Master Craftsmen | Off the Cuff

Behind the Scenes at Barbour

On August 9, 2012, By OTC

A Barbour jacket is perhaps one of the most iconic garments around today. Even at a distance, they are immediately recognizable. The Barbour brand itself is synonymous with country living, horses, rolling estates, a stiff drink and, more than anything else, heritage.

Your classic Beaufort or Bedale coat is meant to be with you for life. The brand has expanded to offer contemporary takes on timeless styles and rugged design. However, one thing that will never change is the hand-made durability and longevity built into each one of their products.

Barbour’s design DNA is why pretty much anyone who loves classic style cherishes this brand, be it an urban hipster or old-school preppy.

If you don’t have a Barbour, save up for one. If you already do, keep beating it to heck; these jackets are meant to be lived in. And, as this video shows, when in need of repair or re-waxing, you can ship your beloved jacket back to the company where a single craftsperson will do what’s needed to get it back into shape and safely home – for another generation to appreciate.

Credit due: Thanks to our friend Fred Castleberry over at Unabashedly Prep for first flagging this wonderful video.

A Brand Called “You” (Part 2)

On July 13, 2012, By OTC

In part one of this essay, we discussed some of the changes that have begun to redefine the concept of brand loyalty. While consumers may still be loyal to a given brand, the way in which they interact with that brand is much more fragmented, delineated, and nuanced

It’s still an ongoing shift of course, but the edges of the new pathway are becoming clearer. In plain terms, what is changing, and by extension changing how companies market their wares, is that many customers no longer look to a single brand or “lifestyle” to define who they are.

For example, not long ago, a person looking to express their patrician aspirations might say, “I choose to identify with Ralph Lauren.” Today, that same customer is more likely to state, “I like Ralph Lauren polo shirts, but I like Lumina oxfords, and Freeman Sporting Club suits. I prefer Raleigh Denim jeans and American Giant tees.” The ability of a single brand to define a customer’s life is fading. Smaller, specialized brands that produce high-quality products are allowing customers to themselves create their own “lifestyle branding.”

Driving this reversal in influence is of course, social media. Never before have people been able to access so much information about trends, products, reviews, and prices. In mere minutes, I can find out who makes the best messenger bag or thick-soled cordovan wingtips, read a detailed review on a blog, and even get on the phone with the guys who actually makes those shoes.

I can post a picture of my new shoes on Pinterest or Fancy, tweet the makers’ link to my Twitter followers, review my new shoes on Facebook, and – if I have time – make a quick “box-opening” video for You Tube (unfortunately, that’s not me with the new Rolex!).

That is serious consumer power.

Combined with an economy that continues to stagnate on many fronts and you have a retail landscape that requires a company to explain in clear terms why, exactly, it should matter to a customer. With purchases and products being scrutinized by customers like never before, labels that grew at a global scale and licensed out all their branded accessories face buyers tired of sub-par quality for the sake of a name. It’s fair to say that smaller brands with tight controls on design, production and quality – and that actually make things people want to buy – will gain in the evolving loyalty game.

Almost by default, luxury – or at least quality – will again mean exclusivity.

All bout the guys
At the same time, menswear in particular is faced with an exciting trend. All those men who for generations did not care much about this season’s Pantone color or whether summer scarves are “in” are not only becoming active in their fashion choices, they are actually becoming market movers.

Across the spectrum of retail, men are taking a more active role in outfitting their own wardrobes, carefully selecting accessories, and fussing over things like quality and provenance. Retailers have taken notice and many have broadened and deepened their menswear selections. The smart ones fixate on quality and heritage, to use an overwrought term. More so than women, men want products with a story or background.

The reasons are myriad, but growing numbers of guys have shaken off the stale myth that they should not care about style, fashion, luxury and looking good. When OTC launched way back in 2006, there were at best a handful of blogs dedicated to menswear. Today, men are looking for help and advice on all matters sartorial. They actively seek out information and feedback about products, brands, and trends that interest them.

More to the point, they are also looking for validation and community about the brands that they like. The brand itself is not enough; they want to be part of a sartorial tribe. To be sure, there is also a strong desire to stand alone and be unique. We all want the one thing that sets us apart from the herd – but not too far. We want to stand out just enough to let the other guys know we are our own person, but not be a jerk about it.

Calling the branding shots
As the concept of what exactly a brand means and who decides if it’s worth something becomes more decentralized, defining who you are is becoming more personal and individual. And with men educating themselves about style, fashion, etiquette and luxury, brands that heretofore could consider themselves one-stop-shops will have to change their approach.

J. Crew is a good example of a company the early on identified the trend of men taking their image, and shopping, into their own hands. In addition to its SoHo Liquor Store men’s-only shop, the company intently focuses on its male customers through dedicated catalogs, additional menswear focused retail outlets, and it’s much-copied, “in good company” collaborations.

This approach allows the overall brand to remain whole but provide customers with a sense of individuality and more importantly, the feeling that these specialized products and shopping experiences meet a higher standard.

It all boils down to a growing customer base that simply does not need to be told who they are, what they really want, or what kind of life they should lead. They may read lots of fashion and style magazines and check out yours truly on the Web, but they are the ones who decide what their “look” is. Brands need to meet their approval.

This may explain why many of the coolest brands are also niche ones. And for these folks success does not necessarily translate into huge market share or big profits. Those things matter of course, it is about business at the end of the day. But it is also, more often than not, about passion, as with Will Lisak of ETWAS Bags.

These “bespoke” brands specialize in a particular slice of life, perspective, product, or philosophy. They tend to be brands founded by someone in love with a certain idea or type of product, like innovative bag maker J. Panther Luggage Co. or upstart shirting company Hugh & Crye. They see things a little differently and understand that their genuine individuality and dedication to quality and service are the keys to success in this new retail landscape.

They know this because they are also consumers. And more often, today’s menswear customers already know who they are or want to be; they don’t need instructions.

Put another way: the brand needs to fit who I am, not the other way around.

The Messenger Bag Grows Up

On June 11, 2012, By OTC

Here at OTC, we like a good bag. Men have come to appreciate the role of a good bag in their lives and for many the seminal bag is the universally useful messenger bag. Messenger bags are much hipper than a backpack and have the implied ruggedness of utilitarian cool.

There is some debate about its true origins, but the nod often goes to San Francisco-based Timbuk2 as the creator of the modern messenger bag design. We even worked with Timbuk2 to create a signature OTC messenger last year. And while the sturdy, go-anywhere, hold anything nature of the traditional messenger is what makes it so attractive, it is inherently a very casual bag.

When looking to upgrade the messenger bag you need go no further than the Shrunken Leather Messenger from Frank Clegg Leatherworks. This is messenger bag for grown up guys, and a bag that will stay with you for life.

The first thing you notice is the leather. It is unlike anything you have seen before and will likely see anywhere else. Dense and weighty, it is also incredibly supple and soft. The process by which the leather is tanned and shrunk beyond typical limits yields a unique, highly textured surface full of character. We opted for chocolate paired with a cognac vegetable tanned trim, as shown on the site. But, as with any Frank Clegg bag, you can opt for nearly any combination available.

The bag itself is a classic messenger form: cross-body shoulder strap, flap-over body, and minimal external pockets. There is a single external rear open pocket and the bag is secured by two buckle straps. The attached shoulder strap is a beautiful example of craftsmanship all by itself and is adjustable.

Lined in a water-resistant Sunbrella fabric, the bag’s main compartment is big enough to carry a laptop and a couple of books. It also has a good-sized zippered pocket to contain keys or change and a large divided leather pocket for keeping your smart phone and pens or business cards safely stowed.

I have lost count of how many compliments this bag has received from both men and women. It has aged beautifully and is without question my go-to bag for when I need something sharp but casual. It works with shorts and a tee shirt when running errands and business casual dress when heading to the office.

While brands like Coach have only recently come back into the men’s bag market, Frank Clegg never left. As one of the finest designers in the leather goods business, he knows what makes a good bag that will last for decades. And, since he is also the guy actually making the bag, special tweaks and customizations are not typically a problem.

Though less formal than his business cases, Clegg’s exceptional craftsmanship is evident in every corner of this bag. Want to impress your dad this Father’s Day? This will do the trick – and then some.

More images…

Sette Neckwear’s DC Trunk Show: April 21, 2012

On April 20, 2012, By OTC

Every now and then OTC is contacted about a brand that is so well executed it effectively redefines its product’s category. Sette, maker of incomparable seven-fold neckties, is such a brand. You are invited to visit with Sette’s founder and peruse their beautiful neckties tomorrow, Saturday, April 21. Read on for the event’s particulars.

Founded by former White House press officer Peter Watkins, the idea for Sette (the number seven in Italian) came when he had the chance to spend some time with the Italian prime minister’s personal tie maker. Seeing the opportunity to create equally elegant neckwear for American dignitaries, luminaries, social and media leaders, and business executives, Watkins outlined his somewhat audacious plan and went looking for a craftsman capable of bringing it to life. Enter designer Robert Jensen.

Bob Jensen has been at the forefront of high-end neckwear for more than 30 years. Apprenticed to legendary American neckwear icon Robert Talbott in 1979, he quickly became a leading force behind Robert Talbott’s global presence and the designs of its iconic neckties.

By the mid-1980s, Jensen was lead designer at Robert Talbott and was the first to bring back to the fashion world the traditional method of creating a seven-fold necktie. A complex and exacting task, only a very few artisans have perfected the skill, and even fewer the level of Bob Jensen.

Now Sette’s lead designer, Jensen has elevated the seven-fold necktie to yet another level, one that makes it an heirloom; something to be cherished and passed down father to son. Crafted in limited editions, each tie is designed, cut, folded, stitched, and finished by hand to exacting standards. Every element of the design is thought through – even to the point of printing the Sette label into the tie’s design. The tie’s keeper is the only separate element that breaks the continuous flow silk. Even the bar tacks are shaped into a number “7″.

Even the tie’s packaging is carefully considered. Hand-folded and hand-placed into a beautiful presentation box, your Sette tie is less a purchase than it is an investment in the art of dressing well for life.

We encourage you to see for yourself the design, quality, and elegance which are the hallmarks of Sette neckties. Tomorrow – Saturday, April 21, 2012, from 12:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m., the Sette trunk show will ensconce itself at the legendary Washington, D.C., Mayflower Hotel, in the Delaware Board Room.

Email concierge (at) setteneckwear (dot) com, or tweet Sette at @SetteNeckwear and they will set you up.

OTC x Frank Clegg: Bespoke Leather Goods

On March 28, 2012, By OTC

When we first sat down with master leather craftsman Frank Clegg to discuss the idea of creating a leather goods collection, it was an idea not fully formed. Our thought was to start with some basics, but to interpret them in a more luxurious way while still keeping practicality and function front and center.

After tossing around some options, we settled on an iPad case; one that could easily fit into a briefcase or be carried alone, have a classic design, and be right at home in the boardroom. What we didn’t want was something flashy and overdone, just a little elegance to balance out its utilitarian nature. Frank suggested we modify his iPad case using a different leather and a touch of alligator for the slip-in tab.

He also suggested we pair the OTC iPad case with a matching alligator iPhone sleeve. iPads and iPhones are common tools that require some degree of protection, and for those who prefer to keep their technology open and un-encased, the options are at times uninspired. The idea was to create a practical ensemble that would make sense for every day use.

So, how did they turn out? Beautifully.

There is a masculine, classic quality to both OTC x Frank Clegg pieces that speaks of a refined elegance made practical. These are simple designs, which are often the most difficult to execute due to the obviousness of any defect.

The iPad case’s wax-infused harness belting leather is dense and sturdy, but also soft and incredibly pliable. The unique alligator tab adds just the right amount of show but is well-balanced by the case’s body. Flashy this is not. The stitching, construction, and attention to detail are all exacting.

The iPhone sleeve is an unexpected favorite. The exterior is constructed entirely of book matched alligator and lined in the same wax-infused harness belting leather, but here almost paper thin. The phone easily slips in and out yet remains snugly in place when inside. It’s inherent elegance is in fact a foil to the iPad case’s reserve.

With the iPhone sleeve we have a true luxury item; one that could, as alligator often does, scream, “notice me!” Instead, because of its size and simplicity, it’s more of a discreet, “yes, I’m handmade.” As you might suspect, we here at OTC are not ones to typically anthropomorphize things They are simply that good.

Frank did a superb job and created luxurious accessories that have been used every day since the box arrived from Fall River, Ma. They regularly garner stares and comments, compliments and questions – mostly, “where did you get those?”

A true artisan, Frank Clegg is not new to this business and you can read more about him and his background in an earlier OTC article.

His expansive skill set and perpetual design aesthetic means that he can customize almost any of his existing designs and create whole-cloth new collections with little difficulty. It is a natural passion. Prefer green signature tumbled leather over chestnut belting harness? No problem. Need a shoulder strap with a 13 inch drop instead of 15 inch? They can do that.

Want a set just like OTC’s? Just give him a call – and more than likely, he’ll be the one to answer the phone. But be quick, this is a very limited edition run.

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