and lightweight spring and summer version. With a slim 7cm width, the new style ties are made from exquisite raw handwoven Indian silk or woven Shantung silk; the blade and tail are left untipped and completed with a hand-rolled finish.

Available in a beautiful selection of Indian Colonial ground colors of oxblood, bottle green, sky blue, tussah brown and Jaipur pink, the untipped ties make the perfect summer accessory for stylish men’s attire for any occasion.

My Drakes untipped tie roving the office

Drakes was kind enough to send me one and I have to say, though skeptical at first, I am a convert. I’m wearing it right now and though reminiscent of a thin, “man in the gray flannel suit” era piece of neck wear, this tie is elegantly eclectic.

OTC Recommends: Drakes London

OTC — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:06:00 +0000

Those of you who are fans of the outstanding magazine Monocle (a global briefing on style/politics/culture/urban planning) are probably familiar with Drakes London. Monocle’s founding editor-in-chief, Tyler Brule, devoted a recent editor’s page to this remarkable neck wear firm. No mere affectation, the “London” portion of the name is very much a badge of honor. Their ties are, in fact, handmade in London.

Based in Clerkenwell, the Drakes workshop is a wonderful example of “slow fashion.” Outsourcing and high speed production might get ties out the door and on the sales shelf faster and more cheaply, but that will never happen because Drakes takes particular pride in its British heritage and craftsmen quality. Such dedication to their craft is a matter of principle and that alone makes it worthy of a formal OTC recommendation.

Neckties are an interesting thing; they are functionless beyond adornment yet prized for their ability to convey status ranging from revered gravitas to comical idiocy. Most holiday theme ties fall into the latter category, whether deliberately so or not. And while some men view choosing a necktie as another in a series of forced convention, many instead see it as an opportunity to telegraph values, quality, style, personality and craftsmanship. In the case of some high-end brands like Hermes, that message tends to be blunt: “this thing is expensive and the best, and so am I.”

Drakes takes a different approach. A Drakes London tie can be a bit anonymous, in the sense that on the surface it is elegant and exceptionally finished but not “known”. It looks good without announcing its maker, and that’s a nice quality because the tie is noticed over the brand. Their ties are substantial yet soft, well proportioned and timeless in design.

Drakes ties can be found in conservative clothing haunts like Knize in Vienna (which, as the Drakes website points out, is known to be more conservative than the Catholic Church) and cutting edge clothiers such as Comme des Garcons. Here in Washington, D.C., they are carries by William Fox & Co., a true haberdashery. Being somewhat busy these days, I simply hopped on the internet and had one shipped right to me.

My particular Drakes London tie is pictured below – as it arrived from overseas, the excellent packaging and presentation and as it was recently worn to the office.

Just arrived

Hand wrapped in tissue

Off to work

Though on the narrower side, its shape is classic and works well with a variety of suit styles. Knowing that I was wearing something lovingly crafted by an actual person in an actual workshop is a refreshing feeling. Drakes ties are not fast fashion and they are not meant to have a “season,” but rather a lifetime.

On the first day I wore my new neck wear, I received numerous unsolicited compliments from both men and women. The men tended to like the tie’s construction and balanced proportions while the women all loved the quality of the silk and its color combination.

All of these attributes speak to the effort and thought that go into Drakes ties – and that’s a good thing because they are not inexpensive. Of course handmade and hand finished quality is going to cost you, but if you are looking to add one good tie to your wardrobe this one is worth the expense.

In addition to ties, Drakes makes a variety of other products including pocket squares, scarves, shirting, belts, and hosiery. The images above are from Drakes’ Spring/Summer 2009 Look Book.

Visit their website at www.Drakes-London.com.