Off the Cuff » Bags

OTC Endorses: ETWAS Bags

OTC — Sat, 27 Aug 2011 03:30:00 +0000

This article was originally written in 2010 after Will Lisak, founder of ETWAS Bags first got in touch with OTC. It was in the form of a challenge.

Will commented on a post about Jack Bauer’s bag, from the television show “24,” stating that his bag was tougher than Jack’s. After getting to know more about Will and his company, ETWAS, German for “something,” we had little reason to doubt.

So, it was with satisfaction that we recently saw Will and his bags profiled in Issue 2 if the outstanding new menswear and lifestyle magazine, Port. It’s a wonderful examination of this prolific and highly principled guy, focusing on Will’s absolute commitment to long-term style and minimal impact.

Some brands talk about civic and social good, ETWAS smacks you across the face with it. More than that, Will backs it up all the way, as you will see below. And, by the way, these clean, classic, modern bags are outstanding.

So, with ETWAS’ belated but growing appreciation among the style/craftsman/heritage cognoscenti, OTC is happy to remind everyone that we knew all this way back when.

Will is a graphics design graduate whose dad taught him how to make small leather goods while growing up in western Pennsylvania. In fact, the tannery near his childhood home is where Will now gets the exceptionally fine and thick hides for his ETWAS bags.

A pragmatic guy, Will designed his original bag to simply fit a need at hand. He wanted a bike bag that served the practical purpose of carrying stuff while reflecting his aesthetic and environmental concerns.

Will tells OTC, “I wanted to create my ideal bag, not something was going to be dated in a few years.” The resulting prototype was simple, plain, sturdy and functionally stylish. It’s reminiscent of a classic dispatch case but also embodies distinct elements of a messenger bag.

Two narrow but sturdy straps secure a single, giant compartment. On either end of the bag, D-rings provide additional functionality. The solid brass hardware is sturdy but simple, almost discreet. On the front of the bag, those two straps can also be used to store a small notebook or folded newspaper.

The bag’s body consists of three pieces: the center wrap that creates the front, back, bottom and top flap; and the two side panels. This clean, almost minimalist design creates the illusion of compactness, but don’t be fooled. It’s actually a big bag. The overall message this bag sends is one of near-familiarity. You think you recognize it, but quickly realize that, no, it’s something different.

What’s also distinctive is its inherent imperfection. Since it’s entirely handmade – no machines whatsoever – there is a rustic roughness to the bag’s finishing. The edges are raw, except on the darker stained versions. On the leather’s unfinished underside, you may very well spot template markings from when the maker went a bit off course.

So, each bag bears the nuances and hallmarks of the person who made it. My own bag’s minimal idiosyncrasies don’t bother me at all. Quite the opposite; I often wonder about the craftsman who made it. Because of the personal nature of their construction, each bag takes about five hours to make; the connection between maker and owner is almost tangible.

The real star of this bag is the outstanding leather that Will sources. Thick and stiff, it takes time to wear in and though it will never really soften in the traditional sense, it will conform to the owner’s body and ease over time. It’s just beautiful stuff – from, as it turns out, a tannery close to where he grew up. The regular compliments I receive are evenly split between the bag’s overall look and the leather itself.

When you buy an ETWAS bag, you are investing in the kind of manufacture that is the antithesis of name brand large-scale production. While not inexpensive, with the original version starting at $600.00, Will could easily charge much more based on material and labor costs alone. With ETWAS, you are buying outstanding durability, one of a kind design and a genuine belief in keeping local, staying green and dedication to quality.

Will’s commitment to thoughtful production is evident in the fact that there is no ETWAS factory. Work is primarily done in a Brooklyn co-op facility. But everything needed to make an ETWAS bag can be found in the Design Box, a totally portable workshop that allows each craftsman to set up shop wherever he happens to be. It’s more of a collective effort than it is a traditional start-up.

The individual leather worker is the brawn that crafts every bag by hand. And by handmade, I mean no machines at all; not even for the Goodyear stitching on saddle-thick leather end panels.

They use a reinforced palm cushion to help drive a giant needle through the hide – no easy task. And true to his green beliefs they don’t even use any artificial lighting. When the sun goes down, they’re done for the day.

There are now three models available, the original Standard #1, a more compact version called the Light Pack and a tool bag-cum-purse. Will is working to get his bags into more stores in Manhattan and to increase the brand’s online awareness. OTC wishes him luck and is honored to be an ETWAS kind of guy.

To learn more about ETWAS the company and its dedication to low-impact manufacturing, environmental sustainability and craftsmanship, please visit the company’s website.

OTC Recommends: The Leather Document Folio

OTC — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 09:36:00 +0000

Most of us regularly tote around briefcases, computer or messenger bags, rucksacks and even the odd updated map case. The bag, long a fixation of mine, is a staple in many guys’ lives. And bags seem to be everywhere – more so than in the past, really. We have more to carry around and and often want less of it in our pockets.

However, the simple task of transporting papers and a file or two in style can leave many of us at a loss. Whether a business meeting or the simple desire to pare down and try something with functional flair, that gray space between bag and manila folder is sometimes tricky.

To whit, I offer you the the leather document folio. Simple, elegant, clean and actually quite versatile.

Whether you’re jetting off to Paris or sitting down for a three o’clock staff meeting, your accessories should always be stylish and well thought out. While there are a variety of folio styles, the zippered style that opens up on three sides is a favorite of mine. It lays flat on a table and allows for quick access. I also like the classic larger under arm “college professor” folio.

True, folios have limited space and can never really compete with the functionality of a messenger bag or roomy elegance of a soft sided brief bag. You always have to hold it, or tuck it under your arm, and often there is no outside slash pocket for a paper or metro pass. But such limitations are to me a big part of their charm.

By necessity I am forced to shed most of the stuff I habitually carry around but never really use. It is simplification by requirement.

There are variety of other formats when it comes to leather folios, from a simple, single zippered pocket to the stylistic flair of an envelope style tuck-in flap. Some are wider, to accommodate a little more – maybe a thin laptop, iPad or book. The variety is endless, and that’s what makes them so interesting and useful. For example, my Jack Spade banker’s envelope is just one big pocket, while an older folio from Italy contains a beautifully crafted selection of sleeves and pockets.

What to carry? A wallet. A phone. A pad, a pen, some calling or business cards, and a few important documents should do the job.

Truely Preppy Travel: True Wind Sailcloth Bags

OTC — Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:00:00 +0000

I grew up sailing 420s on Long Island Sound and still have a real love of the water. Sailing, as with many physically challenging sports, makes you appreciate the quality and construction of your equipment and accessories.

For example, Sperry topsiders are beloved by sailors because they actually work well and last. They look pretty good too, especially after being waterlogged a couple of dozen times.

Storage is another big issue, and a good bag is worth its weight in waterproof sailcloth. There are several companies that manufacture tote and duffel bags out of recycled sailcloth – my wife has a cool one with the original number “4” stitched on the side.

But only one company, True Wind, is manufacturing its bags out of brand new Dacron sailcloth, the same stuff that is normally turned into the sails that power some of the world’s top racing boats. From the ground up, True Wind’s bags are uniquely designed and built like tanks. They were kind enough to send me a Port Laptop bag for testing and review some time ago and after months of use, it’s holding up incredibly well. What goes into the bag is what makes it so durable.

Their sailcloth is custom woven in Ireland by Hood Sailmakers, the world’s oldest Dacron sailcloth manufacturer, and the only sailmaker in the world that weaves its own cloth.

Hood’s legacy goes back to its founder, the legendary yachtsman Ted Hood, and was the first company in the world to use man-made fiber (Dacron) in sailmaking. Almost from the beginning, Hood sailcloth has been the cloth of choice for some of the largest and most prestigious cruising, classic, and racing yachts in the world.

For True Wind, using custom woven sailcloth gives them total control over the cloth’s color, hand and finish. In production terms, that means the cloth is of consistent high-quality from one bag to the next. Speaking of production, each bag is made individually by hand, and completely made in America.

The price point for True Wind bags is higher than some other sail cloth bags, but as owner Meredith Marquis pointed out to me, you really get what you pay for. Premium materials and attentive domestic production make these bags legitimate heirlooms. And True Wind is a genuine family business; Meredith and her brother Roger who grew up sailing of the coast of Long Island, founded and still run the company.

Everything that goes into Marquis’ bags is well thought out. The solid brass hardware even comes from the same manufacturer that produces for Coach. All of the other materials, right down to the thread, is marine-grade and of the highest quality.

From a design perspective, True Wind’s bags are genuinely unique. The distinctive stripe pattern takes its inspiration from maritime signal flags; “Y” to be exact. Most of the recycled bag brands all use the same design of numbers and draft stripes, which are the thin strips of color that go across a sail to help the sailor see the shape of the sail. While this random element of “found design” can be appealing, sometimes those bags can take on too-rustic a look.

Lastly, since True Wind’s sailcloth material is brand new and its bags purpose-built, I feel that I could beat the heck out of one and not worry about it. Bags made out of recycled sailcloth are, to me, more of a fashion item – perfect for a cool tote bag, but perhaps not for a duffel bag headed towards an airline baggage handler.

To learn more about True Wind bags, check out the company’s website. By the way, their bags make a great holiday gift and can be monogrammed.

A Classic: The Canvas Tote

OTC — Thu, 27 May 2010 19:34:00 +0000

I have a lifelong appreciation for designs that respect a product’s utilitarian roots.

Classic and traditional styles have always done that. In fact, the hallmark of the true preppy aesthetic is the re-purposing of utilitarian items for everyday life: foul weather gear becomes a fashion statement, prep school ties and jackets appear in the office, and the steamer trunk great uncle Dan used at Yale is now a snazzy coffee table at the beach house.

A great example of this approach to life – utilitarian yet stylish – is the canvas tote bag. The most famous version of this functional workhorse is made by L.L. Bean. In fact, L.L. Bean literally invented the canvas tote bag category. The bag was originally developed to carry blocks of ice (back in the day when block ice was used to keep foods fresh in the ice box).

A nicely aged tote

From these humble beginnings, the bag quickly became recognized for its simple yet elegant functionality. L.L. Bean started to offer the canvas tote in a smaller version and called it the “boat & tote.” It was perfect for lugging around sailing and boating items and the more abuse it suffered the better it looked. So began the WASPy affinity for this multipurpose wonder.

As the Official Preppy Handbook cheekily pointed out, every New England family has several of these lying around the house. In some ways, these canvas totes are a sort of status symbol. That you know what these bags represent – where to get them, the history, even the perceived lifestyle they imply – makes them recognized and desirable.

Heritage Research, a workwear inspired British brand, even convinced L.L. Bean to produce a limited run of the original 30oz cotton duck ice tote bag.

Courtesy of Selectism.com

The L.L. Bean canvas tote bag has been liberally copied by many competitors. The basic design has even been reinterpreted by suppliers to Wall Street brokerage houses and white shoe law firms. Their logoed bags, given as employee gifts or awards, have become New York chic collector items. Go figure.

It is not uncommon to see these bags on the subway commuting to work with their owners. They are neutrally appealing and bring a bit of the outdoors to the office without being at all kitschy. The midsized L.L. Bean version is perfectly proportioned to hold everyday stuff along with lunch or a morning bagel.

Jack’s New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren

OTC — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 15:20:00 +0000

As most of OTC’s readers know, I am a bag guy. I commute to work by train, which of course necessitates a good bag, but I also have a thing about carrying too much stuff on my person.

The search for the elusive perfect guy bag has been, and continues to be, a mission of mine. I have had some successes – Jack Spade’s Canvas Day Bag is a great option, as is Ghurka’s classic and pricey Examiner.

I have also written on the most famous of all man bags, Indiana Jones’ modified British Mark VII gas mask bag.

Jack Bauer (Keifer Sutherland), of the television show “24″, has done a lot to bring the man bag back to the forefront. The original “Jack sack”, as Bauer’s varying bags came to be called, became a cult hit. Inexpensive and readily available, it’s also a great bag in real life; roomy, good pockets, durable and classically functional looking.

The original Jack Sack

I received a number of requests to track down the identity of the current season-eight bag. This one is leather and a bit more fancy than Jack’s typical military inspired bags. So, I went strait to the 24-obsessed experts at The Jack Sack and now have the answer. It’s from Ralph Lauren.

Season 8′s bag of choice

The bag is the Double RL leather Mail Bag and based on the classic American letter carrier bag. Only a few months ago I had this very same bag in my hand while on a visit to the Ralph Lauren store in Georgetown. I really liked it, but at nearly $900, I gave it a pass.

Ralph Lauren also makes a more elegant version of the bag in the form of their Deerfield Leather mail bag, but that one is priced around $1,200. The leather on this one, however, is amazing.

Ralph Lauren’s Deerfield

The original reinterpretation of this iconic work satchel was made by J. Peterman and is still available at less painful $300. A few years ago I tested this bag, a gift to me from John Peterman, and it’s still one of my all-time favorites.

J. Peterman’s Mailbag – The Best Bag Ever?

OTC — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 21:47:00 +0000

It’s funny how sometimes things just come together. I am a bag guy; I have lots of different bags, from elegant leather briefs to beat-up nylon messengers.

One of my all-time favorites is the Counterfeit Mailbag, from the J. Peterman Company. In fact, it’s one of the first bags I ever wrote about and was sent to me by John Peterman himself – it can’t really get better than that.

The bag, based on the classic leather workhorse lugged across the country by a generation of letter carriers, is simple and classic. Unique enough to be modern and fit effortlessly into the current “heritage” trend it is also timeless enough to always look current.

A fantastic example of this staying power was brought to my attention by one of my readers in California. Though she asked to remain anonymous, this globe-trotting lady has had a 15-year love affair with her J. Peterman mailbag. For those of us who knew J. Peterman back in the day, those first Owner’s Manual catalogs, with the now iconic watercolor illustrations, were collector’s items.

Products like the Counterfeit Mailbag were and still are the core of Peterman’s unique and creative product mix.

With my sincere thanks, here is her story, in her own words (these are her pictures too, what a great looking bag):

Back in 1994 when I bought the Counterfeit Mailbag, $300 was a lot of money to me. I remember the year because I got it at the same time the Olympics were in Norway. It was almost a full month’s rent. I coveted the bag from the moment I first saw it in the J. Peterman Catalog. I tore the page out of the catalog, pinned it to my fridge together with an envelope. Every time I had an extra $1 or $5, I stuck it in the envelope. Eventually after about a year I had enough to buy it.

I remember being so excited when it came – I took pictures of it! They are right… when you first get it, you are afraid of every little scratch or the rain… but the fears pass away as the bag gets worn in. The leather becomes very soft and supple. Of course it is worn, dirty and has an ink stain on the side from a leaky pen — but that just gives it character. I still get compliments on the bag all the time.

The amazing thing is that this bag has really, truly stood the test of time. I am in awe. I have probably unzipped that zipper 30-40,000 times. It’s never once given me a bit of problem. It’s never needed repairs, either. All of the stitching has held beautifully, even the parts that get the most wear and tear. They just don’t make quality stuff like this anymore. The description in the catalog is right — it will most certainly outlast me.

My bag has been with me in all my travels over the years: Australia, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka, India, Israel, Jordon, Egypt, across China, Tibet, Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Russia, just about every country in Europe, South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia, Mexico, Costa Rica, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Peru – and all over the U.S. It was even with me in a crowd of millions on The Mall when Obama took the oath of office.

Hint: When filled with clothing, the bag makes a perfect impromptu pillow.

I realize that some people like a bag or suitcase with lots of pockets – but not me. I find that the one deep pocket serves me well. I use 2-3 smaller zippered enclosures to keep toiletries and other small items organized, but that’s about it.

I travel extremely lightly. So light that you’d think I was going away for 1 night. On most of those trips, the only bag I took was this one and one smaller purse for those times I didn’t want to take the bag with me. I learned very early that you really don’t need much to travel. Most things can be purchased along the way.

Another hint: I keep a small fake wallet in my bag, right near the top. I keep a few bills of the local currently in there along with some business cards and such. It’s been pick pocketed 2-3 times in my travels and I handed it over when I was mugged once in Italy — but they’ve never gotten the real one which I keep in the zippered section and most passport/credit card/extra money in an around the waist money belt.

It’s also my every day throw over my shoulder commuter bag but I also empty it out when I walk down to the grocery store and use it to haul my groceries or farmer’s market items home.

It’s an investment that’s been well worth every penny I spent.

Going Old School: Manhattan Portage Waxwear

OTC — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 16:40:00 +0000

This is the last installment of my Commuter and Dad Bag Test. I have had the chance to examine and test numerous bags from a number of brands spanning a variety of styles. From nylon messenger bags built for urban transport to a classic leather mailbag ready to handle a lifetime of aging.

I have also gained an appreciation for the many companies out there looking for the next big thing in transporting your stuff with style and function. One bag had so many pockets, flaps and zippers that I almost needed an instruction book to remember where I put my house key. Another had no outside pockets at all, not one; so every time I needed to access my metro card, up came the giant flap and a panicked search would ensue. That one didn’t last long.

Perhaps because of all the impressive advancements in the bag market, I also have a much greater appreciation for the basics. The J. Peterman Counterfeit Mail Bag is an excellent example of what I consider mastery of common sense. It is simple, sturdy, beautiful and totally functional. Is it perfect for all your needs? Probably not, but that’s not the point. Every time I carry it, I get at least one compliment before I even reach the office.

The last bag I tested was another simple and timeless design by Manhattan Portage, one of the original messenger bag companies. The Waxed Vintage Messenger Bag (model #1605V-WP, $60.00) sounds slightly intimidating, but it’s really a wonderful bag that has real personality outside of its functional role.

The company itself can be described the same way. When it was founded in 1983, Manhattan Portage had a simple philosophy, “a bag for everyone.” 25 years later it still holds true. Across the globe, from Boston to Osaka, Manhattan Portage’s line of bags are indeed everywhere and carried by everyone. I even saw one on a barge trip in Provence, France.

As a company, Manhattan Portage remains loyal to its New York roots. Because their designs are functional and straightforward, the bags always seem to be in style – no mean feat in a city that’s constantly in search of something new and different.

Manhattan Portage has been able to avoid becoming another fleeting fad and withstand the test of time because their bags do. In fact, a fascinating April 2007 Esquire story documents the survival and subsequent examination of the writer’s messenger bag after making it out of lower Manhattan on September 11, 2001. That’s one tough bag.

The one I tested, under far less strenuous conditions, is nonetheless a robust bag that will be around for a long time. Constructed of waxwear, it is a little heavier than similar nylon-based bags. What is gained though, a natural and durable material, is worth the difference.

In Brown

The fabric used by Manhattan Portage is from Herbert Rice, one of the top makers of waxed fabrics. Waxwear, a trademarked product, is a cotton-based fabric impregnated with a paraffin formula derived from recipes from the turn of the last century. Proofed against inclement weather, it maintains the breathability of cotton. And, as anyone with an old Barbour jacket can tell you, it ages really well.

Smaller in appearance than I expected, this bag is deceivingly large and its single main compartment comfortably swallowed multiple books, pads and other weighty stuff. There is a small zippered pocket on the rear inside panel well sized for pens, keys and loose change. My bag is lined with a day-glo yellow that makes it easy to find most anything in there – no dark corners.

Closure is achieved by a wide Velcro strip that extends across the front of the bag. The flap’s underside is outfitted with two vertical mating strips that hold the flap snugly in place; easy to open and close. The strap is heavy duty Cordura and sizing is managed by a strong metal buckle.

Overall, this is one of the most useful messenger style bags I have tested. Its size and design are practical and the waxed navy blue material blends well with most outfits short of a suit. It’s definitely a keeper.

Commuter & Dad Bag Test: Timbuk2

OTC — Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:27:00 +0000

If there is one company that’s the proverbial 800 pound gorilla of the messenger bag industry, it’s Timbuk2.

The San Francisco based company’s three paneled bags have become somewhat iconic, just like its curly-cue logo. Though owners can customize those panels to almost any color combination, the bags are still instantly identifiable.

BACKGROUND
From its founding in 1989, Timbuk2’s goal was to create a bag rugged enough to serve the street pounding bicycle messengers of San Francisco yet stylish enough to appeal to a broader market.

Unlike other messenger bag companies, whose bags were co-opted by people looking to emulate bike messengers, the epitome of cool, Timbuk2’s designs were created with potential suburban commuters in mind. In 1994, the three panel design was perfected and customers were encouraged to customize their bag designs.

This gave birth to the particularly unique Timbuk2 style wave, now seen from San Francisco to New York, Memphis to Denver. Produced in different sizes and with various functionalities, their bags all share a common look and distinctive personality that can go city slick or biker artsy based on the owner’s preferences.

The Timbuk2 web site is a combination retail portal and street art venue. You can customize your bag right down to the color of the swirling logo. The site also has an interesting history of messenger bags.

THE TEST
The company sent me two bags, a medium classic messenger bag and Wiki laptop sleeve. Both are in the new Cross fabric that is somewhat akin to a heavy duty hounds tooth. The wide woven pattern at first looks loose and potentially weak. In fact, it is a tight weave that is totally waterproof. The Cross fabric is part of a textile experiment that has the company designers re-imagining their products with more high-end materials and treatments. Both bags were used for day to day commuting. The Wiki is limited in that it’s a laptop sleeve, so usage is pretty well defined. The messenger bag however, is a full service product and I took it on the road to Memphis.

As my carry-on bag, it was kicked, shoved and generally abused. It was also overstuffed and filled with awkwardly shaped boxes and books. To look at it, you couldn’t tell. Overall, these are sturdy bags they both held up well to real world conditions.

THE RESULTS
Both bags are great. The Cross fabric is different enough to be innovative, but practical enough for daily use. In terms of functionality, they are both well designed and do what you want them to do. I’ve used each under varying conditions while traveling and on the daily commute and they are some of the best.

Cross Classic Messenger (Medium / $150.00)
The Timbuk2 medium classic messenger bag is in many ways the perfect commuter messenger bag. It’s large enough to hold what you need but small enough to not be turned into a sack of stuff. Unlike purpose built bags that were later put to use by office dwellers, Timbuk2 messenger bags were built with that very constituency in mind.

This translates to sensible proportions and the unique pocket panel fitted into every Timbuk 2 messenger bag. There are slots for pens, a clear window for business cards, a cell phone sleeve and a variety of other pocket in varying sizes. There are also two zippered pockets – one large and one small – for securing your valuables and loose items.

Other options like a body stabilizing strap and shoulder strap pad come with this particular model. Small but meaningful features include bag buckles constructed from metal rather and plastic and a key tether located in an outer pocket instead of the normal in-bag location.

Cross Wiki (Medium / $60.00)
The Wiki is a laptop commuter sleeve with a carrying handle. Other than an outside pocket that can hold a few sheets of paper, that’s it. The thickly padded corduroy lining cradles and protects your machine and the bag’s limited features keep its purpose clear and simple.

I found this to be a great bag for moving around the laptop and keeping it simple. I am now very much a convert to keeping my laptop in its own slim and trim bag. I may not get everything into one bag, but this is a sensible and handy alternative.

Commuter & Dad Bag Test: Crumpler – Funny Name, Good Bag

OTC — Wed, 26 Mar 2008 15:38:00 +0000

Ever heard of Crumpler? Maybe not, but I suspect that most readers might recognize that little crazy-haired logo on the company’s distinctive messenger-inspired bags. You might not remember exactly where you saw him or on what, but chances are it will ring familiar.

Crumpler is one of those brands; sort of everywhere but not necessarily front and center. The Australian company takes its bag making very seriously, but certainly not itself. The wacky product names that to an Australian contain a bit of tongue-in-cheek humor are all but lost on confused Americans. The website is a riot of cartoons, icons and stuffed animals. You have to hunt a bit for the actual products and then figure out what picture connects to which bag category.

Definitely a quirky company; they even demonstrate their bags’ various capacities by stacking six packs of beer inside – what else could you want?

Still, it’s a bag company and the bags definitely take center stage. Crumpler’s messenger, computer and photography bags are marvels of design and construction, and that’s what counts. Founded Down Under by former bike messengers, comfort and durability blend creatively with innovative, almost organic, designs.

The result is a distinctive personality and DNA that carries through to each of their designs. Once you know Crumpler, you can spot their bags a mile away.

THE RESULTS
I contacted Crumpler USA to find out if they could spare a bag for the Commuter and Dad Bag Test. They said, “Sure, we’d be chuffed” and proceeded to send me two; the Complete Seed messenger bag ($105.00) in gun metal grey and a the Part & Parcel laptop bag ($160.00) in a two-toned blue.

I was not really looking to test a laptop bag per se. But when speaking with them, I had mentioned rather specifically that since I was trying to find that elusive one-bag-that-can-do-it-all, carrying a laptop was one something that factored in.

Both are some of the best made messenger style bags I’ve ever seen. The water resistant 1000D nylon shell and 420D nylon interior are thick and sturdy. The Velcro closures are large and stay closed, even with full loads. Both have additional adjustable quick-release straps as well.

Crumpler shoulder straps are second to none; they are strong, flexible and thick enough to have an almost rounded edge. The shoulder pad, which is included (there’s an idea), is large and molds comfortably to your shoulder. The bags also have a standard “third leg” stability strap that provides additional security across your chest for full loads.

The Part & Parcel
The first thing that strikes you when gazing upon the P&P for the first time is that it looks large; but that’s a bit of a false impression. Though boxy looking, it is not a deep bag, so when you actually sling it over your shoulder it doesn’t feel too large or heavy, even when fully loaded.

The P&P is very much a messenger bag at heart; it has no carrying handle and no outside pockets once the large flap is closed. When open however, a cacophony of interior pockets is revealed. And though usually a plus, in this case I could have done with fewer.

The bag is divided into two main areas; the rear section which includes the computer sleeve and space for large items like files and binders. The computer sleeve is generous and has enough padding to protect a stack of bone china plates.

The front section has all those multiple storage pockets and therein lies my sole complaint. There are just too many small pockets piled up one upon the other. Once I had filled them up, it became a challenge to remember which pocket actually held what item. Since each one has either zippered or velcro closures, you can’t even take a quick glance when searching for, say, your metro pass. Not a critical issue, but it’s still annoying.

There is a lot of organization housed in this bag. Even the inside of the flap is put to use by way of a large mesh pocket, though I’m not sure what I would store there. My wife tested the P&P as well and noted that a carrying handle would make a world of difference for those times when the shoulder strap is not practical, like getting in or out of a car.

The Complete Seed
Frankly, I was not entirely sure if I would like this black hole of a bag. It’s big. And if a large bag isn’t what you really need, it can quickly become a formless hassle. Not so with the Complete Seed. Though certainly large, it is incredibly comfortable to carry either full or not so full. This is now officially one of my favorite bags.

This is a classic messenger bag so it’s designed to carry lots of stuff; hence, the focus is a large main compartment. Additionally, there are six smaller pockets ingeniously built into the Complete Seed’s front panel. The three “outer” pockets open along the bag’s top edge so they are easy to access while on the move. The three inner pockets are positioned identically, but run along the backside of the front panel (that is, on the inside of the bag). The center of these has a velcro closure to better secure small articles.

Locating the small pockets in such a fashion allows the main compartment to remain a huge block of negative space into which you could fit a small car. You almost don’t even notice the other pockets at all.

When filled with books, files and a laptop, it was still comfortable to carry. Though there was some shifting, that problem is not uncommon with a large bag that has no organizational features in its main compartment.

WRAP UP
This is easy; both are excellent bags with many pluses and a few minuses. Even then, the minuses can be chalked up to the simple fact that each bag was built to perform a certain job so its features are geared in a particular direction. Both bags are some of the best constructed I’ve ever come across and each is truly unique.

Crumpler is innovative in its marketing approach and unafraid to design bags which are distinctive to the point of niche. Either you like them or you don’t. I do.

Which one is closest to my idea of a commuter/dad bag? The Complete Seed hits that mark. Though not really appropriate for a suit, and most messenger bags are not, it is a stylish and totally functional workhorse that I’ve been happy to tote around.

Commuter & Dad Bag Test: Bag #1

OTC — Wed, 05 Mar 2008 22:12:00 +0000

Anyone who reads Off The Cuff regularly knows that I am always thinking about bags in one way or another because men today need them more than ever. And for those of us who commute by bus or rail, like me, we need good bags.

This led to the idea of the Commuter and Dad Bag Test. Unlike some other tests out there, I did not concoct some elaborate rating scale with minute technical benchmarks. I am simply looking at the bag’s suitability for use in the real world. Is it something I will actually want to carry around all day? Is it user friendly and well designed? Can it carry a laptop and a baby bottle without making me nervous?

I have already tested several bags, which entails real life day-to-day usage. I’m using them for work, running errands and carrying stuff around. They are being dropped, stuffed, rained and occasionally stepped on. My scoring system is fairly simple: I’ll tell you what I think why I think it and give you an overview of each bag’s performance, pros and cons. I am happy to now present the first review.

The J. Peterman Counterfeit Mailbag
(US$398.00 / www.jpeterman.com)

BACKGROUND
This is the only leather bag in the test and also the only messenger bag style bag. It is modeled after the old mail carrier bags that lugged generations of correspondence across the United States. Like the original, it is designed to hang off your shoulder or be carried by the sturdy handle (a modern concession).

Its manufacturer, The J. Peterman Company, is a remarkable company in its own right. Based in Lexington, Kentucky, its founder and namesake, John Peterman, is something of a cult figure in the premium catalog world. For more than 20 years, his iconic “owner’s manuals” have made their way to one expectant mailbox after another. With impressionistic watercolor images and pithy short stories instead of bland product specs, each one is a treat for the eye.

The company may also sound familiar to fans of the TV show “Seinfeld,” which turned John Peterman into a pompous blowhard played with aplomb by actor John O’Hurley (ironically, a part owner of the company). He did such a wonderful job of creating a larger than life character that most viewers did not even realize it was based on a real person and an actual company.

Those familiar with J. Peterman are ardent fans who appreciate its unique offerings and worldly (and wordy) marketing approach. The Counterfeit Mailbag is an original J. Peterman product and one I have long admired – a personal note of thanks goes out to John Peterman for providing the bag for this test.

THE RESULTS
The day after it arrived, I loaded up and headed off to the office. I quickly lost track of the number of compliments I received by the time I headed home. It certainly has impact on people. Perhaps it is the obvious functionality in its DNA or the classic, simple styling of the thick yet supple leather, but something in this bag makes people like it.

Overall, I have to admit that this is not the ultimate commuter bag. It is not really designed for such a purpose, and actually that’s fine. This bag has so much personality and practical style that it’s almost unapologetic about its limitations. So, while I would recommend it as a great general purpose bag, using it in a commuter-specific role is not what it’s cut out for.

There is one giant open compartment which makes up 90% of the bag and a large exterior zippered pocket in front. This is all covered by an enormous leather flap. The large open pocket has a simple yet ingenious leather tab that buttons on to a brass stud used to keep the pocket pulled closed.

Design-wise, the large main compartment provides no organizational features; it’s just a big space that allows things to move around and get lost. Also, because of the bag’s design – it has a wide structured bottom and a flexible opening that is pulled closed via the tab – stuff naturally gets pushed out of place. For example, although my laptop had plenty of room in the bag, it also quickly shifted around and caused files and notebooks to slide to the bottom. With no additional interior pockets, my cell phone and Blackberry were quickly lost form view.

The zippered front pocket is quite large and slightly gusseted to allow for expansion. The zipper, as with all of the bag’s hardware, is top notch and sturdy. There are no pen loops or extra interior pockets so your smaller items will get jumbled a bit as well.

The sturdy leather shoulder strap is just that, a shoulder strap. Like the original, this bag is designed to be slung over one shoulder, not cross body. There is also a substantial padded leather handle, so it can be carried in business case fashion as well. Usually a perfunctory appendage on shoulder bags, this handle is wholly functional and well designed. Positioned at the center rear of the bag, it distributes weight fairly evenly, so it can be comfortably carried for long periods of time.

WRAP UP
The Counterfeit Mailbag is perhaps my favorite overall bag. Neither a briefcase nor a messenger bag, it is actually the closest thing to man bag that I’ve come across. It is absolutely masculine and works quite well with a suit; just make sure to carry it by the handle so as to not mess up your jacket. At the same time the almost total lack of modern luggage engineering gives it a rugged, timeless appeal that works with a leather bomber and fedora. In fact, you are duly instructed to beat the heck out of it to help accelerate the aging process.

This is the kind of bag you want to carry around; it has unmistakable personality and a real sense of history and purpose to it. Just accept its organizational limitations and enjoy.