After appreciating the beauty and construction of both the Cooper brogues and Bobby slip-ins, it was time to head out for a day of meetings.

On went the Coopers and off went our editor-in-chief.  After literally walking all day, from Metro Center to Georgetown and back, for those of you who know DC, there was not a blister in sight. Never before had a pair of dress shoes so effortlessly slipped into preferred status right out of the box. (See below for a special OTC-only deal on ordering your own pair.)

Fin’s are very special shoes.

Launched in 2008, Fin’s For Him was founded by Londoner Alexandra Finlay. She wanted to create a shoe for her males friends that blended the casualness of a summer loafer with the style and quality of a High Street dress shoe.  She settled on a comfortable suede loafer cum driving moccasin.

What began with that suede loafer, still the brand’s cornerstone, has grown into a collection of footwear and accessories including formal city shoes, casual desert boots and now, accessories. All of her products are designed around the mantra of, “Simple, Classic, Affordable and Fuss-Free.”

As a result, the Fin’s brand has garnered a global clientele and its relatively accessible price point means that one need not break the bank to give them a try. While keeping things affordable is a priority, quality is still vital – especially when it comes to footwear. The shoes are hand-stitched in a family-run factory in Portugal and all the accessories are made in Italy.

We find Fin’s to be extremely well made and almost unnaturally comfortable, hence the total lack of break-in. Similarly, the Bobby slip-in also required no getting used to and its supple leather almost makes it feel like a house slipper. Make sure to order down one size on the slip-ins.

While we have not had a chance to test run their casual footwear, these city shoes are outstanding and uniquely English in form. The trim double soles are complimented by a slightly larger (by American standards) toe box. This allows the shoe to provide visual heft and balance to a suit while not appearing clunky or overly casual. “Elegant” is the word which often comes to mind.

While the Fin’s brand has gained popularity in the United States, the cost of getting them here can still be a bit steep (though, in our opinion completely worth it).

To encourage OTC’s readers to give Fin’s For Him a try, Alexandra is offering a 15% discount – not including shipping – on all orders. Just use the code “OTC15″ at checkout.

OTC is happy to recommend Fin’s dress shoes.  They are a perfect start to building up your New Year’s wardrobe!

This is a quick teaser for the full review which will be coming next month.  What we endeavor to accomplish here is explain what to expect from Proper Suit once you take the plunge.

First off, OTC’s suit both met and exceeded our expectations.  The initial review of key components, including fit, construction, fabric, overall quality and attention to detail impressed us on every count.  (By the way, that wrinkly arm in the picture fits wonderfully – just needs some steam.)

It’s important to remember when choosing to go with a brand like Proper Suit, you are opting to order custom tailored clothing with certain constraints.  Among online clothiers, Proper Suit is unique in that Richard and McGregor will personally take your measurements prior to your placing a first order.  It’s extensive, thorough and designed to ensure that your fit is as accurate as possible.  It is not, however, the same as having a custom suit made for you by a tailor who will update your measurements several times throughout the process.  That is an altogether different, and more expensive option.

Making a custom suit is an art, not a science – don’t confuse the two.  Understand the process and set realistic, firm expectations.

Those initial measurements will form the basis for your Proper Suit suit pattern.  It’s a point in time translated to a tailor who will in turn translate them into a suit of clothing.  So, when you open that box for the first time, this should be your expectation:  it should fit very well, but will likely need some tweaking.

That’s exactly the case with the OTC suit; it fit almost perfectly but will need to be let out a touch on the sides.  Other than that, it’s spot on and that’s pretty darn impressive.  And this gets us to the issue of realistic expectations.  It absolutely met ours.  We were not expecting a perfect suit from a single fitting several weeks prior.  We were expecting a suit that was almost perfect and received just that.

The cost for the tailoring adjustments will be reflected on our next order as a credit and we will indeed be placing a next order.  Once those adjustments are made to the Proper Suit pattern, we should have something that does indeed fit perfectly, right out of the box.

Stay tuned for the full review which will go into the details, look and what goes into a Proper Suit and show you the finished product.

In the coming weeks, you will be learning more about a few of the outstanding brands listed below, such as Lotuff Leather.  We are in fact field testing a leather lock briefcase right now; safe to say they are not getting it back after the review!  Recently, we had the chance to speak with the superlative Ira Neimark, former CEO of Bergdorff Goodman, and the man who’s vision created one of the world’s legendary stores.  His new book, The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman, should be required reading for anyone seeking to understand what it truly means to be an exceptional retailer or influencer of fashion.  Be on the lookout for our review.

Explore, enjoy and Happy Holidays!

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Classic White Oxford Button Down
Lumina Clothing Company
Raleigh, North Carolina

$128.00

Needlpoint Ball Cap
HARDING-LANE
Dedham, Massachusetts

$30.00

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A Man’s Watch: the Polar Surveyor Chronograph
Kobold Watch Company
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

$8,850.00

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Possibly the Best Jeans You Can Buy
Raleigh Denim Workshop
Raleigh, North Carolina
Around $285.00

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The Blue Crab Belt
Knot Belt & Clothing Co.
Boston, Massachusetts
$38.00

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Lessons From a Master Retailer
The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman
by Ira Neimark
Fairfield, Connecticut

$32.501

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Colored Dress Shoe Laces
hook + ALBERT
New York, New York

From $14.00

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Leather Lock Briefcase
Lotuff Leather
Ware, Massachusetts

$950.00

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Purple Pinedot Tie
Drakes London
London, United Kingdom

£95.00

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CD-15 Notebooks
Apica
Japan

Set of three, $10.80

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The Arte Italiana Milord Fountain Pen
OMAS
Bologna, Italy

$425.00

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In many ways, this is a natural extension of the resurgent interest in menswear, a focus on quality and the unique roles history and social provenance play in gentlemanliness.  Another factor is younger men of style seeking to insert a little distinctive expression into clothing that must still conform, more or less, to the realities of workday life.

Enter hook + ALBERT.  This new accessories brand is one of the first to really focus its wares on the desire of stylish men to find ways of injecting life and personality into their wardrobes without necessarily going all peacock.  What began with a mission to create, colorful yet stylish dress socks with the comfort and support of athletic socks, expanded to include a range of clever and colorful accessories.

The socks are H&A’s core product line, and they are wonderful.  Vibrant colors and fun, work-friendly patterns can now pop out from beneath suit trousers and khakis alike.   Company founders Adam and Cory view socks as “ankle accessories” and opted to reinterpret, and indeed reconstruct, the dress sock itself.  Click here to learn about the welcome technical features of hook + ALBERT socks, like cushioning and arch support.

And, while they first sought to bring change to the luxury sock market, they also felt it was important to offer their customers those hard to find little accessories that can truly make ones’ look unique.

Another big hit has been their line of colored dress shoelaces.  Such a simple idea, but such a huge impact on personal style; we love them.  Colored shoe laces can dress up any shoe, from a beat up brogue to a boardroom-ready cap toe.  By going bright or subtle you can give your shoes, and your overall look, a punch of color or simply a hint of something unique.  Laces come in a standard 30-inch length and fit dress shoes and low boots.

We are especially fond of the stylish incongruity a pair of red or orange laces create when worn with heavy-soled wingtips.  It gives the outfit an unexpected personal twist while not taking away from one’s overall look.

Lapels can be a tricky thing for a modern gent.  Once, a man was sartorially naked without something in his lapel hole – after all, it’s there for a reason.  These days it is hard to put one’s lapel to work without looking overly affected; a pocket watch chain secured with granddad’s favorite fob is just too vintage for most men.  Flowers, though Springy and sophisticated, inevitably lead to being asked if one is heading off to a wedding.  Still, there is something undeniably swanky, and distinctly gentlemanly about displaying a tasteful token on one’s lapel.

Hook & ALBERT’s solution was to create a new take on the boutonniere.  Handmade of soft mercerized cotton, each unique crochet flower secures to the jacket lapel via a shell button on the back.  We are partial to the Storm Blue, but as with their shoe laces, the color chosen – bold or subtle – can project the wearer’s mood, personality and sense of style.

The brand’s simple hopsack neckties are of a contemporary, narrow cut and well-finished.  The tie’s colorful contrast backing located where it lays against the shirt collar (in our case, vibrant red for a navy blue tie), has both practical and aesthetic functions.  The detail also gives it a fun tweak known only to the wearer.  The choice of hopsack also gives the tie a slightly informal, vintage air that is well suited for casual dress, letting it take on the role of a stylish accessory.

Lastly, you may be wondering about the name, “hook + ALBERT.”  So did we.  It turns out the name derives from that most treasured of gentlemanly possessions, the pocket watch.

Prince Albert, husband to Queen Victoria, liked to wear his pocket watch on a simple chain secured to his vest through a button hole.  The excess length of the chain would drape across his vest in a stylish swag.  As average gentlemen followed this royal fashion cue, it became known as an “Albert” chain.  A single Albert chain has at one end a vest fastener, often a t-bar or decorative button, and at the other a small “hooked” clasp securing the Albert to the pocket watch.  Want to see what a single Albert looks like?  Head over to OTC’s Facebook page – we found a great example.

OTC is happy to recommend the creative and well-made accessories of hook + ALBERT.

Steeplechase is a bruising luxury. As a brand, Turf Legends has wonderfully captured this spirit of the sport, and of the men who have literally risked their lives in such a spirited and enviable fashion. As a lifestyle concept, steeplechase fits perfectly with the core elements of classic British country style. It speaks of landed elegance combined with the earthy practicality of a life dedicated to the turf and cherished animals.

Where Ralph Lauren might create an elegantly fictitious history to lend style and implied meaning to a shirt, Turf Legends focuses on the real thing. Their range of beefy rugbys and soft polos are based on the real silks worn by real riders from the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s. A modern concession was made for Desert Orchid, the beloved winner of the Cheltenham Gold Cup in 1989.

OTC had the chance to test out a few shirts at length over the past few months (this review had to wait until cooler weather made the rugby season-appropriate – we are sticklers) and they have become some of our favorites. Well-made and well designed, they capture the spirit and iconography of horse racing while not tipping over into the realm of kitsch.

Even the big Turf Legends “TL” logo of our Navy Sash Polo seems natural and appropriate. While clearly the brand’s logo, it is also a badge of sorts, conveying the authenticity of the shirt’s roots and purpose. And each one of their shirts has roots, celebrating the colors of such steeds as Arkle, Red Rum and Golden Miller.

As an added nod to the company’s genuine love of this sport, the brand’s historical ambassador is the legendary horseman, Dick Rees. Rees was one of the great jockeys of the 1920s and ‘30s, known for his sartorial elegance and style both in and out of the saddle. He was also the winner of the inaugural Gold Cup in 1924.

To our minds, the shirts themselves are worth every penny, or in this case, pound. They are sturdy yet comfortable and chock full of interesting details such as logoed lining tape, Union Jack or Irish Tricolour flag depending on the horse, Dick Rees’ signature and the occasional locker loop. Some features are truly unique, like the Turf Legends ‘brand label’ that mimics an old style bookies ticket.

Each shirt also comes with a small information booklet which includes a brief summary of the horse’s career and describes why the horse is included in the Turf Legends collection – a really cool and meaningful feature. At £62.50 for a rugby shirt, less for a polo or tee, they are not inexpensive. However, these shirts are built to last and age with real style. Also, wearing a Turf Legends polo, rugby or tee has the added benefit of letting you stand out in from the ‘pretend authentic heritage’ crowd.

The company does not distribute in the United States, so orders can be placed through Turf Legends’ website. If you happen to be visiting Great Britain, you can find a local stockiest here. Note that along with the address and store name, you can also find a link to the nearest race course.

The 2011 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year and head of design at Gant by Michael Bastian, reinterpreted five of Randolph Engineering’s classic frames.  OTC favorites include the gold-tone Sportsman and  Signature Aviator II in chrome with mirrored lenses.

The great thing about these classic, timeless and unabashedly masculine sunglasses is that they get the job done while pretty much never go out of style.  However, don’t wait too long because the MB+RE collaboration is around for limited time and only runs through the end of 2011.

You can order yourself a pair here, or better yet, how about winning a pair for free!

Randolph Engineering and OTC are going to give away pair of RE+MB sunglasses to one lucky OTC reader.  Learn more by checking out the contest on our Facebook page.

We’ve spent the past few weeks putting the Kobe messenger and Jackson briefcase through their paces and in both cases we have been really impressed.  As a work, commuting or general purpose bag, each combines great functionality, outstanding craftsmanship and clever design.

** In fact, we liked them so much that OTC is partnering with knomo to giveaway a brand new Kobe messenger bag.  All you have to do is like us on the OTC Facebook page and you are entered to win.  But hurry up because we’re going to pick a winner on Friday, October 28! **

Both the Jackson and Kobe are part of the Brompton Collection and are new for Fall 2011.  The great thing about these two bags is that they each blend naturally with an updated classic sense of style.

The Jackson briefcase is formal enough for regular business use but its clean and contemporary look keeps it from being too “briefcasy,” as one friend observed.  It feels great in your hand and, unlike many other “contemporary-classic” styled bags, the quality of its materials and construction is evident.

In the same way, the Kobe messenger bag, especially in the tan finish which we tested, is a great choice for a day bag that has a solid, elegantly casual presence.  Both bags retail for $295.00, a very fair price for what you get.

Jackson
The Jackson is named after the American city of Jackson, Mississippi.  The full grain leather briefcase has a angular profile but the leather is remarkably dense and soft.

The laptop section within the main body of the bag has quilted padding and can hold a 15-inch laptop.  Additional internal zip pockets and elastic pouches are covered by the leather flap, secured by two mock-buckles.

Under the front flap are two smaller external pockets.  One is open with card slots and pen holders while the other is a handy zipped pouch.  An external rear newspaper pocket has a hidden magnetic closure.  There is even a zip-through sleeve allowing the bag to be slipped onto your roller bag.

Kobe
The Kobe, named for the sixth largest city in Japan, blends the same soft, sturdy leather with coordinating rPET material – made from recycled bottles – and brushed nickel hardware.  While normally not too hot on hybrid material bags (they never seem to look quite right: is it for the gym or the office?), we are definitely a fan of this one.

The internal layout of the Kobe is nearly identical to the Jackson briefcase except for the scooped cutout of the bag’s front wall which allows for easier access while being worn.

It’s also slightly smaller than the Jackson while still fitting a 15-inch laptop in its quilted sleeve.  Hidden magnetic tabs fasten the front flap and the adjustable wide shoulder strap is very comfortable.  The Kobe also has a handy full-length external newspaper pocket with a zip-though roller bag sleeve.

Brands that breathe new life or at least a new perspective into the classics.  Salmon Cove does just that.

The company was started by two guys not from Chatham or The Hamptons, but in fact the Midwest – Chicago.  They wanted to take some classic American staples – the button down, the polo – and give them a modern and fresh perspective.  The brand’s motto, “swim against the current,” is embodied in their approach to reinterpreting the classics.  Nothing crazy, nothing radical; but just enough updating give them a fresh take.

After testing out their polo and button down, I am  a convert.  Slim but not skinny, traditional but not boxy – these shirts are fresh and comfortable.  In fact, every time I wear my Geneva button down, someone – male and female -  invariably tells me how much they love the shirt.  Seriously, every time.

I had a chance to interview the founding team of Owen and Charlie.  Below is our Q&A.

Q: What makes Salmon Cove different when it comes to classically inspired casual wear – compared to brands like LL Bean, J. Crew or other American lifestyle-inspired brands?

A: Our biggest difference on the men’s side is the cut. Other brands like Lacoste tend to have a shorter boxier cut. Both our wovens and our polos have a slimmer cut, but a big addition is the length.

Product testing on Race Point Beach, Cape Cod.

Our polos won’t stop at your belt line, but are long enough to be worn tucked-in or out. On the women’s side our major difference is our signature piece – the original cove collar. It’s an abbreviated collar with a contrasting collar lining.

It’s a 97% cotton 3% spandex and after lots of trial and research we feel we’ve created the ideal women’s cut.

Q: How did the brand come to be? Why and why now?

A: The idea for Salmon Cove was to create a distinctive, confidence-inspiring clothing brand that would stand the test of time. We both recently left our jobs in the financial world to launch an apparel line for men and women looking for sharp and timeless designs suited for both work and play.

Q: Where do you want to take the brand from here?

A: Currently, we are focusing on our e-commerce store and building our presence in Chicago and the Midwest, specifically in key country clubs and pro shops. As that solid home base continues to grow, we will expand into other markets across the country.

Q: What’s coming down the road for the Fall season?

A: For men, we are working on high performance jackets and sweaters.  For women, we are working on cable knit sweaters and long sleeve polos.

Will commented on a post about Jack Bauer’s bag, from the television show “24,” stating that his bag was tougher than Jack’s. After getting to know more about Will and his company, ETWAS, German for “something,” we had little reason to doubt.

So, it was with satisfaction that we recently saw Will and his bags profiled in Issue 2 if the outstanding new menswear and lifestyle magazine, Port.  It’s a wonderful examination of this prolific and highly principled guy, focusing on Will’s absolute commitment to long-term style and minimal impact.

Some brands talk about civic and social good, ETWAS smacks you across the face with it.  More than that, Will backs it up all the way, as you will see below.  And, by the way, these clean, classic, modern bags are outstanding.

So, with ETWAS’ belated but growing appreciation among the style/craftsman/heritage cognoscenti, OTC is happy to remind everyone that we knew all this way back when.

Will is a graphics design graduate whose dad taught him how to make small leather goods while growing up in western Pennsylvania. In fact, the tannery near his childhood home is where Will now gets the exceptionally fine and thick hides for his ETWAS bags.

A pragmatic guy, Will designed his original bag to simply fit a need at hand. He wanted a bike bag that served the practical purpose of carrying stuff while reflecting his aesthetic and environmental concerns.

Will tells OTC, “I wanted to create my ideal bag, not something was going to be dated in a few years.” The resulting prototype was simple, plain, sturdy and functionally stylish. It’s reminiscent of a classic dispatch case but also embodies distinct elements of a messenger bag.

Two narrow but sturdy straps secure a single, giant compartment. On either end of the bag, D-rings provide additional functionality. The solid brass hardware is sturdy but simple, almost discreet. On the front of the bag, those two straps can also be used to store a small notebook or folded newspaper.

The bag’s body consists of three pieces: the center wrap that creates the front, back, bottom and top flap; and the two side panels. This clean, almost minimalist design creates the illusion of compactness, but don’t be fooled. It’s actually a big bag. The overall message this bag sends is one of near-familiarity. You think you recognize it, but quickly realize that, no, it’s something different.

What’s also distinctive is its inherent imperfection. Since it’s entirely handmade – no machines whatsoever – there is a rustic roughness to the bag’s finishing. The edges are raw, except on the darker stained versions.  On the leather’s unfinished underside, you may very well spot template markings from when the maker went a bit off course.

So, each bag bears the nuances and hallmarks of the person who made it. My own bag’s minimal idiosyncrasies don’t bother me at all. Quite the opposite; I often wonder about the craftsman who made it. Because of the personal nature of their construction, each bag takes about five hours to make; the connection between maker and owner is almost tangible.

The real star of this bag is the outstanding leather that Will sources. Thick and stiff, it takes time to wear in and though it will never really soften in the traditional sense, it will conform to the owner’s body and ease over time. It’s just beautiful stuff – from, as it turns out, a tannery close to where he grew up. The regular compliments I receive are evenly split between the bag’s overall look and the leather itself.

When you buy an ETWAS bag, you are investing in the kind of manufacture that is the antithesis of name brand large-scale production. While not inexpensive, with the original version starting at $600.00, Will could easily charge much more based on material and labor costs alone. With ETWAS, you are buying outstanding durability, one of a kind design and a genuine belief in keeping local, staying green and dedication to quality.

Will’s commitment to thoughtful production is evident in the fact that there is no ETWAS factory. Work is primarily done in a Brooklyn co-op facility. But everything needed to make an ETWAS bag can be found in the Design Box, a totally portable workshop that allows each craftsman to set up shop wherever he happens to be.  It’s more of a collective effort than it is a traditional start-up.

The individual leather worker is the brawn that crafts every bag by hand. And by handmade, I mean no machines at all; not even for the Goodyear stitching on saddle-thick leather end panels.

They use a reinforced palm cushion to help drive a giant needle through the hide – no easy task. And true to his green beliefs they don’t even use any artificial lighting. When the sun goes down, they’re done for the day.

There are now three models available, the original Standard #1, a more compact version called the Light Pack and a tool bag-cum-purse.  Will is working to get his bags into more stores in Manhattan and to increase the brand’s online awareness. OTC wishes him luck and is honored to be an ETWAS kind of guy.

To learn more about ETWAS the company and its dedication to low-impact manufacturing, environmental sustainability and craftsmanship, please visit the company’s website.

Today, men are carrying more stuff than ever and we need a place to put everything.  Smart phone, wallet, iPad, pen and handy notebook, keys and about a dozen other things – more than our pockets will ever hold.

We need a bag.  But a good bag is not a one-shot deal.  Just like anything else in life, we need different bags for different needs and different occasions.  I have a great tobacco brown Hudson leather briefcase from Coach that makes for an outstanding office bag.  Perfect for the Metro, it’s often mistaken for a Tod’s bag and looks great with a suit.

When I need to go more casual I grab my Filson briefcase.  If needs turn to a general holdall of a rugged nature, out comes the custom OTC Timbuk2 messenger bag.  These standbys, along with a closet full of other bags, constitute a rotating inventory that says as much about me as my ties or suits or watches.

One classic bag that stands the test of time is the tote.  In fact, totes are enjoying a particular resurgence at the moment, with makers from Gucci to LL Bean seeing increased demand for these workhorses.

While fancy leather versions are a clever twist on a classic form, the true tote bag was meant to be used and abused.  They get the job done and speak of function trumping form.  Their utility is what makes them so universal.

Seaside totes, like the classic-of-classics, LL Bean’s Boat-and-Tote, are the real deal.  It’s been observed that any respectable New England family should have a dozen or so lying around the house.  That said, I also like the very nautical zip-top totes from True Wind.  A much younger company to be sure (by about eight decades or so), but grounded in the same fixation on quality and utility.

OTC has previously written about True Wind and highlighted their rugged yet light sailcloth bags.  Where some opt for vintage recycled sailcloth, True Wind went straight to Hood Sailmakers, the same company that produces sails for world class racing yachts.  We love their bags’ functional in-your-face nauticalness and Made in America standards.

True Wind is offering OTC readers a special back to school, end of summer, call it what you will, special deal. 

You can get 50% off a large or small Regatta Tote if you place an order before September 9, 2011.  Just use the code HALFTOTE at checkout. This is a great deal on a great, stylish, functional and darn sturdy bag – while supplies last.  And yes, they monogram.

Check out the Regatta Tote on True Wind’s site.