Flusser Style 221x300 New Year’s Resolution: Show Some Personal StyleRecently, a reader posed an interesting question that gets to the heart of dressing well: does it matter what you wear when no one is looking?

This fellow has the benefit of often working from home and his “work” wardrobe rarely strays from tee shirts and shorts, or on a chilly day, some old jeans. For business trips, he does have a dated few suits that do little for him in terms of fit and style.

Though casual by nature, he very much feels that the only way to appear professional in a work setting is by wearing a suit.

While he does not seek to project an overly polished image, our reader is a consultant with a prominent firm and wants to find a more personally authentic way to dress when dressing up. Part of his problem is that like many men, he is afraid of delving into fashion. He sees the donning of a business suit as the only way to project polish, even though his few suits neither fit well nor compliment his build.

Our friend does not know how to modulate his work wardrobe to allow for other more creative – but professional – options that would let him express some personal creativity and professional style.

The Social Contract

Great Casual Style Source unknown 214x300 New Year’s Resolution: Show Some Personal StyleFor starters, let’s be clear; a suit is by no means the only “dress up” thing in a man’s wardrobe.

Too often, men see dressing well as a chore; something to avoid or against which they should fight. For some it’s simply a fear of being called a dandy, while for others it is a misguided sense of self-righteousness. This strain of logic asserts that by being sloppy or unconcerned about appearance, they are in fact fighting conformity and not buying into the “suit” thing – you know, being more “real.”

That philosophy usually ascribes that one simply conform to a different model of “conformity.” Dressing like a perpetual college student in order to make a statement is of course its own model of conformity. And, when your professional world is one in which a certain standard of decorum and presentation are expected, you will lose both the battle and the war.

Only today, the Wall Street Journal reported on the continued rise of “formal Fridays,” as the new tool of sartorial rebellion.

However, this does not mean that you must always look like a stuffed shirt to be taken seriously. The world of professional menswear has expanded significantly over the recent years. There is a world of style and personality between flip flops and a three piece suit.

The staff of Details magazine has some very helpful observations about finding a professional personal style.

Rolling out of bed and shuffling down the hall to check the email is not the point here. But, when you step out of the house or log onto a video conference, there is a certain social contract into which we all enter. What you are wearing and how you present yourself now matter. Once you start interacting with other people you ought to show them the same level social and sartorial respect you yourself would expect in return. You should make an effort to dress well because you want to, not because you must.

Being You

63809 517149481629833 1141156464 n 199x300 New Year’s Resolution: Show Some Personal StyleThe first rule in dressing well is that you should always be comfortable and true to yourself. The second, and equally important rule, is that whether you like it or not, people judge you by how you dress, how you carry yourself and treat others, your social skills, how you speak, etc.

Research has repeatedly shown that on average, it takes about eight seconds for someone to decide what kind of person you are based simply on your presentation; and it can take years to alter that initial perception. How you react to this universal truth is ultimately your choice.

Clothing is one our most obvious and influential social, cultural, and style markers. How you choose to dress directly impacts what people think about you and, often, what you think about yourself. And, rethinking your look does not always require radical changes. New jeans in a dark wash in a proper fit or buying some new dress shirts that work with or without a tie take make a huge difference in how the work world sees you.

In our reader’s case, it turns out he does not have to wear only a suit when he travels for business, so we suggested separates, including properly tailored sport coats and several new pair of dress pants. A new blue blazer, several dress shirts that actually fit him, and trim flat-front trousers all made a huge difference in his professional appearance.

Having everything properly sized and tailored costs a bit up front, but consider it a valuable capital investment. Our reader told us that how he sees himself as a person and a professional has changed dramatically and for the better.  Just as important; his co-workers have commented on his new polished, professional, and confident personality.

 

DF12 12.18 GQlo 104 GQ’s Glenn O’Brien: Setting Your Own Style Agenda

Recently, OTC had the chance to spend an evening with Glenn O’Brien, best known as GQ’s legendary Style Guy.  He was in town to celebrate the launch of the fall/winter GQ Style issue at DC’s elegant new nightspot, The Huxley.  Earlier in the day, we sat down with O’Brien at his suite in the Ritz Carlton.  While it is always fun to meet a well-known figure, perhaps the most impressive thing about Glenn is that style does not seem to impress him very much.

Without question, Glenn is on the inside of the fashion world.  He knows the people worth knowing and has access to the designers, brands, and luminaries we all read about.  Glenn is witty, wry, intellectual, and observant; traits which have served him well over the years.  However, for a “fashion” writer, he is an odd fit in the best of ways.  First and foremost, he’s a writer.  He is interested in people and stories, ideas and the world around him.  Glenn is far more curious about who you are than who you’re wearing.  If anyone has been there and that, it is Glenn.

Compared to the often overwrought dandies that populate the style blogosphere, Glenn O’Brien’s sense of style is wonderfully prosaic; suits, blazers, nice shirts, classic ties and jeans, and the occasional weathered biker jacket and Picasso beach shirt. He has a distinctive look and way of assembling these classic elements that reflect his own history and personality.  Glenn does not need to impress anyone with just-so outfits, skinny suits, or anachronistic dandyism.  Not that he is opposed to any of that, by the way; when asked about the landscape of today’s blog-driven fashion and vintage-inspired sensibilities, Glen embraced it all.  When is comes to trends and the vagaries of fashion, he’s very open-minded.  In fact, his favorite suit is actually from the mid 1990s.  “Yeah, it’s out of fashion, but I love it,” he says.

Scott S. The Sartorialist GQ’s Glenn O’Brien: Setting Your Own Style AgendaBlogs, he noted, have democratized the means by which style and fashion evolve.  “Say what you want about Scott’s [Schuman] site, but The Sartorialist has created a new way for people to explore fashion,” said O’Brien.  “The real-world nature of the photos is great; it allows you to experiment on your own and not rely on corporately constructed ensembles.”

That theme – the natural evolution of personal style, versus “assembled” style – was a thread woven throughout our conversation.  What the Style Guy appreciates most is personal expression and the willingness to value quality, construction, details, longevity, and patience.  Wear what you like and be proud of it.

This sentiment was best expressed when we chatted about mutual friend, the legendary menswear author and designer, Alan Flusser.  Alan, known for his impeccable style and ability to assemble beautifully classic wardrobes that best compliment the wearer’s coloration, physique, and personality, is also a fan of comfort.  One of his lesser appreciated skills is marrying the formal and informal – such as the day he sported a bespoke linen blazer and shirt, natty pocket square, electric blue Todd’s Gomminos, …and slate grey Nike wind pants.  Took about a half-hour to realize he was even wearing them because he made it work so seamlessly.

Such expressions of personal style are indeed personal, and they don’t work for everyone.  That’s OK; such is  the beauty of true style and importance of personal expression.  Real sartorial skills take time to learn and experience to develop.  Truly good style requires personal honesty, and when achieved is distinctive, admired – sometimes mocked – but often noteworthy.

We asked about something Flusser often states; that today there are no real male role models when it comes to style.  While there are celebrities who dress well, these stars are often outfitted by others who have mapped out a sponsored image for them.  Or, they dress by contract; disinterested in style themselves and playing the role of living mannequin to paying brands.

Alan Flusser 2011 Dennis C. GQ’s Glenn O’Brien: Setting Your Own Style AgendaGone are the days, says Flusser, when the likes of Cary Grant or Gary Cooper embodied the values of male sartorial attention to detail.  They had a keen appreciation of tailoring and personal expression and they understood the power of projection sophistication coupled with nonchalance.  True, notes O’Brien; but they also had the benefit of being studio actors who had at their disposal dedicated wardrobe departments.  Today’s celebrities are essentially freelancers, solo brands out to define and effectively telegraph their public persona – often for a fee.

When asked to name some leading male style role models, The Style Guy said that, frankly, the best dressed men he knows are often civilians – doctors, lawyers, businessmen. They simply have the interest, ability, and inclination to learn what works and what they actually like.  These everyday guys are not embarrassed to care about the details of fashion, and they appreciate its impact in their professions and how they are perceived.  That said, he did mention the likes of Andre 3000 and Rolling Stones drummer, Charlie Watts, as examples of well-known sartorial class acts.

Glenn is old school, and that is one of his strongest assets.  He is ecumenical when it comes to the breadth and depth of fashion out there today.  Never disparaging, he defended the popular “Made in Brooklyn” meme that is beginning to spawn its own bit of mockery.

“I’m tired of hearing about ‘ironic’ mustaches or ‘ironic’ Brooklyn shops.  There is no irony as far as I see,” he says.  “These folks looked around, saw the future, and said, ‘we don’t want that; we’re heading in the other direction.’  Good for them.”

All those handmade satchels, small batch suits, custom shirt makers, vintage fabric bow ties, and hand-welded city bicycles are what’s driving the resurgent interest in menswear and American urban style.  They are making real things that consumers want, and all that “irony” is being riffed on by the big corporate brands…ironically.

DF12 12.18 GQlo 117 GQ’s Glenn O’Brien: Setting Your Own Style Agenda

Watching Glenn work the room at DC hotspot, The Huxley, it was clear that he is someone comfortable in his own skin.  Overall, he was surrounded by a stylish crowd, although some guests were trying a bit too hard to be GQ-awesome while others appeared to have opted for a cautious DC law firm look.

Looking somewhat professorial in a simple Anderson & Sheppard grey suit, blue checked shirt, and yellow tartan tie he wore his famously inscrutable expression with aplomb.  When informed that we were chatting with O’Brien, Alan Flusser responded without hesitation, “Glenn is one of the few forces for intelligent manners and intelligent fashion.”

Gentlemen, all the way around.

 

2012 OTC Holiday Wish List

This year, OTC went looking for some great classic items that add to your sense of style, fill a real need, and posses the kind of quality that lets them last a good long time.  When we looked for this year’s choices, we turned to some brands yo know and some we hope you’ll get to know.  We also made a point of focusing on the basics, the stuff that sometimes gets lost along the way as well as some uniquely exceptional gifts for your self.

Regardless, a once-in-a-lifetime bespoke suit, a great pen, an exceptional tote, or some killer earphones can each make a big difference in your day-to-day life.

- Happy Holidays from the OTC team!

 

Birchbox Man

sev birchbox mens de 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListWe have had a chance to check out several gift box subscription services and the one which consistently stands out from the pack is Birchbox.

These folks always seems to find truly unique, useful, and stylish stuff for guys.  Our most recent box contained a set of whiskey stones to keep our Blanton’s Original Single Barrel bourbon chilled, a lovely little flack for a snoot on the go, and a sharp Rumba diver watch on a jaunty nylon strap.  And, for $20 a month, it is indeed the gift that keeps on giving.

 

A Jon Green Bespoke Suit

Jon Green Bespoke Fitting StyleForum 2012 OTC Holiday Wish List“Bespoke” is a term that every online MTM site seems to throw out with abandon.  You know how many of those “custom tailors” actually turn out anything remotely resembling bespoke? None.

Bespoke is a defined, established code of exacting craftsmanship achievable by only a rarefied few.  The making of a true bespoke suit takes time, money, patience, and a willingness to focus on what works for you and your physique.  In the United States, one of the finest bespoke clothiers around is Jon Green, of New York City.  Jon is both an obsessive craftsman and engaging gentleman.

Starting around $7,500 for a two-piece suit, these are not for everyone.  But, if you demand truly customized perfection in your garments, and you have several months to spare, Jon Green will provide you with the suit of your dreams – and your life.  And, when you look at it the context of your life, that is a fair price to pay for something you will always want to put on, year after year.

 

Baltz Exemplar+ Writing Instrument

Baltz Exemplar 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListA good pen is a lifelong companion.  With time, it’s useful functionality is gives way to familiarity and comfort.  It becomes part of your kit, your stuff; those things that go with you wherever it is you go.

Baltz Writing instruments are handmade in Raleigh, North Carolina, by former college pals, Bart Creasman and Cass Baltz.  They are dedicated to creating unique pens that stand apart from the masses, perform flawlessly, and through their distinctive design create a sense of expectation. Ranging in price from $175 to $280, they are an affordable luxury, and cost just enough to make sure you never misplace your pen.

 

Frank Clegg Signature Working Tote

FC Signature Working Tote 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListAnyone who reads OTC knows that we are huge fans of Frank Clegg, and have profiled several of his iconic pieces.  Frank’s commitment to handmade excellence is well-known, and owning a Clegg bag is a lifelong investment.

If there is one Frank Clegg bag that embodies both practical function and timeless style, it’s his Signature Working Tote ($680).  Beautiful and sturdy, this is a tote bag that you can use every day; from the boat to the boardroom.

Frank is more than the name on his bags’ very discrete labels.  If you have any questions, call the workshop and chances are, Frank will be the guy on the other end of the phone.

 

Hugh & Crye Shirts

HC 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListThe guys who run Hugh & Crye out of their Georgetown, DC, home base – Pranav Vora and Philip Soriano -  are passionate about their shirts, getting guys to to try them on, and developing the perfect fit.  In fact, Pranav and Philip are so passionate about what they do that American Express highlights the company in its small business TV commercials.

Hugh & Crye shirts (around $85) are cut for a generally athletic build, are solidly constructed, and made from outstanding fabrics Pranav and and Philip source themselves.  Their ever-expanding selection of business and casual shirts are work well with your favorite jeans or your best suit.  Hugh & Crye also carries a growing collection of small-batch neckties, pockets squares and other natty accessories.

 

Austen Heller Loafers

Whalers   Beauty Edited grande 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListAusten Heller loafers bridge the gap between dressy and casual dress shoes. They are decidedly dressy but in a relaxed, deconstructed way; part American boat shoe, part European driving moccasin.

Started by a guy who simply could not find the kind of shoes he wanted, Austen Heller combines old world craftsmanship with distinctive style.  The shoes are handmade in Europe using premium leathers, with a simple design that focus on style, comfort, and quality.  And, with a price tag of $195, picking up some practical footwear flair won’t knock you off your feet.

 

Timex Ironman Run Trainer GPS

Timex Ironman Run Trainer  962x1024 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListOur editor-in-chief has been working pretty hard for the past couple of months to drop about 30 pounds from around his middle, and running has played a big part in the effort.  For the past several weeks, the new Timex Ironman Run Trainer GPS ($275) has been a regular companion and helped make all that running count for something.

Ironman is the de facto king of training watches, and with reason.  They are built like tanks, do what they are built to do, and – during down time – speak to one’s athletic predisposition.

The new GPS model has moved the brand in an upscale, more technically polished direction.  It can track your workout progress, monitor your heart rate, and split laps.  But it can also dress up a casual look with sporty flair that says, “yes, in fact I really do work out.”

 

RHA MA-350 Earphones

RHA Earbuds 1024x682 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListRHA is a small British company that makes some great headphones and ear buds.  In fact, Apple thinks enough of them to carry the brand in its stores.  We had a chance to check out the MA-350 ear buds ($39.95), and are pretty impressed.

The aluminum bodies are light and sturdy and the signature fabric-wrapped cords reduce annoying tangles.  These are just earphones, so there is no microphone or volume control, but we don’t care.  The sound is what matters, they sound great.  They also make excellent in-ear running companions – our preferred test method.  Pick up a pair for yourself.

 

Mack Weldon Underwear & Tees

Mack Weldon Tee 1024x845 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListWe were recently introduced to Mack Weldon, a new men’s collection ($19.50 to $32) that features tee shirts, undershirts, underwear and socks; fundamental pieces to create the base for any outfit.

This is an undergarment brand that is solely devoted to producing top-notch products that perfectly combine luxury and performance features to create a one-of-a-kind item. And we wholeheartedly agree. Their undershirts are best we’ve ever tested and the tee shirts fit, well, perfectly.

 

Kiel James Patrick Lanyard Hitch Bracelet

KJP Lanyard Hitch Oliver Hazard 2012 OTC Holiday Wish ListOur friend Kiel James Patrick continues to build on his brand’s preppy, wind-tossed reputation.  And while it may seem his days are spent lounging around scenic photo ops and strolling along deserted beaches, bear in mind that he built KJP with his (and girlfriend Sarah Vicker’s) hands.

The brand has been a success both because of his perpetually photogenic visage and the obsessive amount of energy that goes into creating his made by hand, made-in-Rhode Island accessories.

Case in point is the new Lanyard Hitch collection ($40).  Available in classic solids and preppy patterns, they are simple, manly, and easy to wear; even if you’re not at the beach.

And as we were recently shown by an industrious four year-old, these bracelets can also be used to hang a Christmas stocking off of a ladder, decorate a newel post, and tie together some favorite toys.

 

How to Tie a Sette Necktie

The dashing gentleman in this wonderful little video from Sette Neckwear, is the owner of the Como, Italy, mill that produces the silk for Sette’s outstanding handmade ties.

Watch and learn.  And, if you are able, invest in a Sette or two.  They are some of the finest ties you can buy – and worth every penny.

 

How to Dress Well

MrModenese1134Web via Sartorialist How to Dress Well

A reader recently posed to us an interesting question that gets at the heart of dressing well: does it matter what you wear when no one is looking?

This gentleman has the benefit of often working from home, and when not there, is frequently on the road. When working from his home office, our friend’s work wardrobe barely moves beyond college tee shirts and old shorts, or on a chilly day, jeans. On the road he has a few suits that he says do little for him on the style front. And while he does want to project a polished image, his main complaint is that he does not know how to come across as a professional without a suit.

He sees donning a suit as an obligation based on his audience for the day, but does not know how to “modulate” his work wardrobe to allow for some other options that let him express some personal creativity and style. For starters, a suit is by no means the only “dress up” thing in a man’s wardrobe.

Too often, men see dressing well as a chore, something to avoid, or something against which to fight.

For some it’s a latent fear of dandyism. Other times, it is a misguided sense of self-righteousness; a feeling that you’re fighting conformity, not buying into the “suit” thing – you know, being more real.

That philosophy usually ascribes that one simply conform to a different model of “conformity.” Dressing like a perpetual college student in order to make a statement is very much its own model of conformity.  As the fellow in the picture above clearly demonstrates, flair, panache, and confidence know no age.  His comfortable dapper outfit would look equally at home on a man half his age.  Alas, too many men half his age would not have the confidence to step out so well attired.

Dressing for Yourself & Others
There is a world of style and personality between flip flops and a three piece suit. Rolling out of bed and shuffling down the hall to check the email is not the point here. However, when you step out of the house or log onto a video conference, there is a certain social contract into which we enter. What you have on now matters. Once you start interacting with other people in you ought to show them the same level social and sartorial respect you yourself would expect in return. You should make an effort to dress well because you want to.

The first rule in dressing well is that you should always be comfortable and true to yourself. The second rule is the equally important fact that whether you like it or not, people judge you by how you dress, how you carry yourself and treat others, your social skills, how you speak, etc. Research has repeatedly shown that on average, it takes about eight seconds for an individual to decide what kind of person you are and it can take years to alter that initial perception. How you react to this universal truth is your choice.  This means creating appropriate wardrobes that reflect your sense of self, but which are appropriate for the situation in which you find yourself.

Clothing is one our most obvious and influential social markers. How you choose to dress directly impacts what people think about you and, often what you think about yourself. Radical changes are not always necessary; getting new jeans in a darker wash that fit well or buying some new dress shirts that work with or without a tie take make a huge difference in how the world sees you.

In our reader’s case, we suggested updating some of his separates as it turns out he does not have to wear only a suit when he travels for business. A new blue blazer and a couple of sport coats, new shirts that actually fit, and new flat front dress pants significantly updated his professional appearance. Having everything properly fitted and tailored cost a bit up front, but he told us afterwards that how he sees himself has changed dramatically.

Fit & Quality
If you choose or are obligated to wear a suit every day than take the time to learn what makes a great suit great. Pay for quality, fit, and construction.  It’s often more than you might prefer, but these things are the sartorial equivalent of a capital investment. And never forget that fit is what matters the most; for suit coats, sport coats, or blazers, this means shoulders. A properly fitted shoulder is the foundation of a jacket that properly fits its wearer. After that, the overall proportions will vary by individual body type and preference. Learn what you like: fitted and trim or loose and flowing, shorter or longer jacket skirts, one or two vents, two or three buttons (or double-breasted). Do you prefer a more European armhole that sits tighter to the shoulder or something less fitted?  Natural or structured shoulders?

The same type of rule holds true for trousers. If the fit is wrong, nothing else really matters. Do you prefer pleats or flat fronted trousers, full break or no break on the pant legs, what kind of rise? Trousers should always be comfortable whether sitting, standing, or moving.

Your dress shirts should flatter your physique, not envelope it with yards of fabric – or strain at the buttons. The neck should allow for two fingers to comfortably slip inside the collar when buttoned, shoulder seams should sit on your shoulders as would your jacket’s, and sleeves should generally end at or just below your wrist bone.  Take into account how much shirt cuff you want to show under your like your jacket’s sleeve – some should be visible.

Take time to try different fits and styles of clothing that flatter and are comfortable to and on you. If you wear business casual all the time, make the effort to expand your wardrobe. Instead of polos and khakis five days a week, add in some nice tailored pants and dressier casual shirts. Pick up a variety of sport coats and have them properly tailored. Making even these simple changes help to create a more flexible and professional wardrobe.

If, like our reader, you work from home and have client or co-worker meetings less often, keep abreast of general style trends. Update your wardrobe selectively and make sure to have someone else give you an honest assessment about color, fit, and style.

Pay attention to how you look when others aren’t around so that when they are, you always present your best face.