Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph Shirts

Ing. Joseph Shirts Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph Shirts

Ignatious Joseph is not a subtle man.  Known sartorially for an elegant and distinctive style of dress, including his ubiquitous handmade red shoes and bowler, he also happens to make some of the finest dress shirts available.

Based on shirts from the 1930s, when the soft collar swept the menswear world, Ignatious Joseph’s eponymous brand is coveted by bankers and traders from London to New York, Milan to Brussels.  His shirt’s signature soft collar, luxurious fabrics, and vibrant color schemes are the brand’s collective calling card.

The philosophy behind his shirts is simple: they are luxury shirts for everyday wear; a modern sense of spirit derived from traditional craftsmanship. Ignatious Joseph shirts are what might be called semi-handmade and there is a reason for that.

Lexus Logo Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph ShirtsWhile he is obsessive about craftsmanship, quality, and construction, Mr. Joseph does not entirely forgo modern technology.  The decision of what to do by hand and what to do by machine must be taken with a view to the product as a whole, and based on the skill and experience of the master shirt maker.  It’s a blend of economics and craft.

Joseph©Godry 823 b2 227x300 Style & Substance: Ign. Joseph ShirtsMr. Joseph’s shirts are made by shirt makers who have refined and improved their specific craft over generations. “In order to produce shirts of the highest quality, and which are still affordable – meaning that there is a realistic margin for manufacturer and retailer – the critical tasks of cutting the shirts and sewing the non-fused collars are performed entirely by hand,” he says. Assembling the torso, a less challenging portion of the garment, is done by sewing machine.

Non-fused collars are the trademark of an Ignatious Joseph shirt.  They are complex creations which require highly skilled artisans.  Most high-end “handmade” shirts do not have hand sewn collars, due primarily to the expense and skill needed for such detailed work.

A pragmatist as well as a craftsman, Mr. Joseph demands that every Ignatious Joseph shirt be of the same high quality each and every time. This is only possible when each step of the shirt’s production is performed using the most appropriate method by experts in their craft.

As he likes to say, “The whole of the product is made not only by hand, but with brains.”

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by LEXUS via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of LEXUS.

 

Style & Substance: Frank Clegg Leatherworks

tan aiden 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksFrank Clegg doesn’t just make leather bags; he crafts heirlooms, one at a time, by hand.

While Frank and his small team of craftsmen design and build elegant leather goods under the Frank Clegg Leatherworks name, the workshop also produces exquisite products for some of the most revered of American luxury labels.

Frank is an artist of the old school; he learned craft over time and understands that when true luxury is involved, less is definitely more.

As with many true craftsmen, he has decades of experience and a repository of thousands of designs, both executed and waiting to be brought to life. Frank is a design and inspiration omnivore – the result of genuine curiosity and New England pragmatism. The more you know, the more you have to offer.

His bags and accessories grace the days of doctors, lawyers, artists, businessmen and globetrotting executives. The relationships he builds over time lead to new designs and the demanding exactitude of his customers keep sharp an attention to quality and detail.

Untitled 2 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksTake for example the simple pen sleeve. In so many bags, a place to put your pen is an afterthought; necessary but uninspired. In Frank’s bags the pen sleeve is part of the interior experience of the bag. It is honored.

The internal components of a Frank Clegg bag are kept to a minimum. Each pocket has a purpose and their scarcity forces the owner to selectively choose the items he carries. Such a bag inspires one to only put in it things of beauty, substance, and purpose. Hence the large, carefully formed pen sleeves. They almost beg for a vintage fountain pen, which Frank collects, or sleek, modern carbon composite roller ball.

Aware of his own depth of knowledge, Frank is also a generous mentor. Young, talented artisans and designers who see him as a font of practical knowledge and priceless experience regularly seek him out. They always leave richer in knowledge and ready to someday pass along the skills they too will develop over time.

Lexus Logo Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksLuxury leather work is a deceivingly complex craft. Even the modern conveniences of machines and computerized design must bow to the master of time, because it still takes time to create such durable beauty.

Frank may practice an age-old craft, but this creative innovator is very much on the pulse of today’s luxury goods market. An examination of his new Aiden Duffle Bag provides proof of this pioneering craftsman’s skill and ability to tweak tradition to meet the needs of a modern customer.

The Aiden is named for Frank’s father and updates his traditional carry-on bag with a modern, clean design. Its compact shape, reminiscent of a traditional doctor’s bag, belies some serious space, accessed through Swiss RiRi zipper that spans the bags’ entire length. The shape is distinctly streamlined and minimal, referencing a mid-century modern aesthetic, allowing the luxuriously soft tumbled leather and stunningly precise stitching to shine through.

Untitled 1 300x210 Style & Substance: Frank Clegg LeatherworksThe bag’s interior is a single open compartment devoid of any lining. Such finishing requires a master’s touch, as every aspect of the bag is open to detailed examination.

Interior seams are prefect and here the quality of the hand-selected leather is truly seen. The delicately arched handles and 1¼-inch shoulder strap bring sturdy functionality and visual balance to the bag.

The Aiden bag, and Frank Clegg himself, are examples of how modern innovation and hand crafted luxury can blend together to create something modern, classic, functional and timelessly stylish.

Disclosure: Compensation was provided by LEXUS via Glam Media. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of LEXUS.

 

Fins Logo Fins For Him: Seriously Comfortable City ShoesThis is a true story. When the package from England containing two pair of Fin’s For Him shoes arrived at OTC’s HQ, there was little time to waste.

After appreciating the beauty and construction of both the Cooper brogues and Bobby slip-ins, it was time to head out for a day of meetings.

On went the Coopers and off went our editor-in-chief.  After literally walking all day, from Metro Center to Georgetown and back, for those of you who know DC, there was not a blister in sight. Never before had a pair of dress shoes so effortlessly slipped into preferred status right out of the box. (See below for a special OTC-only deal on ordering your own pair.)

Fin’s are very special shoes.

Launched in 2008, Fin’s For Him was founded by Londoner Alexandra Finlay. She wanted to create a shoe for her males friends that blended the casualness of a summer loafer with the style and quality of a High Street dress shoe.  She settled on a comfortable suede loafer cum driving moccasin.

What began with that suede loafer, still the brand’s cornerstone, has grown into a collection of footwear and accessories including formal city shoes, casual desert boots and now, accessories. All of her products are designed around the mantra of, “Simple, Classic, Affordable and Fuss-Free.”

Finns Cooper Side 1024x512 Fins For Him: Seriously Comfortable City Shoes

As a result, the Fin’s brand has garnered a global clientele and its relatively accessible price point means that one need not break the bank to give them a try. While keeping things affordable is a priority, quality is still vital – especially when it comes to footwear. The shoes are hand-stitched in a family-run factory in Portugal and all the accessories are made in Italy.

We find Fin’s to be extremely well made and almost unnaturally comfortable, hence the total lack of break-in. Similarly, the Bobby slip-in also required no getting used to and its supple leather almost makes it feel like a house slipper. Make sure to order down one size on the slip-ins.

Finns Bobby Slip Side 1024x512 Fins For Him: Seriously Comfortable City Shoes

While we have not had a chance to test run their casual footwear, these city shoes are outstanding and uniquely English in form. The trim double soles are complimented by a slightly larger (by American standards) toe box. This allows the shoe to provide visual heft and balance to a suit while not appearing clunky or overly casual. “Elegant” is the word which often comes to mind.

While the Fin’s brand has gained popularity in the United States, the cost of getting them here can still be a bit steep (though, in our opinion completely worth it).

To encourage OTC’s readers to give Fin’s For Him a try, Alexandra is offering a 15% discount – not including shipping – on all orders. Just use the code “OTC15″ at checkout.

OTC is happy to recommend Fin’s dress shoes.  They are a perfect start to building up your New Year’s wardrobe!

 

Taking Proper Suit for a Spin

OTC PS Street2 300x199 Taking Proper Suit for a SpinAs we continue to work with Proper Suit on the official OTC suit, our Editor-in-Chief Chris Hogan took the recently delivered set of duds for a spin around town.

This is a quick teaser for the full review which will be coming next month.  What we endeavor to accomplish here is explain what to expect from Proper Suit once you take the plunge.

First off, OTC’s suit both met and exceeded our expectations.  The initial review of key components, including fit, construction, fabric, overall quality and attention to detail impressed us on every count.  (By the way, that wrinkly arm in the picture fits wonderfully – just needs some steam.)

It’s important to remember when choosing to go with a brand like Proper Suit, you are opting to order custom tailored clothing with certain constraints.  Among online clothiers, Proper Suit is unique in that Richard and McGregor will personally take your measurements prior to your placing a first order.  It’s extensive, thorough and designed to ensure that your fit is as accurate as possible.  It is not, however, the same as having a custom suit made for you by a tailor who will update your measurements several times throughout the process.  That is an altogether different, and more expensive option.

Making a custom suit is an art, not a science – don’t confuse the two.  Understand the process and set realistic, firm expectations.

Those initial measurements will form the basis for your Proper Suit suit pattern.  It’s a point in time translated to a tailor who will in turn translate them into a suit of clothing.  So, when you open that box for the first time, this should be your expectation:  it should fit very well, but will likely need some tweaking.

That’s exactly the case with the OTC suit; it fit almost perfectly but will need to be let out a touch on the sides.  Other than that, it’s spot on and that’s pretty darn impressive.  And this gets us to the issue of realistic expectations.  It absolutely met ours.  We were not expecting a perfect suit from a single fitting several weeks prior.  We were expecting a suit that was almost perfect and received just that.

The cost for the tailoring adjustments will be reflected on our next order as a credit and we will indeed be placing a next order.  Once those adjustments are made to the Proper Suit pattern, we should have something that does indeed fit perfectly, right out of the box.

Stay tuned for the full review which will go into the details, look and what goes into a Proper Suit and show you the finished product.

 

2011 Holiday Wish List

This year, the OTC Holiday Wish List has a great mix of interesting items, price points and functionality.  Some of these brands may be familiar to you, while others may be something new.  And that’s what we try and do at OTC – remind our readers of why certain brands are indeed great, and introduce new or smaller companies who deserve some increased attention.

In the coming weeks, you will be learning more about a few of the outstanding brands listed below, such as Lotuff Leather.  We are in fact field testing a leather lock briefcase right now; safe to say they are not getting it back after the review!  Recently, we had the chance to speak with the superlative Ira Neimark, former CEO of Bergdorff Goodman, and the man who’s vision created one of the world’s legendary stores.  His new book, The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman, should be required reading for anyone seeking to understand what it truly means to be an exceptional retailer or influencer of fashion.  Be on the lookout for our review.

Explore, enjoy and Happy Holidays!

1

1

Classic White Oxford Button Down
Lumina Clothing Company
Raleigh, North Carolina

$128.00
White Lumina Oxford 2011 Holiday Wish List

 

 

Needlpoint Ball Cap
HARDING-LANE
Dedham, Massachusetts

$30.00

HL Ball Cap 2011 Holiday Wish List

1

1

1

1

A Man’s Watch: the Polar Surveyor Chronograph
Kobold Watch Company
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

$8,850.00

Kobold Polar Surveyor Chrono 2011 Holiday Wish List

 

 

1

1

Possibly the Best Jeans You Can Buy
Raleigh Denim Workshop
Raleigh, North Carolina
Around $285.00

DSC 0396 1024x685 2011 Holiday Wish List

1

1

1

1

The Blue Crab Belt
Knot Belt & Clothing Co.
Boston, Massachusetts
$38.00

Knot Blue Crab Belt 2011 Holiday Wish List

1

1

1

1

Lessons From a Master Retailer
The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman
by Ira Neimark
Fairfield, Connecticut

$32.501The Rise of Fashion 3D BOOK COVER 852x1024 2011 Holiday Wish List

1

1

1

Colored Dress Shoe Laces
hook + ALBERT
New York, New York

From $14.00

H+A Laces Pack1 1024x681 2011 Holiday Wish List1

1

1

1

Leather Lock Briefcase
Lotuff Leather
Ware, Massachusetts

$950.00

LC Leather Lock Briefcase 2011 Holiday Wish List1

1

1

1

Purple Pinedot Tie
Drakes London
London, United Kingdom

£95.00

Drakes Purple Pin Dot 2011 Holiday Wish List1

1

1

1

CD-15 Notebooks
Apica
Japan

Set of three, $10.80

Apica Notebooks 2011 Holiday Wish List1

1

1

1

The Arte Italiana Milord Fountain Pen
OMAS
Bologna, Italy

$425.00

Omas Arte italiana resin fountain pen1 2011 Holiday Wish List

1

1

1