OTC Recommends: Drakes London

Drakes+London+2 OTC Recommends: Drakes LondonThose of you who are fans of the outstanding magazine Monocle (a global briefing on style/politics/culture/urban planning) are probably familiar with Drakes London. Monocle’s founding editor-in-chief, Tyler Brule, devoted a recent editor’s page to this remarkable neck wear firm. No mere affectation, the “London” portion of the name is very much a badge of honor. Their ties are, in fact, handmade in London.

Based in Clerkenwell, the Drakes workshop is a wonderful example of “slow fashion.” Outsourcing and high speed production might get ties out the door and on the sales shelf faster and more cheaply, but that will never happen because Drakes takes particular pride in its British heritage and craftsmen quality. Such dedication to their craft is a matter of principle and that alone makes it worthy of a formal OTC recommendation.

Neckties are an interesting thing; they are functionless beyond adornment yet prized for their ability to convey status ranging from revered gravitas to comical idiocy. Most holiday theme ties fall into the latter category, whether deliberately so or not. And while some men view choosing a necktie as another in a series of forced convention, many instead see it as an opportunity to telegraph values, quality, style, personality and craftsmanship. In the case of some high-end brands like Hermes, that message tends to be blunt: “this thing is expensive and the best, and so am I.”

Full+Tag+Shot OTC Recommends: Drakes London

Drakes takes a different approach. A Drakes London tie can be a bit anonymous, in the sense that on the surface it is elegant and exceptionally finished but not “known”. It looks good without announcing its maker, and that’s a nice quality because the tie is noticed over the brand. Their ties are substantial yet soft, well proportioned and timeless in design.

Drakes ties can be found in conservative clothing haunts like Knize in Vienna (which, as the Drakes website points out, is known to be more conservative than the Catholic Church) and cutting edge clothiers such as Comme des Garcons. Here in Washington, D.C., they are carries by William Fox & Co., a true haberdashery. Being somewhat busy these days, I simply hopped on the internet and had one shipped right to me.

My particular Drakes London tie is pictured below – as it arrived from overseas, the excellent packaging and presentation and as it was recently worn to the office.

Drakes+Packaging OTC Recommends: Drakes London
Just arrived

Tissue+Paper OTC Recommends: Drakes London
Hand wrapped in tissue

 OTC Recommends: Drakes London
Off to work

Though on the narrower side, its shape is classic and works well with a variety of suit styles. Knowing that I was wearing something lovingly crafted by an actual person in an actual workshop is a refreshing feeling. Drakes ties are not fast fashion and they are not meant to have a “season,” but rather a lifetime.

On the first day I wore my new neck wear, I received numerous unsolicited compliments from both men and women. The men tended to like the tie’s construction and balanced proportions while the women all loved the quality of the silk and its color combination.

All of these attributes speak to the effort and thought that go into Drakes ties – and that’s a good thing because they are not inexpensive. Of course handmade and hand finished quality is going to cost you, but if you are looking to add one good tie to your wardrobe this one is worth the expense.

Drakes+Madras+Tie+S09 OTC Recommends: Drakes LondonDrakes+Squares+S09 OTC Recommends: Drakes London
Drakes+Socks+S09 OTC Recommends: Drakes LondonDrakes+ScarfS09 OTC Recommends: Drakes London

In addition to ties, Drakes makes a variety of other products including pocket squares, scarves, shirting, belts, and hosiery. The images above are from Drakes’ Spring/Summer 2009 Look Book.

Visit their website at www.Drakes-London.com.

OTC Recommends: Smart Turnout

STO logo OTC Recommends: Smart TurnoutEvery now and then I come across a company that is truly unique and catches my eye. It could be the products or marketing approach. Sometimes it’s their buzz factor or ability to hit the market with the right thing at the right time. In the case of Smart Turnout, it started with a watch band.

Page 195 of the 2007 Esquire Big Black Book showed a picture of a sharp looking Fortis chronograph on a red and blue ribbon watch strap. The strap was unlike any other I had seen. It was a standard looking preppy nylon strap but the band itself was constructed like a NATO watch strap with a decidedly military feel to it. The combination of watch and strap was perfectly ironic: gin and tonic meets Top Gun. According to the copy, the strap was manufactured by Smart Turnout, an English company. I was intrigued.

Smart+Turnout2 OTC Recommends: Smart Turnout
The Smart Turnout Watch

I tracked down that strap at J. Press and when paired with my Tutima chronograph gave me the same look. I wanted to learn more about Smart Turnout and did a little digging. At about the same time, Smart Turnout found me. It seems in doing a web search they ran across an OTC article in which I referenced their company.

In the ensuing exchanges, I wound up learning that Smart Turnout makes a lot more than just watch straps.

The idea for the company came when Philip Turner was nearing the end of his 10 year period in the Scots Guards. Philip was participating in a horse race at Sandown Park in 1992, and had a sweater knitted for the occasion in his regimental colors.

It drew many compliments back at the regiment and gave rise to the idea of developing more clothes in club colors and Smart Turnout was conceived. The company has grown into one which is dedicated to producing a variety of unique products, all fashioned in the colors of the British and U.S. military, schools, and British and American Universities.

Smart Turnout sells a wide range of goods, including ties, cufflinks, cummerbunds, belts and braces, scarves and socks. Starting this season, you can pick up smart webbing belts in the colors of the British Royal Marines and the Black Watch. They are even getting into the sleepwear business with dressing gowns and pajamas in regimental colors.

As a relatively small company, Smart Turnout is looking to expand its reach and broaden its market. In addition to a full service website, its American operation consists of haberdasheries like the aforementioned J. Press stocking a limited selection of items. Personally I want more; I’d like to walk into a Smart Turnout store in, say, Boston. I think that the brand could carry a nice little brick-and-mortar outlet in Bean Town.

yale cufflinks lrg OTC Recommends: Smart Turnout
Smart Turnout Yale Cuff Links

I am especially fond of my Smart Turnout Yale cufflinks; the kind with the chain. When I opened the small blue leather box, I was impressed with their quality and construction. The detail alone in the school’s seal is quite remarkable. In addition to acquiring a couple of additional watch straps, I also have an Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders regimental tie which is pretty sharp too.

Yale+Jumper+Smart+Turnout OTC Recommends: Smart TurnoutHarvard+Jumper+Smart+Turnout OTC Recommends: Smart Turnout
Yale & Harvard Jumpers (Yep, from England)

If you are looking for that old school, old money look, this is the place to start. In many ways it’s a preppy version of the candy store. I don’t often write this extensively about specific brands, but Smart Turnout has really caught my attention because of both the depth and breadth of its offerings. It’s created a real niche for itself and I have not found anything quite like it.

The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

Silver+Pen+Knife The Allure of Sterling Silver AccessoriesGold may be having its heyday in the markets right now, but silver still holds an unmistakable sway over man. The English are renowned for their penchant of silver collecting and companies like Tiffany have built their reputations on it. Silver, sterling silver in particular – which is nice parts silver to one part copper – has a personality and warmth that is difficult to deny.

The scratches and nicks which over time come to define silver objects tell their own story; the patina softens and takes on a unique personality. This trait makes sterling silver an excellent material for special and cherished items. Where gold can seem ostentatious and showy, silver is approachable and more relaxed, perfect for the treasured accessories in your life.

Because I like to travel light whenever possible, a money clip or pen knife is about all I want in my pants pocket. Such personal objects should never be disposable; they are with us each day and become talismans that grow in value beyond currency. Rather than shove spare cash into your pocket or toss any old pen into your bag, why not consider investing in one or two elegant little treasures that have meaning?

Hallmarked+Money+Clip The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

For those loose bills, opt for a sterling money clip; add a monogram and make it an heirloom. Yard-O-Lead makes some wonderful sterling silver pens that will stand out from the conference table crowd – the Viceroy is a favorite model of mine.

Silver+Knot+Links The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

Sterling cuff links are an obvious option. Silver knots or classic monogrammed ovals are always in style. Another wonderful use of sterling is the classic monogrammed engine turned belt buckle. Paired with an alligator strap, there is nothing quite as elegant. For smokers, or merely those wish to be prepared for a chivalrous flourish, a silver Dunhill lighter is indispensable.

Engine+Turned+Buckle The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

Other individualistic options include the silver tie bar, once an obligatory sartorial tool and now enjoying a resurgence of sorts. And, as long as you don’t let it look like a building superintendent’s, a simple silver key chain makes a functional utensil a little more stylish.

A silver card case can be quite sharp and I’ve seen a few people use vintage cigarette cases to hold their business or calling cards. Match the case to your own personality and tastes – either very elaborate or simple in design.

Silver, I know, is not everyone’s cup of tea. To my mind, there are silver people and there are gold people. Usually, it’s fairly easy to figure out who is who; for example, I am a silver person. Apart from a general love of sterling, when it comes to personal accessories, I naturally lean toward silver and stainless steel.

Most of my watches are stainless steel and my wedding band is platinum. Through frameless, the small amount of metal on my glasses is silver colored. I just prefer silver more than gold – the one exception being my signet ring. Bearing my family’s crest, it is my one regular gold accessory.

Monogrammed+Ring The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

It’s not like I’d turn down some gold cuff links or a vintage gold Seamaster, but as a general rule, I find it too showy and formal for my taste. I have inherited a number of lovely gold items – cuff links and notably a wonderful pocketknife that once belonged to my great grandfather. They are special to me because of their personal connection, but when I look to my current wish list, sterling silver is still where my heart’s at.

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Style Guide: The Colors of Summer

Summer+Preppy Style Guide: The Colors of SummerWhen it comes to summer dressing, most men like the idea of adding a little shot of color to their ensemble but are often fearful of overdoing it. When does a little become too much? How can I show some personality without looking like a caricature?

Thinking this over, I am reminded of a fellow I once saw on the street on a steamy summer day. He was wearing the loudest pants I’d ever seen. They looked remarkably like sofa cushions from a 1950s Florida vacation house; bright orange with giant palm fronds and parrots printed all over them. These pants actually hurt my eyes. But the guy wearing them looked cool as a cucumber; relaxed and suave in sockless loafers and a crisp white oxford.

Though most of us would run the other way when presented with such an outfit, it worked on this gentleman because it fit his particular personality. He was at home in that overwhelming cacophony of color and pattern. For the rest of us, spicing up the warm weather wardrobe will likely include less extravagant exercises in color. Dressing for fun and sun is easier on the weekends, but when it comes to the work week, most everyone still need to dress professionally – or at least wear long pants. But there is still room for personal style in manageable increments.

As a general rule, please do not make the mistake of thinking that dressing for summer weather means wearing togs better suited to the beach or a weekend cookout. Office style, whether formal or “business casual” still says a lot about you and your values. so always assume that someone important will need to see you during the day and dress accordingly.

How then do you “responsibly” add that bit of personal color? A favorite option of mine is to use accessories as a way to tone down the formality of office attire while still offering the world a little flash of your style.

Smart+Turnout+Straps Style Guide: The Colors of SummerWatch+Band2 Style Guide: The Colors of Summer
Smart Turnout Watch Straps (left)

Ribbon watch straps a great option, especially for the summer. You’ll be amazed at how a preppy grosgrain or NATO strap can change the whole feel of your favorite wrist watch and by extension soften your overall look and feel. Additionally, these straps give your timepiece a breezy, vintage feel which is popular right now. People will think that your dad wore it back when he was studying archeology at Yale – don’t bother to correct them.

English company Smart Turnout makes some of the best ribbon straps I’ve ever worn. With striped representing British military units to England’s venerable colleges – even a few American Ivy’s – you can find something that fits your personal style. They are easy to swap around, so keep a drawer full and match your watch your watch to your mood. If needed, invest in the little tool that allows you to remove the pins which hold most watch bands in place – it makes life easier.

TB+Lobster+Belt2 Style Guide: The Colors of Summer
Tucker Blair Lobster Belt

Belts are another simple way to add color to your look while falling well within the bounds of great practical style. Tucker Blair needlepoint belts are a unique and thoroughly preppy way to add some fun and color to your summer wardrobe. Though a new company, Tucker Blair’s signature needlepoint belts are a timeless classic in a seaside-y sort of way. Each one is a little work of art and an instant heirloom. They truly are unique and speak to both New England clambakes and Low Country boils.

PRL+Ribbon+Belt Style Guide: The Colors of Summer
Ralph Lauren Ribbon Belt

Ribbon belts are a popular and less expensive way to give your style a little seaside punch. Companies like Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, J. Press, and Gap offer stripes, critters, solids and plaid versions that make choosing one an easy exercise in personal messaging.

M05 38 Style Guide: The Colors of SummerCape+Madras+Shirt Style Guide: The Colors of Summer
Cape Madras Pants & Shirt

Another summer staple of the past that’s getting a new shot of life is patchwork madras. In the States at least, it seemed like back in the day everyone’s father had one of these shirts. Each year it was debuted at the family Memorial Day picnic and was kept busy all summer long.

With every washing the cloth got a little softer and a little more faded – the sign of true madras. It never stopped bleeding, getting mellower year by year. Cape Madras, founded in 2004, has resurrected the real thing and built a unique company that is both dyed in the wool American and dyed in Madras, Indian. While the Cape Madras collection is designed by the creative team in the US, the company weaves all its own fabric designs in rural villages in India. A modern global partner, albeit a small one, the company is dedicated to providing it’s Indian workers with good, creative and long-term jobs.

Also modern is its design approach. Unlike the traditional muted colors one associated with madras, Cape Madras uses colors not usually seen in traditional madras like bright pinks, greens and oranges. With offerings of shirts, shorts, jackets, pants, you can find that classic summery look for any occasion.

To add an extra layer of individuality, choose a signature, something that people will associate with you alone. A relative of mine wears round tortoise shell glasses. Since I can remember, he has always worn them and by now anything else just wouldn’t look right. He is particularly Ivy League in his style of dress, so the glasses give him a living Ralph Lauren ad persona. It’s just right on him. So, what’s your summer signature of personal style?

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Vintage Wrist Watches

Vintage+Omega+Seamaster Vintage Wrist WatchesI noticed on Polo’s Rugby blog that there was a post about the vintage watches being offered at the company’s East Hampton store. Though not the focus of the original post – a shot of some vintage sunglasses in a display case – questions rolled in about the great watches displayed on ribbon bands alongside the sunglasses.

That’s a great example of the emotional power of watches, vintage mechanical ones in particular. I have a few vintage watches, some are family heirlooms and some were purchased. Each one is special and satisfies a particular aspect of my personality. Even the modern watches that I own are almost all mechanical – manual wind or automatic – and tend to be unique rather than flashy.

While traditional leather straps ans steel bracelets are just fine, certainly when they are original to the timepiece, a classic preppy ribbon strap can add flair and Ivy League panache to your wrist. British brand Smart Turnout makes a great version that’s based on the rugged NATO strap design. They come in a range of colors representing English military units and several American Ivy League colleges.

Smart+Turnout+Straps Vintage Wrist Watches
Smart Turnout Watch Bands

When it comes to vintage watches, you can head off to East Hampton, N.Y., and visit the Rugby store or you can track down dealers closer to home. Believe it or not, you can also hit the web in search of sites with good deals and equally important, a good inventory. The great thing about vintage watches is that when you finally find what you’re looking for it is a very personal score.

Here are several websites that I like keep an eye on to see whats coming onto the market. I cannot offer you any guarantees or standards, but the companies below already have excellent reputations.

Cool Vintage Watches
Tic-Tock.com
Yorktime
Second Time Around

If you want to see some exceptional early vintage watches, from say, around 1914, check out Old Wrist Watches.

So take a look around and give it a try; vintage mechanical watches and preppy ribbon straps are great ways to bring some stylish elan to your summer wardrobe.

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