British Heritage Brand Turf Legends

turf legends logo 300x106 British Heritage Brand Turf LegendsWhen Stuart King co-founded Turf Legends back in 2008, his goal was to create a clothing brand that reflected the storied history of British steeplechase. He wanted to pay homage to the sport’s great horses and their riders in a way that conveyed his love for this sport and its historical importance.

Steeplechase is a bruising luxury. As a brand, Turf Legends has wonderfully captured this spirit of the sport, and of the men who have literally risked their lives in such a spirited and enviable fashion. As a lifestyle concept, steeplechase fits perfectly with the core elements of classic British country style. It speaks of landed elegance combined with the earthy practicality of a life dedicated to the turf and cherished animals.

TL Red Rum Shirt British Heritage Brand Turf LegendsWhere Ralph Lauren might create an elegantly fictitious history to lend style and implied meaning to a shirt, Turf Legends focuses on the real thing. Their range of beefy rugbys and soft polos are based on the real silks worn by real riders from the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s. A modern concession was made for Desert Orchid, the beloved winner of the Cheltenham Gold Cup in 1989.

OTC had the chance to test out a few shirts at length over the past few months (this review had to wait until cooler weather made the rugby season-appropriate – we are sticklers) and they have become some of our favorites. Well-made and well designed, they capture the spirit and iconography of horse racing while not tipping over into the realm of kitsch.

Even the big Turf Legends “TL” logo of our Navy Sash Polo seems natural and appropriate. While clearly the brand’s logo, it is also a badge of sorts, conveying the authenticity of the shirt’s roots and purpose. And each one of their shirts has roots, celebrating the colors of such steeds as Arkle, Red Rum and Golden Miller.

Desert Orchid Tag British Heritage Brand Turf LegendsAs an added nod to the company’s genuine love of this sport, the brand’s historical ambassador is the legendary horseman, Dick Rees. Rees was one of the great jockeys of the 1920s and ‘30s, known for his sartorial elegance and style both in and out of the saddle. He was also the winner of the inaugural Gold Cup in 1924.

To our minds, the shirts themselves are worth every penny, or in this case, pound. They are sturdy yet comfortable and chock full of interesting details such as logoed lining tape, Union Jack or Irish Tricolour flag depending on the horse, Dick Rees’ signature and the occasional locker loop. Some features are truly unique, like the Turf Legends ‘brand label’ that mimics an old style bookies ticket.

Each shirt also comes with a small information booklet which includes a brief summary of the horse’s career and describes why the horse is included in the Turf Legends collection – a really cool and meaningful feature. At £62.50 for a rugby shirt, less for a polo or tee, they are not inexpensive. However, these shirts are built to last and age with real style. Also, wearing a Turf Legends polo, rugby or tee has the added benefit of letting you stand out in from the ‘pretend authentic heritage’ crowd.

The company does not distribute in the United States, so orders can be placed through Turf Legends’ website. If you happen to be visiting Great Britain, you can find a local stockiest here. Note that along with the address and store name, you can also find a link to the nearest race course.

 

Michael Bastian + Randolph Engineering

RE+MB Sportsman 300x194 Michael Bastian + Randolph EngineeringAward winning designer Michael Bastian recently joined forces with eye wear maker Randolph Engineering, provider of classic aviator specs to the U.S. military, to give a fresh take on classic sunglasses.

The 2011 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year and head of design at Gant by Michael Bastian, reinterpreted five of Randolph Engineering’s classic frames.  OTC favorites include the gold-tone Sportsman and  Signature Aviator II in chrome with mirrored lenses.

The great thing about these classic, timeless and unabashedly masculine sunglasses is that they get the job done while pretty much never go out of style.  However, don’t wait too long because the MB+RE collaboration is around for limited time and only runs through the end of 2011.

You can order yourself a pair here, or better yet, how about winning a pair for free!

Randolph Engineering and OTC are going to give away pair of RE+MB sunglasses to one lucky OTC reader.  Learn more by checking out the contest on our Facebook page.

 

Suiting Up With Proper Suit

IMG 0019 300x199 Suiting Up With Proper SuitOTC recently met with Richard Hall and McGregor J. Madden, co-owners of custom clothier Proper Suit.  While there are a lot of “custom” suit makers out there these days, Proper Suit, as a brand and a process, is uniquely impressive.

A near obsessive love of design, fit, quality and style is one of the distinctive traits I’ve observed in many of the legendary designers and clothiers I’ve had the chance to meet over the years.  Alan Flusser, Jon Green, Joseph Abboud and Frank Muytjens all live menswear, 24/7.  It’s their passion and it’s a remarkable thing to see in action.  That kind of dedication also explains why each is so good at what he does.

IMG 0020 199x300 Suiting Up With Proper SuitI bring this up because Richard and McGregor both exude the same level of obsession.  Unlike some other nascent suit makers, too often former investment bankers seeking only a new market, these guys absolutely love what they do.

They don’t simply want to sell you a suit, they want to sell you the best suit they can and make you love the process.

One of the things which most impressed me is that these guys have the experience to back up their sales pitch.  Both gentleman have spent several years in China, learning the tailoring business – and the language – from the ground up.  Working with technical and operations experts, they created a state-of-the-art facility which marries old world hand tailoring with laser guided automation.

Jon Green this is not.  But they are not trying to be Jon Green.  Proper Suit is geared toward young professionals looking to make a solid investment in a suit tailored just for them.  And this is where Richard and McGregor truly shine.  It has been a long time since I have been so thoroughly measured and analyzed.  They travel with a bag full of sample suits, fabric swatches, linings and buttons and have an organized, tested system.

otcselection 300x200 Suiting Up With Proper SuitOf all the custom/made-to-mesure brands we have come across, Proper Suit walks the talk and looks good doing it.  After learning about the brand and its founders, talking through the process and picking out all the details, we are seriously impressed.  The official OTC suit is in production at this very moment.

We chose a mid-weight three-season worsted in navy, with dark brown horn buttons and a red lining lining for the suit jacket.  A complimentary interior trim fabric in a light blue-grey, ads a subtle tweak.  We even added a hidden “OTC” under the jacket’s collar.  Can’t wait to show it to you in the review post; coming soon.

Want to get your own suit from Proper Suit?  Set up an appointment and learn more.

 

Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style

Preppy Cover 226x300 Preppy: Cultivating Ivy StyleWhen first reading my copy of Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style, I was reminded of how omnipresent the whole preppy thing has become.

OTC hit the internet back in 2005.  Back then, there were very few men’s fashion blogs out there.  And there were even fewer sites dedicated to the preppy/Ivy League/East Coast style so familiar to me.

Over the intervening years, the appeal of preppy style and East Coast lifestyle – at least as seen through the eyes of Lisa Birnbach – gained wider appeal and the proliferation of online experts and opinion-makers ensued.  Back in the 1980s, when The Preppy Handbook first gave birth to a new, aspirational preppy phenomenon, the style was bombastic and over the top, colorful and caricatured.   Today, it’s serious business.  And I mean that both figuratively and literally.

Companies from J. Crew to Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers to J. Press are all rediscovering their uber-preppiness.  New smaller brands that fancy themselves cultural artisans and holders of the “true” preppy standard are popping up by the day.  Of all these modern labels only Brooks Brothers, J. Press and L.L. Bean can really lay claim to a physical connection to the genuine preppy aesthetic.  At the same time, many fashion bloggers and armchair fashion historians extol the virtues of being “authentic” focusing on “heritage” brands.

I’ve seen some of this exuberant tut-tutting in the reviews of Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style and find it a little perplexing.  Some are critical of the book’s lack of historical gravitas and its apparent concession to modern (and apparently blasphemous) interpretations of preppy style.  Too much Ralph Lauren – that’s not authentic prep!  Does that make Polo/Ralph Lauren, founded twilight years of original Preppy, any less preppy?  Is it less authentic?  Of course not, Polo is the bedrock of modern preppy style.

All of this came quickly to mind as I unpacked the book, sent to me through the kindness of its authors, and started to leaf through the pages.  I, and several other bloggers mentioned or quoted in the book have been aware of its development since last year.  When I was contacted for permission to use a quote from my Roots of American Preppy article – for the introduction no less – I was intrigued.  I liked the idea  behind the book and the authors’ approach to creating a modern understanding of the style.

Turns out I also like the book.  Preppy Cover2 225x300 Preppy: Cultivating Ivy StyleIn fact, I think it’s a great resource for anyone looking to better understand and adopt preppy style.  Preppy’s authors, very aware of bloggers’ influence and impact on modern preppy style, also reached out to some of the leading online influencers and mined our archives and writings.  That perspective adds to the larger picture of preppy style today.

I don’t know if some people were expecting the Ivy League equivalent of Alan Flusser’s Dressing The Man -  a book so detailed, complete and authoritative as to garner only criticisms about its obsessive detail.  This book is more of an elegant and somewhat contextual style guide that shows you how to dress and accessorize in the preppy fashion.  It’s not an exhaustive tome dedicated to the intricate nuances of preppy culture and history, pedigree and monogramming rules.  Rather, it is a visual reference for achieving the preppy aesthetic.

Preppy runs the gamut of Ivy League influences and trends, styles, luminaries and brands.  It also goes somewhere most books on this subject do not – to modern times.  Photos from Fred Castleberry are mixed with references to the gritty cool urbanity of Street Etiquette.com.  Modern influences have taken the preppy look in new directions, J.Crew being the standard bearer of the “New Prep.”  In fact, even though J.Crew strives to break its generic “preppy” label, no other brand has so forcefully defined what kids today understand to be preppy.

What makes the preppy style of today so resilient and ubiquitous is that it’s not static – it’s not the old 1980s caricature.  Through style blogs and social media, consumers have decided what they like and how they want to blend looks and even eras.  Creating personal signature looks by blending new and old brands, mass market and small run specialty pieces, old school preppy and new school ironic keeps things fresh.

And that’s the way is should be.  “Real” American preppy has always been about practically, function and quality.  Together, those elements yielded the timeless and classic looks we so covet today.  From bags to dogs, footwear to navy blazers, preppies created a distinctive style by finding what worked, sticking with it and evolving to include new elements that matched their style.  Same thing with this book.

Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style takes vintage and modern preppy, blends them up and gives us the recipe for achieving a look, a style and, sort of, a life style.  It’s a lovely book and a great addition to a collection or coffee table.

 

A Tale of Two Wallets

Waskerd Wallet Row Wwords 300x161 A Tale of Two WalletsFrom billfolds to pocket secretaries to slim card cases, a wallet is one of the most personal items a man carries. In addition to credit cards and cash, IDs and licenses, your wallet is often home to those personal scraps of memory and nostalgia unique to you. Unlike your bag, your shoes or even the clothes on your back, a wallet tends to a long-term investment, a personal relationship. It’s so personal that for some guys it never crosses their mind to get a new one unless prompted by sheer necessity.

The wallet I have carried for more than a decade is from R. Horns, in Vienna – a maker of wonderful leather goods. It is a classic international billfold with two currency sections and eight credit card slots. The rich nutty brown leather, darkened with age and quite thick is still soft. I love it. But it’s not always what I need; sometimes I just want to carry a few cards and other times I want a sort of portable home base to capture all the ephemera of my life.

Over the past couple of months, I’ve been testing a few outstanding options – here are two standouts.

Billykirk 217 Open 300x225 A Tale of Two WalletsFrom Billykirk, the New York-based leather goods company I have my home base; the No. 217. It’s a big, beautiful zip card/coin wallet that features 12 card slots, 2 interior main compartments and 1 zipped coin pouch. At first stiff and solid, it quickly softened molded to my hand, and to whatever was inside.

Founded by brothers and business partners Kirkland and Christopher Bray, Billykirk makes elegantly functional leather products that combine the best of substance and style.  Most of the manufacturing takes place in Lancaster Country, PA, by Amish craftsman whose attention to detail is genuinely outstanding.

The No. 217 holds all of my cards, receipts, notes, slips of papers and on occasion, my iPhone. Although not dissimilar to a women’s clutch (my wife has tried to adopt it a few times) it is very much a man’s wallet. I’ve found it to be a perfect travel wallet, great for keeping track of all my loose stuff.

It’s also just plain beautiful and something that will likely be passed down at some point (no time soon however).

When I do not need to have access to all my cards, change and cash I now switch gears and pull out a handy, trim and equally outstanding little wallet. The three-pocket Astoria from Waskerd is another great example of a renewed interest in low-impact craftsmanship.

Waskerd Astoria in Hereford 300x240 A Tale of Two WalletsSimilar to the production methods of bag maker Will Lisak of ETWAS, all the wallets are handmade by founder Derek Shaw, a self-taught leatherman.

“I was born and raised in Texas and my grandfather raised cattle for a living. I remember waking up with him before the sun came up to help him feed the cows. I have had a fondness of cows and leather ever since. I love leather in its natural state – imperfections and all. I love the smell of leather. I love the feel of it, and more than anything, I love how quality leather patines and forms from handling and use. When I began making wallets I wanted to incorporate some my grandfather and his love for cattle in my work.”

Says Shaw, “almost all of the names of my products have very personal meaning. I’ve lived in Astoria, NY, Bloomfield, PA, and Newport News, VA. Each city and stage in my life has brought me to where I am now and influenced who I am.”

Depending on your needs any one of these gets the job done. Whatever type of wallet you choose, in whichever configuration best matches your needs, choose something you really like. A wallet, like all your personal effects should be an investment. Invest wisely.

Tagged with: