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	<title>Off the Cuff &#187; Style Guides</title>
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	<description>Classic. Modern. Style.</description>
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		<title>BeSpeak Makes List of Top 500 Apps</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/bespeak-list-top-500-apps</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/bespeak-list-top-500-apps#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Jan 2012 21:16:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Alan Flusser]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[BeSpeak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=2663</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We are thrilled to announce that BeSpeak has been selected by a panel of experts from The Sunday Times as one of the top 500 smartphone apps in the world. The Times&#8217; App List is a definitive guide to must-have games, tools and distractions for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry, Android, Windows Phone 7 or tablet.  [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="www.bespeak.com"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-2664" title="Sunday Times App Badge" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Sunday-Times-list-copy.jpg" alt="Sunday Times list copy BeSpeak Makes List of Top 500 Apps" width="180" height="125" /></a>We are thrilled to announce that <a href="http://www.bespeak.com/" target="_blank">BeSpeak</a> has been selected by a panel of experts from <em>The Sunday Times</em> as one of the top 500 smartphone apps in the world.</p>
<p>The <em>Times&#8217;</em> App List is a definitive guide to must-have games, tools and distractions for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry, Android, Windows Phone 7 or tablet.  According to the paper, The Sunday Times’ app list was compiled by experts in the relevant fields along with input from regular Sunday Times app reviewers. The App List itself allows readers to search for specific aps, look through app categories and arrange results by platform.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/BeSpeak-Logo.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2669 alignright" title="BeSpeak Logo" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/BeSpeak-Logo-300x300.jpg" alt="BeSpeak Logo 300x300 BeSpeak Makes List of Top 500 Apps" width="147" height="147" /></a>Off the Cuff is proud to be part of the BeSpeak team and honored to work with such a distinguished and talented t group of sartorial and technical experts.</p>
<p>Conceived and developed by legendary clothier Alan Flusser, BeSpeak provides style guidance for business attire for men, including the best style of suit, dress shirt, tie, and pocket square to dress your personal best. The app recommends and coordinates the suit, dress shirt, tie and a pocket square customized for each individual based on a personal profile.</p>
<p>BeSpeak employs patent pending proprietary technology to create a personal profile based on hair color, skin tone, eye color, face shape, body shape and size. These algorithms were created based on intense analysis of classical style guides and designer preferences as seen in fashion advertising and runway shows.</p>
<p>It’s an amazing tool that can help you find the colors, patterns and styles that best suit (so to speak) your specific profile.</p>
<p>Use it in the morning to decide which outfit to wear, how to improve an individual outfit or when shopping to help select profile-perfect purchases. Select the most flattering clothes for a meeting, a date, or job interview. Most importantly, BeSpeak can help you better develop the dressing skills for how to look your most stylish every day.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/SundayTimesApps.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-2676" title="SundayTimesApps" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/SundayTimesApps.jpg" alt="SundayTimesApps BeSpeak Makes List of Top 500 Apps" width="240" height="180" /></a>How does BeSpeak work? First, create and store a personal profile for you (or others) based on hair color, skin tone, eye color, face shape, body shape and size. Then, you will receive a recommendation for coordinated outfits.</p>
<p>To see additional outfit recommendations, just tap the “reload” button on the lower menu bar.</p>
<p>You can also input your own individual articles of clothing or potential purchases and the app will make recommendations relative to your profile as well as evaluate and grade your choices. So, you can build your own virtual closet, get expert recommendations on what works best for you and even make sure that new shirt, suit or tie actually fits with your profile and your wardrobe.</p>
<p>You can download the free BeSpeak app from <a href="http://www.bespeak.com/" target="_blank">www.BeSpeak.com</a> or from the <a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bespeak/id372284641?mt=8" target="_blank">iTunes store</a>.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Waskerd Handmade Leather Goods</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/waskerd-handmade-leather-goods</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/waskerd-handmade-leather-goods#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Dec 2011 21:27:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Accessories]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=2535</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
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		<title>2011 Holiday Wish List</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/2011-holiday-list</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/2011-holiday-list#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Dec 2011 22:15:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Accessories]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Great Brands]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holiday]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=2433</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This year, the OTC Holiday Wish List has a great mix of interesting items, price points and functionality.  Some of these brands may be familiar to you, while others may be something new.  And that&#8217;s what we try and do at OTC &#8211; remind our readers of why certain brands are indeed great, and introduce [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: left;">This year, the OTC Holiday Wish List has a great mix of interesting items, price points and functionality.  Some of these brands may be familiar to you, while others may be something new.  And that&#8217;s what we try and do at OTC &#8211; remind our readers of why certain brands are indeed great, and introduce new or smaller companies who deserve some increased attention.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">In the coming weeks, you will be learning more about a few of the outstanding brands listed below, such as Lotuff Leather.  We are in fact field testing a leather lock briefcase right now; safe to say they are not getting it back after the review!  Recently, we had the chance to speak with the superlative Ira Neimark, former CEO of Bergdorff Goodman, and the man who&#8217;s vision created one of the world&#8217;s legendary stores.  His new book, <em>The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman</em>, should be required reading for anyone seeking to understand what it truly means to be an exceptional retailer or influencer of fashion.  Be on the lookout for our review. <em></em></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Explore, enjoy and Happy Holidays!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Classic White Oxford Button Down</strong><br />
<a href="http://luminaclothing.com/" target="_blank">Lumina Clothing Company</a><br />
Raleigh, North Carolina</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">$128.00<br />
<a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/White_Lumina-Oxford.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2453" title="White_Lumina Oxford" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/White_Lumina-Oxford.png" alt="White Lumina Oxford 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="378" height="423" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Needlpoint Ball Cap</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.harding-lane.com/products-all.php" target="_blank">HARDING-LANE</a><br />
Dedham, Massachusetts</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">$30.00</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/HL-Ball-Cap.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2435" title="HL Ball Cap" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/HL-Ball-Cap.jpg" alt="HL Ball Cap 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="283" height="253" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;"><strong>1</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;"><strong>1</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;"><strong>1</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;"><strong>1</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>A Man&#8217;s Watch: the Polar Surveyor Chronograph</strong><br />
<a href="http://store.koboldwatch.com/collections/watches/products/polar-surveyor-redesign" target="_blank">Kobold Watch Company</a><br />
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">$8,850.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Kobold-Polar-Surveyor-Chrono.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2447" title="Kobold Polar Surveyor (Keep The Time - http://tinyurl.com/72d7u2j)" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Kobold-Polar-Surveyor-Chrono.jpg" alt="Kobold Polar Surveyor Chrono 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="317" height="240" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;"><strong>1</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;"><strong>1</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Possibly the Best Jeans You Can Buy</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.raleighworkshop.com/" target="_blank">Raleigh Denim Workshop</a><br />
Raleigh, North Carolina<br />
Around $285.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0396.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-2068" title="Jeans at The Curatory" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/DSC_0396-1024x685.jpg" alt="DSC 0396 1024x685 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="398" height="266" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>The Blue Crab Belt</strong><br />
<a href="http://knotclothing.com/" target="_blank">Knot Belt &amp; Clothing Co.</a><br />
Boston, Massachusetts<br />
$38.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Knot-Blue-Crab-Belt.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2465" title="Knot Blue Crab Belt" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Knot-Blue-Crab-Belt.jpg" alt="Knot Blue Crab Belt 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="346" height="259" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Lessons From a Master Retailer<br />
</strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Lessons-Learned-Bergdorf-Goodman/dp/1609013182" target="_blank">The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman<br />
</a>by Ira Neimark<br />
Fairfield, Connecticut</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">$32.50<span style="color: #ffffff;">1<a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/The-Rise-of-Fashion-3D-BOOK-COVER.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-2469" title="The Rise of Fashion-3D-BOOK-COVER" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/The-Rise-of-Fashion-3D-BOOK-COVER-852x1024.jpg" alt="The Rise of Fashion 3D BOOK COVER 852x1024 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="368" height="442" /></a></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Colored Dress Shoe Laces</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.hookandalbert.com/dress-shoelaces-at-hook-CID269.aspx" target="_blank">hook + ALBERT</a><br />
New York, New York</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">From $14.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/H+A-Laces-Pack1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-2434" title="H+A Laces Pack" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/H+A-Laces-Pack1-1024x681.jpg" alt="H+A Laces Pack1 1024x681 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="430" height="286" /></a><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Leather Lock Briefcase</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.lotuffclegg.com/products/Leather-Lock-Briefcase.html" target="_blank">Lotuff Leather</a><br />
Ware, Massachusetts</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">$950.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/LC-Leather-Lock-Briefcase.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2473" title="LC Leather Lock Briefcase" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/LC-Leather-Lock-Briefcase.jpg" alt="LC Leather Lock Briefcase 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="480" height="336" /></a><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Purple Pinedot Tie</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.drakes-london.com/ties/woven-8cm-pindot-silk-tie" target="_blank">Drakes London</a><br />
London, United Kingdom</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">£95.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Drakes-Purple-Pin-Dot.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2476" title="Drakes Purple Pin Dot" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Drakes-Purple-Pin-Dot.jpg" alt="Drakes Purple Pin Dot 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="517" height="579" /></a><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>CD-15 Notebooks</strong><br />
<a href="http://europeanpaper.com/brand/apica/" target="_blank">Apica</a><br />
Japan</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Set of three, $10.80</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Apica-Notebooks.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2479" title="Apica Notebooks" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Apica-Notebooks.jpg" alt="Apica Notebooks 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="384" height="384" /></a><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>The Arte Italiana Milord Fountain Pen</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.bertramsinkwell.com/Omas-Arte-Italiana-Resin-Black-Vegetal-HT-Milord-Fountain-Pen.html" target="_blank">OMAS</a><br />
Bologna, Italy</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">$425.00</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Omas-Arte-italiana-resin-fountain-pen1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2515" title="Omas Arte Italiana Fountain Pen_2" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Omas-Arte-italiana-resin-fountain-pen1.jpg" alt="Omas Arte italiana resin fountain pen1 2011 Holiday Wish List" width="584" height="148" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #ffffff;">1</span></p>
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		<item>
		<title>The Resurgence of Style; How Did We Get Here?</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/resurgence-style</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/resurgence-style#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2011 02:25:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=2191</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Do you remember the 1990s? It was a decade of change; serious social and sartorial paradigm shifting – to use a very ‘90s term.  Back then, the rules which governed the very concept of business attire and professional decorum were being tossed out the window wholesale. Prior to the dot-com revolution, suits were de rigueur [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/ralphlaurenfashionshow20110915_0009a.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-2199" title="NYC Street (Fred C., Unabashedly Prep)" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/ralphlaurenfashionshow20110915_0009a-231x300.jpg" alt="ralphlaurenfashionshow20110915 0009a 231x300 The Resurgence of Style; How Did We Get Here?" width="231" height="300" /></a>Do you remember the 1990s? It was a decade of change; serious social and sartorial paradigm shifting – to use a very ‘90s term.  Back then, the rules which governed the very concept of business attire and professional decorum were being tossed out the window wholesale.</p>
<p>Prior to the dot-com revolution, suits were de rigueur in most offices and the concept of “corporate casual” had not yet been birthed; at least not in the mainstream workplace.  As the internet revolution gained steam and started to impact how we did business and even thought about business, our work wardrobes too began to change.</p>
<p>As they shuffled to the closet each morning, men started to pine for the glories of casual comfort.  Just like those Silicon Valley guys who seemed to be living the real American Dream, lawyers and accountants, statisticians and bureaucrats all started to ask for work wear flexibility.  This was the beginning of a sartorial revolution that, ironically, would lead full-circle to the current resurgence of dressing up and dressing well.</p>
<p>Remember the young hotshot exec in those 1998 Westin Hotel <a href="http://adland.tv/commercials/westin-whos-he-sleeping-1998-030-usa" target="_blank">TV spots</a> who was so successful that he got away with wearing jeans to the office?  Scandalous! That was big stuff back then.  He was a rock star.</p>
<p>As I have noted before, the resurgence in men’s interest in fashion, personal style and for some, a near-obsession with quality and heritage, is largely due to the current generation looking to their parents for guidance and instead seeing 50 year-old college wanabes.</p>
<p>Today’s 20 and 30 year-olds are rebelling against their parent’s generation because, basically, they are kind of slobs.   Not only do many of today’s dads have little personal style, they also deign to find value in things that even sniff of vanity or taste.</p>
<p>The generation that matured under the influence of grunge music, Old Navy as office wear and a cultural rejection of “corporate influence” was groomed to treat any interest in style as effeminate and undesirable.  To them, the coat and tie was a yoke of bland depersonalization.  It was the embodiment of the “uniform” in all of its negative context.</p>
<p>Truth be told, this was a pretty accurate characterization.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Bike-Messenger.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-2213" title="Bike Messenger" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Bike-Messenger-300x249.jpg" alt="Bike Messenger 300x249 The Resurgence of Style; How Did We Get Here?" width="300" height="249" /></a>By the late 1980s and throughout the 1990s, office wear was, for the most part, boxy and bland, uninspired and uninspiring.  The cool kids wore jeans and Chuck Taylor’s to the office.  They had messenger bags and messy hair.  They worked in California.  They were smart, ironic and edgy and, most importantly, they were individuals.</p>
<p>They expressed individualism through nonconformity and discarding the sartorial symbols of traditional work.  To them, what they did mattered, not what they wore.  Sartorial rebellion was their visible call to arms.  Of course, such things are never so simple: by dressing in a deliberately rebellious and nonconformist fashion, they were themselves creating a new degree of conformity.  Dressing outside the cultural boundaries of the new code (i.e., dressing up) risked exclusion and social derision.</p>
<p>Fast forward to today and we have a near opposite situation.  What had then been new and fresh, innovative and freeing rapidly turned into an excuse to wear sweatpants to the office.  All those amazing perks that went along with the relaxed dress code – game rooms, personal concierge service, loaner Porches, company-provided grocery shopping and dog walking – all went away with the collapse of the dot.com bubble.  That pesky profitability thing just ruined it all.</p>
<p>However, the casual wardrobe stuck in there.  It was seen as anachronistic and unnecessary to once again don a tie or suit if you did not absolutely have to do so.  “Why does it matter” was the thought.  Work and results were the point, not how you dressed.  To be sure, there was some retrenching on dress codes, but it was largely confined to traditionally formal environments like law and corporate offices.</p>
<p>While the dot.com implosion dented casual office wardrobes, it had not totally invalidated the concept.  Khakis and polo shirts persisted.  In the eyes of some though, lack of “appropriate” office dress belied a deeper cultural issue: a lack of respect and accountability for one’s self and work.  This viewpoint is often tied to professions in which earning a client’s confidence is vital (why should I entrust my fortune to a banker in a tee shirt or my international merger to some kid dressed for golf?).</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Scott-S.-The-Sartorialist.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-2205" title="Scott S., The Sartorialist" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Scott-S.-The-Sartorialist-300x235.jpg" alt="Scott S. The Sartorialist 300x235 The Resurgence of Style; How Did We Get Here?" width="300" height="235" /></a>As the economy picked up through the mid-2000s and a new generation of hotshots started looking for ways to express both their financial success and – here’s that word again – individuality, many turned not to their pleated and over sized polo-clad parents, but to each other.</p>
<p>Through revolutionary blogs like Scott Schuman’s <a href="http://www.thesartorialist.com" target="_blank">Sartorialist</a>, guys saw how to dress with genuine style and flair.  Real people with real taste; not a runway or catalog or magazine but the streets of New York.  And sites like the one you are now reading, Andy Gilcrest&#8217;s <a href="http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/" target="_blank">Ask Andy</a> (the founding father of menswear blogs) and Will Boehlke’s <a href="http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/" target="_blank">A Suitable Wardrobe</a>, provided the kind of detailed sartorial and style information simply not previously available.</p>
<p>This up-and-coming generation of young men took it upon themselves to learn about the history of men’s style, its variations and traditions.  Most importantly, they started to talk about it with each other.  Bypassing their parent&#8217;s generation altogether, the inspiration we now see comes from the golden ages of menswear: the 1920s through 1950s.</p>
<p>The success of TV&#8217;s Mad Men has also awakened a belated appreciation of 1960s streamlined, swanky, cocktail-swilling manliness.  An entire subculture has developed, fixated on analyzing the remarkable period execution of the show&#8217;s producers and set dressers.</p>
<p>With all this as a cultural backdrop, more blogs began popping up and more Sartorialist-inspired photographers began posting examples of outfits and clothing details.  When OTC first launched six years ago, it was one of perhaps five menswear-focused blogs.  Now there are scores, covering all aspects of men’s fashion.  Some come and go; some last.  Some are shallow vanity projects with nothing of substance to offer anyone.  Others, like the innovative <a href="http://putthison.com/post/10287901291/put-this-on-season-one" target="_blank">Put This On</a> blend video shorts with clever and genuinely practical advice.</p>
<p>The audiences for these sites continue to grow.  And it&#8217;s not just Wall Street I-bankers looking for the right Rolex.  Many of these men want a detailed understanding of proper suit construction, the differences between mechanical and automatic watch movements, the provenance of a Ghurka briefcase or the hallmarks of a handmade shoe.</p>
<p>When the crash of 2008 tore the confidence and pay checks from massive swaths of the population, an interesting thing happened.  As expected, a degree of formality and sobriety returned to many workplaces.  Some companies chose to reestablish guidelines for work attire; some tightly defining office casual and others requiring traditional business dress.</p>
<p>The reaction among menswear and style bloggers was not to rise up against conformity but to double down.  They demanded from each other and the fashion world more choices, greater quality, customization and the rediscovery of, for lack of a better term, dandyism.  And while sites like <a href="http://www.ivy-style.com/" target="_blank">IVY STYLE</a> revel in the joys of East Coast preppy culture (incredibly popular in its own right), not all influencers have their gaze set to the rear view mirror.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/StreetEtiquette.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-2203" title="StreetEtiquette, Joshua and Travis" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/StreetEtiquette-300x196.jpg" alt="StreetEtiquette 300x196 The Resurgence of Style; How Did We Get Here?" width="300" height="196" /></a>For some of these bloggers, taking classic style traditions and breathing into them new life is a goal in and of itself.</p>
<p>Last year, I organized a blogger meet-up for <a href="http://www.alanflussercustom.com/" target="_blank">Alan Flusser</a>, the noted menswear designer and author who created Gordon Gecko&#8217;s wardrobe for the movie Wall Street.  Normally accustomed to captains of industry and fashion royalty, his audience that night consisted of young menswear bloggers; a new generation looking to blend traditional style with modern sensibilities.  It was eye opening.</p>
<p><a href="http://streetetiquette.com/" target="_blank">Street Etiquette</a> is a leading example of this classic/urban hybrid which is powering much of the interest in menswear.  Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs, who both attended the Flusser event, are seriously influential guys with creative, detail-oriented points of view.</p>
<p>Alan is adapting to this new generation’s sensibilities.  Recently revamping his showroom to reflect a cleaner, Art Deco feel and tweaking his house silhouette a bit, he understands that the influencers of today are less likely to be him, and more his kids&#8217; peers.  Nonetheless, he and other fashion luminaries like G. Bruce Boyer are not sitting still, reflecting in their past glories.</p>
<p>Still influential and still sartorially authoritative, Alan&#8217;s innovative iPhone apps, <a href="http://www.bespeak.com/" target="_blank">BeSpeak</a> and <a href="http://www.snapdress.com/app/" target="_blank">Snap Dress</a>, are backed by complex algorithms which attempt to mimic his vast depth of knowledge.  They allow users to create truly customized wardrobe choices matched to their specific body and coloration profiles.  Alan Flusser in your pocket, as it were.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Grenson-Oxford.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-2197" title="Grenson Oxford" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Grenson-Oxford-287x300.jpg" alt="Grenson Oxford 287x300 The Resurgence of Style; How Did We Get Here?" width="287" height="300" /></a>Just take a tour of the websites and blogs dedicated to men’s fashion and style and you’ll find a master’s degree worth of examples in branding, content management, writing, photography and retailing.</p>
<p>I’ve lost track of the number of former bankers who have reached out to OTC to tell me about their custom suit, shirt or tie making venture.  For some, it&#8217;s all business and they see a market in dressing well.  For others, frankly more than I had expected, it&#8217;s a real desire to express a deep interest in helping people be their best.</p>
<p>Big names like <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/" target="_blank">MR PORTER</a>, the men’s division of NET-A-PORTER, combine retail flash sales with blog-worthy content.  Akin to a newspaper with its features and product write-ups, it’s clear that the site’s backers understand the single most important thing about getting a guy’s interest in fashion piqued: content.</p>
<p>For men, content is king and context is a close runner up.  And that is one of the great levelers brought by the internet to this debate; it democratized the issue of fashion and the relevance of style.  The blogs and sites which have succeeded and continue to wield influence present something useful and relevant.  They give their readers something worth reading, content with value and the historical and style-focused context to help put it all into perspective.</p>
<p>Hopefully, this installment provides just that.</p>
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		<title>Alan Flusser (Finally) Profiled in The Rake</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/alan-flusser-finally-profiled-rake</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/alan-flusser-finally-profiled-rake#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 May 2011 18:01:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Alan Flusser]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ivy League Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Newsstand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=1858</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Issue 15 of The Rake, out now, has a wonderful profile of OTC friend and legendary clothier, Alan Flusser.  Though not available in the United States, The Rake is having a significant impact on the modern meaning and execution of classic American style. Perhaps the only serious examination of classic menswear and men&#8217;s style on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.therakeonline.com/"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1868" title="Rake Issue 15" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Rake-Issue-15-223x300.jpg" alt="Rake Issue 15 223x300 Alan Flusser (Finally) Profiled in The Rake" width="223" height="300" /></a>Issue 15 of <a href="http://therakeonline.com/" target="_blank">The Rake</a>, out now, has a wonderful <a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Compendium_Flusser-RAKE.pdf" target="_blank">profile</a> of OTC friend and legendary clothier, Alan Flusser.  Though not available in the United States, The Rake is having a significant impact on the modern meaning and execution of classic American style.</p>
<p>Perhaps the only serious examination of classic menswear and men&#8217;s style on the news stand today, The Rake is a rich and intellectual celebration of what its publisher refers to as the &#8220;renaissance of gentlemanly sophistication and style.&#8221;</p>
<p>With that said, the hefty U.S. <a href="http://therakeonline.com/subscribe.html" target="_blank">subscription</a> fee may very well be worth the outlay.</p>
<p>We are also excited to point out that the article was assembled by two other OTC friends.  Christian Chensvold, founder of <a href="http://www.ivy-style.com/" target="_blank">Ivy Style</a> and a contributing editor at The Rake, penned the piece.  Fred Castleberry, founder of <a href="http://unabashedlyprep.com/" target="_blank">Unabashedly Prep</a>, took the outstanding photographs.  Both of their sites are knowledge-filled resources for those seeking advice, inspiration and, certainly in Ivy Style&#8217;s case, the stories behind East Coast / Ivy League style.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Alan_Flusser-Thanks-to-A-Suitable-Wardrobe.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1863" title="Alan_Flusser (Thanks to A Suitable Wardrobe)" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Alan_Flusser-Thanks-to-A-Suitable-Wardrobe-259x300.jpg" alt="Alan Flusser Thanks to A Suitable Wardrobe 259x300 Alan Flusser (Finally) Profiled in The Rake" width="181" height="210" /></a>Alan himself is a wonderful example of how classic style, or as he puts it &#8220;permanent fashion,&#8221; while timeless is not immutable.  The Custom Shop, Alan&#8217;s famous home base in Manhattan, has received a significant face lift and his English drape inspired house silhouette has similarly been refreshed a tad.</p>
<p>Does this mean Flusser is selling out and going for the trendy skinny look?  Not at all.  While the new Flusser drape suit is a touch slimmer and proportionally closer to the body, its inherent comfort, balance, flow and stylistic longevity are very much intact.  Anyone who knows Alan knows that he is far from a stuffed shirt.  His style and personality are equally colorful and expansive.</p>
<p>No slouch on the technical end of things, his <a href="http://www.bespeak.com/" target="_blank">BeSpeak</a> and <a href="http://www.snapdress.com/app/" target="_blank">SnapDress</a> iPhone applications are building a growing and devoted audience.  BeSpeak 2.0 is expected to launch later this year with even more functionality.</p>
<p>The Alan Flusser brand may evolving, but he is not changing its core values one bit.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/New-Flusser2-Luxist.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1864" title="New Flusser2 (Luxist)" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/New-Flusser2-Luxist-300x199.jpg" alt="New Flusser2 Luxist 300x199 Alan Flusser (Finally) Profiled in The Rake" width="240" height="159" /></a>To that end, the custom shop&#8217;s new streamlined and rakish look evokes Alan&#8217;s love of the Art Deco period and his proclivity for personal detail and refined understatement.</p>
<p>To learn more about Alan Flusser, visit the <a href="http://www.alanflussercustom.com/" target="_blank">Custom Shop&#8217;s website</a>, which itself is getting an overdue refreshing.</p>
<p>To view view The Rake&#8217;s article in PDF format, please visit <a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Compendium_Flusser-RAKE.pdf">The Rake Compendium, Alan Flusser.</a></p>
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		<title>The Blue Blazer: Your Sartorial Exoskeleton</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/style-guide-the-blue-blazer</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/style-guide-the-blue-blazer#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Feb 2011 21:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ivy League Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Preppy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.242.154/~offthec3/?p=301</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When it comes to wardrobe basics, one garment stands head and shoulders above all others.  The blue blazer. The backbone of any serious wardrobe, the blue blazer is probably one of the most versatile garments ever designed. Without a doubt, it is the one article of dress clothing all men should have hanging in the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/bcpocket_1.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1750" title="Linen Blue Blazer (Sartorialist)" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/bcpocket_1-200x300.jpg" alt="bcpocket 1 200x300  The Blue Blazer: Your Sartorial Exoskeleton" width="160" height="240" /></a>When it comes to wardrobe basics, one garment stands head and shoulders above all others.  The blue blazer.</p>
<p>The backbone of any serious wardrobe, the blue blazer is probably one of the most versatile garments ever designed. Without a doubt, it is the one article of dress clothing all men should have hanging in the closet. the blue blazer is universally useful and chameleon-like when it comes to meeting your needs in a sartorial pinch.  From casual cocktails to formal boardroom, a well made, well fitting blazer will get the job done.</p>
<p>When they hear “blue blazer” most guys tend to think of the classic brass button type found in a Ralph Lauren advertisement. Of course that version is the most traditional, but by no means is it the only option. Blue blazers come in a range of fabrics and styles that can work with almost anyone’s style &#8211; from lightweight linens to beefy flannels.</p>
<p>As the king of odd jackets, a blue blazer can fill the gap when you need to dress somewhere between a suit and a sweater, regardless of the season.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/BB-2B-Classic-Navy-Blazer.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-1746 alignright" title="BB 2B Classic Navy Blazer" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/BB-2B-Classic-Navy-Blazer.jpg" alt="BB 2B Classic Navy Blazer  The Blue Blazer: Your Sartorial Exoskeleton" width="176" height="214" /></a>Styles vary as much as materials. Some blazers have horn or resin buttons and they can come with single, double or no vents.  Single breasted jackets typically sport notched lapels while double-vented versions should have only those of the peaked variety.</p>
<p>With its nipped waist and dramatic massing of buttons, a double breasted blazer imparts formality. On the other hand, a single breasted sack jacket with no darting and patch pockets can give you a more casual “drinks at the club” New England look.</p>
<p>When it comes to shoulders, there are some cultural variations as well. American blazers often have a soft natural shoulder, while English tailors tend to prefer them padded and more structured. This is particularly true with double breasted jackets. American makers like <a href="http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&amp;Section_Id=679&amp;Product_Id=1489715&amp;Parent_Id=217&amp;default_color=NAVY&amp;sort_by=&amp;sectioncolor=&amp;sectionsize=" target="_blank">Brooks Brothers</a> are arbiters of the natural shoulder.</p>
<p>When shopping for a blue blazer, approach it as a major investment. This should be a jacket that can carry you for years to come and something that you are happy to reach for in the morning. A well constructed blazer made from good fabric will be as comfortable as your favorite sweatshirt and its classic styling will conquer the vagaries of many fashion cycles.  that said, you do not have to break the bank when it comes to finding one that&#8217;s right for you.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/02_large.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1745 alignleft" title="Indochino Admiral Blue Blazer" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/02_large-300x225.jpg" alt="02 large 300x225  The Blue Blazer: Your Sartorial Exoskeleton" width="240" height="180" /></a>Brands like J. Crew have spent years perfecting their version of the blue blazer  and in the process have made it into a cool must have wardrobe asset.  Online custom clothier <a href="http://www.indochino.com/product/The-Admiral-Navy-Blazer" target="_blank">Indochino</a> recently launched its take on the classic double breasted blue blazer.  For a mere $300 you can have a blazer made just for you.  While this interpretation, geared toward a slightly more adventurous gentleman actually cuts a balanced and fresh look.</p>
<p>The blue blazer works because of its inherent versatility and balance between formal and comfortable. It’s one of those rare garments that has both stood the test of time and evolved to meet the needs of each generation.</p>
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		<title>A Professor Look For The Real World</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/a-professor-look-for-the-real-world</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/a-professor-look-for-the-real-world#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 16:01:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ivy League Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wardrobe/Clothing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.242.154/~offthec3/?p=227</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A few years ago, I wrote about achieving what I broadly referred to as the “college professor” look. Grounded more in cherished stereotype than classroom fact, the tweeds, corduroy, tortoise shell glasses and leather dispatch case round out an idealized look. While more inspiration than practical, this style embodies classic Ivy League charm and blends [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275055072987089586" class="alignleft" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px; border: 0pt none;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_fiOqQcVJP_g/STTCo_QEirI/AAAAAAAACLw/xyHTE7ifWJs/s200/JC+Washed+HB+Jacket.jpg" border="0" alt="JC+Washed+HB+Jacket A Professor Look For The Real World" width="200" height="200" title="A Professor Look For The Real World" />A few years ago, I wrote about achieving what I broadly referred to as the “<a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/mastering-the-college-professor-look" target="_blank">college professor</a>” look.  Grounded more in cherished stereotype than classroom fact, the tweeds, corduroy, tortoise shell glasses and leather dispatch case round out an idealized look.</p>
<p>While more inspiration than practical, this style embodies classic Ivy League charm and blends well with the current brainy/East Coast preppy trend.</p>
<p>Having so dispensed with the hypothetical, I felt suitably up to the challenge when one of my closest friends, a high school teacher, asked me to write a column on how he could upgrade his professorial wardrobe.  The real deal, as it were.</p>
<p>His everyday wardrobe is fairly casual; khakis, jeans, polo shirts and sweaters are staples.  Though he’s never been a suit and tie kind of guy, Bob (not his real name of course) now wants to dress in a more professional manner.  He runs a major department at his school, which also means a fair amount of public exposure, and wants a wardrobe to reflect this level of responsibility.</p>
<p>He wants to project authority and professionalism without looking overdone, and in this case a daily coat and tie would be overdone.  He’s not a banker, he’s a teacher; but does not mean he isn’t a professional.  Bob is very good at what he does and wants his appearance to project that ability and experience.</p>
<p>What is needed here is an in-between look; professional but not stuffy, relaxed but still grown up.  One of the quickest ways to do this is by focusing on fit and tailoring.  You don’t have to give up your personal style to pull on a more polished look because you’re not changing who you are.  But you do need to pay attention to how you translate your personal tastes into a more refined style.</p>
<p>In Bob’s case, as with many guys stuck in a dressing-for-college-class mindset, that means making a few key changes.  Often, the simplest things make the biggest impact.  Ditch shapeless worn out khakis in favor of tailored pants and swap baggy, faded jeans for fitted dark washed ones instead.  Rather than rely on sweatshirts, try pima cotton crew neck or v-neck sweaters.  It’s all about reinterpreting your outdated college-era wardrobe for the grown up you.</p>
<p>For many men, navigating the waters of business wardrobes without the benefit of a business suit can be a little scary.  Suits are easy and authoritative.  But for someone in Bob’s situation, a suit makes no sense.</p>
<p>In his case, odd jackets and blazers are the best solution.  An odd jacket, be it corduroy, tweed, flannel or cotton, will provide the formality and authority of a suit coat but do in a comfortable and relaxed fashion.</p>
<p>Odd jackets can also be paired with almost any kind of outfit and give it a polished, finished look.  And these days a jacket does not automatically necessitate a tie.  I love ties, I personally think they are a wonderful way to express personality.  But achieving a complete outfit sans tie is easily done with this kind of dressing.  Layer a fine gauge sweater over a patterned shirt, or added a pocket square.  These approaches can provide needed texture, color and detail.</p>
<p>Paying attention to fit and detail can lead to innovative discoveries.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Bonobos2.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1698" title="Bonobos Detail" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Bonobos2-300x192.jpg" alt="Bonobos2 300x192 A Professor Look For The Real World" width="240" height="154" /></a>Bonobos, for example, makes truly innovative khakis.  Not your plain old wardrobe staple, <a href="http://www.bonobos.com/" target="_blank">Bonobos</a> pants are contoured and cut to actually fit a body and fit it well.  They have legitimately changed the playing field when it comes to casual pants.  With a uniquely shaped waist line that wraps around your midsection in a way that eliminates so-called &#8220;diaper butt,&#8221; where the seat of your khakis bunches up, creating an unflattering silhouette.</p>
<p>A simple strait leg and lightly updated classic designs help Bonobos become the best option for a casually professional pant.  The brand is also moving into jackets, shirts and partnering with other equally innovative brands.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Bonobos3.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-1697" title="Bonobos Fit" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Bonobos3.jpg" alt="Bonobos3 A Professor Look For The Real World" width="200" height="150" /></a>Yes, it does mean investing in a new type of wardrobe, and some of that investing can be pricey – especially if Bob expands his shopping horizons and comes to appreciate the outstanding fit and quality of, say, a Brioni sport coat.</p>
<p>Frankly though, that is not the ultimate goal.  You do not need to idealize famous clothing brands in an effort to dress well and project a stylish, confident – and confidence inspiring, for that matter – look.</p>
<p>The real point is that Bob will now be buying clothes that can last for life and can be added to over time.  He is creating a new kind of wardrobe that can grow and evolve as he and his career grow and evolve.  The fact that he wants to do all this is the most important thing of all.  We are judged by how we look and how we carry ourselves.  These days, now more so than ever, you are in charge of your career and you are your best marketing consultant.</p>
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		<title>Sartorialist for Intel&#8217;s Visual Life Series</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/sartorialist-intels-visual-life-series</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/sartorialist-intels-visual-life-series#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2011 17:43:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Master Craftsmen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=1616</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I had the pleasure of hanging out with Scott while he was in DC during his book tour and found him to be a particularly insightful and thoughtful guy.  He has a genuinely distinctive view on fashion and style, often seeing the trees for the forest &#8211; the glove, the scarf, a unique bracelet or [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had the pleasure of hanging out with Scott while he was in DC during his book tour and found him to be a particularly insightful and thoughtful guy.  He has a genuinely distinctive view on fashion and style, often seeing the trees for the forest &#8211; the glove, the scarf, a unique bracelet or pair of rockin&#8217; socks peeking out from behind a classic cap toe.  The fact that OTC and many others illustrate our stories with his images speaks to what the <a href="http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com" target="_blank">Sartorialist.com</a> means to the sartorial community.</p>
<p>This short documentary reminds me of why Scott has achieved his exceptional level of success.</p>
<p><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="599" height="389" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/e5NgG5koPZU?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" /><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="599" height="389" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/e5NgG5koPZU?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></embed></object></p>
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		<title>Defending Elitism in 2011</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/defending-elitism</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/defending-elitism#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jan 2011 20:20:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ivy League Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cultural]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://66.147.242.154/~offthec3/?p=203</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Happy New Year. If you are an avid follower of Off the Cuff, you&#8217;re probably an elitist. This heady topic is one that we debate often here at OTC.  And as Capitol Hill here in Washington, D.C., prepares for an ideological and partisan handover, that word is again popping up. &#8220;Elite.&#8221; Grab a brandy and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_fiOqQcVJP_g/SM_vgr1zgFI/AAAAAAAABbw/6-bEMz8wWpY/s1600-h/snob+with+wine+glass.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246675435713167442" class="alignleft" style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; border: 0pt none;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_fiOqQcVJP_g/SM_vgr1zgFI/AAAAAAAABbw/6-bEMz8wWpY/s200/snob+with+wine+glass.jpg" border="0" alt="snob+with+wine+glass Defending Elitism in 2011" width="159" height="200" title="Defending Elitism in 2011" /></a><span style="color: #993300;"><em><strong>Happy New Year. If you are an avid follower of Off the Cuff, you&#8217;re probably an elitist.</strong></em></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #993300;"><em><strong>This heady topic is one that we debate often here at OTC.  And as Capitol Hill here in Washington, D.C., prepares for an ideological and partisan handover, that word is again popping up. &#8220;Elite.&#8221;</strong></em></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #993300;"><em><strong>Grab a brandy and settle into your distressed leather club chair, this is a long one.  Enjoy and of course, feel free to discuss. And please don&#8217;t despair; we&#8217;ll shortly be diving into such weighty subjects as the history of Brooks Brothers and OTC&#8217;s favorite grooming products.<br />
</strong></em></span></p>
<p>While the stunningly elegant halls of Congress are a mere five-minute stroll away, OTC is not a political site.  Indeed, classic taste reflected in modern times favors no party or ideology.  Frankly, if you are able to hold a reasoned debate over any mildly complex or potentially volatile issue (and order a Hendricks &amp; tonic without losing your train of thought), you&#8217;re halfway to having great personal style anyway.</p>
<p>That said, the theoretically pejorative term &#8220;elitist&#8221; is starting to get tossed around again, and since we all clearly fit that description, it&#8217;s worth a look.  Wait, you don&#8217;t think you&#8217;re one of them?  You aren&#8217;t an elitist?  Really&#8230;</p>
<p>Are you jazzed by dead stock selvage denim straight from the warehouse in Tokyo?  Are you all about working surgeon&#8217;s cuffs and double vents?  Do you know what the heck a surgeon&#8217;s cuff is?  Do you carry a Filson briefcase to highlight your &#8220;authentic American workwear&#8221; aesthetic?  Do you tweet about vintage Rolex auctions or dig ACL&#8217;s co-branding project with J.Crew (do you automatically know what ACL stands for)? Do you have or want anything custom made? Do you have a favorite brand of khakis? Do you read Monocle?</p>
<p>Like I said&#8230;</p>
<p>America has always celebrated the underdog – it is part of our national psyche.  We appreciate hard work, determination and sacrifice.  We relish our ability to overcome the randomness of one’s initial station in life and make of it what we wish.   That previous list of elitist pastimes and obsessions holds no interest to <em>real </em>folks. Jeans? You should have one pair and not give a hoot who made them.  And if cost more than $25.00, well, your priorities are mixed up.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/colbert_elitist_1_061008.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1591" title="Colbert 0610" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/colbert_elitist_1_061008-300x225.jpg" alt="colbert elitist 1 061008 300x225 Defending Elitism in 2011" width="300" height="225" /></a>We loudly tout the honesty and satisfaction of a tough fight to the top of the heap over the soft gifts of heredity and privilege; that is of course until we are the beneficiaries of such heredity and privilege.  Then, maybe, it’s not such a bad thing. Perspective&#8230;&#8230;.you know.</p>
<p>As a culture we admire the iconic all-American blue collar worker who earns an honest living and whose common sense usually works better then the highbrow babble of out-of-touch politicians and Ivy League &#8220;thought leaders.&#8221; We temper the idealized image of middle-America with an appreciation for the fruits of hard work: financial success and advancement, education and intellectual growth.</p>
<p>We tell our kids to value learning and to reach for the stars, to work towards a better life while not forgetting where they come from.  And always we hear the same mantra repeated across <em>all</em> socioeconomic classes:  I want my kids to have it better than I did.</p>
<p>How is it then, that being smart, well educated, worldly and cultured is a bad thing?  Striving to achieve great success though hard work and dedication is a positive trait, but actually achieving it seems to be negative.  Appreciating different cultures, expanding one’s horizons and enjoying the finer things in life are portrayed as an abandonment of “real” America.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Obama-hope-posters.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1590" title="Obama hope posters" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Obama-hope-posters-300x200.jpg" alt="Obama hope posters 300x200 Defending Elitism in 2011" width="210" height="140" /></a>This being Washington, President Barack Obama tends to be the poster child for the classic Ivy League, white wine sipping, arugula eating, overly intellectual elitist. The subtext is clear &#8211; if one is overtly smart or refined, worldly or intellectual, it would appear that he is an “elitist.”  The tone often accompanying this pronouncement reminds me of when people were slapped with labels like “commie” or “pinko.”  It is meant as an insult; a sort of cultural betrayal.</p>
<p>The president did graduate from Columbia University and Harvard Law School, where he was also president of the Harvard Law Review; three things, by the way, I would be quite proud to to announce whenever possible had I achieved any of them.  He is handsome and photogenic, dresses well, can give one heck of a speech (at least on the campaign trail) and is clearly an intellectual sort of guy, occasionally to his detriment.</p>
<p>And yet all of that hard work and sacrifice, all of that dedication is often chalked up to elitism in the most pejorative use of the word.  Has he not done what we counsel children every day to do?  Mr. Obama was not given any of these successes as gifts – he worked for them.  But the question remains: does any of this make him an elitist?  And what exactly is an elitist?  And even if he (or you or I) is one, why is that bad?</p>
<p>My mother once sent me a newspaper clipping titled, <em>“In praise of social climbing.”</em> She liked the fact that the author put that often-maligned practice into context: social climbing is nothing more than networking with a purpose.  It helps you succeed in a career, meet new people, take advantage of opportunities and just get out there in the world.  Today we call such social climbing &#8220;LinkedIn.com.&#8221;</p>
<p>That is how I view this elitist brouhaha: it’s a PR issue. Take the genuinely impressive accomplishments of one man&#8217;s life and slap the label of elitist all over them and he is reduced to the caricature of an effete and out of touch snob. Regardless of your political leaning, that’s just wrong.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Yale-Gate.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-1594" title="Yale Gate" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Yale-Gate.jpg" alt="Yale Gate Defending Elitism in 2011" width="219" height="230" /></a>To be bipartisan about this, let&#8217;s remember that President George W. Bush graduated from Yale and Harvard universities.  And he didn&#8217;t go to public high school, he attended Phillips Academy &#8211; about as old school prep as humanly possible.  President Bush&#8217;s family history is riddled with elitist lawyers, senators, governors and of course presidential parents.  He is a member of Yale&#8217;s legendary Skull &amp; Bones secret society and his significant wealth is primarily inherited &#8211; fine with us by the way.  Now, <em>that&#8217;s</em> elitist!</p>
<p>Encouraging growth, success and intellectual expansion but then bashing its achievement  is indeed a bad thing.  Tossing around polarized labels like &#8220;elitist&#8221; not only encourage small thinking but also creates a deterrence to the open appreciation of things like art and music, wine, culture and intellectualism.</p>
<p>It sends our kids a mixed message, but it also makes me look bad. I went to college and earned two master’s degrees – what a royal mistake that was.  I like good food, design and, obviously, well made clothes.  Worse, I ponder such issues as global relations, the long term social impact of our acquisitive culture and when I can afford a nice pair of handmade brogues.</p>
<p>I have written on such arcane topics as merino wool trumping cashmere and the unlikely role of Ralph Lauren as a historian of American social culture. You have willingly debated with me which mechanical watches are the best.  Yep – we are all über elitists.</p>
<p><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/RL_slim_1_14.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1593" title="RL_slim_1_14" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/RL_slim_1_14-300x201.jpg" alt="RL slim 1 14 300x201 Defending Elitism in 2011" width="300" height="201" /></a>And what of it?  This wonderful forum has grown into a global resource for nearly 25,000 people every month.  Readers from more countries than I can count stop by to learn something new, leave a comment or find an inspiration for expressing their own personal style.</p>
<p>We question and challenge each other and each, hopefully, walks away with a better perspective on life.  We celebrate craftsmanship and individual style because to us, each represents an expression of personal achievement.  We are not happy being provincial and holding to a tunnel vision of the world.</p>
<p>So, if all that makes me an elitist, I will proudly wear the label ( I hope you do too).  Happy New Year and look for even more changes for OTC in 2011!</p>
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		<title>OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List</title>
		<link>http://offthecuffdc.com/otc-holidays-2010-list</link>
		<comments>http://offthecuffdc.com/otc-holidays-2010-list#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Dec 2010 07:30:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>OTC</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Holiday]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Style Guides]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://offthecuffdc.com/?p=1438</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It&#8217;s that time of year again, when OTC looks back, forward and all over the place to try to track down some interesting ideas for holiday gift giving.  So, whether you are looking for the right present for that special guy or just something for yourself, take look at our picks. There are literally hundreds [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>It&#8217;s that time of year again, when OTC looks back, forward and all over the place to try to track down some interesting ideas for holiday gift giving.  So, whether you are looking for the right present for that special guy or just something for yourself, take look at our picks.</em></p>
<p><em>There are literally hundreds of things we could have put on the list, but what you see here is an edited, creative collection of items at varying price points that has a little something for everyone.  Also, you may not recognize some of the names and that&#8217;s by design; meet some new brands and learn a little more about a few you may already know.</em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/tumi-speaker-1.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1443" title="tumi-speaker-1" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/tumi-speaker-1-300x211.jpg" alt="tumi speaker 1 300x211 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="210" height="148" /></a>Travel Spe</strong><strong>aker from <a href="http://www.tumi.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4436540&amp;prodFindSrc=paramNav" target="_blank">Tumi</a></strong></p>
<p>We are not too big on gadgets here at OTC &#8211; and iPhone, Nikon D80 and laptop are about it.  Maybe Santa will bring us an iPad?!  Well, add one more thing to the list &#8211; this Tumi travel speaker.</p>
<p>This little thing is a wonder.  Connect it to your iPhone/mp3/laptop and hit play; the speaker uses the hard surface on which it rests to create the rich, well-rounded sound.</p>
<p>There is only one speaker and that&#8217;s all you&#8217;ll need.  It&#8217;s a pretty amazing little tool that we will make sure to have on the carry-on.  And when you are ready to get going, everything zips into a handy Tumi ballistic travel case.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Necktie-Quilt.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1445" title="Necktie Quilt" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Necktie-Quilt-300x225.jpg" alt="Necktie Quilt 300x225 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="198" height="149" /></a>Repp Tie Quilt from <a href="http://quiltsbykate.blogspot.com/2008/02/latest-project-necktie-quilt.html" target="_blank">.</a></strong><strong><a href="http://quiltsbykate.blogspot.com/2008/02/latest-project-necktie-quilt.html" target="_blank">..quilts by kate&#8230;</a></strong></p>
<p>Have a whole bunch of old ties that no longer make the daily cut but you can&#8217;t part with?  Here&#8217;s a pretty cool solution; pack &#8216;em up and ship them off to &#8230;quilts by kate&#8230; and she&#8217;ll create a custom quilt like this.</p>
<p>Something different, snazzy and kind of green too &#8211; it is a form of sartorial recycling.  And you may want to put it down for a father&#8217;s day gift as Kate already has a months-long backlog.</p>
<p>Is this for everyone?  No.  But if you&#8217;re intrigued make sure to check her out because yes, she makes a darn cool quilt.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Ventus-Brown-Leather-Profile.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1441" title="Ventus Brown Leather Profile" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Ventus-Brown-Leather-Profile-300x225.jpg" alt="Ventus Brown Leather Profile 300x225 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="198" height="149" /></a>Elementum Ventus </strong><strong>Sailing Watch by <a href="http://www.suunto.com/en/Products/Premium-Sports-Watches/Suunto-Elementum/Suunto-Elementum-Ventus/" target="_blank">Suunto</a></strong></p>
<p>Reviewed on OTC last year, this Suunto Ventus is a sophisticated yet elegant sailing timepiece with  features that help predict upcoming weather, an  advanced compass for navigation and a sailing timer for the perfect race  start.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s digital and thoroughly modern looking but has ocean-tested functionality that makes it truly unique.  Also, the leather strap is a work of art that helps bridge preppy and modern particularly well.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s a real tool watch, something that was purpose-built and made to be used and we love that.  Typically, we wax poetic about the mechanical Swiss thing, but in this case it&#8217;s all about Finalnd, because that&#8217;s where each one is made.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Drakes-Hanks.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1451" title="Drakes London Hanks" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Drakes-Hanks-266x300.jpg" alt="Drakes Hanks 266x300 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="160" height="180" /></a>Classic silk pocket squares from <a href="http://www.drakes-london.com/classic-silk-handkerchiefs" target="_blank">Drakes London</a></strong></p>
<p>Pretty much anything from the workshop of Micheal Drake is worth having, so if you have the opportunity, have at it.</p>
<p>His accessories are especially outstanding and  these hanks are both exquisitely crafted and timelessly classic.  In fact, Drakes makes some of the ties and square carried by the likes of Alan Flusser.  And the company is modern enough to have partnered with Monocle magazine on a few items for their retail shop.</p>
<p>These pocket squares, or &#8216;hanks&#8217; to you Anglophiles are a great example of the Drakes&#8217; standard. They will never go out of style, work with everything and give you that touch of flair to pull your outfit together.</p>
<p>Expensive? Yep.  Worth it? Yep.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Andrews-Ties-Bloomberg-Image.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1452" title="Andrews Ties (Bloomberg Image)" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Andrews-Ties-Bloomberg-Image-300x175.jpg" alt="Andrews Ties Bloomberg Image 300x175 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="216" height="126" /></a>A couple of new Dot Pois ties from <a href="http://www.andrewstiesusa.com/p-14-dot-pois.aspx" target="_blank">Andrews Ties</a></strong></p>
<p>This improbably named tie maker from Milano is probably one of the best deals out there you&#8217;ve never hear about.  Most of their hand-made all silk ties are $49.  Yes, that&#8217;s the correct price.</p>
<p>Weighty, densely woven and well-proportioned, these are darn good ties.  Keep an eye peeled for an outlet near you.  And if you&#8217;re passing through Washington D.C.&#8217;s Union Station, check out the surprisingly large shop near the Amtrak counter.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/SandS-Bag-ss0921.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1463" title="SandS Bag ss0921" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/SandS-Bag-ss0921-239x300.jpg" alt="SandS Bag ss0921 239x300 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="150" height="189" /></a>The No. SS0921 from <a href="http://www.apronandbag.com/bag6.html" target="_blank">S&amp;S Apron and Bag Company</a></strong></p>
<p>Stanley &amp; Sons was founded in 2008 and makes some pretty amazing bags one at a time &#8211; to order.  That means each one is unique and honestly one-of-a-kind.  Take the SS0921 over here &#8211; it&#8217;s made from old conveyor belts.</p>
<p>Now that&#8217;s re-purposing with a purpose.  It also means they&#8217;re not many to be made, so hurry up and get your order in.</p>
<p>Stanley Grodzki, the founder&#8217;s grandfather owned the original Apron &amp; Bag Company and this new Brooklyn based incarnation adheres to the original focus on quality and construction.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Washed-Wear-Shirt.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1462" title="Washed Wear Shirt" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Washed-Wear-Shirt-259x300.jpg" alt="Washed Wear Shirt 259x300 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="166" height="192" /></a>Washed Saturday Wear shirt from <a href="http://www.newenglandshirtco.com/shirts.html" target="_blank">New England Shirt Co.</a></strong></p>
<p>Custom, vintage-inspired and American heritage shirts are all over the web these days.  Shirts seem to be the new jeans &#8211; a style and make for every taste.</p>
<p>The New England Shirt Co., however, seems to have a real sense of honest history behind it, and it shows in the product.  Vintage enough to be cool but modern enough to have the fit and detail of something twice the price.</p>
<p>And these guys are the real deal.  As they like to put it, &#8220;In our 200 year-old factory in Fall River, Massachusetts, skilled craftspeople work very hard to create beautiful, honest, long-wearing shirts with a strong thread of integrity running right through them.&#8221;  Amen.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Monocle-Issue-39.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-1459" title="Monocle Issue 39" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Monocle-Issue-39.jpg" alt="Monocle Issue 39 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="148" height="196" /></a><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Rake-Paul-Smith-Issue.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1458" title="Rake Paul Smith Issue" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Rake-Paul-Smith-Issue-224x300.jpg" alt="Rake Paul Smith Issue 224x300 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="145" height="196" /></a>Subscription to two of the best magazines out there: <a href="http://monocle.com/" target="_blank">Monocle</a> and <a href="http://www.therakeonline.com/" target="_blank">THE RAKE</a></strong></p>
<p>Contrary to popular belief print is not dead.  It&#8217;s in the process of reinveting itself into something you cherish, come back to and carry around in your bag just so it&#8217;s nearby.</p>
<p>Both Monocle, with its world view approach and outstanding cultural reporting, and THE RAKE, with its elegantly detailed examination of menswear and sartorial life, are must-haves for any regular OTC reader.</p>
<p>Both of these subscriptions are by no means cheap, but if you follow Monocle&#8217;s weekly podcast, you are already versed on the future of print publishing and are happy to support the cause.</p>
<p>Where Monocle is witty, urbane and very neo-moderne,  THE RAKE is a celebration of male peacockery.  THE RAKE is that magazine &#8211; the one you always said should have been made and now, finally, is.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/PAN159s.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1461" title="PAN159s" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/PAN159s-300x220.jpg" alt="PAN159s 300x220 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="240" height="176" /></a>Panerai Luminor GMT from <a href="http://www.bernardwatch.com/watch/PAN159" target="_blank">Bernard Watch Co.</a></strong></p>
<p>For anyone looking to make a great impression on OTC, here&#8217;s a hint &#8211; send along a Panerai Luminor GMT.</p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t even have to be brand new; check out Bernard Watch Co., one of the leading secondary watch market sites.  OTC has worked with Austin, Texas-based, owner Jeff Bernard on numerous occasions and he&#8217;s a class act.  Bernard offers some of the best Swiss timepieces on the web at fair, market-based prices.  The 40mm version is just fine.  See, we&#8217;re easy.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Omas-360-Fountain-Pen.jpeg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1460" title="Omas 360 Fountain Pen" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Omas-360-Fountain-Pen-300x150.jpg" alt="Omas 360 Fountain Pen 300x150 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="270" height="135" /></a>A 360 Roller Ball Pen from <a href="http://www.omas.com/EN/Prodotti/Collezioni/360.html" target="_blank">Omas</a></strong></p>
<p>Italian pen maker Omas makes some of the most distinctive writing instruments out there.  And of their entire line, the 360 collection is the most striking.</p>
<p>The triangular-shaped barrel and cap are stunning in their simplicity of line and complexity of execution.  Though we clearly have fountain pen pictured here, and it is a great picture, the roller ball is the most practical version for most guys.  Regardless, any of the Omas 360 writing instruments will  say a whole lot about your personal sense of style when pulled out at the board table.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Alden4JCrew2.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1479" title="Alden x J.Crew" src="http://offthecuffdc.com/wp-content/uploads/Alden4JCrew2-300x173.jpg" alt="Alden4JCrew2 300x173 OTC for the Holidays: 2010 Wish List" width="270" height="156" /></a>Alden Longwings from <a href="http://www.jcrew.com/browse/single_product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441801287&amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302040762&amp;srcCode=GBASE&amp;noPopUp=true" target="_blank">J.Crew</a></strong></p>
<p>Alden is an American classic; based in Middleborough, Massachusetts, and about as old school a footwear company as you can get.  Think they were excited to have J.Crew come calling about a partnership?  No so much.</p>
<p>Head J.Crew menswear designer Frank Muytjens told me that they had to call back three times and explain to the owners who J.Crew was and why on earth they wanted to sell Alden shoes.</p>
<p>Well, thank god they did, because these are beauties. Classic but updated in an elegantly casual way &#8211; something that J. Crew has gotten very good at under Mr. Muytjens watch.</p>
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