Thanks are also due to our photographer par excellence, Mr. Steven Ritchie, and Mrs. OTC for her invaluable guidance when it comes to ties and choice of image entries (and, frankly, everything else).

Brooks Brothers is an American institution when it comes to classic Ivy League and American preppy styles, but it also leads the way in connecting with a new generation of customers fluent in Facebook, Twitter, blogs, and mobile e-commerce.  While we celebrate and promote the many outstanding start-up and boutique brands helping to redefine the best in menswear and American style, historic and invaluable brands like Brooks Brothers continue to set important benchmarks towards which we all race.

Last year, OTC ran a series of in-depth articles on the history and importance of Brooks Brothers.  Please take a moment and have a read:

Brooks Brothers: American Icon (Part I)
Brooks Brothers: American Icon (Part II)
Brooks Brothers: American Icon (Part III)
Brooks Brothers: American Icon (Part IV)

And neither are our friends.  Keep reading to learn how you can win too – your very own Frank Clegg coin wallet just for supporting the effort!

Even though our support has been strong, there is still one more day of voting on Brooks Brothers’ site, so please make sure to like our photo!

As an added bonus, our good friend master leather designer Frank Clegg is giving away a handmade coin wallet to one lucky winner of his own contest.  To enter, just like our “Dandiest at the Derby 2012″ photo.

So, help OTC take home the brass ring and get yourself a handmade treasure from Frank Clegg!

One of the exciting side effects brought about by the sustained and evolving resurgence in menswear, elegantly executed lifestyles, and well-crafted luxury goods, is the recent release of some great new books geared toward men.

For the past several years, there has been a coffee table drought of sorts; a lack of interesting books devoted to mens style.  Alan Flusser’s contributions are de facto bibles when it comes to elegant dressage and, as he so eloquently coined it, “permanent style.”  However, few titles have been able to give him a worthwhile nudge on the bookshelf.

Things changed in 2009, when “Take Ivy” was published.  Previously beloved as a cult classic in the fashion world, the Japanese language book was republished in English.  The publisher was stunned with the intense demand once word got out.  Apparently, men were starving for quality style guides and substantive books filled with interesting, useful, historical, and practical information about how to dress, how to live, what to drink, and how to behave.

Authors obliged.  Some of the weak offerings were no more than a collection of generalizations and pictures of people on boats and sitting on tartan chairs.  Others, like the impressive “Preppy,” sought to delve deep into the fashion and philosophy of the preppy lifestyle.  “The Ivy League,” a stunning new book, which will be reviewed soon on OTC, captures both the style and culture of the Ivy League world.  It prompted a deep reflection on this editor-in-chief’s own upbringing and resulted in a major article currently undergoing final edits.  Finally, the quality of menswear books is beginning to meet demand.

Perhaps the most interesting book to land on our doorstep is “The Gentry Man: A Guide for the Civilized Male.”

Gentry was a landmark magazine for men from the 1950s, which covered all aspects of gentlemanly pursuits.  It lead with a distinct worldly, intellectual approach; a cross between today’s Esquire and Monocle magazines.

From cocktails to suiting, automobiles to academic treatises.  Art, culture, and travel mingles with fashion and interior design. It was a magazine for the thinking man’s dandy. Playboy, but without the nudity.

Editor Hal Rubenstein collected some of the best articles from the magazine’s 22 issues – far too brief a run. Of course the technology is out of date and the fashions a touch stodgy, but that is beside the point.  The hefty book, 256 pages, is divided into distinct sections that take advantage of the subject matter’s depth and breadth: Style; Homes, Cars, and Travel; Food and Drink; Sports and Culture; and Art and Architecture.  Thomas Crowne likely read Gentry.

Much of the advice perfectly relevant for today, especially the underlying message of gentlemanlyness and intellectual curiosity. These are the hallmarks of a true man and this wonderful book is a guide-cum-historical reference for those seeking to put some substance behind their style.

The Gentry Man goes on sale May 8, 2012.

Mark your menswear calendar for this Saturday, April 28.  Confirmed Stock is hosting it’s debut pop-up retail event at the 2640 Space in Baltimore, Maryland’s Charles Village neighborhood.

OTC is proud to support and promote this outstanding event, conceived, created, and brought to life by Charm City locals.  Chock full of creative and innovative menswear clothing, accessories, and dry goods brands, Confirmed Stock is set to become the Mid-Atlantic’s keystone menswear event.

The mission of Confirmed Stock is to present a well-curated selection of high quality and mostly American-made goods from some of the best brands around.  For more information on this exciting event, including hours and directions, please click here.

The products on offer at Confirmed Stock are things you can feel good about, from businesses and people you’ll feel good about supporting.  In many cases you’ll be able to shake the hand of the person who made your item.

Some outstanding brands are set to be part of this pop-up, (including a few you have seen profiled on OTC): Almanac Industries, Ball and Buck, Blue Claw Co., Cause and Effect, Corter Leather, CXXVI, Federal, Fischer Clothing, Greenwich Vintage Co., Hellbrand Leatherworks, Jack Robie, Lumina Clothing, Mister Crow, Randolph Engineering, Ruell and Ray, Sandtown Millworks, Sixteen Tons, and Two Inch Cuffs.

To learn more about the brands participating in Confirmed Stock, click here.

A few years ago, the International Herald Tribune ran a story about a seismic shift in Italian fashion standards.

Some Italian companies were allowing their male employees to go tieless, and even suitless, during the summer months as a way to help fight climate change. Not requiring a tie might equate to less demand for office air conditioning, which in turn could help reduce overall demand for electricity. (More recently, Chile’s energy minister promoted the same idea.)

While probably a non-issue in the casual-fixated United States, Romans and Milanese ditching their ties at work was no small matter. Those ever so elegantly-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for the summer? Well, the story made it to the IHT, didn’t it?

Though interesting from a cultural perspective, this story is an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. With Earth Day 2012 only a few hours behind us, this is a wonderful teaching moment and the lesson is this: focusing on classic style does actually help the environment – as it should.

When you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made; I mean a purchase that is well thought out. When being self-aware about what you buy and thoughtfully editing your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that eventually winds up in a landfill.

For the most part, clothing – whether dress or casual – is now cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of manufacturing, transporting, storing, selling, and, eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.

As opposed to Americans, most Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.

Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are the things we should always consider before pulling out the wallet.

As seen here, an Italian ditching his tie or swapping out a suit will most likely still look naturally sharp, without having to run to the department store for a new “corporate casual” wardrobe. It is probable that his wardrobe already has a purpose and a sense of continuity and relationship among its components.

Redefining how you dress is not, as they say, rocket science. But it does take some time and effort. Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that get thrown out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While often expensive, a well-made suit or custom shirt will last for years. A classically styled bespoke blazer or suit will always transcend fashion and adjustments can be made as your dimensions change.

By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste and duplication. And apart from environmental considerations, when your wardrobe consists of items that fit, are well-made, and possess a timeless and stylish quality, you will wear them.

Certain brands, like Slowear, actually design their clothes to not go out of style. Slowear’s family of classically-focused labels evoke a culture of sustainable luxury. They want you purchase a pair of Incotex trousers or a Glanshirt shirt and keep them for years; sacrificing volume for long-term brand devotion. By focusing on the design and construction of their garments, Slowear is able to market what Alan Flusser refers to as “permanent style.”

Reducing your retail carbon footprint extends to accessories as well. Why cycle through five or 10 cheap to mid-grade briefcases or day bags when you could take a little time, define what it is you really want in a bag and then invest in one or two of heirloom quality?

For example, this Frank Clegg English Brief will not only never go out of style, it will become more desirable the more it gets used. It’s the type of bag everyone is always looking for and while not inexpensive, it is a solid capital investment.

Choose ties you love and that pair well with a variety of shirts and jackets. Pick up several pocket squares which can quickly add flair and personality to a tieless suit or odd jacket. Make certain style elements your signature and stick to what works with your body type, skin tone, personality and lifestyle.

That, in a nutshell, is the point of classic personal style. By making choices that take into account long-term investment and near-term benefit, building a wardrobe and curated collection of accessories reduces waste and increases value.

If nothing else, it also clears out your clutter and allows you focus on the things that truly matter. The items in your life should be those that you cherish and want to have around, they should each have a purpose and, to me at least, a story.  And when you present your best self to the world – in your dress and with your accessories – you really do tend to be a better person.

Founded by former White House press officer Peter Watkins, the idea for Sette (the number seven in Italian) came when he had the chance to spend some time with the Italian prime minister’s personal tie maker.  Seeing the opportunity to create equally elegant neckwear for American dignitaries, luminaries, social and media leaders, and business executives, Watkins outlined his somewhat audacious plan and went looking for a craftsman capable of bringing it to life.  Enter designer Robert Jensen.

Bob Jensen has been at the forefront of high-end neckwear for more than 30 years.  Apprenticed to legendary American neckwear icon Robert Talbott in 1979, he quickly became a leading force behind Robert Talbott’s global presence and the designs of its iconic neckties.

By the mid-1980s, Jensen was lead designer at Robert Talbott and was the first to bring back to the fashion world the traditional method of creating a seven-fold necktie.  A complex and exacting task, only a very few artisans have perfected the skill, and even fewer the level of Bob Jensen.

Now Sette’s lead designer, Jensen has elevated the seven-fold necktie to yet another level, one that makes it an heirloom; something to be cherished and passed down father to son.  Crafted in limited editions, each tie is designed, cut, folded, stitched, and finished by hand to exacting standards.  Every element of the design is thought through – even to the point of printing the Sette label into the tie’s design.  The tie’s keeper is the only separate element that breaks the continuous flow silk.  Even the bar tacks are shaped into a number “7″.

Even the tie’s packaging is carefully considered.  Hand-folded and hand-placed into a beautiful presentation box, your Sette tie is less a purchase than it is an investment in the art of dressing well for life.

We encourage you to see for yourself the design, quality, and elegance which are the hallmarks of Sette neckties.  Tomorrow – Saturday, April 21, 2012, from 12:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m., the Sette trunk show will ensconce itself at the legendary Washington, D.C., Mayflower Hotel, in the Delaware Board Room.

Email concierge (at) setteneckwear (dot) com, or tweet Sette at @SetteNeckwear and they will set you up.

As the former CEO of Chrome bags and with a handful of other start-ups under his belt, ranging from real estate to high-tech, he knew how to drive down cost, outsource production and maximize return.  And, in starting a made in the USA clothing line built around classic everyday staples, he chose to ignore all of that profit maximizing experience.  Really, no kidding.

For someone genuinely fascinated by how companies operate, mission and vision philosophies, economic strategy, marketing and brand development, and the business of style (as is yours truly), Bayard is a great interview.

Perhaps his philosophy was best summed up when he pointed out that he had no interest in making a $300 pair of American jeans for a heritage brand-focused customer.  It didn’t excite him.  But, making the best possible crew neck sweatshirt and retail it for $59, now that was a challenge!

He and his team, based out of San Fransisco, are fixated on “the best.”  The best fit, the best design, the best materials, and the best construction.  They have recreated the sweatshirt of James Dean and Steve McQueen – the one that you stole from your big brother back in 1975 and never gave back.

More than just the product, obviously important in any retail endeavor, they also want to create the best customer service experience.  From ordering to packaging, Bayard wants you to love American Giant.  As an internet-based retailer, that’s vital.  Have they achieved this rather lofty goal?  We think so.

Remember the old-fashioned, heavy duty sweats that seemed to last forever?  The well-made sweatshirt that felt sturdy and tough but also soft and comfortable?  They nailed it.  The good news is that they plan to roll out some other product soon.  Next in line; t-shirts.

The American Giant team sent along a hoodie and button cardigan (who knew that was so cool?) for our review and not only are they now default loafing-about wear, they are a sort of inspiration.  The design and construction are both excellent and well thought-out.  Trim, yes.  But faux-retro “heritage fit” – often code for “skinny teen fit” – no.  American Giant sweats are meant to be on the lightly fitted side so that you are comfortable, but not ballooning.  The XL is perfect for an average sized 5’10” editor-in-chief, and the details are many.  A pieced design that allows for movement and flexibility, just enough body length to stay in place when reaching or stretching, thick ribbing at the waist and sleeves, and rock solid construction to age well.

They have not simply fallen into the whole heritage schtick, they have honored a classic wardrobe item that in many ways is a cypher of American casual style.  What did Rocky Balboa wear for his run up the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s 72 steps?  Tough, reliable, and all American grey sweats.

That is the essence of a sweatshirt – crew neck, hoodie, cardigan; put it on and get something done.  Build a boat, run some errands, plan your future, or grab a beer and sit in the back yard.  A good sweatshirt works with anything.  Washing the car with jeans, your favorite Pink Floyd t-shirt, Vineyard Vines ball cap, and some old docksiders?  Perfect.  Khakis, loafers, and an ancient LL Bean hunting coat on a chilly afternoon.  Looks fine.

You can also put it on, curl up in bed sick as a dog, and conduct and interview with American Giant’s CEO.  Wore that thing for two days.

With a variety of styles, colors, designs, and thicknesses for men and women, Dahlgren socks are a great addition to your casual wardrobe. They are durable and well-made, hold their colors and most importantly, hold their shape.

OTC has spent a couple of weeks road testing their Metro argyle socks and the verdict is in. They are some of the best and most comfortable socks we have ever worn. Actually, they are being worn right now, in navy. They are an excellent match for jeans or khakis and the rich, muted colors are a welcome reprieve when you don’t want to shout, “Look, I’m preppy!” with your socks.

Unlike other argyles we have tried, these thin, comfortable socks – a blend of superfine alpaca and merino wools – have a great, supportive fit that adds no bulk or ridging. Using Dahlgren’s ECO-Dri™ and patented Dri-Stride® technologies, these socks also work to keep your feet dry and happy.

Made completely in the USA, these socks are a family affair and the company is now being led by its second generation of Dahlgrens. And where some brands use terms like “technical” and “innovative” as marketing fill, these folks mean it. Dahlgren owns six patents related to actual innovations made in sock technology. Their Dri-Stride® technology, most evident in the firm, supportive fit of the sock’s body, is explained here.

After tossing around some options, we settled on an iPad case; one that could easily fit into a briefcase or be carried alone, have a classic design, and be right at home in the boardroom.  What we didn’t want was something flashy and overdone, just a little elegance to balance out its utilitarian nature. Frank suggested we modify his iPad case using a different leather and a touch of  alligator for the slip-in tab.

He also suggested we pair the OTC iPad case with a matching alligator iPhone sleeve. iPads and iPhones are common tools that require some degree of protection, and for those who prefer to keep their technology open and un-encased, the options are at times uninspired. The idea was to create a practical ensemble that would make sense for every day use.

So, how did they turn out? Beautifully.

There is a masculine, classic quality to both OTC x Frank Clegg pieces that speaks of a refined elegance made practical.  These are simple designs, which are often the most difficult to execute due to the obviousness of any defect.

The iPad case’s wax-infused harness belting leather is dense and sturdy, but also soft and incredibly pliable.  The unique alligator tab adds just the right amount of show but is well-balanced by the case’s body. Flashy this is not.  The stitching, construction, and attention to detail are all exacting.

The iPhone sleeve is an unexpected favorite.  The exterior is constructed entirely of book matched alligator and lined in the same wax-infused harness belting leather, but here almost paper thin. The phone easily slips in and out yet remains snugly in place when inside.  It’s inherent elegance is in fact a foil to the iPad case’s reserve.

With the iPhone sleeve we have a true luxury item; one that could, as alligator often does, scream, “notice me!”  Instead, because of its size and simplicity, it’s more of a discreet, “yes, I’m handmade.”  As you might suspect, we here at OTC are not ones to typically anthropomorphize things  They are simply that good.

Frank did a superb job and created luxurious accessories that have been used every day since the box arrived from Fall River, Ma.  They regularly garner stares and comments, compliments and questions – mostly, “where did you get those?”

A true artisan, Frank Clegg is not new to this business and you can read more about him and his background in an earlier OTC article.

His expansive skill set and perpetual design aesthetic means that he can customize almost any of his existing designs and create whole-cloth new collections with little difficulty.  It is a natural passion.  Prefer green signature tumbled leather over chestnut belting harness? No problem.  Need a shoulder strap with a 13 inch drop instead of 15 inch?  They can do that.

Want a set just like OTC’s?  Just give him a call – and more than likely, he’ll be the one to answer the phone.  But be quick, this is a very limited edition run.

Additional views below…