A Classic: The Canvas Tote

LLB+Tote A Classic: The Canvas ToteI have a lifelong appreciation for designs that respect a product’s utilitarian roots.

Classic and traditional styles have always done that. In fact, the hallmark of the true preppy aesthetic is the re-purposing of utilitarian items for everyday life: foul weather gear becomes a fashion statement, prep school ties and jackets appear in the office, and the steamer trunk great uncle Dan used at Yale is now a snazzy coffee table at the beach house.

A great example of this approach to life – utilitarian yet stylish – is the canvas tote bag. The most famous version of this functional workhorse is made by L.L. Bean. In fact, L.L. Bean literally invented the canvas tote bag category. The bag was originally developed to carry blocks of ice (back in the day when block ice was used to keep foods fresh in the ice box).

Aged+Tote A Classic: The Canvas Tote
A nicely aged tote

From these humble beginnings, the bag quickly became recognized for its simple yet elegant functionality. L.L. Bean started to offer the canvas tote in a smaller version and called it the “boat & tote.” It was perfect for lugging around sailing and boating items and the more abuse it suffered the better it looked. So began the WASPy affinity for this multipurpose wonder.

As the Official Preppy Handbook cheekily pointed out, every New England family has several of these lying around the house. In some ways, these canvas totes are a sort of status symbol. That you know what these bags represent – where to get them, the history, even the perceived lifestyle they imply – makes them recognized and desirable.

Heritage Research, a workwear inspired British brand, even convinced L.L. Bean to produce a limited run of the original 30oz cotton duck ice tote bag.

heritage research ll bean ice tote 02 A Classic: The Canvas Tote
Courtesy of Selectism.com

The L.L. Bean canvas tote bag has been liberally copied by many competitors. The basic design has even been reinterpreted by suppliers to Wall Street brokerage houses and white shoe law firms. Their logoed bags, given as employee gifts or awards, have become New York chic collector items. Go figure.

It is not uncommon to see these bags on the subway commuting to work with their owners. They are neutrally appealing and bring a bit of the outdoors to the office without being at all kitschy. The midsized L.L. Bean version is perfectly proportioned to hold everyday stuff along with lunch or a morning bagel.

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OTC Endorses: ETWAS Bags

branding.jpg OTC Endorses: ETWAS BagsWhen Will Lisak, founder of ETWAS Bags first got in touch with me, it was in the form of a challenge.


He left a comment on a post about Jack Bauer’s bag, from the show “24,” stating that his bag was tougher than Jack’s. After getting to know a little bit more about Will and his small company, ETWAS, German for “something,” I had little doubt.

Will is a graphics design graduate whose dad taught him how to make small leather goods while growing up in western Pennsylvania. In fact, the tannery near his childhood home is where Will now gets the exceptionally fine and thick hides for his ETWAS bags.

A pragmatic guy, Will designed his original bag to simply fit a need at hand. He wanted a bike bag that served the practical purpose of carrying stuff while reflecting his aesthetic and environmental concerns.

Will told me, “I wanted to create my ideal bag, not something was going to be dated in a few years.” The resulting prototype was simple, plain, sturdy and functionally stylish. It’s reminiscent of a classic dispatch case but also embodies distinct elements of a messenger bag.

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My ETWAS bag in Natural

Two narrow but sturdy straps secure a single, giant compartment. On either end of the bag, D-rings provide additional functionality.
The solid brass hardware is sturdy but simple, almost discreet. On the front of the bag, those two straps can also be used to store a small notebook or folded newspaper.

The bag’s body consists of three pieces: the center wrap that creates the front, back, bottom and top flap; and the two side panels. This clean, almost minimalist design creates the illusion of compactness, but don’t be fooled. It’s actually a big bag. The overall message this bag sends is one of near-familiarity. You think you recognize it, but quickly realize that, no, it’s something different.

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Thick and sturdy harness leather

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Completely hand stitched

What’s also distinctive is its inherent imperfection. Since it’s entirely handmade – no machines whatsoever – there is a rustic roughness to the bag’s finishing. The edges are raw, except on the darker stained versions, and on the leather’s unfinished underside, you might see template markings from when the cutter went a bit off course.

So, each bag bears the nuances and hallmarks of the person who made it. My own bag’s very minimal idiosyncrasies don’t bother me at all. Quite the opposite; I often wonder about the guy who made my bag. Because of the personal nature of their construction, each bag takes about five hours to make, the connection between maker and owner is almost tangible.

Let me point out that I purchased my bag a special discount directly related to my testing and review. Also, the images used throughout this article are from ETWAS. I tried to take a few pictures of my bag and did not come remotely close to Will in capturing the style, detail and elements of construction.

The real star of this bag is the outstanding leather Will sources. Thick and stiff, it takes time to wear in and though it will never really soften in the traditional sense, it will conform to the owner’s body and ease over time. It’s just beautiful stuff.
The regular compliments I receive are evenly split between the bag’s overall look and the leather itself.

Bag+Production OTC Endorses: ETWAS Bags
ETWAS craftsman at work

When you buy an ETWAS bag, you are investing in the kind of manufacture that is the antithesis of name brand large-scale production. While not inexpensive at $400.00, Will could easily charge double based on material and labor costs alone. With ETWAS, you are buying outstanding durability, one of a kind design and a genuine belief in keeping local, staying green and dedication to quality.

Will’s commitment to thoughtful production is evident in the fact that there is no ETWAS factory. Work is primarily done in a Brooklyn co-op facility. But everything needed to make an ETWAS bag can be found in the Design Box, a totally portable workshop that allows each craftsman to set up shop wherever he happens to be.

workbox OTC Endorses: ETWAS Bags

Each individual leather worker is the brawn that crafts every bag by hand. And by handmade, I mean no machines at all; not even for the Goodyear stitching on saddle-thick leather end panels. They use a reinforced palm cushion to help drive a giant needle through the hide – no easy task. And true to his green beliefs they don’t use any lighting. When the sun goes down, they’re done for the day.

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The bag in Dark Brown

Will is working to get the bag into more stores in Manhattan and to increase the brand’s online awareness. OTC wishes him luck and is happy to be an ETWAS kind of guy.

To learn more about ETWAS the company and its dedication to low impact manufacturing, environmental sustainability and craftsmanship, please visit the company’s website.

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Jack’s New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren

JackSackSeason8+Still Jacks New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph LaurenAs most of OTC’s readers know, I am a bag guy. I commute to work by train, which of course necessitates a good bag, but I also have a thing about carrying too much stuff on my person.

The search for the elusive perfect guy bag has been, and continues to be, a mission of mine. I have had some successes – Jack Spade’s Canvas Day Bag is a great option, as is Ghurka’s classic and pricey Examiner.

I have also written on the most famous of all man bags, Indiana Jones’ modified British Mark VII gas mask bag.

Jack Bauer (Keifer Sutherland), of the television show “24″, has done a lot to bring the man bag back to the forefront. The original “Jack sack”, as Bauer’s varying bags came to be called, became a cult hit. Inexpensive and readily available, it’s also a great bag in real life; roomy, good pockets, durable and classically functional looking.

Jack+Bauer+Bag Jacks New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
The original Jack Sack

I received a number of requests to track down the identity of the current season-eight bag. This one is leather and a bit more fancy than Jack’s typical military inspired bags. So, I went strait to the 24-obsessed experts at The Jack Sack and now have the answer. It’s from Ralph Lauren.

JackSackSeason8 Jacks New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Season 8′s bag of choice

The bag is the Double RL leather Mail Bag and based on the classic American letter carrier bag. Only a few months ago I had this very same bag in my hand while on a visit to the Ralph Lauren store in Georgetown. I really liked it, but at nearly $900, I gave it a pass.

Ralph Lauren also makes a more elegant version of the bag in the form of their Deerfield Leather mail bag, but that one is priced around $1,200.
The leather on this one, however, is amazing.

RL+Mailbag+Multiview Jacks New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren’s Deerfield

The original reinterpretation of this iconic work satchel was made by J. Peterman and is still available at less painful $300. A few years ago I tested this bag, a gift to me from John Peterman, and it’s still one of my all-time favorites.

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DSC04907 J. Petermans Mailbag   The Best Bag Ever?It’s funny how sometimes things just come together. I am a bag guy; I have lots of different bags, from elegant leather briefs to beat-up nylon messengers.

One of my all-time favorites is the Counterfeit Mailbag, from the J. Peterman Company. In fact, it’s one of the first bags I ever wrote about and was sent to me by John Peterman himself – it can’t really get better than that.

The bag, based on the classic leather workhorse lugged across the country by a generation of letter carriers, is simple and classic. Unique enough to be modern and fit effortlessly into the current “heritage” trend it is also timeless enough to always look current.

A fantastic example of this staying power was brought to my attention by one of my readers in California. Though she asked to remain anonymous, this globe-trotting lady has had a 15-year love affair with her J. Peterman mailbag. For those of us who knew J. Peterman back in the day, those first Owner’s Manual catalogs, with the now iconic watercolor illustrations, were collector’s items.

Products like the Counterfeit Mailbag were and still are the core of Peterman’s unique and creative product mix.

With my sincere thanks, here is her story, in her own words (these are her pictures too, what a great looking bag):

Back in 1994 when I bought the Counterfeit Mailbag, $300 was a lot of money to me. I remember the year because I got it at the same time the Olympics were in Norway. It was almost a full month’s rent. I coveted the bag from the moment I first saw it in the J. Peterman Catalog. I tore the page out of the catalog, pinned it to my fridge together with an envelope. Every time I had an extra $1 or $5, I stuck it in the envelope. Eventually after about a year I had enough to buy it.

I remember being so excited when it came – I took pictures of it! They are right… when you first get it, you are afraid of every little scratch or the rain… but the fears pass away as the bag gets worn in. The leather becomes very soft and supple. Of course it is worn, dirty and has an ink stain on the side from a leaky pen — but that just gives it character. I still get compliments on the bag all the time.

DSC04913 J. Petermans Mailbag   The Best Bag Ever?

The amazing thing is that this bag has really, truly stood the test of time. I am in awe. I have probably unzipped that zipper 30-40,000 times. It’s never once given me a bit of problem. It’s never needed repairs, either. All of the stitching has held beautifully, even the parts that get the most wear and tear. They just don’t make quality stuff like this anymore. The description in the catalog is right — it will most certainly outlast me.

DSC04939 J. Petermans Mailbag   The Best Bag Ever?

My bag has been with me in all my travels over the years: Australia, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka, India, Israel, Jordon, Egypt, across China, Tibet, Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Russia, just about every country in Europe, South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia, Mexico, Costa Rica, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Peru – and all over the U.S. It was even with me in a crowd of millions on The Mall when Obama took the oath of office.

Hint: When filled with clothing, the bag makes a perfect impromptu pillow.

I realize that some people like a bag or suitcase with lots of pockets – but not me. I find that the one deep pocket serves me well. I use 2-3 smaller zippered enclosures to keep toiletries and other small items organized, but that’s about it.

DSC04945 J. Petermans Mailbag   The Best Bag Ever?

I travel extremely lightly. So light that you’d think I was going away for 1 night. On most of those trips, the only bag I took was this one and one smaller purse for those times I didn’t want to take the bag with me. I learned very early that you really don’t need much to travel. Most things can be purchased along the way.

Another hint: I keep a small fake wallet in my bag, right near the top. I keep a few bills of the local currently in there along with some business cards and such. It’s been pick pocketed 2-3 times in my travels and I handed it over when I was mugged once in Italy — but they’ve never gotten the real one which I keep in the zippered section and most passport/credit card/extra money in an around the waist money belt.

DSC04947 J. Petermans Mailbag   The Best Bag Ever?
DSC04906 J. Petermans Mailbag   The Best Bag Ever?

It’s also my every day throw over my shoulder commuter bag but I also empty it out when I walk down to the grocery store and use it to haul my groceries or farmer’s market items home.

It’s an investment that’s been well worth every penny I spent.

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OTC Discovery: True Wind Sailcloth Bags

IMAGE 1 OTC Discovery: True Wind Sailcloth BagsI grew up sailing 420s on Long Island Sound and still have a real love of the water. Sailing, as with many physically challenging sports, makes you appreciate the quality and construction of your equipment and accessories.

For example, Sperry topsiders are beloved by sailors because they actually work well and last. They look pretty good too, especially after being waterlogged a couple of dozen times.

Storage is another big issue, and a good bag is worth its weight in waterproof sailcloth. There are several companies that manufacture tote bags and duffels out of recycled sailcloth – my wife has a cool one with the original number “4” stitched on the side.

But only one company, True Wind, is manufacturing its bags out of brand new Dacron sailcloth, the same stuff that is normally turned into the sails that power some of the world’s top racing boats. From the ground up, True Wind’s bags are uniquely designed and built like tanks.

420+Sailing OTC Discovery: True Wind Sailcloth Bags
A classic 420 under sail!

Their sailcloth is custom woven in Ireland by Hood Sailmakers, the world’s oldest Dacron sailcloth manufacturer, and the only sailmaker in the world that weaves its own cloth.

Hood’s legacy goes back to its founder, the legendary yachtsman Ted Hood, and was the first company in the world to use man-made fiber (Dacron) in sailmaking. Almost from the beginning, Hood sailcloth has been the cloth of choice for some of the largest and most prestigious cruising, classic, and racing yachts in the world.

For True Wind, using custom woven sailcloth gives them total control over the cloth’s color, hand and finish. In production terms, that means the cloth is of consistent high-quality from one bag to the next. Speaking of production, each bag is made individually by hand, and completely made in America.

Ditty+Bag Group OTC Discovery: True Wind Sailcloth Bags
Ditty Bags

The price point for True Wind bags is higher than some other sail cloth bags, but as owner Roger Marquis pointed out to me, you really get what you pay for. Premium materials and attentive domestic production make these bags legitimate heirlooms.

Everything that goes into his bags is well thought out. The solid brass hardware even comes from the same manufacturer that produces for Coach. All of the other materials, right down to the thread, is marine-grade and of the highest quality.

From a design perspective, True Wind’s bags are genuinely unique. The distinctive stripe pattern takes its inspiration from maritime signal flags; “Y” to be exact. Most of the recycled bag brands all use the same design of numbers and draft stripes, which are the thin strips of color that go across a sail to help the sailor see the shape of the sail. While this random element of “found design” can be appealing, sometimes those bags can take on too-rustic a look.

Navigator+Duffel Group OTC Discovery: True Wind Sailcloth Bags
The Navigator Duffel Bag

One last point, and this is a personal thing, has to do with functionality. Since True Wind’s sailcloth material is brand new and its bags purpose built, I feel that I could beat the heck out of one and not worry about it. Bags made out of recycled sailcloth are, to me, more of a fashion item – perfect for a cool tote bag, but perhaps not for a duffle bag headed towards an airline baggage handler.

To learn more about True Wind bags, check out the company’s website. By the way, their bags make a great Father’s Day or graduation gift and can be monogrammed.

As an aside, True Wind is a genuine family business. The company was founded by a brother and sister team who grew up spending their days sailing off the coast of Long Island – who wouldn’t like to have that back-story?

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