Cultural | Off the Cuff

Capital Investments (or Dressing for a Recession)

On October 21, 2008, By OTC

I recently read an interesting article that noted even in these challenging financial times, the sales of high end handbags – timeless and iconic styles rendered in exotic skins like crocodile – are in fact quite strong and by some accounts, growing.

Buying Long
According to industry analysts – and fairly clear to most people with a passing interest in sociology and economics – the women buying these expensive, sometimes very expensive, bags are making very deliberate long-term investments. The very opposite of the “It Bag,” these classically shaped and handcrafted bags bespeak luxury and class, often without a hint of a logo or brand name. They will be in style for a very long time, if not indefinitely; and that is key. This kind of accessory buying is a clear signal that consumers, at least moneyed consumers, are eying their pocketbooks. The Wall Street Journal recently noted that wealthy consumers are still spending, but across the board are focusing more on classic and less ostentatious fashion.

When things get rough out there, people tend to look inward and seek the comforts of the familiar and the traditional. Think of the home nesting boom that followed the brutal attacks of 9/11. By focusing on objects, places and styles that remind us of a safe and happy time, individually or collectively, we often find a common reference point at which to start again.

The classics do just that.

Today, with the near collapse of the world’s financial markets we face a similar psychic trauma. The economic crisis currently whacking people’s savings accounts across the globe is also affecting how, when and if people shop. Since the liquidity of everyday folk like you and me is not what it was even a few days ago, the investments we make in clothing and accessories take on greater importance. No longer buying to pass the time, people are looking at each purchase and asking about its long term staying power.

Back to the Classics
For example, if tomorrow I were to walk into the local haberdashery, which do you think I would go for: an of the moment skinny suit, skinny tie and schoolboy high-water trousers, or a more timeless cut that will carry me through a few years in style?

Put another way, in times of crisis we look to solid and trustworthy archetypes. After mixed results, institutions like law firms and financial services companies were some of the first to pull back on casual workday attire and the current crisis in confidence has the trend toward professional workplace dress accelerating.

When things are shaky in the world, the people handling our legal and financial security can’t just be competent, they better look competent too. We want to be reassured and comfortable with those who are supposed to serve or look after us – we need to see it.

In the simplest of terms, we want a suit. We want a briefcase and legal pad, a nice tie and polished shoes. These are the comforting images of stability, professionalism and classic, timeless style.

I suspect that we will be seeing a broader trend toward traditional work attire. It began about two years ago with the over-the-top preppy look driven by strong mid-market brands like J. Crew. That trend drew on the traditional New England seaside lifestyle, amped up with color and repp stripes as far as the eye could see.

Over the past few seasons, that trend has mellowed a bit and grown up, bringing with it more refined yet comfortable versions of traditional classics. Because classic styles and colors have the kind of staying power which can outlast most recessions, it is to those influences we turn when financial instability makes us reconsider the difference between “needs” and “wants.”

Retailers at every price point have indicated that menswear – meaning classic clothing with a capital “C” – will be a focal point for the coming seasons. Three piece suits – both gravitas inducing and functionally versatile – are starting to show up again. The blue blazer is getting a fresh round of appreciation as the go-to workhorse of many a wardrobe.

Basics, Basics, Basics
So, what does all this mean to you? I think, like the real estate mantra “location, location, location,” that the menswear mantra should be “basics, basics, basics.” Take the time and effort to build up the basics of a long-term wardrobe and it will pay you dividends.

The Grey Suit (in this case, Zegna)

So, before you rush off and drop a few weeks’ pay for some fancy Canali peak lapelled mauve and blue windowpane suit, make sure you already have at least one go-anywhere single breasted, two-button, notched lapel, medium grey suit in a nice three season weight – 120s is good. That suit will take you from first interview to cocktail hour with the CEO and back again.

And the rule of investing applies here too: always buy the best you can afford. Good clothing is an investment and should be treated as such. Continuing with the financial metaphor, the next step is asset allocation.

In addition to your core grey suit, get yourself a good stock of basic button down collar shirts in white and blue, maybe a pink one. The button down collar brings the shirt’s formality down just enough to allow it to work well with a suit or a blazer, tie or no tie.

Pinpoint dress shirts with barrel cuffs and point collars are a good choice too, though they are best suited for more formal outfits. Get a couple of French cuff shirts as a dressy option. Tailored khakis will cover most light business casual situations and a good pair of trim grey flannels will probably wear out before they are ever out of style.

Buying the best you can afford is never truer than when speaking about footwear. Good shoes will last you years, decades even. While there are several excellent style options when it comes to dress shoes, cap toes are a safe first choice. Formal enough for a suit when a heavier soled design is chosen, they can work equally as well with tailored separates. As an added benefit, black cap toes can be buffed to a high gloss and be paired with a dinner jacket. Add some wingtips, loafers and a pair of casual leather lug soled shoes to the closet and you have most of your footwear bases covered.

Cap Toe Oxford (Alden)

See what I mean? Basics; but basics that are well chosen, pull multiple duty and are of the best quality you can afford. With these essentials in your wardrobe you can ride out the swings of fortune secure in the knowledge that at least you will always be well turned out.

Having the classics taken care of also allows you the flexibility to play a bit with interesting ties or alternative shirts, unique cuff links, fancy socks or funky pocket squares. By investing in quality core clothing – and by no means was this an exhaustive list – you are building a stable base from which you can launch the occasional foray into trends and new styles while never losing your ability to show up looking sharp.

J. Press: As Classic as You Can Get

On August 5, 2008, By OTC

This is a true story: Back when he was running for president in 1980, George H. W. Bush (that’s George senior) was giving a speech at his alma mater, Yale University, and being heckled by some students. Someone yelled out that Bush was just another out of touch “Brooks Brothers Republican.” The president, apparently offended by that particular remark, promptly opened his suit coat to reveal its J. Press label.

I’ve always liked that story because it shows the deep dedication that some cultures naturally create. J. Press has that kind of culture. It is the quintessential New England prep-Yale Man-old money-Ivy League brand that the J. Crews and Ralph Laurens of the world want you to think they are. Not that there is anything wrong with either of those brands, I’m a fan of both. But J. Press is special because that’s where it all started. It’s the real deal.

New Haven Store at Christmas

Though not as well known commercially as Brooks Brothers – there are four brick and mortar J. Press stores to Brooks’ nearly 200 – J. Press is as classically preppy as you can get. In fact it quite literally invented the look. From the 1930s through the’50s, Press helped to cement the image of American preppy in the minds of college students everywhere. Known as the “Yale” or “Ivy League” look, it came to define the stylish New England intellectual or at least moneyed, layer of society that was the ruling class of the time. A hybrid of English prep school uniform and traditional American wear, the preppy look is timeless.

Jacobi Press in his New Haven Store

Founded in 1902 by Jacobi Press, in my hometown of New Haven, Connecticut, his namesake company has always adhered to a traditional some would say conservative, design philosophy. Much of their clothing is still American made and most of the shirts, ties, jackets and trousers are quite indistinguishable from from your father’s wardrobe. Mr. Press would probably feel right at home were he to walk into one of his stores today. In fact, the New Haven flagship has never moved from its original location.

Sartorial innovations like the sack suit and natural shoulder were invented here. The trademark three-button suit coat with the rolled lapel that visually converts it to a two-button is also a Press innovation. The sack suit itself, given global branding by Jack Kennedy as the definitive American suit, is also credited to J. Press.

Another Press signature is the lack of pleated trousers. All J. Press suits have flat front pants and always have; it’s the kind of consistency and tradition that make the company such an icon among its customers, generation after generation. Where Brooks Brothers’ shirts are famously voluminous, Press shirts are more trim and discreet. Their shirts also have, should you choose the option, a distinctive flapped pocket. that’s a little too quirky for me so I stick with the open pocket.

But don’t mistake that tradition and adherence to New England stylistic values for old-fashion stodginess. Though clearly smaller when compared to Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart or even Joseph A. Bank (once colloquially known as the poor man’s Brook Brothers), J. Press is a global player and major style influencer on the Trad front. To see just how popular and relevant J. Press is to the fashion world – at least for the true preppy market – you need to go a little ways past New Haven, all the way to Japan.

J. Press is huge in Japan. In 1974, the Press family sold the rights to license J. Press in Japan; becoming in fact the first American brand to be licensed in that country. To many a Japanese professional, the sartorial standard by which business and traditional dress is measured is J. Press. In fact, the company is today a wholly owned subsidiary of its Japanese parent, Onward Kashiyama Co., Ltd. Onward Kashiyama realized almost immediately that to preserve J. Press’ Ivy League cachet, it needed to stay out of the way. And that it has done. Walk into any Press store today and it feels like the company never expanded past the boundaries of Yale, Harvard or the other Ivy’s. Sure, the recently opened Madison Avenue store has a fresher, deco feel to it, but you still know it’s J. Press.

That is the magic of this unique and cherished brand; it knows what it is, who its customers are and what they value. You cannot simply buy that kind of loyaly or respect through advertising or tarted-up branding. It’s earned. J. Press has maintained its preppy core values and remains the truest expression of traditional New England Style. What else would you expect?

Tagged with: Brands • Cultural • Preppy Style • Resources • Retail/Stores

Menswear on the Move – Part 1

On July 19, 2008, By OTC

Things are going full steam ahead on the menswear front, particularly when it comes to New York City, the capital of fashion retail. High end labels are making serious investments and seem quite bullish on the future of men’s fashion.

Locals style icons like Ralph Lauren are putting money on the table with major brick-and-mortar expansions – in his case, turning the landmark Rhinelander Mansion into a men’s only store and building a new flagship across the street to house his women’s and home collations.

Other marquee names are expanding their New York footprint as well. In May, Canali opened its first Manhattan store just steps away from the New York Stock Exchange, and not far from Hermès’ 5,000-square-foot Wall Street outlet. That store, which opened in 2007, has a pronounced emphasis on the luxury firm’s men’s line. Canali is still in the early stages of executing an ambitious plan to develop a retail network across the United States. The New York location is the fourth of five Canali outlets in the U.S., including two in California and one in Florida. A Las Vegas outlet is scheduled to open later this year.

Giorgio Canali, president of Canali’s North American operations points to the financial district’s growing residential population – the store is housed in a former office building currently being converted into luxury condos – and its attraction to tourists as benefits of the location. “It was time to showcase the entire collection the way we want it,” Canali said, adding that the company continues to look at additional locations in the U.S. but has no definite plans. Other luxury brands, such as Tiffany and Thomas Pink, have also opened stores around Wall Street. These companies are all keenly aware that , when it comes Gotham, many of their better customers work on Wall Street, so these outlets are certainly well placed.

Hermès is making a major bet on its male customers too and is planning to open its first men’s-only store on Madison Avenue this fall. The 6,000-square-foot outlet will be located directly across the street from the company’s existing flagship at 691 Madison. The store will carry the company’s entire assortment of men’s merchandise ranging from ready-to-wear and accessories to lifestyle products. It will also include an entire floor dedicated to custom and made-to-measure merchandise. The store will be the first of its kind in the world.

The Wall Street store, noted above, showcases men’s ties inside the main entrance rather than the women’s accessories and handbags that are generally up front in its other units. That store also offers separate made-to-measure suit and shirt department as well as leather goods, watches, clothing and sportswear. Once the new men’s only branch is open in mid-town, Hermes will have a solid menswear presence in the city’s two key retail sectors. The company will launch a men’s ad campaign this fall as well; the brand has a solid men’s business, with menswear accounting for about 45% of sales.

This trend is not only contained to the States; French luxury label Lanvin is expanding its footprint in the men’s department with a refreshed retail presence in London. The new 1,600-square-foot Savile Row boutique will replace their former New Bond Street location. The store will showcase the French brand’s runway collection, classic “15 Faubourg” line and made-to-measure, a cornerstone of Lanvin’s menswear business since the 1920s.

“Men’s is showing a great dynamic,” said Lanvin president Paul Deneve to DNR, also outlining plans to renovate its Paris flagship men’s location on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. The 6,500-square-foot men’s store will house a VIP room for its bespoke clients on the third floor.

Of course, with prices starting around $5,000 for a basic bespoke suit, I don’t think I’ll be stopping by anytime soon.

Tagged with: Cultural • Style News • Trends

Horse Country Style

On June 2, 2008, By OTC

My wife and I recently took a little vacation to the heart of Virginia horse country.

Middleburg, ground zero for the moneyed portion of Virginia’s horsey set, is exactly what you expect an exclusive equestrian hamlet to be. With beautiful rolling green hills, dotted with heart-stopping estates and crisscrossed by white fencing, it easily evokes visions of Ralph Lauren ads.

We stayed at a wonderful country estate named the Goodstone Inn. I say estate because that’s really what it is. Set on 265 acres, the Inn is an award winning collection of residences, barns and stables spread across the property.

There are actually five buildings in which to stay, each with its own distinct theme. The original carriage house serves as the Inn’s living room and also houses their exceptional restaurant. The overall experience is a bit like those BBC shows about people staying out in the country with their incredibly wealthy landowning friends.

If you happen to be in the DC area, make sure to stop by for a few days; it is a different, more genteel and refreshing world. A warning though; you’ll quickly want to become the landed gentry.

In fact, visiting horse country often inspires one to dream of misty morning walks to the stable and a rambling family house stocked with giant oil paintings, antiques and sterling silver knick knacks. You might also feel a strong desire to ditch your current wardrobe for something more earthy – heavy on the leather and waxed cotton.

The storied anglophiliac horse culture of Maryland and Virginia can easily bring these feelings to the surface in almost anyone; it’s genuine and infectious. But before you go galloping off after crafty foxes (or, nowadays, pre laid artificial fox scent trails), you’ll need to look the part.

Dressing for this kind of an environment is a balancing act because good horse country style is really a blend of bespoke and stable boy. One of the best suggestions I heard for getting the right mix came from a local: think of Prince Charles, then put him in a pair of jeans. Not “7 For All Mankind” or anything like that, just plain old jeans.

And that really is the style guide I would suggest. Most of the Middleburg horsey set is very well off – horses are not really a poor man’s accessory – but they also revel in their earthy, down home English/American lifestyle.

When we visited, it was transition weather; warming days and cool evenings. Barbour jackets, sans liners, and leather paddock boots tended to form the core of many folk’s ensembles. Jeans or trim khakis, paired with simple merino or cotton sweaters or well tailored shirts, added to the dressy casual vibe.

Most of the people I saw had on clothing that looked nice but not necessarily new. To me this was very refreshing and appeased my New England aesthetic for worn-in classics over of-the-moment flash. Several of the women I saw around town were wearing jodhpurs and lovely riding boots; just back from an afternoon canter I guess. The men were more Ralph Lauren-ish, but in a practical way. They often looked as though their clothing was tossed on without thinking, but from a wardrobe that had only great clothes in it. This observation confirmed a long held belief that we all need a good hacking jacket in the closet.

It’s a good lesson for all of us; if you only choose clothing that is of high quality, great style and good material, your wardrobe should always yield a great outfit for any occasion.

As a last note, I recall one gentleman who had on a slightly muddy pink hacking jacket, white cotton oxford, old jeans and barn boots. Stepping out of a dark green Range Rover he looked elegant and natural, not at all contrived. I think that’s a personal goal most of us aspire to.

Tagged with: Cultural • Wardrobe/Clothing • Washington D.C.

Polo (the game) Comes to Manhattan

On May 27, 2008, By OTC

If you’re in New York on Saturday, May 31, make time for a rare taste of the Hamptons’ high flying lifestyle.

Gotham is playing host to the Veuve Clicquot Manhattan Polo Classic. This is the first time in more than 70 years that polo will be played in New York City.

The venue is historic Governors Island; a 172-acre landmark which is a mere 800 yards from Manhattan in New York Harbor. Admission is free and so are the ferry rides that run every 30 minutes. Now you too can use words like “chukkar” and say you’ve stomped the divots at half-time, and mean it.

Of particular interest to the stylish crowd, Ralph Lauren’s team, Blackwatch, will be playing against Asprey’s team. As many women reading this post may know, Blackwatch is lead by Nacho Figueras, the face of Polo Black. Nacho also happens to be the world’s top polo player.

Should you find yourself a little parched, feel free to visit the field-side Veuve Clicquot champagne bar. Picnics are encouraged and the match is scheduled to begin at 3:00 p.m. Pull out your Ralph Lauren lawn party attire and make a day of the Sport of Kings.

In addition to the polo match, May 31 will also mark the official opening of Governors Island for the summer season. Visitors can bike around the island and take tours of the National Historic District. There are also two art exhibits opening on the Island.

Tagged with: Brands • Cultural • Preppy Style • Style News

« Previous Entries Next Entries »

Capital Investments (or Dressing for a Recession)

J. Press: As Classic as You Can Get

Menswear on the Move – Part 1

Horse Country Style

Polo (the game) Comes to Manhattan

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