OTC hit the internet back in 2005.  Back then, there were very few men’s fashion blogs out there.  And there were even fewer sites dedicated to the preppy/Ivy League/East Coast style so familiar to me.

Over the intervening years, the appeal of preppy style and East Coast lifestyle – at least as seen through the eyes of Lisa Birnbach – gained wider appeal and the proliferation of online experts and opinion-makers ensued.  Back in the 1980s, when The Preppy Handbook first gave birth to a new, aspirational preppy phenomenon, the style was bombastic and over the top, colorful and caricatured.   Today, it’s serious business.  And I mean that both figuratively and literally.

Companies from J. Crew to Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers to J. Press are all rediscovering their uber-preppiness.  New smaller brands that fancy themselves cultural artisans and holders of the “true” preppy standard are popping up by the day.  Of all these modern labels only Brooks Brothers, J. Press and L.L. Bean can really lay claim to a physical connection to the genuine preppy aesthetic.  At the same time, many fashion bloggers and armchair fashion historians extol the virtues of being “authentic” focusing on “heritage” brands.

I’ve seen some of this exuberant tut-tutting in the reviews of Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style and find it a little perplexing.  Some are critical of the book’s lack of historical gravitas and its apparent concession to modern (and apparently blasphemous) interpretations of preppy style.  Too much Ralph Lauren – that’s not authentic prep!  Does that make Polo/Ralph Lauren, founded twilight years of original Preppy, any less preppy?  Is it less authentic?  Of course not, Polo is the bedrock of modern preppy style.

All of this came quickly to mind as I unpacked the book, sent to me through the kindness of its authors, and started to leaf through the pages.  I, and several other bloggers mentioned or quoted in the book have been aware of its development since last year.  When I was contacted for permission to use a quote from my Roots of American Preppy article – for the introduction no less – I was intrigued.  I liked the idea  behind the book and the authors’ approach to creating a modern understanding of the style.

Turns out I also like the book.  In fact, I think it’s a great resource for anyone looking to better understand and adopt preppy style.  Preppy’s authors, very aware of bloggers’ influence and impact on modern preppy style, also reached out to some of the leading online influencers and mined our archives and writings.  That perspective adds to the larger picture of preppy style today.

I don’t know if some people were expecting the Ivy League equivalent of Alan Flusser’s Dressing The Man -  a book so detailed, complete and authoritative as to garner only criticisms about its obsessive detail.  This book is more of an elegant and somewhat contextual style guide that shows you how to dress and accessorize in the preppy fashion.  It’s not an exhaustive tome dedicated to the intricate nuances of preppy culture and history, pedigree and monogramming rules.  Rather, it is a visual reference for achieving the preppy aesthetic.

Preppy runs the gamut of Ivy League influences and trends, styles, luminaries and brands.  It also goes somewhere most books on this subject do not – to modern times.  Photos from Fred Castleberry are mixed with references to the gritty cool urbanity of Street Etiquette.com.  Modern influences have taken the preppy look in new directions, J.Crew being the standard bearer of the “New Prep.”  In fact, even though J.Crew strives to break its generic “preppy” label, no other brand has so forcefully defined what kids today understand to be preppy.

What makes the preppy style of today so resilient and ubiquitous is that it’s not static – it’s not the old 1980s caricature.  Through style blogs and social media, consumers have decided what they like and how they want to blend looks and even eras.  Creating personal signature looks by blending new and old brands, mass market and small run specialty pieces, old school preppy and new school ironic keeps things fresh.

And that’s the way is should be.  “Real” American preppy has always been about practically, function and quality.  Together, those elements yielded the timeless and classic looks we so covet today.  From bags to dogs, footwear to navy blazers, preppies created a distinctive style by finding what worked, sticking with it and evolving to include new elements that matched their style.  Same thing with this book.

Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style takes vintage and modern preppy, blends them up and gives us the recipe for achieving a look, a style and, sort of, a life style.  It’s a lovely book and a great addition to a collection or coffee table.

Perhaps the only serious examination of classic menswear and men’s style on the news stand today, The Rake is a rich and intellectual celebration of what its publisher refers to as the “renaissance of gentlemanly sophistication and style.”

With that said, the hefty U.S. subscription fee may very well be worth the outlay.

We are also excited to point out that the article was assembled by two other OTC friends.  Christian Chensvold, founder of Ivy Style and a contributing editor at The Rake, penned the piece.  Fred Castleberry, founder of Unabashedly Prep, took the outstanding photographs.  Both of their sites are knowledge-filled resources for those seeking advice, inspiration and, certainly in Ivy Style’s case, the stories behind East Coast / Ivy League style.

Alan himself is a wonderful example of how classic style, or as he puts it “permanent fashion,” while timeless is not immutable.  The Custom Shop, Alan’s famous home base in Manhattan, has received a significant face lift and his English drape inspired house silhouette has similarly been refreshed a tad.

Does this mean Flusser is selling out and going for the trendy skinny look?  Not at all.  While the new Flusser drape suit is a touch slimmer and proportionally closer to the body, its inherent comfort, balance, flow and stylistic longevity are very much intact.  Anyone who knows Alan knows that he is far from a stuffed shirt.  His style and personality are equally colorful and expansive.

No slouch on the technical end of things, his BeSpeak and SnapDress iPhone applications are building a growing and devoted audience.  BeSpeak 2.0 is expected to launch later this year with even more functionality.

The Alan Flusser brand may evolving, but he is not changing its core values one bit.

To that end, the custom shop’s new streamlined and rakish look evokes Alan’s love of the Art Deco period and his proclivity for personal detail and refined understatement.

To learn more about Alan Flusser, visit the Custom Shop’s website, which itself is getting an overdue refreshing.

To view view The Rake’s article in PDF format, please visit The Rake Compendium, Alan Flusser.

This is the fourth part of an extended profile of Brooks Brothers, the iconic and influential American clothing company.  Click here to read Part 3.

BRANCHING OUT

After 114 years, Brooks Brothers opened its first full-sized store outside New York City in 1932.  Located on Newbury Street in Boston, today still the retail heart of the city, the Boston Brooks Brothers store became a landmark in its own right.

Though seasonal outlets in The Hampton’s allowed Brooks to follow its customers while they summered away from the stifling summer heat of the city, these temporary shops closed up at the end of the season.

It wasn’t until 1939 that the first Brooks Brothers stores opened on America’s west coast, in Los Angeles and San Francisco.  Then, in 1946, Brooks was acquired by Washington, D.C.-based specialty store chain Garfinkel-Rhoads, Inc.   The new owners understood what made Brooks tick and wisely left the company to its own devices, rather than mess up a good thing.

1968 marked 150 years of business for Brooks Brothers and the company celebrated by introducing The ‘No. Three’ suit.  With slightly squarer shoulders, definite waist accentuation, subtle flair and a deeper center vent, the No. Three added a more fitted style to the Brooks Brothers’ line-up.

The 1970s marked the start of aggressive expansion for Brooks Brothers.  By the end of the decade, it had doubled to 26 stores.  In 1979, Brooks opened its first Japanese store in Tokyo.  Long fans of Brooks Brothers and Ivy League style, Japanese customers were then and remain now more traditional and demanding of quality than many American customers.

In 1981, Allied Stores Corporation bought Brooks and shifted the company’s business focus to one of profit.  Brooks Brothers became a commodity.  However, the experiment didn’t last very long and in 1988, the company was acquired by British retailer Marks and Spencer. M&S saw in Brooks Brothers an opportunity to leverage an American icon by updating the brand modernizing the product line.

For those who loved Brooks Brothers, this marked the lowest of the lows.  In its effort to modernize Brooks Brothers, M&S literally abandoned everything for which the company was known.  M&S, a giant of the British retail market, wholly miscalculated Brook’s brand appeal and value proposition and instead attempted to force-feed the company its economies of scale approach.

In a sincere but misguided effort to make the company more modern, M&S instead alienated both Brooks’ staff and its customers.

Suits and ties were out and sportswear was in.  The rapid development of bland, interchangeable mall stores quickly took precedence over a rich history of quality and customer service.  All of this led to a devaluation of Brooks Brothers’ brand equity.  Soon, poor quality control and pedestrian designs -the results of a model focused on cost control and product commoditization – began to validate and then perpetuate the lowered expectations.

Even at the storied 346 Madison Avenue, M&S attempted to stamp its “modern” corporate imprint and sweep away many of the trappings of Brook’s rich history.  Fixtures and furnishings from the main sales floor, many priceless and built specifically for the store, had to be secreted away to secure locations by loyal staff after the order came down ordering it all be thrown out; literally.

As marketing strategies and new product development began to chase the emerging dot.com generation, and move away from what made Brooks Brothers so unique, the company began to rapidly lose customers.

THE NEW BROOKS, REBUILDING A CLASSIC

In 2001, a momentous shift in ownership and brand philosophy took place.  Marks & Spencer, unable to reinvent Brooks Brothers and hemorrhaging cash, sold the company to Retail Brand Alliance, a privately held group owned by Italian billionaire Claudio del Vecchio.

The of son of Luxottica founder Leonardo del Vecchio, Claudio grew up idolizing Brooks Brothers and watched with dismay as the pillar of classic American style dissolved into a brand chasing after Gap’s customers.

After watching M&S struggle to unload their ailing investment, Del Vecchio snapped up Brooks for US $225 million, a relative bargain at the time.  He promptly made it clear that his goal was to return Brooks Brothers to the pinnacle of classic American menswear.  One of his first tasks was to delve into the Brooks’ archives for inspiration.

Drawing from that extensive corporate history, Brooks began to refashion itself into a true clothier, blending the best of its past with the creative foresight needed to remain relevant today and in the future.

He deftly fused Brook’s American heritage with European detailing like double vents and higher arm holes on jackets, narrower arm and leg openings and the introduction of luxury fabrics from Italian mills like Loro Piana.

After several years of rebuilding Brooks Brothers’ image and standards of quality, Del Vecchio made an unusual but telling announcement in September 2007.  Brooks would be pairing with avant-garde New York designer Thom Browne to collaborate on a new collection, dubbed Black Fleece.  Browne would be Brooks Brothers’ first “guest designer.”

The high-end men’s and women’s collection would draw on designs from the Brooks Brothers’ archives but be dramatically reinterpreted for a younger, highly sophisticated crowd.  The first of its kind for the company, the project was meant to both highlight the Brooks’ quality and tradition and at the same time pull it into a modern light.

One need only look at the burgeoning “heritage” design movement to appreciate Brooks’ prescient thinking.  Brands from L.L. Bean to Gant are now plumbing the depths of their design history for inspiration and instant vintage credibility.

Many long-time customers looked askance as the man behind the shrunken suit produced elegantly quirky takes on classics like the oxford shirt, grey flannel suit and even Roosevelt’s aforementioned classic Navy cape.

The collection drew mostly positive press, though there were significant rumblings from those who felt Browne’s penchant for cropped jackets and high water pants were more costume than clothing. There were also some initial glitches, including delivery problems and soft women’s sales, but overall results were strong enough to keep the relationship in place and extend it through Spring 2011.  Now well into that year, the successful arrangement shows no sign of going anywhere.

In fact, Black Fleece received so much critical and commercial success that a freestanding Black Fleece boutique was opened on New York’s Bleeker Street in the winter of 2008.  Two other solo outlets followed, in Tokyo and San Francisco.

Also in 2008, Brooks Brothers began an extensive renovation of its 346 Madison Avenue flagship store and closed the moderne glass and steel Fifth Avenue store.  Del Vecchio stated that the Fifth Avenue location focused too much on the women’s collection and sportswear.  It was another move to regain a focus on classic and elegant menswear.  Just recently completed, the renovation reflects the comfortable combination of Brooks’ classic heritage and modern stance.

Seeking to recapture the legitimacy of its historic claim of being a maker and merchant, in 2008 Brooks also purchased the 82 year-old Southwick clothing company.  Not only did Brooks Brothers secure dedicated domestic workshops, it preserved a linchpin of American tailoring.

On the day that Southwick relocated to its new purpose-built facility, Claudio Del Vecchio noted that, “Today we celebrate the heritage of the Southwick brand and look to it as a source of inspiration.  Here in Haverhill, we are reinventing the Southwick name in this beautiful new space designed to maximize both quality and efficiency.  Every corner of this building has been thoughtfully conceived and with investments in state-of-the-art equipment and this dedicated team; Southwick’s best days are not in its archives but still to come.”

That’s not just PR talk – that’s investing in your company, valuing in the people who craft your product and being smart and targeted about vertical integration.

To be continued in Part 5…

The backbone of any serious wardrobe, the blue blazer is probably one of the most versatile garments ever designed. Without a doubt, it is the one article of dress clothing all men should have hanging in the closet. the blue blazer is universally useful and chameleon-like when it comes to meeting your needs in a sartorial pinch.  From casual cocktails to formal boardroom, a well made, well fitting blazer will get the job done.

When they hear “blue blazer” most guys tend to think of the classic brass button type found in a Ralph Lauren advertisement. Of course that version is the most traditional, but by no means is it the only option. Blue blazers come in a range of fabrics and styles that can work with almost anyone’s style – from lightweight linens to beefy flannels.

As the king of odd jackets, a blue blazer can fill the gap when you need to dress somewhere between a suit and a sweater, regardless of the season.

Styles vary as much as materials. Some blazers have horn or resin buttons and they can come with single, double or no vents.  Single breasted jackets typically sport notched lapels while double-vented versions should have only those of the peaked variety.

With its nipped waist and dramatic massing of buttons, a double breasted blazer imparts formality. On the other hand, a single breasted sack jacket with no darting and patch pockets can give you a more casual “drinks at the club” New England look.

When it comes to shoulders, there are some cultural variations as well. American blazers often have a soft natural shoulder, while English tailors tend to prefer them padded and more structured. This is particularly true with double breasted jackets. American makers like Brooks Brothers are arbiters of the natural shoulder.

When shopping for a blue blazer, approach it as a major investment. This should be a jacket that can carry you for years to come and something that you are happy to reach for in the morning. A well constructed blazer made from good fabric will be as comfortable as your favorite sweatshirt and its classic styling will conquer the vagaries of many fashion cycles.  that said, you do not have to break the bank when it comes to finding one that’s right for you.

Brands like J. Crew have spent years perfecting their version of the blue blazer  and in the process have made it into a cool must have wardrobe asset.  Online custom clothier Indochino recently launched its take on the classic double breasted blue blazer.  For a mere $300 you can have a blazer made just for you.  While this interpretation, geared toward a slightly more adventurous gentleman actually cuts a balanced and fresh look.

The blue blazer works because of its inherent versatility and balance between formal and comfortable. It’s one of those rare garments that has both stood the test of time and evolved to meet the needs of each generation.

Brooks, as it is affectionately known,created what we today view as a distinctively American sense of style – classically designed but comfortable in execution; English in heritage yet breezy and fresh in its interpretation.  Brooks Brothers can also lay claim to establishing American “town” style, known also as the Wall Street look.

It’s well understood that Brooks Brothers’ impact on American style is significant and far reaching.  But to pinpoint the moment in time when it literally became the arbiter of American style, we need to go back to the first half of the last century.

THE REAL GATSBY

The Roaring ‘20s ushered in a period of enormous social change and by no means was Brooks immune.  The tumultuous and paradigm-shifting end of World War I released pent-up energy that led to wholesale innovations in music, culture, social morays, design and fashion.  And for the first time, a distinctive American sense of style began to take shape.

Brooks Brothers took note of this cultural shift and reevaluated its own views on what men were, and wanted, to be wearing.  As a result, the brand began to emerge as the standard bearer of American menswear.  Shedding much of its English sartorial heritage, which up until then had been a major influence for the firm’s house style; the Brooks began to focus on the uniquely American fashion sensibilities it had helped to develop.

Though previously worn for sporting purposes (hard to even imagine today), the soft collared button-down shirt was resurgent in the ‘20s, now paired with more formal dress.  One of the first celebrities to regularly sport this subversively stylish garment was no less than legendary Jazz Age writer F. Scott Fitzgerald.

Already a devotee of the brand, Fitzgerald was in fact wearing his Brooks Brothers dress uniform when he met Zelda, his future wife, at a military dance.  “He smelled like new goods,” she later recalled.  One only needs to read the heady, detailed and lovingly crafted descriptions of the character’s wardrobes in The Great Gatsby to grasp Brook’s influence on American style and lifestyle.

The 1920s also saw the introduction of what would become a cornerstone of the Brooks Brothers brand: the repp tie.  Its distinctive striped pattern is attributed to British regimental and club ties.  Brooks Americanized the repp tie by reversing the direction of the stripes.  Just as stylish today as it was then, any well-dressed gent worth his salt has more than a few in his wardrobe.

Though exaggerated experimentation marked the trendiest of wardrobes during this heady time, be it voluminous Oxford bags or the strangely elongated suiting silhouettes haunting jazz clubs, such as the the Zoot Suit, Brooks stood firm.  While drawing on its extensive archives for inspiration and innovation, it nonetheless refused to chase the fashions of the moment.

Winthrop Brooks, president of Brooks Brothers in the 1930s and the last of the Brooks family to lead the company, famously stated, “We’re not in the fashion business.  We’re in the clothing business.”  This mantra has guided the company through a sea of style, social and corporate changes and, for the most part, continues to do so today.  Even with today’s more polished and highly produced “heritage” themed advertising campaigns, the focus of Brooks Brothers ultimately rests on the clothes.

WELL DRESSED LUMINARIES

Whether residing in the fashion or clothing business, Brooks Brothers has long played a central role in American history, dressing countless political, social and cultural leaders.  Its reputation as a reliable and classic American brand, always appropriate for life’s more major moments, has propelled Brooks Brothers to global status.

Abraham Lincoln famously wore a Brooks Brothers frock coat when he was assassinated by John Wilkes Booth.   In fact, it was the same coat crafted especially for his second inauguration only five weeks previously.  Hand embroidered into the coat’s lining was a design featuring an eagle, representing the United States, and the inscription, “One Country, One Destiny.”

Numerous other U.S. presidents have been loyal patrons of Brooks Brothers.  Ulysses S. Grant and Teddy Roosevelt both ordered their dress military uniforms from Brooks.  When he met with Winston Churchill and Joseph Stalin at Yalta, Franklin D. Roosevelt was wearing his famous Brooks Brothers great cape.

You are still able to order that same cape, now available from Brooks’ stylized Black Fleece collection.  It’s expensive and highly impractical which makes is both an odd indulgence and instant conversation starter at the bar.

The rich, powerful and eternally stylish Gianni Agnelli famously had the habit of wearing his wristwatch over the cuff of his off-the-peg Brooks Brothers oxfords.  In fact, this distinctive affection has since come the byword for those seeking to display an unstudied air of sprezzatura.

John F. Kennedy single-handedly defined his generation’s look when he wore a Brooks Brothers two-button suit at his inauguration.  The slim cut and slim-lapelled two-button “Fitzgerald” suit, part of Brooks’ current lineup, pays homage to that Kennedy-era classic.

Two-button suits from Brooks, first introduced in 1961, were also favored by Gerald Ford and George H. W. Bush (that’s George senior).  However, back when he was running for president in 1980, Bush was giving a speech at his alma mater, Yale University, and being heckled by some students. One yelled out that Bush was just another out of touch “Brooks Brothers Republican.” The president, apparently offended by that particular remark, promptly opened his suit coat to reveal its J. Press label (Press being a veritable Yale institution and de facto clothier to generations of Ivy Leaguers).

More recently, at his inauguration, President Barack Obama warded off the brutal January chill with a black cashmere topcoat and burgundy scarf from Brooks Brothers.  Vice President Joe Biden is known to occasionally shut down traffic on DC’s Connecticut Avenue when he needs to swing by the store for a new tie or two.

Of course, Brooks Brothers’ most famous former employee would be onetime tie salesman Ralph Lauren.  Mr. Lauren went on to found Polo/Ralph Lauren, one of the most successful and recognized clothing brands in history.

A little known fact: Brooks Brothers actually granted Lauren the right to use the “Polo” trademark, as Brooks had retained its rights to the “original polo button-down collar” shirt.  To be continued in Part 4…

While more inspiration than practical, this style embodies classic Ivy League charm and blends well with the current brainy/East Coast preppy trend.

Having so dispensed with the hypothetical, I felt suitably up to the challenge when one of my closest friends, a high school teacher, asked me to write a column on how he could upgrade his professorial wardrobe.  The real deal, as it were.

His everyday wardrobe is fairly casual; khakis, jeans, polo shirts and sweaters are staples. Though he’s never been a suit and tie kind of guy, Bob (not his real name of course) now wants to dress in a more professional manner. He runs a major department at his school, which also means a fair amount of public exposure, and wants a wardrobe to reflect this level of responsibility.

He wants to project authority and professionalism without looking overdone, and in this case a daily coat and tie would be overdone. He’s not a banker, he’s a teacher; but does not mean he isn’t a professional. Bob is very good at what he does and wants his appearance to project that ability and experience.

What is needed here is an in-between look; professional but not stuffy, relaxed but still grown up. One of the quickest ways to do this is by focusing on fit and tailoring. You don’t have to give up your personal style to pull on a more polished look because you’re not changing who you are. But you do need to pay attention to how you translate your personal tastes into a more refined style.

In Bob’s case, as with many guys stuck in a dressing-for-college-class mindset, that means making a few key changes. Often, the simplest things make the biggest impact. Ditch shapeless worn out khakis in favor of tailored pants and swap baggy, faded jeans for fitted dark washed ones instead. Rather than rely on sweatshirts, try pima cotton crew neck or v-neck sweaters. It’s all about reinterpreting your outdated college-era wardrobe for the grown up you.

For many men, navigating the waters of business wardrobes without the benefit of a business suit can be a little scary. Suits are easy and authoritative. But for someone in Bob’s situation, a suit makes no sense.

In his case, odd jackets and blazers are the best solution. An odd jacket, be it corduroy, tweed, flannel or cotton, will provide the formality and authority of a suit coat but do in a comfortable and relaxed fashion.

Odd jackets can also be paired with almost any kind of outfit and give it a polished, finished look. And these days a jacket does not automatically necessitate a tie. I love ties, I personally think they are a wonderful way to express personality.  But achieving a complete outfit sans tie is easily done with this kind of dressing. Layer a fine gauge sweater over a patterned shirt, or added a pocket square.  These approaches can provide needed texture, color and detail.

Paying attention to fit and detail can lead to innovative discoveries.

Bonobos, for example, makes truly innovative khakis.  Not your plain old wardrobe staple, Bonobos pants are contoured and cut to actually fit a body and fit it well.  They have legitimately changed the playing field when it comes to casual pants.  With a uniquely shaped waist line that wraps around your midsection in a way that eliminates so-called “diaper butt,” where the seat of your khakis bunches up, creating an unflattering silhouette.

A simple strait leg and lightly updated classic designs help Bonobos become the best option for a casually professional pant.  The brand is also moving into jackets, shirts and partnering with other equally innovative brands.

Yes, it does mean investing in a new type of wardrobe, and some of that investing can be pricey – especially if Bob expands his shopping horizons and comes to appreciate the outstanding fit and quality of, say, a Brioni sport coat.

Frankly though, that is not the ultimate goal. You do not need to idealize famous clothing brands in an effort to dress well and project a stylish, confident – and confidence inspiring, for that matter – look.

The real point is that Bob will now be buying clothes that can last for life and can be added to over time. He is creating a new kind of wardrobe that can grow and evolve as he and his career grow and evolve. The fact that he wants to do all this is the most important thing of all. We are judged by how we look and how we carry ourselves. These days, now more so than ever, you are in charge of your career and you are your best marketing consultant.

Continued from Part I…

After the death of Henry Sands Brooks in 1833, control of the still small but now established company was passed to his eldest son, Henry, Jr.  In 1850, Henry’s three sons inherited the family business and renamed it “Brooks Brothers.”

As the company grew, so did the buildings which housed it.  After several intermediate moves, Brooks Brothers relocated to Broadway and 22nd Street, where it enjoyed 30 years of prosperity.

However, by 1915 a new larger home was needed, so that summer Brooks moved to the now legendary 346 Madison Avenue, at 44th Street.  Unlike its first home, the new 10-story building, built specifically to house Brooks Brothers, had the good fortune to be located in the heart of New York’s expanding social, cultural and high-end retail hub.  As modern day midtown Manhattan evolved and grew, Brooks Brothers did as well, dressing generations for lawyer, financiers, bankers and corporate titans.

SHEEP ON A STRING: DEFINING THE BRAND

The iconic Golden Fleece symbol was adopted as the company’s logo sometime in the mid-1850s. A sheep suspended in a ribbon had long been a symbol of British woolen merchants and also was the symbol of the Knights of the Golden Fleece, founded by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy.  In a clever blending of two major influences that helped drive the company to success, the logo was chosen to represent both Brooks Brothers’ European sartorial heritage and its commitment to quality.  In its early incarnation, Brooks traded in a distinctly British style of clothing.  The reasoning behind this approach was fairly simple – that was the style of clothing that customers demanded and with which they identified taste, influence and sartorial propriety.

As the company grew into its own and began to develop a distinctively American sense of fashion – meaning a less fitted and formal cut, looser fabrics, natural shoulders and undarted jackets – the house style we now identify with Brooks Brothers emerged.  The Golden Fleece logo effectively captured both the historic British nature of the brand’s early history and its authentic American roots.

The original and distinctive oval label bearing the Golden Fleece, abandoned during the dark days of the Marks & Spencer era, was reconstituted under the firm’s current owner and remains one of the most recognized in the world of fashion.

Though it had an active custom department throughout its early history, Brooks Brothers’ best known legacy is its development of the ready-to-wear clothing retail model.  The availability of such high quality ready-made clothes literally changed how and why men dressed.

No longer tied to tailors and the expensive and lengthy process of fittings, more men were able to properly dress for business and social situations.  And the ability to purchase an almost entirely ready-made high-quality wardrobe was of enormous benefit to Brooks’ customers boarding the ships down on the East River and bound for distant ports.

It also allowed men who otherwise could never afford a professional suit of clothes to dress well, blurring the long established demarcations of class.  In a very real way, the advent of ready-to-wear clothing was a cultural shift that changed how men identified and presented themselves.

The company pioneered much of what we now consider to be classic conservative, American dress.  In 1870, Brooks was the first to sell seersucker suits in the U.S.

In 1895, the company introduced the ‘Number One’ sack suit, regarded as the first genuinely American suit.  It offered a single-breasted jacket, soft natural shoulder and full, plain front pants.  Most importantly, the suit was designed to fit all body types while providing the wearer with classic styling. In fact, the Number One is such an iconic American classic that its direct descendant still made today.

Perhaps the most legendary and iconic Brooks garment was actually discovered on a trip to England in 1896 by John E. Brooks, Henry Sands Brooks’ grandson.

While taking in a polo match, he was captivated by the non-flapping shirt collars worn by the English polo players.  to prevent the players from being whipped in the face during full-speed gallops, the collars were held in place by small buttons.

Being an industrious New Yorker and a smart salesman, Henry Brooks created his own version and thus was born the legendary Brooks Brothers button-down polo collared shirt.  It was an instant hit with men who tired of the detachable stiff celluloid collar of the era, and became a best seller.

The social impact of a soft collared dress shirt should not be understated; it was a seismic shift in decorum where male dress was concerned.  Stiff Victorian sobriety was giving way to a new standard of comfortable peacockery.

So beloved is the Brooks button-down that in 1980 the shirt earned its own entry in the equally iconic Official Preppy Handbook (pages 140-141 for the curious).  The current wave of preppy/old school/vintage/Ivy League cognoscenti even have an equally prep acronym for the classic shirt.

The catchy shorthand of “OCBD” stands for oxford cloth button down and refers to any classically styled polo collar oxford.  But we all know that the real deal – the forerunner of all dress shirts – comes from Brooks Brothers.  To be continued in Part 3…

Around the world that name defines classic American style. And with nearly 200 years of Ivy League, East Coast establishment history under its belt, Brooks can lay claim to the rare title of being an authentic American legend.

To many, Brooks Brothers conjures up images of a privileged, ivy covered and idyllic life. We imagine summer lawn parties and elegant gents sporting blue blazers and white duck trousers, perhaps comparing country estates over a cool gin and tonic. Maybe it’s Brooks’ almost iconic take on city life; heading off to the Yale Club for lunch in a pinstriped suit and cracked cordovan lace-ups, thick leather dispatch case and a cashmere overcoat to ward off the wintery chill.

Off The Cuff has been working on an extensive and ever-evolving profile of Brooks Brothers for quite some time.  The first installment of this labor of love now sits before you.

It’s a big piece, in fact it’s the longest in OTC’s six-year history.  Therefore, we decided to pare it down to about six bite-sized installments that will run throughout the month of February.

As a side note, Brooks Brothers was not directly involved in this project, although some of their corporate folks did give it a friendly nod after perusing a near-final draft.

Whatever glamorous, Ivy League slice of life this storied name brings to mind, after generations of style, a few stumbles and a new owner, Brooks Brothers is still very much a beloved brand to millions of devoted customers. And more than that, it has now reinvented itself as a modern Brooks Brothers that, with a wink in its eye, has married its core American aesthetic with a little European flair.

In addition to breathing new life into it’s iconic style, Brooks has also hit the social media circuit. It’s recently launched Facebook page and @BrooksBrothers Twitter handle are quickly garnering followers and building a reputation for steady, interesting content.

Brooks Brothers appears to appreciate the important fact that an evolving core of influential devotees, often younger converts, are already deep into social media. They run blogs (like OTC) and tweet, Facebook, text and You Tube their thoughts and opinions on brands like Brooks and on Ivy League style in general. In fact, Jason Nickel, the man behind the Brooks’ social media face, tweeted this lovely picture of a snowy 346 Madison Avenue only this morning.

For an old brand, it’s a whole new world – all over again.

So, what began as a small family business in New York City has grown into a global institution considered by many to be the very backbone of what defines American male fashion. Without hyperbole, we can state that virtually every notable element of classic Ivy League style was created by or introduced through Brooks Brothers.

Wardrobe staples like the two-button natural shoulder suit, the button-down polo collar oxford, madras, seersucker, the polo coat and repp tie all sprung to stylistic prominence because of Brooks. And behind the mahogany and leather façade is a remarkable story of determination and vision, channeled creativity and the sheer ability to survive in the cutthroat world of high-end retail.

Brooks Brothers is also one of those rare companies to have transcended its own history. While it is a long-lived haberdashery, celebrated as a maker and merchant of classic American style, it is also a cultural brand above and beyond the store itself; one that denotes taste, timeless fashion, classicism and heritage.

IN THE BEGINNING

The small shop that would become Brooks Brothers was officially born on April 7, 1818, when Henry Sands Brooks opened H. & D.H. Brooks & Co. at the corner of Catherine and Cherry Streets in New York City. The location was questionable and the firm’s prospects uncertain to say the least.

At the time, this part lower Manhattan, now sandwiched between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges, was known more for roving livestock than sophisticated town gentlemen in search of a haberdasher. But Henry would not be deterred; he had a clear vision of what he wanted to accomplish. Against all odds, his guiding principle, “to make and deal only in merchandise of the finest quality; to sell it at a fair profit and to deal with people who seek and appreciate such merchandise,” would indeed drive the company’s philosophy for generations to come.

To be continued in Part 2…

This heady topic is one that we debate often here at OTC.  And as Capitol Hill here in Washington, D.C., prepares for an ideological and partisan handover, that word is again popping up. “Elite.”

Grab a brandy and settle into your distressed leather club chair, this is a long one.  Enjoy and of course, feel free to discuss. And please don’t despair; we’ll shortly be diving into such weighty subjects as the history of Brooks Brothers and OTC’s favorite grooming products.

While the stunningly elegant halls of Congress are a mere five-minute stroll away, OTC is not a political site.  Indeed, classic taste reflected in modern times favors no party or ideology.  Frankly, if you are able to hold a reasoned debate over any mildly complex or potentially volatile issue (and order a Hendricks & tonic without losing your train of thought), you’re halfway to having great personal style anyway.

That said, the theoretically pejorative term “elitist” is starting to get tossed around again, and since we all clearly fit that description, it’s worth a look.  Wait, you don’t think you’re one of them?  You aren’t an elitist?  Really…

Are you jazzed by dead stock selvage denim straight from the warehouse in Tokyo?  Are you all about working surgeon’s cuffs and double vents?  Do you know what the heck a surgeon’s cuff is?  Do you carry a Filson briefcase to highlight your “authentic American workwear” aesthetic?  Do you tweet about vintage Rolex auctions or dig ACL’s co-branding project with J.Crew (do you automatically know what ACL stands for)? Do you have or want anything custom made? Do you have a favorite brand of khakis? Do you read Monocle?

Like I said…

America has always celebrated the underdog – it is part of our national psyche. We appreciate hard work, determination and sacrifice. We relish our ability to overcome the randomness of one’s initial station in life and make of it what we wish. That previous list of elitist pastimes and obsessions holds no interest to real folks. Jeans? You should have one pair and not give a hoot who made them.  And if cost more than $25.00, well, your priorities are mixed up.

We loudly tout the honesty and satisfaction of a tough fight to the top of the heap over the soft gifts of heredity and privilege; that is of course until we are the beneficiaries of such heredity and privilege. Then, maybe, it’s not such a bad thing. Perspective…….you know.

As a culture we admire the iconic all-American blue collar worker who earns an honest living and whose common sense usually works better then the highbrow babble of out-of-touch politicians and Ivy League “thought leaders.” We temper the idealized image of middle-America with an appreciation for the fruits of hard work: financial success and advancement, education and intellectual growth.

We tell our kids to value learning and to reach for the stars, to work towards a better life while not forgetting where they come from. And always we hear the same mantra repeated across all socioeconomic classes: I want my kids to have it better than I did.

How is it then, that being smart, well educated, worldly and cultured is a bad thing?  Striving to achieve great success though hard work and dedication is a positive trait, but actually achieving it seems to be negative. Appreciating different cultures, expanding one’s horizons and enjoying the finer things in life are portrayed as an abandonment of “real” America.

This being Washington, President Barack Obama tends to be the poster child for the classic Ivy League, white wine sipping, arugula eating, overly intellectual elitist. The subtext is clear – if one is overtly smart or refined, worldly or intellectual, it would appear that he is an “elitist.” The tone often accompanying this pronouncement reminds me of when people were slapped with labels like “commie” or “pinko.” It is meant as an insult; a sort of cultural betrayal.

The president did graduate from Columbia University and Harvard Law School, where he was also president of the Harvard Law Review; three things, by the way, I would be quite proud to to announce whenever possible had I achieved any of them. He is handsome and photogenic, dresses well, can give one heck of a speech (at least on the campaign trail) and is clearly an intellectual sort of guy, occasionally to his detriment.

And yet all of that hard work and sacrifice, all of that dedication is often chalked up to elitism in the most pejorative use of the word. Has he not done what we counsel children every day to do? Mr. Obama was not given any of these successes as gifts – he worked for them. But the question remains: does any of this make him an elitist? And what exactly is an elitist? And even if he (or you or I) is one, why is that bad?

My mother once sent me a newspaper clipping titled, “In praise of social climbing.” She liked the fact that the author put that often-maligned practice into context: social climbing is nothing more than networking with a purpose. It helps you succeed in a career, meet new people, take advantage of opportunities and just get out there in the world.  Today we call such social climbing “LinkedIn.com.”

That is how I view this elitist brouhaha: it’s a PR issue. Take the genuinely impressive accomplishments of one man’s life and slap the label of elitist all over them and he is reduced to the caricature of an effete and out of touch snob. Regardless of your political leaning, that’s just wrong.

To be bipartisan about this, let’s remember that President George W. Bush graduated from Yale and Harvard universities.  And he didn’t go to public high school, he attended Phillips Academy – about as old school prep as humanly possible.  President Bush’s family history is riddled with elitist lawyers, senators, governors and of course presidential parents.  He is a member of Yale’s legendary Skull & Bones secret society and his significant wealth is primarily inherited – fine with us by the way.  Now, that’s elitist!

Encouraging growth, success and intellectual expansion but then bashing its achievement  is indeed a bad thing.  Tossing around polarized labels like “elitist” not only encourage small thinking but also creates a deterrence to the open appreciation of things like art and music, wine, culture and intellectualism.

It sends our kids a mixed message, but it also makes me look bad. I went to college and earned two master’s degrees – what a royal mistake that was. I like good food, design and, obviously, well made clothes. Worse, I ponder such issues as global relations, the long term social impact of our acquisitive culture and when I can afford a nice pair of handmade brogues.

I have written on such arcane topics as merino wool trumping cashmere and the unlikely role of Ralph Lauren as a historian of American social culture. You have willingly debated with me which mechanical watches are the best. Yep – we are all über elitists.

And what of it? This wonderful forum has grown into a global resource for nearly 25,000 people every month. Readers from more countries than I can count stop by to learn something new, leave a comment or find an inspiration for expressing their own personal style.

We question and challenge each other and each, hopefully, walks away with a better perspective on life. We celebrate craftsmanship and individual style because to us, each represents an expression of personal achievement. We are not happy being provincial and holding to a tunnel vision of the world.

So, if all that makes me an elitist, I will proudly wear the label ( I hope you do too).  Happy New Year and look for even more changes for OTC in 2011!

A very important thing to note about Vineyard Vines is that they are opening brink-and-mortar stores while almost any other brand in this market segment is either closing them of postponing any further retail expansion (let alone refurbishment of existing units).

Vineyard Vines’ decision to follow a corporate/institutional branding strategy alongside its retail market is a big reason for their resiliency in the current economic environment. Their corporate/college/sporting division’s business offsets, or at least makes less impactful the capital costs of their retail operation.

This duel market strategy and Shep and Ian’s ability to create a real and passionate culture around their brand are two key reason that they are thriving while other bigger and better financed brands are just trying to stay afloat.

Early on, the company focused on the college market as a key demographic and it has been a successful effort.  Go into any college store anywhere in the country and you are likely to find Vineyard vines branded ties, polos and tote bags.  That well-known repeated logo pattern is a virtual signature telling you from a distance that the Dartmouth green necktie with the never-ending shield repeat is the work of Shep and Ian.

Hitting The Books
In the same spirit of Jimmy Buffet, Vineyard Vines has college tours that bring the brand’s lifestyle directly to college students on their campuses. Complete with beach parties and pink foam whale hats reminiscent of Buffet’s “land sharks” they are marketing the Vineyard Vines brand directly to a core consumer audience.  Some critics point out that in some segments – namely fraternal groups – the brand has become synonymous with boozy college keg parties.  While not really the company’s fault, it’s a persistent form of collateral brand damage none the less.

Unflattering subsets aside, this kind of legwork does indeed develop an enthusiastic and educated customer base predisposed to support the brand and product outside of the college environment.  They see their support of the brand as integral to their own lifestyle.  Tell me of any retail lifestyle brand that wouldn’t want a market full of grade school-to-country club ambassadors.

How is all this managed?  The company has a business unit dedicated to producing customized designs for colleges, their sport teams and fraternal organizations.

Think of it as a collegiate marketing version of vertical integration. If it works right, pretty much anything that campus needs will run through, or at least by, their Vineyard Vines rep. To keep these collegiate efforts coordinated and effective, Vineyard Vines has dedicated brand managers who focus solely on the university market; working with student leaders, administrators and sports teams.

A key goal of course is that as these students grow up and head off to their own careers, a new supply of Vineyard Vines diehards are ready to open their wallets.  They’ll graduate to corporate casual, weekend and country club lives and bring Vineyard Vines along for the ride.  The thing that makes this philosophy tangible is that unlike other aspirational brands – the ones that let you believe that buy wearing their shirt or shoes you too will live in a countryside estate – the Vineyard Vines “lifestyle” is approachable and believable.

The Vineyard Vines world is populated by people you know doing things to which we can all relate: having weddings and graduations, going to parties and just hanging out with friends.  That life is not only easy to aspire to, it’s tangible and easily made real though you and your best friends all sporting the same Vineyard Vines tie and khakis in that Christmas party picture.  Now that’s aspirational branding.

Wearing the Whale
The brand also fits nicely into the preppy/New England Americana trend that has been evolving for the past few years.  In fact, rather than losing steam the look seems to be gaining, moving into new markets and creating its own subsets of “authentic” work wear, classically inspired sportswear and deeper dives into the prep school ethos.

The brand also has an appeal that reaches those who will never set foot on the Vineyard and who will never be part of “that” life and the continuing economic downturn provides a silver lining of sorts because customers are drawn to safe, stable, familiar styles now more than ever.

The company’s classic, some say pedestrian, designs will be in style for years and have a certain malleable nature that engages both New England Gold Casters and Southern preps used to bolder color palates.  Typically, Vineyard Vines pieces are not standouts; rather they are good compliments of other aspects of an outfit.  Supporting, rather than starring roles as it were.

Fall 2010 changed up this historical rule however and it seems that Vineyard Vines’ designers were looking to the highly stylized designs of Ralph Lauren’s Rugby brand for some inspiration.  Mild compared to Rugby’s hyper prep school look, but still a noticeable uptick on the style front.

For some then, the traditional designs of Vineyard Vines shirts, pants and shorts represent stylistic security as well as comfort. As an OTC reader one observed, Vineyard Vines is no Ralph Lauren. While the two share a seaside/preppy/windswept lifestyle brand, Ralph is champagne and oysters, Shep and Ian are Sam Adams and lobster rolls.

The brand has never been about highbrow, but it does appeal to the lifestyle sensibilities of many who want some of the privileged coastal life. Functionality plays role as well. A Vineyard Vines polo, tie, fleece jacket or classic “bare feet” D-ring belt will be in style now, a year from now and probably 10 years from now.

Their tote bags have become, especially for many young women, signature accessories. Other items like blazers, oxfords, shorts and pants all reinforce the Vineyard Vines lifestyle without the overbearing brand association of a Ralph Lauren-like status issue. The message is often that if you are a Vineyard Vines person, you are a fun loving low key brand ambassador who doesn’t need go out of your way to impress others.

Washington, D.C., has also found the brand to be a good fit. Apart from its appealing natural heritage and traditional preppy theme, there is a long running and bipartisan relationship that politicians, particularly from the Northeast, have with Vineyard Vines ties.

During his 2004 presidential run, Senator John Kerry (D-MA) commissioned blue donkey ties for his staff which quickly attained must-have status. Since then, Vineyard Vines ties and belts sporting donkeys, elephants, and American flags regularly dress up blue or red political operatives from Capitol Hill to K Street.

For then-Senator Obama’s 2008 presidential run, Vineyard Vines came up with Capitol Domes and the Obama “O” logo on the tail.  Is there a now a White House version?  Hmmm, I’ll have to check on that.

Even those classic Vineyard Vines totes have been tricked out with blue/donkey or red/elephant trim – my direct observation showing this item to be a perpetual de rigeur accessory for Hill interns and staff alike.

The Business of Fun
From a purely business perspective, Shep and Ian are pretty smart guys. They understand the power of branding and customer association to the Vineyard Vines island lifestyle. They are heavily involved in non-profit, good will and social activities in many of their key markets. The brothers understand the financial and marketing benefits of letting their brand grow organically and in markets that make sense.

One of those markets is corporate branding. The company produces neckties and select garments and accessories for the National Football League and  Major League Baseball.  Where one might typically expect to see repeating sailboats, instead team logos scroll across ties.

In announcing the NFL deal several years ago, SportsBusiness Daily, quoted NFL Vice President of Consumer Products Susan Rothman saying, “we have ties in the market, but they don’t have the quality that Vineyard Vines has.” She went on to say that additional team branded Vineyard Vines products are a logical next step.

In addition to its collegiate and professional sports business ventures, Vineyard Vines provides an extensive corporate branding service that captures lucrative company contracts for employee polos, fleece, etc., and corporate gifts, like tote bags, hats and jackets.

Cashing on on the blog-fueled interest in TRUE PREP, the long-awaited follow-up to The Original Preppy Handbook, the company partnered with author Lisa Birnbach to play host to a national book signing tour and produced a capsule collection of TRUE PREP branded product.  the move garnered attention from multiple quarters and also positioned, or re-positioned if you will, Vineyard Vines as a classic brand equal to L.L. Bean when it comes to its preppy DNA.

Minding The Store
Vineyard Vines has taken a creative approach to its retail outlets as well. The company makes a concerted effort not to cannibalize existing retailers whenever possible. In many cases, they actually partner with their existing retailers in developing a new stand-alone Vineyard Vines store.

This strategy captures local market knowledge and existing customer bases, engenders goodwill with their local partners and consolidates retail channels. It also frees up the corporate team to focus on product development and branding efforts.

The company has won numerous awards, including being named a 2008 All-Star Awards winner by Apparel Magazine for outstanding achievements in the apparel industry. Though it certainly has its detractors, Vineyard Vines continues to be a case study in creating and building a passionate and successful business.

The company also invests in robust back office and supply chain management software.  Controlling costs and inventory across the various retail platforms (web, catalog, company store and retail) is just as vital as customer development.

Vineyard Vines’ website is regularly refreshed, while still retaining it’s clean and brand-appropriate friendly feel.  Though relatively new, the company’s blog, “The Vine” is refreshingly non-corporate feeling.  An active Twitter feed and Facebook fan page round out a robust if relaxed social media platform.

If there is an area of legitimate concern regarding Vineyard Vines’ brand, I think it is the issue of brand dilution. By moving into so many tangential markets – collegiate, fraternal, club, professional sports, corporate – the Murrays do run the risk of muddling what Vineyard Vines really means. If I can pick up a dozen San Francisco 49ers Vineyard Vines ties at Marshall’s for $12.99, exactly how special is that brand? What lifestyle am I really buying?

It’s a legitimate concern and frankly one I suspect has already been mulled over up at the Stamford, Connecticut, headquarters.