On occasion, Off the Cuff welcomes contributions from the eternally elegant Hugo Jacomet, of the equally swanky blog Parisian Gentleman.

Today, we are delighted to publish the English translation of an article written by Paul, a loyal PG reader. Ripense is a Roman bespoke label not widely known in France or the United States, but which, according to our reader/reporter, is worth visiting for the impeccable quality of its work on suits, shirts and even shoes.

This excellent article also reminds us that there are many, many craftsmen who produce clothing, footwear and other luxury goods equal to, and frankly often superior to, the mass-market luxury brands so familiar to us.  Don’t just opt for a well-financed advertising campaign, look for quality, reputation, detail and dedication to craft.  Yes, it takes time and a little courage. And sometimes it’s more expensive, but sometimes surprisingly less so.

The RIPENSE House in Rome
By Paul F.

A few meters away from the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps sits the boutique that has impressed me the most since I have become interested in the craftsmanship and making of bespoke clothing.

La Via di Ripetta is not on the itinerary list of the typical tourist, even though it is located only a street away from la Via del Corso.

In fact, my steps were guided to this street by a Christmas present: the excellent Vuitton travel book 2010 for Rome, which includes a section on men’s clothing stores worth visiting.

The article raved about the Ripense house and mentioned it could grant one’s every wish: from shirt to shoe horn or elegant umbrella, a cashmere sweater, or a pair of crocodile shoes.

I may venture into saying that my knowledge of bespoke has increased throughout the years, since I acquired my first JLR shirts and my Handson suit.

I’ve since tried JLR, Tailorstore, Tailormail, Lucca, Courtot, Charvet and Ripense shirts as well as Handson, Smuggler, Marc Guyot, Michael Ohnona, David Diagné, Gieves and Hawkes, Camps de Luca and Ripense suits.

To me, Ripense offers by far the best value for the money spent among all of them. Case in point: A Loro Piana super 160 suit for 2500 €.

Of course one must add Paris/Rome round trips to the bill, but let’s all agree that there are more unpleasant constraints in life than meandering through the steep streets of Italy’s capital.

Right from the start, the window display is a delight to look at and hints at all the choices that amateurs of sartoria will find behind the doors.

I rang the doorbell and was greeted by an older man who had quietly climbed the stairs from the basement workshop to greet me in Italian. I knew very little Italian back then and we instantly felt that things could get complicated.

But Gian Luca Bocache, in charge of the shoes, speaks just enough French and English to allow us to talk about their skills and what they could do for me. This is how, 4 hours before I was scheduled to depart from the city, I entered in the small boutique thinking I was only going to spend 30 minutes talking. I left 3 hours later after ordering a double-breasted blazer, a cashmere sweater, a pair of bespoke shoes and an incredibly light ready-to-wear shirt.

Then, the pleasant man introduced me to Andrea Luparelli, tailor and in charge of taking measurments:  a perfectly tanned Italian with a roman accent. They both had undeniable chic, and I was not surprised to later find them photographed by The Sartorialist during the Pitti Uomo.

Even though Andrea speaks neither English nor French, we understood one another immediately.

When I gestured my preference for high arm holes, very fitted jackets and slim sleeves, his wide smile was enough to convey that the style of the house would fit my taste perfectly.

To show me their work, Andrea guided me through the basement workshop where the Neapolitan tailors created thier magic. I tried on a jacket made for a man whose body shape was close to mine: a royal blue double-breasted jacket with two buttons. Up until that point, I had always been adamant that I would never venture into DB jackets before the age of 30. In only 5 minutes, I understood that I was going to change my mind and order one. I added a su misura cashmere sweater and a pair of shoes to my order.

A month later, I met with Andrea and Gian Luca in a Paris hotel near the Sorbonne for my fittings. I was pleasantly surprised that they had come all the way to Paris for free, but I still went back to Rome in mid-July for a second fitting.

Pictures are often worth a thousand words and I leave it up to you to assess the first “draft”. It exceeded my expectations, but the length of the sleeves needed to be shortened (please disregard the shirt that I wear on this photo, I had to borrow it for my fitting).

The first shoe fitting revealed the need for more intense work, including in length and in width, and I feared that I would be disappointed at the next fitting. But Gian Luca quickly showed me that the praise from Vuitton was well-deserved: the shoes are perfect and absolutely comfortable.

At my first fitting in Paris, I also ordered a midnight blue wool suit (super 160 Loro Piana) and a zephyr cotton bespoke shirt.

I was back in Rome last weekend, and what I tried on surpassed all my expectations. The suit and vest are pure bliss to wear and they feel like a second skin and give me complete freedom of movement like I have never felt before (my Camps de Luca suit is still not finished).

To describe my Ripense experience, I would simply say that it is what I consider sartorial perfection. I know that bespoke is a very subjective experience, but I probably have found a house that will follow me for a very long time. I simply urge you to go in and talk to these artisans who offer their Italian talent and skills at a very attractive price. Paul F. July 2010.

Prices (indicative)
Loro Piana super 160′s suit:   2500€
Swiss cotton shirt:                          260€
Cashmere sweater:                         380€
Bespoke shoes: from                  1000 € *
Crocodile belt: from                       500€ *
DB Blazer (Holland & Sherry): 1700€

* Since this article was first put on line, Ripense has adjusted some prices quoted by the author, including for shoes and crocodile belts.

When the book’s author, Susan Getgood, interviewed me a few months ago, it never crossed my mind that our chat would eventually become a two-page case study. Even since then, we been busy building the OTC brand and moving forward , in fact you’ll probably notice that the OTC screen shot on page 29 is of our beloved original blog, now retired.  Boy, have we grown!

The book itself is an outstanding tool for those looking to understand how to be a better, more effective and successful blogger.  It’s also a great resource for those who want to understand what makes a great blog in the first place.

Getgood, a major force in world of professional bloggers, captured my goals and hopes for OTC in a wonderful way.  Setting aside so much real estate just for OTC says a lot about what Off the Cuff has accomplished so far, and hopefully, what’s next.  And, since OTC was profiled up front, in Chapter 1 (Examining  Blogging at the Professional Level), it also means we have a lot to live up to!

A big thanks to Susan, the ‘For Dummies’ team and most importantly the many thousands of readers who make OTC a regular stop on their sartorial journey.

At $398.00 they are by no means cheap, but this being the world of Ralph Lauren, you also get some outstanding packaging,  a neat booklet and coordinating repp necktie.  The actual denim is manufactured by Cone Denim of Greenville, North Carolina, on 100 year-old shuttle looms.  It takes longer to make, uses more cotton than traditionally manufactured mass market denim and costs a whole lot more.

If you want them, don’t hesitate because Rugby only made 100 pair.

Like it or not, as we age our skins does often show the varying ravages of time.  While this is not as big a deal for men as it is for ladies, taking care of your skin does have important benefits, like not being mistaken for a grandfather, until you actually are one.

Eshu, a new skincare line from Australia that launched in Macy’s this past May, is a great new option designed specifically for men.  With a clean, contemporary and utilitarian look, the packaging will not be confused with your wife or girlfriend’s flowery lotion and the products themselves are actually a pleasure to use.

The full, but not overloaded range includes face wash, face scrub, moisturizer, a cleansing brick, pre-shave oil and shave cream.  All of their products contain unique Australian ingredients such as Kakadu Plum and Paperback Oil.

Eshu, named for the Yorba god of, among other things, perspective, is designed and made entirely in Australia, where the driest continent on earth takes its toll on men’s skin. Influenced by the country’s no nonsense attitude on life,  these skin care products are simple and effective and have no complicated explanations or difficult regimes to follow.

I really like the moisturizer and face wash myself and have been using both regularly.  They are straightforward products that have substance to them but not the hype.  As the packaging states, “We believe skincare is important, but it’s not rocket science.  It should be easy and uncomplicated.  No long chemical explanations, no flowery product descriptions.”

Arbonne, a brand already known to many women recently rebanded its mens product line under the “RE9 Advanced” label.  To be honest, I tend to get annoyed when labels try to be too faux technical, but in this case, the overall packaging and label has a nice masculine and reasonably uncluttered feel.

Again, the moisturizer is a hit with me, particularly because the one they sent along is SPF 20, a good choice for my fair skin.  The one-piece twist open/close cap is a pretty cool feature too.

The RE9 line includes an exfoliating wash, shave gel, post-shave balm and that killer moisturizer.  And, like Eshu, it claims some pretty interesting ingredients like Sea Buckthorn oil, Red Seaweed Extract and the catchy sounding Bisabolol.

Ignatious was kind enough to send me a lovely shirt to test out and I’m darn glad he did.  It’s of course very well made of a luxuriously dense and fluid but lightweight cotton.  It’s also unique, as are all IJ shirts, due to its collar.  Joseph constructs only soft dress shirt collars, meaning there is no stiffness at all around your neck.

This is an expensive and rather complex process but it makes for a genuinely custom and unique fit, unlike any other dress shirt I own.  Overall, the shape is decidedly fitted but not overly slim or binding.  The sleeves are a tad too long on me and I plan to have them shortened.  He also makes fully custom shirts, but, as we are on two separate continents, I opted for a ready-made model so by no means is perfection expected.

Nonetheless, it is a virtually flawless and incredibly comfortable shirt.  It’s also a very sharp shirt, so much so that I wore it to the BeSpeak launch party over the summer.  While at the Custom Shop earlier in the day, the BeSpeak team sat around suggesting ties for my shirt and along the way it was immortalized in my BeSpeak virtual closet.

Now, as you can probably can see in these photos, I chose not to iron the shirt before snapping a few images.  While of course pressed and formal when I head out to the office, today I wanted to highlight the detail, construction and design of this shirt.  No better way to do that than by taking a look at it in its delightfully rumpled state.

Notice the obvious softness of the collar and collar band, the precise stitching, the fabric’s thick but soft hand.  You can also see the exacting matching of pattern and the signature shaping of the shirt, to better fit the wearer.

Clearly, this is  a great shirt.  But more than that, it’s made by a man dedicated to the art and science of shirt making; shirts and only shirts.  The love shows.

On the formal wear front, Thom Browne has made the suit and sockless look part of his brand’s entire message.  What does all this really mean for everyday wear in real life?  how does one actually pull off the whole no-socks thing?

For starters, there are particular pieces of footwear with which one should never wear socks in the first place.  Deck shoes, those classic American Sperry Topsiders for example, should never come within a mile of a sock.  Even if it’s 10-below, one should always go bare ankled.

On the casual side, simple leather or canvas sneakers, aka trainers, look best without socks as well.  As with the deck shoes above, sneakers hail from a sporty, outdoors lifestyle and naturally fit with an equally sporty no-socks look.

These are the obvious choices of course; shoes that were never really meant to be worn in a formal or dressy context.  They fall into that classic zone of being timeless rather than fashion – you almost don’t even have to think about it.

The fuzzy area begins to form when we move in the direction of town shoes.  These are the shoes we wear in a more formal, often business context. We start with bucks – be they white, saddle or dirty.  Bucks, back when my father was at Yale, where more  of  the casual sporty shoes of the day.  Today, they are semi-formal dress shoes right at home in the office.

In warm weather I typically wear my bucks without socks.  There are a few rules for this; I have to be dressing in a generally casual manner or at least not with a formal business purpose.  I’ve seen guys in Boston wear bucks with khaki shorts and a worn out oxford – a great look worthy of Take Ivy.

Loafers and slip -ins are another category of near-dress shoes that adapt well to going sans-socks.  Especially in warm weather, sporting some nice cordovan slip-ins from Brooks Brothers paired with heavy linen trousers, a banker striped shirt and blue blazer, you have an ensemble that is pitch perfect.

The same goes for classic penny loafers or driving shoes.  In fact, I don’t ever think I’ve ever seen a pair of Todd’s Gomminis worn with socks.  Alan Flusser recently showed me his new pair, in electric blue, and the first thing I thought was – how can you even wear socks with those?  It just doesn’t work.

Lastly, we get to the business shoe debate.  Although all the rage, apparently to show how clever and avante garde one is, wearing town shoes in a business environment without socks is exceedingly difficult.  I know, I’ve tried.  There are, however a few rules that will help you look a little less like a runway poser.

First, your suit or trousers and sport coat should be on the trim side and more fitted than a basic business ensemble.  Part of the message going sockless in a work environment is supposed to convey is modernity.  At least right now, that means fitted and ever so slightly cropped.  Have your trousers just touch or slightly break over your shoe; it should look crisp and clean.

This aesthetic mirrors the outdoorsy un-traditional business message your look is trying to convey.  Pleats and a deep break just won’t do.  Additionally, you should pair your shoe to the overall outfit.  Trim cap toe to slim cut formal suit or heavy wingtip to khaki pant and light sweater.

It’s like going tieless; you do not want to look like you simply forgot your tie.  Same thing with the socks.

Hugh & Crye is a play on the ancient term ‘hue and cry’. In medieval England, civilians who witnessed a crime were bound by common law to exercise hue and cry, essentially shouting and clamoring, to help apprehend the criminal and bring him to justice.

The guys at H&C prefer to view it as seeing something wrong in the world, and doing something about it. The wrong they see is a plethora of ill fitting and overpriced shirts.  The doing something about it is Hugh & Crye.

Their shirts are not customized, a big trend at the moment, but rather sized by body type – an innovative and clever approach that really does work for most men. And through a combination of outstanding fabrics, detailed tailoring and creative but still practical designs, H&C really has developed a great brand for the right market.

Pranav and and H&C founding partner Ernest Chrappah spent a lot of time creating a particular look and feel to their shirts, testing sizing models and sourcing some great two-ply Egyptian cottons.

They also built in some classic styling to their modern take on the dress shirt and drew inspiration from menswear’s luminaries.  To whit, in the picture below you can see the classic books Dressing The Man and Style and the Man, both by OTC’s good friend Alan Flusser, sitting prominently in H&C’s office.  As they are big fans of Alan, I took a couple of minutes to show off our BeSpeak iPhone app.

To learn more about Hue & Crye, please visit their website.

Take a few minutes and fill out an entry form at the link below for a chance to win 5 Tucker Blair belts, 5 Bonobos pairs of pants, and 5 Bonobos polo shirts (Valued at $1,500)!

Bonobos pants are legendary for their remarkable fit and comfort and Tucker Blair has quickly established itself as a new leading preppy lifestyle brand – so much so that their outstanding needlepoint belts are highlighted throughout the upcoming True Prep.

Enter Now: http://wildfireapp.com/website/6/contests/48987

Assembling a great wardrobe can take a lot of time, effort and of course, expense.  When done well, it is not something you “do”; rather it becomes a process spread across the days of your life.  Because investing in custom suits or dress shirts, those perfect chinos or Ravello shell cordovan wingtips from Alden is only half the battle.

The other half of that ongoing endeavor is properly looking after your investments. Keeping your clothing and accessories in great shape takes a little work but that effort will pay off in long-term use and the wonderful, classic patina that only time can provide.

Having Ralph Lauren’s closet (above) sure doesn’t hurt either. For additional inspiration, check out these other outstanding closets.

all that being said, though the natural aging of fabric and leather and wearing down of cuffs and elbows are normal, and often quite charming, these inevitabilities should be held off as long as possible. Doing so allows your possessions to keep their appeal while still developing the character that makes you want to keep them around for years to come.

Here are a few basics that will help your cherished clothes last longer while still looking great.

Hangers
First, invest in good wooden hangers – there is no way around it.  Wood hangers support your garments, help preserve their shape and are aesthetically appealing.  While any sturdy wooden hanger is better than wire or plastic, hands down, some of the finest I’ve ever used come from Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project.  They are built to last and to protect the integrity of your clothing.  While not inexpensive, as an investment in your fine garments, they will probably outlast you and ultimately return handsomely on their capital outlay.

Second, use them! When done with your clothes for the day, hang everything up.  If dirty, throw it on the laundry or take it to the dry cleaner – just don’t pile things up on the floor.  Using a solid and well sized wood hanger (suit hangers for suits, slimmer hangers for shirts and felted bar hangers from trousers) will add years to your clothing and help protect your garments from snags, wrinkles and stains.

Make a point of keeping your closet in order too, so no crowding. Garments need room to breathe and space to air out. In most cases, wrinkles will work themselves out in between wearings. An impromptu steaming can help too – just hang your day’s outfit next to the shower.  A clean and orderly closet is also inspiring.  If you open the door and see a curated collection of favorites, getting dressed is a fun and fulfilling process.

Dry Cleaning v. Brushing
In general, most suits and sport coats only need to be dry-cleaned once a year. Delicate fabrics and linens may need more attention, but on the whole brushing your garments with a clothing brush will remove most dust and dirt. Spot cleaning can address minor stains and help avoid unnecessary trips to the cleaners. If your suit is looking a little too lived in, go ahead and take it in for a pressing only. It will look refreshed without being unnecessarily exposed to damaging dry cleaning chemicals.

Laundering Shirts
Though some people insist on dry cleaning their dress shirts, I prefer to launder them at home. When it comes to home laundering, cold water is usually best but always look for the care tag first. Iron on a slightly cooler setting and lay off the starch.

If you are still compelled to use it, than starch only those areas that can get a little unruly, like cuffs, collars and plackets. If you regularly send your shirts off to the cleaners, pass on the starch there as well. Commercial presses do a fine job of working out wrinkles without the need for extra chemicals.  When ironing at home, always remember to iron the backside of the shirt’s collar.  For cuffs, iron the backside of barrel cuffs and the reverse, the inside side, of French cuffs also called double cuffs.

Footwear Care
Nowhere else does the concept of “investment clothing” hold forth than with footwear. A good pair of quality business shoes can easily cost several hundred dollars and only move northward. Custom shoes quickly reach into the thousands. Though it can be a big financial hit up front, good shoes will always being in style and when properly cared for, can last a lifetime. Though they may seem an extravagance (and for many of us they are), custom shoes in addition to looking great, will help keep your feet healthy. So as a general rule, keep your footwear in top notch shape.

In addition to protecting your dress shoes’ leather with regular polishing, make sure to always use shoe trees. There are many variations, but the best are full-sized and made from untreated cedar. The shoe tree will absorb moisture and help maintain your shoe’s shape. Fancy varnished trees are fine too – the kind with heavy brass knobs or pull rings – in fact I’m looking for some myself.

Be careful to not overuse your good shoes. Don’t wear the same pair day after day; they need to rest and dry out. After you get home, give your shoes a quick brush down, insert the trees and give them a few a day or two off. Should you get stuck in a rainstorm or have to tramp through snow, do not try and quickly dry out your shoes; that can permanently damage your fine footwear. Instead, stuff them with newspaper, set them in a room-temperature place and leave them alone. Change the paper if it gets damp but don’t rush the process. Also, make sure to brush off road salts or dirt immediately. Once the leather has air dried, insert your shoes trees and give them a good polish and waxing to recondition the leather.

Shoe trees at work

In fact, splurge every now and then for a really good shoe shine.  In addition to being a fun, classic and masculine endeavor, a professional once-over is good for your shoes and extends their life.  One of my favorite stands is in Washington, D.C.’s Union Station – right by Amtrak’s F Gate. Those guys are the best.

Union Station Shoe Shine

When you get down to it, taking care of your clothing should not been seen as a chore; quite the opposite in fact. To me, looking after my clothes is a pleasure and since I’ve put a lot of effort, time and thought into my wardrobe, taking care of it all is a happy ritual.

Equally important was the chance to learn all about Flusser’s amazing iPhone application from the man himself.  Nearly 30 bloggers, publishers, style leaders and a couple of well-known names spent the evening with the BeSpeak team, learning about this innovative tool and chatting with the legendary Alan Flusser about the art and science of dressing well.

Michael Drake, the founder of Drakes-London and style legend in his own right, was in town and joined us as well.  Michael’s ties and other luxurious accessories are some the finest available and he’s even made ties, pocket squares and scarves for Alan’s shop over the years.

Robert Bryan, the founder of one of the most iconic men’s style magazines, “M”, was also in attendance.  For those seriously interested in classic style and menswear, “M” – published in the late 1980s through early 1990s – is still considered one of the forerunners to today’s men’s lifestyle magazines.  As you might suspect, he was impeccably attired.

We were also honored to have the editor and men’s fashion editor from RalphLauren.com, some heavy hitters from Brooks Brothers and the publisher of the forthcoming, and rabidly expected, Take Ivy reprint.  On that note, a head’s up – the entire first printing is already sold out and it hasn’t even hit the shelves yet!

Equally important are the outstanding blogs that showed up, including Rugby, Street Etiquette, The Trad, Alex Grant, Image Granted, The Mod Revival and Made To Measure.  Thanks for spending the evening with us guys!

For more information on BeSpeak, make sure to visit www.BeSpeak.com or stop by our home on Facebook.  You can also check out OTC’s own dedicated BeSpeak page.

Here are some more pictures from the event: