Brand building is a tricky business.  Try too hard and people don’t trust you, try too little and they won’t even know you exist.  Brands with history, and a history of doing something well, have a big advantage.  “Authentic” brands possess the quality of longevity and substance – particularly in today’s market.

In an attempt to take advantage of this trend, some companies tout embellished histories or toss around the word “heritage” with casual abandon.  They want you to buy into their version of history or their new brand’s freshly imagined “vintage” past.  Then there are the guys who actually make stuff, make it well and often forget to toot their own horn.  They are craftsmen first and marketers second; a rare bird, frankly.  They don’t “market” heritage, their products are their heritage.

So, when the president of the United States went looking for just the right Made-in-America briefcase, he headed directly to Fall River, Massachusetts, and the workshop of Frank Clegg, owner of Frank Clegg Leatherworks.

The briefcase you see at President Obama’s feet in the official White house photo above, propped gently against the legendary Resolute Desk, is Frank’s Double Gusset Zip Top Briefcase, in black harness belting leather.

Exactly how did that outstanding briefcase find its way into the president’s hands?  Apart from being one of the finest leather craftsman in the United States and having a roster of devoted customers that literally spans decades…well, Frank won’t say.  He confirmed that said briefcase is indeed from Frank Clegg, but beyond that he said simply that he is humbled and honored that it accompanies the president.

OTC is an unabashedly proud and longtime supporter of Frank and his exceptional products.  As we said in what is perhaps our favorite post, “Frank Clegg doesn’t just make leather bags; he crafts heirlooms, one at a time, by hand.”  For Frank and his craftsmanship to be honored in such a remarkable way is not only fitting, it is validation of function over mere form, substance over flash, and actual heritage over marketing.

Mr. Clegg, welcome to the White House.

To be honest, the buttons were the first thing we noticed.

All of the shorts made by Old Bull Lee – and they only make shorts – have button fly openings.  And, the buttons that founder Lee Johnson chose to use are very specific; thick, sturdy, branded, and slightly over-sized. You notice them because they are not simply functional, they are part of the overall design.

That these buttons have a quality that is hard to define, but which unquestionably add to the shorts’ overall character, is not by chance.  Johnson, a former architect, knows from design and his shorts reflect that attention to detail, construction, and quality.

Depending on what model you chose, Old Bull Lee shorts are either bohemian cool or long-lived classic.

The prints, rendered in lightweight (190 grams-per-square-meter) Italian cotton, have a wonderfully relaxed yet sophisticated look to them.  They would be perfect for strolling the weekend antiques market in L’Isle sur la Sorgue, paired with an favorite old white linen shirt – sleeves rolled up in the warming sun.

The solids are cut to the same design, but in a beefier 290 grams-per-square-meter cotton and finished in a Japanese peach finish twill.  At first, they have a deeply uniform coloration, saturated, almost.  But, with some time, use, and a few washes, a nuanced faded appearance sets in and they take on a look of comfortable familiarity.  All of their fabrics are sourced from France and Italy and the garments are made in the United States.

As an added bonus, each pair of shorts arrives carefully presented inside a beautiful, sturdy navy presentation box that makes Ralph Lauren’s look like something from the dollar store.  Really, we love the boxes.

Old Bull Lee’s story is one of passion and determination.  Johnson sold his house to finance the dream, traveled to Europe to make connections, endured rebuffs and rejections, and eventually wound up producing something that embodies his dedication to craft.  Yes, they are “just” shorts.  But, they are the shorts we want to wear, made by the kind of guy we love introducing to OTC readers, and constructed in a way that honors Lee Johnson’s goal of doing it right.

Over the past several months, we have had the chance to review a variety of products that are redefining a wardrobe staple that seems to have gone unchanged in any meaningful way for decades; the undershirt.  For many men, especially those who dress up for work, an undershirt is a necessity but also a burden.

Too often, they are spun from heavy cotton, sized like small boxy tents, and bunch up under all but the fullest cut shirts.  One reason we are excited about this new crop of brands that are re-thinking the lowly undershirt, is that the changes they bring are making a real difference in the market.  These “next generation” base layers are more comfortable and fit much better that what’s on the store shelf, and they actually match the way we live and dress today.

Ribbed Tee is a great example of this updated thinking.  Made in the USA, their undershirts and tees combine excellent quality, soft but supportive materials and a solid design that fits comfortably.  The 50/50 combed cotton and polyester blend Retro Fit v-neck undershirts we tested are incredibly lightweight, so much so that we could barely feel them.  The wide neck opening remains well-hidden when wearing an open neck shirt.

The shirts themselves are cut long and pose little risk of ever coming untucked. They also have a high cut sleeves that stay out of the way when worn under a polo or other short sleeved shirt.  The loose jersey knit MicroModal fabric means that the shirt hugs your body without any binding or constraint.  It’s a great fit under a slim dress shirt but still feels incredibly comfortable.

We also tried out their classic fit crew neck in heather grey, which was equally comfortable and possessed many of the same material features as the the undershirts: streamlined fit, trim design, featherweight fabric, and a long stay-in-place cut.  The mico-ribbing pattern is reminiscent of a classic thermal tee, and provides some visual texture when worn by itself.  It’s also an excellent layering piece, especially due to its ability to provide real style without any bulk whatsoever.  However, if you plan to wear it as a stand-alone tee, some fair warning – you better be in shape.

For some guys, finding a good belt is often a challenge. If you have an odd-sized waist, most belts are too loose or too tight. And, depending on your pants – dress trousers or jeans, for example – your belt may simply not fit the way you need.

One option we recently tested out is a cleverly designed micro adjustable belt from Anson Belt & Buckle, a father-and-son run company. They offer a line of men’s micro-adjustable, hole-less belts. Instead of five holes one inch apart, their belts offer 30-plus options a ¼ inch apart, thanks to a micro-adjustable track system sewn into the back of the full leather strap.

With a variety of strap and buckle colors, the ability to mix and max lets you create a belt that truly meets your needs. We liked the open buckle design that is neutral enough to work with most wardrobes, particularly smarter casual looks, but also strikes a modern, elegant note.

For some guys, this is the Holy Grail of belts, and will prompt them to toss out everything else. Others may see it as a welcome addition to the wardrobe. Here at OTC, we really like the ability to grab at least one belt out of the closet that always fits just right.

Jon, a true gentleman and passionate craftsman, is a good friend of OTC.  He possesses the unique ability to make both a globe-hopping corporate executive and clothing neophyte feel equally respected and appreciated.  At his core, Jon is an educator and historian of all that is ‘bespoke.’

In this guest column, he provides a thoughtful and educational retort to last year’s New York Times article on bespoke tailoring.

The article, “What’s a $4000 Suit Worth?” appeared in the Sunday New York Times Magazine of September 4, 2012. Written by Adam Davidson, an American journalist focusing on business and economic issues for National Public Radio, he also writes the “It’s the Economy” column in the New York Times Magazine.

As a bespoke clothier on Madison Avenue for over 20 years, I read Davidson’s article with great interest.

For the article Mr. Davidson interviewed Peter Frew, a 33-year-old Jamaican born bespoke tailor who apprenticed in Savile Row, London. Mr. Frew, who now works out of his apartment in Queens, makes bespoke suits for clients entirely by hand and by himself. This endeavor takes him 75 hours for each suit, or about 2 suits per month.

Initially, Davidson’s contact with bespoke craftsmanship prompted his acknowledgement of what a skillful tailor can achieve with shears, needle and thread, and his hands. But his excitement quickly faded after learning that in spite of charging $4000 for his suits, Frew made only about $50,000 a year.

“As I watched Frew work, it became glaringly obvious why he is not rich,” Davidson observed. “Like a 17th-century craftsman, he has no economy of scale,” a very powerful point for the author in this discussion. Davidson goes on to say that, “the odd riddle” of bespoke tailoring in our economy is why more people are not willing to pay for it.

One reader responding on-line put it this way, “Bespoke clothing is one of those things you either ‘get’ or you don’t!” That certainly has been my experience.

It is unreasonable to expect that those who find ‘acceptable’ preferable to ‘optimal’ would appreciate the psychic income of a bespoke suit. The lack of appreciation for quality in our culture is profound.

In either case, Davidson missed a great opportunity to enlighten his readers, and perhaps himself, about the value of “Bespoke” clothing.

The craftsmanship required to make a bespoke suit has been passed down for centuries through years of training and apprenticeships with master tailors; artisanal craftsmanship develops over a lifetime.

Conversely, ‘an economy of scale’ requires mass production; bespoke clothing cannot be mass-produced.

In today’s marketplace, luxury goods exist primarily as brands of the giant luxury goods conglomerates PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute) whose brands include Gucci, Botega Veneta, Stella McCartney, et al, and LVMH (Louis Vuitton • Moët Hennessy) whose brands are Fendi, Pucci, Givenchy, Berluti, Bulgari, et al. These conglomerates buy artisanal businesses with good reputations and restructure them as profit centers by employing “economies of scale.”

Suzy Menkes, a British journalist and head fashion reporter and editor for the International Herald Tribune since 1988, reflects in her December 6, 2012, New York Times article, on the everlasting style and taste of Valentino Garavani’s retrospective in London’s Somerset House. In it she opines, “Is that alta moda era gone forever with the corporate luxury culture and the tsunami of fast fashion?”

It would be a sad irony indeed to have the money to buy whatever you desired only to have the choice of branded “merchandise” available in malls and airport shops all over the world.

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure clothing – Since the early twentieth century there has existed a grey area of garments between the poles of bespoke and ready-to-wear; for which the customer was measured and garments made to the closest standard size in a factory. The distinction made here is between bespoke, a paper pattern created specifically for a client, and made-to-measure, which alters an existing pattern to accommodate some changes for the customer.

Technological change makes this distinction more subtle since fittings are increasingly required for both bespoke and made-to-measure. However, a bespoke service requires an individually created and cut paper pattern kept on file for future orders. Today made-to-measure measurements are often stored too, on a computer.

Hand-work, often cited as an exclusive benchmark of bespoke, is now increasingly found in limited amounts in made-to-measure garments. Machine-making plays a small part in the creation of most bespoke suits in the sewing of some straight seams for strength and smoothness. Comparison between the construction techniques of bespoke and those of made-to-measure must be experienced to be understood.

Like many others, Davidson lacks the above distinctions, which may explain why Martin Greenfield is identified in the ‘Slide Show’ accompanying Davidson’s article on-line as a “Bespoke Tailor.” Martin Greenfield is a manufacturer whose factory makes ready-made and made-to-measure suits for retailers, tailors, and customers, by the tens of thousands each year.

All of us differ on what we think is ‘worth it.’ Many men, rich or not, would not consider paying even $1000 for a suit. Not because they can’t, but because they don’t see the point.

But for the receptive, a bespoke suit is the perfect expression of artistry and function – an irreplaceable essential whose quality provides the satisfaction that an economy of scale can only promise.

People buy solutions; and to my mind, nothing meets the daily requirement of being well dressed as superbly as a bespoke suit.

Jon Green Bespoke
509 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10022

Additional images of Jon Green’s bespoke craftsmanship:

The refreshed brand now sports Union Jacks and the Cheeky Fox, reinforcing the transitional heritage that underlies the company’s history.  The shirts are updated too – cut slimmer to match the style sensibilities of today’s customers.  Although most folks associate Thomas Pink with its famous shirting, they also provide outstanding made-to-measure suiting, sport coats, sharp accessories, and fun socks.

OTC was recently invited by Thomas Pink’s PR team to visit the new Tyson’s Galleria store; images below.  We were impressed with the fresh yet vintage take on retail design, the classic riding kit gracing the front entrance, and the clever shadow box shelving that both defines the store’s space and highlights interesting pieces.

In fact, we are so impressed that we’ll be doing a follow-up post on some great Spring looks, courtesy of Thomas Pink.

If there is one trend in menswear today bringing about real change in both how guys dress and how they shop, it is customization.  Depending on your outlook, the ability for a man to purchase clothing that fits just right and do it online is either a godsend or a tragedy.

For some in the fashion literati, fixated on the minutiae of bespoke and “true” custom, the rise of online custom clothing is mildly distressing.  To these folks, the only kind of custom clothing that matters is that which takes time, requires multiple visits to a tailoring atelier, and costs more money than most people are prepared to spend on a suit or a shirt.

For the rest of us, the ability to get clothing that fits us just right, at an affordable price, and in a timely fashion is groundbreaking.  In many ways, it has re shaped the fashion expectations of stylish guys across the world.  And one small brand is working hard to ensure that they deliver not only affordable style to their customers but also outstanding clothes you will wear for a long time.  And, with that kind of starting point, it is easier than ever to start building a fresher, renewed wardrobe that better reflects your own sense of style and also fits you better.

The detail-obsessed team of co-founders Richard Hall and McGregor Madden has developed an efficient and quality-focused model that allows them to deliver extremely high quality men’s shirts at seriously affordable prices.  The new concept, Hall & Madden, is a web-based brand that makes some of the highest quality dress shirts to be found.  These guys have done to shirting what they did to suiting with their other brand, Proper Suit.  Hall & Madden shirts are equal to if not better than some of the most expensive off-the-rack shirts out there – and a few custom labels to boot.

Hall & Madden does not make custom shirts.  Instead, they have a set collection of three core shirt designs – slim, athletic, and classic – that reflect most body types. The consistent styling across these models reflects a clean and modern sensibility.  While one can certainly wear a tie with these shirts, the collar style, a shortened hybrid spread, was specifically selected for it’s ability to look great without one.

With a variety of fabrics and patterns, these shirts are outstanding.  And, delivered in sets of three for $150, they are a remarkable bargain.

The web-based company takes a vertical integration approach to business, so these shirts are designed, manufactured, and shipped through Hall & Madden’s value chain.  This operational advantage is reflected in the price and in the focus on quality and service.

When we asked co-founder McGregor Madden to highlight the advantages of Hall & Madden shirts, he noted that the business model was geared for busy customers who see the benefits of outsourcing.  Their customers don’t’ have to hop in the car and head out to the store.  Guys get shirts when they need them and skip the mall and hassle, saving time and money.

Each subscriber gets access to a team that will help round out their wardrobe and fast, free shipping.  The kind of quality they sell could easily go for $165 or more per shirt.  The sizing is similar to Hugo Boss, and because the fit is predictable, customers know exactly what they are getting.

Madden also likes to point out that with Hall & Madden, there is no buyer’s remorse.  All their shirts are always sold at the same low price all the time.

We can say that from our perspective, Hall & Madden is a refreshing change from the ordinary.  We expect that our closet will be Hall & Madden territory from this point forward.

Dyson Digital Slim™ vacuums have a detachable long-reach wand for floor to ceiling cordless cleaning. Powered by the Dyson digital motor, they’re the most powerful cordless vacuums.  Learn more at www.dyson.com/digitalslim.

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by Dyson via Glam Media.  The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Dyson.

Opera slippers are not for everyone, at least not in the traditional sense.  Typically, these elegant velvet classics are best accompanied by a smoking jacket, ascot, and crystal tumbler filled with a 30 year-old single malt.  The addition of an enormous mansion, butler, and classy cocktail party more or less round out their patrician reputation.

Bull + Tassel, a brand founded by David Zimmerman, seeks to re-imagine the opera slipper as a modern, casual piece of footwear.  He has taken the shoe’s inherent benefits and moved the style in a more practical direction.  Instead of a refined house shoe never meant to see a sidewalk let alone the front stoop, we now have a clever hybrid very much at home when on the go or just strolling down the driveway to check the mail.

Instead of velvet, Bull + Tassel offers three variations rendered in a proprietary grosgrain- or cotton-based fabric.  The soles are a sturdy, studded rubber that easy handle most day-to-day conditions.  OTC tested the “Biff” model, shown above, and we were quite impressed.  Rather than the expected soft, unstructured slip-ins, we instead found ourselves with a lightweight, stylish, and durable shoe that is both unique and a lot of fun.

Zimmerman is the founder of Matador Alcove, a small private club (lounge, drinks, and a haircut) in Costa Mesa, California – which may explain the “bull” in Bull + Tassel.  To Zimmerman, the brand’s name reflects the melding of strength and refinement, two qualities that he feels best define the modern gentleman.  His shoes fit that description nicely.

Your watch is a personal expression of your personal style, and when it comes to picking that one special watch, we humbly suggest choosing the path less taken.  Clearing out the clutter and upgrading to one special watch that has meaning to you beyond mere functionality is a great way to set your personal style tone.

With the continued interest in high-end mechanical watches, luxury brands like Rolex, IWC, Panerai, and Omega have become commoditized status objects – elegant but to a certain extent, ubiquitous. Though each is certainly exceptional and unique on its own, such watches as a category seems to have become relatively commonplace, used more for status recognition than for personal expression.

Huge holding companies like LVMH Moet Hennessy-Louis Vuitton, Swatch Group, and Richemont have come to dominate the luxury watch market; once the domain of craftsmen.

The craftsmen still exists of course, just not always where you expect them. Close your eyes. What comes to mind when you hear, “handmade mechanical timepiece,” “exacting quality,” and “coveted by collectors, celebrities, explorers, and heads of state?” Did your thoughts immediately drift to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania? Maybe they should.

While Switzerland is home to the likes of Rolex and Germany to Glashutte, the Steel City is in fact the world headquarters of Kobold Watch Company and home to the remarkable Michael Kobold. These unique wristwatches are the epitome of making a choice to opt for individual over expected, distinctive rather than predictable. Kobold watches are modern classics; deceptively simple and refreshing.

At all of 34 years old, Kobold has done something most in the luxury industry would have thought impossible. Within the insular world of high-end timepieces Michael Kobold has created a boutique watch company from scratch, and it’s thriving. His line of watches, anchored by the stunning, and stunningly functional Polar Surveyor, is primarily geared to adventurous types – armchair and genuine.

Celebrating its 16th anniversary this year, Kobold Watch Company is barely out of diapers compared to brands like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre or Breguet. But his creations are already being likened to blue-chip brands like the aforementioned Rolex and Omega. Often it’s Kobold doing the talking, but that’s part of his brand’s success: he isn’t afraid to put his products to the test and tell you why they are just as good – if not better – than those better known names.

Kobold’s loyal brand ambassadors include former President Bill Clinton, A-list actors like The Sopranos’ James Gandalfini and Leonardo DiCaprio, legendary adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes, and global architect Daniel Libeskind.

One Kobold that stands out for its simple but powerful styling is the Arctic Diver. Even at a weighty 46mm, it’s a great watch that sits comfortably on the wrist. The unique yet classically inspired face is easy to read, which will come in handy as it is also very much built for someone who plans on wearing it to the ends of the earth. Literally.

Dyson Digital Slim™ vacuums have a detachable long-reach wand for floor to ceiling cordless cleaning. Powered by the Dyson digital motor, they’re the most powerful cordless vacuums. Learn more at www.dyson.com/digitalslim.

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by Dyson via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Dyson.

Undershirts are the unsung heroes of many a man’s wardrobe.  They are by nature pedestrian and functional, serving a purpose rather than expressing personality.  Indeed, the best undershirts are the ones you forget you have on; not evident when being worn and possessing as little presence as possible.

Finding, let alone creating a perfect undershirt is a holy grail-like endeavor geared to those intent on minimizing their impact on menswear by maximizing their attention to material, design, fit, and construction.  They want you to forget you’re wearing their product until the moment you realize it’s on and you hadn’t even noticed it.  That is the brand-winning moment.

Enter UnderFit.  Founders David Palmer and Ben Brockland started the company in 2010 after dealing with the frustration of not being able to find a good fitting undershirt. The entrepreneurs worked long and hard to develop thier signature product.  True to the bootstraps model, Brockland worked two full-time jobs trying to get UnderFit going.  Manufacturing is American based; the fabric is sourced from mills in Southern California, manufacturing takes place in Milwaukee, and orders are fulfilled outside Philadelphia.

While the back story is inspiring, the good news is that their undershirts are pretty great too.  The material, an eco-friendly blended fabric called ProModal, combines the best qualities of two different fibers, Modal and Tencel. It also contains a small amount of Lycra that helps to create a better fit.  This combination creates a lightweight, shape-retaining, and breathable material.

We found wearing UnderFits to be a very comfortable exercise.  The shirts, broader at the shoulders and narrower at the waist, are nicely fitted but not at all tight or constricting.  Importantly, they create almost no bulk at all under our trim dress shirts and are very comfortable all day long.  The shirt’s body is long enough to ensure it stays tucked in place.

These are some of the most consistently comfortable undershirts we have ever tested.  An important fact to remember is that these are designed to be undershirts first and foremost.  And, they were designed to be the best undershirt you can find anywhere.  As Brockland and Palmer say, “Undershirts are simple, UnderFits are simply perfect. “  It’s even their tagline.

OTC wholly endorses UnderFit.  If there is a better purpose-built undershirt out there, we have yet to find it.