A Windsor of a Question

Great+Outfit A Windsor of a QuestionDear Sir, I apologize for the unsolicited email, but I thought it you might have a free moment you might be able to help with something.

I am about 6 feet tall and prefer the windsor knot. I have noticed that the short end of my tie, once the knot is tied, is much shorter than the long end and cannot be placed in the little holder piece. So my the short end of my tie moves around a lot and is not held in place. It doesn’t look very good. I know some people tuck this piece into their shirts but this just doesn’t seen right to me. I also know that some people use a tie clip but with all due respect that just does not seem right for a 25 year-old. Do you have any other suggestions?

The gentleman above poses an interesting and not too-uncommon question. I have found that for most people, ties seems to be designed to only handle the four-in-hand when is comes to length. Anything else and they seem to run out of length in a flash – as is the case here.

I do know that some tie makers make longer ties, though they can be hard to find and there is no guarantee that one will even like the selection. Brooks Brothers, for example, has a special collection of extra long ties. When I am in a Windsor mood, I have only two ties that I know will work and still let me properly tuck the back blade into its holder.

When going for a Windsor, or even a half-Windsor, I prefer that my ties not be too bulky. Some men always want to see a chunky knot, but to me the full Windsor knot is itself already a bit hefty and I really don’t want to overdo the bulk factor. So, in my case at least all these preferences limit the actual tie options.

Big+knot A Windsor of a Question
The loose Italian take on a Windsor

I’m also a little picky about the rear blade. With whatever knot I tie, I prefer that both the front and rear blade hang about even. It’s a balance issue for me – the lack of relatively equal tie halves, front and back, feels awkward, like I have a big knot around my neck and a lone flap of silk hanging off-center. I don’t like the feeling; it’s like I’m faking it.

Ultimately though, you have to work with what you have and in this case it probably means jury-rigging your ties. I agree that the tie bar option is not a good fit. If nothing else, it would probably sit up too high and look a bit odd. And I agree that in most cases a tie bar worn out of necessity (or even choice) looks more fashiony than classy on a 25 year-old.

If you want to see what a good Windsor knot looks like, take a gander at this recent New York Times piece on the always dapper NYC Police Commissioner Raymond Kelly. The Comish has a particular dedication to the Windsor knot and is also a surprising font of information when it comes to dressing with personal flair.

Ray+Kelly+Knot A Windsor of a Question
Ray Kelly ties one on, under the watchful gaze of T.R.

The easiest option might be to use a small safety pin and tack the errant short piece to the back of your tie. Or, if you’re game (or if your tailor is game) add a second keeper loop further up the tie positioned to always capture the rear blade.

To learn how to tie a Windsor knot, click here to view step-by-step instructions from Brook’s Southern cousin, Ben Silver.

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AA+Tie Fathers Day Sale   Ashley Ashoff TiesI am very happy to announce that Ashley Ashoff is offering OTC readers 30% off of her tie and pocket square collections for Father’s Day.

Ashley’s beautiful ties and squares are a longtime favorite of OTC.

All you have to do is send an e-mail with your order selections to salesinfo@ashleyashoff.com, and mention that you are an Off The Cuff reader.

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Break Out The Ribbon

ribbon belt 2 Break Out The RibbonThe weather is finally kicking into summer mode here in the nation’s capitol, and I’m restocking the OTC closet with a more season-appropriate wardrobe.

Adding color to the mix is standard fare for most women. The flexibility of layering it on while still maintaining a professional or at least classy level of style is a distinct female advantage. For many men, it’s a trickier gambit; how to imbue one’s look with a bit of vibrant personality without looking cartoonish?

While this discussion will cover several areas, right now let’s focus on a favorite option of mine – ribbon belts and watch straps. These flexible and relatively inexpensive accessories are a great way to tone down the formality of office attire while still offering the world a little flash of your personal style.

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J. Press

Ribbon watch straps are an incredibly easy way to change both your look and your outlook. Inherently summery, you’ll be amazed at how a preppy grosgrain or NATO strap can change the whole feel of your favorite wrist watch.

Additionally, these straps give your timepiece a breezy, hand-me-down feel which is popular right now. A casual observer might think that your dad wore that vintage looking Omega back when he was studying archeology at Yale – don’t bother to correct him.

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Smart Turnout

Just make sure to measure the watch’s “lug width.” That’s the distance between the two horns which hold your watch’s strap in place. Typical widths fall in the 18-20 millimeter range and you will want to try and get a strap in the matching size. And avoid chunky watches, they look and feel out of proportion to the thin strap.

English company Smart Turnout makes some of the best ribbon straps I’ve ever worn. Most of their offerings are 18mm. With striped bands representing British military units and England’s venerable colleges – even a few American Ivys – you can easily find something that fits your personal style.

Smart+Turnout+Strap Break Out The Ribbon
Smart Turnout

They are easy to swap around, so keep a drawer full and match your watch your watch to your mood. If needed, invest in the little tool that allows you to remove the pins which hold most watch bands in place – it makes life easier.

Ribbon belts are another simple way to add color to your look while falling well within the bounds of great practical style. Lightweight and casual, they are a great option for adding a bit of punch or distinctiveness to an otherwise plain outfit. An overly dressy belt is one of those things that can drag a summer/weekend outfit down, even “casual” leather belts that are better suited to jeans.

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J. Press

Ribbon belts are also an inexpensive way to give your style a little seaside punch. Companies like Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, J. Press and Vineyard Vines offer stripes, critters, solids and plaid versions that make choosing one an easy exercise in personal messaging. These patterned options are well matched to the traditional summer solids of navy, white and khaki.

Plaid Summer1 Break Out The RibbonGTH+Belt+Look Break Out The Ribbon
Good examples of matching patterns & colors

It’s also a creative way to throw a subtle sartorial curve ball in the workplace. On occasion, I’ve worn my J. Press blue and white narrow striped ribbon belt with an otherwise typical gray business suit. It’s a neat little twist and frankly, some people don’t even notice.

ribbon belt 1 Break Out The Ribbon
Italian cool

Solid ribbon belts are a great choice if you want a casual touch but still like the idea of keeping it a bit more subtle. Solids also work best when you don’t want to compete with another key article of clothing – madras short or a patterned shirt for example.

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Summer Argyle

ST+Argyle+Socks Summer ArgyleI have always tended to think of argyle as an Autumn thing.

To me at least, argyle’s fundamental overlapping diamond motif has a certain heavy warmth which reminds me of bundling up on crisp mornings to walk the dog. Maybe it’s the historic pattern’s Scottish heritage or its current prevalence in sweaters and thick socks, but it just makes me think “warmth.”

This is not a bad thing, just a stylistic association that I never much thought about. Then, a few weeks ago, my friends over at Smart Turnout, a favorite OTC brand, let me know that they were adding argyle socks to their already extensive and colorful lineup. A short while later a pair of the RAF argyles (shown above) arrived at my door.

I have generally tried to avoid touting lots of brands on OTC, mostly because I like what I like and have never tried to be shopping resource. I don’t want to have to run through 18 options for great khakis when I like Bill’s Khakis and that’s that. Like Bill’s and Smart Turnout, several keep popping up because they make excellent products that reflect OTC’s own brand and sense of style. With that in mind, my cold weather argyle philosophy went out the window once I pulled on these socks.

One of my beefs with argyle socks is that they always seem to feel a bit stiff and bulky. The weaving process often leaves the sock’s interior a tad bumpy and, to me, unappealing. These are smooth and seamless without any sense of bulk. I fact I’m wearing them right now and feel comfortably summery.

As a fan of regionally crafted goods, it’s also nice to hear that they are a truly English product – from the raw material to the hand finishing.

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Valentine’s Day Deals From OTC Favorites

Still looking for that perfect St. Valentine’s Day gift? Two of Off The Cuff’s favorite brands are offering some nice discounts. Each of these companies also have great options for both the ladies and gentlemen in your life, so make sure to visit their websites and take a look!

Tucker+Blair+Flag+Belt Valentines Day Deals From OTC Favorites
Tucker Blair’s American Flag Needlepoint Belt

Master of the preppy needlepoint belt Tucker Blair is offering free shipping on all purchases. Just use the promotional code “valentines09″.

AALogo+Tie Valentines Day Deals From OTC Favorites
Ashley Ashoff Monogram Silk Tie

Ashley Ashoff, who makes elegantly timeless handmade neck wear and scarves, is offering OTC readers 20% off all purchases. E-mail customerservice@ashleyashoff.com directly to place an order.

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